Serbs

The problem is, using the 1.8 blacktop flywheel and clutch cover, with a pinto friction plate, type 9 release bearing and a spigot bearing at the end of the crankshaft, the gearbox and the engine would not mate. Without the flywheel+friction plate and clutch cover it does, no problem at all. I've heard of re-drilling the 1.8 flywheel for a pinto clutch, but i'm only using the pressure plate of the pinto(which fits onto the input shaft from the transmission), and the clutch cover from the zetec. What am i doing wrong in this case? Pressure plate not aligned properly? There's still a distance of approximately 2cm between the engine and gearbox. Changing the release bearing to the CCT133 would help in this case? Considering buying it as most of the people recommend doing it.
Thanks

Adder

The Black Count

Hello, I thought it was the flywheel and clutch from a 1.8 silver top zetec normally found in a mk6 Escort that was required, using the ones from a black top could be causing clearance issues inside the bellhousing.

Using a fwd clutch pressure plate means the release bearing has to travel further hence the ct133 or extensions. For the cost of a flywheel and having it re-drilled you would be better of buying one that various company's sell

Serbs

So should I buy the CT133 and the re-drilled flywheel to be able to use the pinto clutch with it?
I have found both online at quite good prices

The Black Count

As I understand it, if you were to buy a flywheel from the likes of Retroford and fit a pinto clutch then the standard release bearing would work just fine

You could buy an Escort flywheel and have it re-drilled or use the fwd clutch and play with the release bearing or even buy a cvh flywheel and use a trigger wheel but I would recommend buying an aftermarket flywheel designed for the job and fit the pinto clutch with standard release bearing almost guaranteed to work and no hassle

Serbs

If i were to buy this one, would this be the last thing to do before installing the engine? And what about the starter motor, cut the sump or there's another option
Flywheel

The Black Count

The Flywheel you have linked is basically what you require although others are available.

As for the rest of the engine conversion we would need to know what car is it being fitted into? and what else has been done

Please also note that after 5 years I have still not managed to fit a rwd zetec although I have made lots of mistakes so know a few of the problems, will help if I can

Serbs

The car is a Westfield, had a 1.6 pinto into it and now the 1.8 zetec is almost ready to go into it, just have to mate it with the gearbox, figure out the clutch and fabricate the engine mounts, currently i have both the pinto and the zetec starters, would they be of use or get the LRS707 new/second hand

The Black Count

Sorry starter motors is one thing I have yet to sort out myself

Remember you also need to fit a spigot bearing

The pinto has a rear bowl sump and the zetec a front one and 2 piece so will need replacing, you will also require a water rail and check pump rotation, then there is the problem of fuel delivery, exhaust and ignition ( sparks and alternator )

The reason I have taken so long is because I tried to do it cheap and found unless you are clever and able to fabricate ( I am not ) then its best to buy the parts designed to work from reputable companies but beware the price escalates fast

Serbs

I've seen someone using a 1.8 Sierra sump and pick up with this engine and he had no fitting problems with the starter motor. would this be a good choice? Fuel, exhaust and ignition are sorted out 80%, but what about the water rail, what does that have to connect to and from?

RalliArttu

You need water rail to move thermostat away from its original position, cause it will no longer fit between bulkhead and engine on RWD- installation. Basically you replace original thermostat housing with flange, and continue from there with pipe closer to radiator where you put thermostat.

EDIT:



One version.

The Black Count

I can only tell you of my own personal experience. Started out by trying to fit the Sierra sump then had an Escort sump converted, finally purchased the alloy one from Retroford which is what I should have done from the start!! again in my experience the Sierra and Escort sumps only fit on a silver top zetec
Same with the water rail, tried to make one, bought a cheap one from eBay and have now got one from Ike engineering. Note you do have a choice of going down either side of the engine which could make it easier to connect with the radiator. The Retroford rail goes down the exhaust side and the one I have goes down the inlet side

Serbs

Thanks for the picture and the info, but what about the starter? How does the sump have to be cut? Or is there an option to be bought so nothing will be "destroyed"?

big_wasa

I have fitted several zetec's to kitcars and am swapping out a 1.8 pinto to 2.0 turbo zetec at the moment.

you don't need an aftermarket water rail unless your head is hard up the bulkhead like in a sierra. Oem works best.

Avoid the 1.8 cvh sump its workable but not worth the effort.

Starter. You have options. The only way the zetec starter can be used is by modifiying the bellhousing. You can use the pinto starter with a pinto style flywheel or a spacer.

the lrs707 is the bolt on solution.
The Sierra 1.8cvh and 2.0 dohc are the two donors. The difference is the position of the solenoid.

Serbs

Currently have the pinto starter(Lucas LRS00168) which will be fitted to the type 9 after cutting the engine sump to make it fit and by using a 14mm spacer, would it work with the 1.8 flywheel? That's what i've found on other forums so far. Also the CCT133 bearing.
Getting an answer ASAP would be awesome as tomorrow the cutting begins :P

big_wasa

Serbs

Then cutting the sump it is. And would it need to be enlarged if it will be used for track days and tuned up for more bhp? Could probably enlarge the bottom to a side, as there is a bit of room to do it. And what material should be used for the spacers, anything specific or just a piece of metal that's not easily compressed will do.

big_wasa

Spacer, what ever is to hand. It needs to be some kind of metal as the starter is earthed through it. So alloy or steel.

You realy will need to add a good litre to the capacity.
More important will be adding baffles for track work.

If your making spacers for starters then have a look at the zetec starter mod. It will make the sump much easier.
Old sierra starters can struggle starting hot zetec's not helped with sitting near a pan of boiling hot oil and the exhaust.

for every thing you want to do there are a dozen different options depending on using your hands or your wallet or something in between.

big_wasa

Again, instead of the longer bearing you can make or buy a longer clutch fork pivot pin that does the same job.

Serbs

The starter is almost brand new, as it was used for the pinto engine, bought just a few months ago. Trying to go the budget route for now. Could i find any pictures with modified sumps online to get an approximate look on how much it has to be enlarged by?

big_wasa

I've done a few. I will see if I can find some photos later.

big_wasa

big_wasa