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Old 23-09-2015, 11:18 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by JamesH
Rod what size are the thermocouples going into each exhaust port?

.25 open tip Stingers.
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Old 23-09-2015, 11:26 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by grcossie
Will you use the same diff ratio as before?

Yes with 235/40/18 fitted that gives 210.9mph @ 8.2k in 5th.
with 225/40/19 fitted that gives 216.6mph @ 8.2k in 5th.


On the road 235/35/17 would give 190.2mph @ 8k that's about as much as you can use under road conditions.
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Old 23-09-2015, 12:44 PM
  #83  
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Be careful as with the heat and vibration you're likely to be putting them under, they can break off, then lunch your turbo. Is it 0.25" where it goes through into the exhaust? 3mm ones break. 6mm won't but give slower response
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Old 23-09-2015, 02:09 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by JamesH
Be careful as with the heat and vibration you're likely to be putting them under, they can break off, then lunch your turbo. Is it 0.25" where it goes through into the exhaust? 3mm ones break. 6mm won't but give slower response

I have taken advice on this from people that know .
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Old 23-09-2015, 05:04 PM
  #85  
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I fit and test them every day
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Old 23-09-2015, 05:22 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by JamesH
I fit and test them every day



If your tests show they destroy Turbos why fit them. Serious question.
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Old 23-09-2015, 05:43 PM
  #87  
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Because you need to know what the temperature is to develop a calibration

They only wreck the turbo if they break and fall off, which is why I suggested 6mm, they don't break
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Old 23-09-2015, 05:50 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by JamesH
Because you need to know what the temperature is to develop a calibration

They only wreck the turbo if they break and fall off, which is why I suggested 6mm, they don't break
They will only be used for mapping and testing in the car as I know they can fail easily but we need the thin ones for the speed of temp change.

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Old 23-09-2015, 05:57 PM
  #89  
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Spot on Mark! That will be fine. I just wanted to point it out in case Rod/you didn't know, as it would be expensive!
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Old 25-09-2015, 09:47 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by JamesH
Spot on Mark! That will be fine. I just wanted to point it out in case Rod/you didn't know, as it would be expensive!

Here what was recommended. Your verdict would be appreciated. I knew it was a test thing only fitting. I had visions of these things snapping as soon as we started up after your comment . These people also suggest only 6mm of probe into the port whats your view on that.


Stinger Pro Series Top Alcohol Probe Single 72 inches, Part# 4025R-72-R-0



This sensor is recommended for the following applications;
  • Pro Stock
  • Top Alcohol Dragster
  • Top Alcohol Funny Car
  • Top Alcohol Drag Boat
  • Pulling Tractor (No Diesel)
  • Drag Bikes
Our Probes Feature:
  • .250" Dia.
  • Wire Length is 72" inches w/ striped leads.
  • Kapton Insulated Stainless Steel Overbraided Wire.
  • Response time 300 milli-seconds All Day Long!
  • Exposed Tip Junction Hyper Response can see a single misfire @ 8000 RPM.
  • Type “K” Calibration Special Limits, Traceable to N.I.S.T. Inconel Outer sheath good to 2200 + F
  • This Probe is compatible with...Race Gasoline, Alcohol, Methanol,E85 or Nitrous Oxide in naturally aspirated, Turbo charged, Blown/Supercharged Engines.
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Old 25-09-2015, 09:55 AM
  #91  
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Forgot to say maybe you can get them cheaper or suggest another make this is from Gas Technologies in the States. Of more interest is a suggestion for a EgT/CANbus amplifier. Looked at Haltech, 2d , KMS, TF Electronics & a few others not a clue whats suitable.
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Old 25-09-2015, 12:11 PM
  #92  
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They look fine Rod. When you fit them, you want the probe tip to be exactly half way into the exhaust port, so bang in the centre. Once fitted with the olive clamped on, you can then bend the rest of the thermocouple to get it away from heat sources. Put some heat proof tape on the wire coming out of the thermocouple too. You don't want it to fail just because it's melted the wire.

If it's a case of a few days test work, you should be fine with 3mm. But if you're happy with response of the 6mm, you can be pretty sure they won't ever break.

When they fail they tend to go open circuit. So will read 1200degC ish so lookout for that.

Best thing you can do is fit them to the manifold, then fit the manifold to the engine. Routing the leads away from heat
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Old 25-09-2015, 01:04 PM
  #93  
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Forgot how long it takes to prep the head ready to put on the engineso this is what's been completed in the last day.
Ring gaps later.

Mark
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Old 25-09-2015, 03:57 PM
  #94  
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Where are you planning to mount the voltage booster and battery?

If it were me I would have another booster just for the ignition coils and injectors. With a constant output of 13-18V you would not need to calibrate battery voltage correction tables for dwell or injector opening/dead times...

Do you have any info regarding the current you expect the fuel pump to draw at full load? I can't see any information about the current output from the voltage booster vs voltage etc.

Good luck!

Rob,
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Old 25-09-2015, 04:50 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Rob_DOHC
Where are you planning to mount the voltage booster and battery?

If it were me I would have another booster just for the ignition coils and injectors. With a constant output of 13-18V you would not need to calibrate battery voltage correction tables for dwell or injector opening/dead times...

Do you have any info regarding the current you expect the fuel pump to draw at full load? I can't see any information about the current output from the voltage booster vs voltage etc.

Good luck!

Rob,
Rod has had a voltage booster on his car for that for about 10years or so.

Mark
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Old 25-09-2015, 04:54 PM
  #96  
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I can see the inlet ports have been knife edged, is this head any different to what my head will be when we do it or are they similar spec 500bhp to 1000bhp?
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Old 25-09-2015, 04:59 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Caddyshack
I can see the inlet ports have been knife edged, is this head any different to what my head will be when we do it or are they similar spec 500bhp to 1000bhp?
This head is diff than before. The head for yours will go to 838hp it's the cams that make the diff.

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Old 25-09-2015, 05:34 PM
  #98  
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Have run this Accuvolt system since 2004 max of 16.25 volts. It supplies Fuel pump & CDI module that feeds the coils. We can run big plug gaps at very high boost without blow out. The FMS runs over 20v if required but can be switched off by the ECU when high volts are not required.

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Old 25-09-2015, 05:34 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Mark Shead
Rod has had a voltage booster on his car for that for about 10years or so.

Mark
Yes, but in what configuration?
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Old 25-09-2015, 05:37 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Rod-Tarry
Have run this Accuvolt system since 2004 max of 16.25 volts. It supplies Fuel pump & CDI module that feeds the coils. We can run big plug gaps at very high boost without blow out. The FMS runs over 20v if required but can be switched off by the ECU when high volts are not required.

Thats cool, I was more wondering about where it was located in the car etc?

Drawing 10A at 20V for example would normally mean a pretty significant voltage drop by the time you were at the pump, unless the booster in in your boot with the battery.

Looking forward to more pics of progress
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Old 25-09-2015, 09:14 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by Rob_DOHC
Thats cool, I was more wondering about where it was located in the car etc?

Drawing 10A at 20V for example would normally mean a pretty significant voltage drop by the time you were at the pump, unless the booster in in your boot with the battery.

Looking forward to more pics of progress

Always had 15+V at the pump. The unit is under the bonnet & been there for 11 years. Everything else has changed & this pic is 640bhp engine many years back.




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Old 25-09-2015, 11:21 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Rod-Tarry
As we add Boost that rises so at 4 bar its at 109psi. This means we can use smaller injectors than a car running 2 bar of Boost making the same Power
Not quite, the map reference to the fpr is to equalise the pressure otherwise the fuel map looks very strange. It's a common problem on R53 mini's with the stock fuel rail when going over 18psi

Originally Posted by PF Ben
Thanks Mark much appreciated - so the map is as "aggressive" in ignition etc as it would have been had you not been using gas? The little I read had me thinking a map with gas would be different to one without. .. thats even better for my thoughts then!
If it's been mapped to the limit of det then you might need to pull back the ignition timing when it's "on gas"

Originally Posted by Mark Shead
We never had any problem with boost on Rods but I did set a t34 car up and the boost would go up when nos was on strangely.
That'll be a waste gate issue more than likely, depending on where the actuator was taking it's pressure reference from. If it was coming off the compressor cover then that's just down to the extra oxygen from the gas

Last edited by SiZT; 25-09-2015 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 28-09-2015, 10:21 AM
  #103  
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JamesH- Ive found a 3mm o/d probe that's made of Inconel the other probes ive looked at don't mention material. From my design days its seems unlikely Inconel will fail through Vibration am I correct on that.


Im also looking at a Kronenburg Management Systems EGT-CAN converter its not the best but perhaps the best compromise. Rang Datron today there 8 channel unit is £2500+ vat that will be a No then . They also do a 4 channel for £1500+ vat it looks like the KMS & quotes a similar spec. who pays those prices. If you have not heard they are shite or a bunch of bandits think my money will go with KMS.

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Old 28-09-2015, 12:05 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Rod-Tarry
JamesH- Ive found a 3mm o/d probe that's made of Inconel the other probes ive looked at don't mention material. From my design days its seems unlikely Inconel will fail through Vibration am I correct on that.


Im also looking at a Kronenburg Management Systems EGT-CAN converter its not the best but perhaps the best compromise. Rang Datron today there 8 channel unit is £2500+ vat that will be a No then . They also do a 4 channel for £1500+ vat it looks like the KMS & quotes a similar spec. who pays those prices. If you have not heard they are shite or a bunch of bandits think my money will go with KMS.
Rod if the probes aren't going to be permanently installed do you need the CAN BUS capability? with out the Can bus accurate K type conditioning circuits become much cheaper.

For my money I would tune with all port probes installed and swap them for a single probe after the exhaust, ignoring the temp offset this would still give you a pretty decent idea before melt down.
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Old 28-09-2015, 02:20 PM
  #105  
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We only use one type Rod so not sure, I'd imagine the majority will be stainless. Another thing worth mentioning is don't do them up too tight, as the olive can crush the thermocouple too much and make a weak point/crack
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Old 28-09-2015, 03:00 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Rob_DOHC
Rod if the probes aren't going to be permanently installed do you need the CAN BUS capability? with out the Can bus accurate K type conditioning circuits become much cheaper.

For my money I would tune with all port probes installed and swap them for a single probe after the exhaust, ignoring the temp offset this would still give you a pretty decent idea before melt down.

This is a classic example of setting off down a path & not thinking .
We have used up 11 of our 16 Analog inputs & so decided to leave them as spare hence use CAN. Did not expect the massive price difference I have found. Ive just checked my Circuit Diagram & we still have those 5 inputs clear so indeed do I need to use the CAN Bus the answer is no .
If I used my brain I would be dangerous just needed a prod in the eye that your post gave me. Will speak to Mark about a single probe.
I can buy an amp for £128 & take a 3 week cruise in the Bahamas. Thanks for stopping my headlong rush to the CAN Bus.
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Old 28-09-2015, 03:02 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by JamesH
We only use one type Rod so not sure, I'd imagine the majority will be stainless. Another thing worth mentioning is don't do them up too tight, as the olive can crush the thermocouple too much and make a weak point/crack

The Inconel ones are more expensive but may be worth it as they are also .3 not .25.
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Old 28-09-2015, 04:25 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Rod-Tarry
This is a classic example of setting off down a path & not thinking .
We have used up 11 of our 16 Analog inputs & so decided to leave them as spare hence use CAN. Did not expect the massive price difference I have found. Ive just checked my Circuit Diagram & we still have those 5 inputs clear so indeed do I need to use the CAN Bus the answer is no .
If I used my brain I would be dangerous just needed a prod in the eye that your post gave me. Will speak to Mark about a single probe.
I can buy an amp for £128 & take a 3 week cruise in the Bahamas. Thanks for stopping my headlong rush to the CAN Bus.
Lol, no worries

If you do end up only using one of the inputs (ie one sensor after the turbo) you will have an extra 4 spare too Just make sure the ecu and EGT amp share a ground so that you don't end up with a ground offset voltage.

Rob,
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Old 28-09-2015, 04:38 PM
  #109  
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If it's just for a day or so to test, you could buy a 4 channel k type reader Rod.

Really quick google brings up things like so:

http://www.gainexpress.com/products/...sd-card-logger

If you started ECU and that reader logging at the same time you could still plot the engine speed etc against exhaust temps, and you still get the live reading to eye ball so you can abort the run if you need to
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Old 28-09-2015, 05:02 PM
  #110  
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If you can get one with CJC that would be good to have
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Old 28-09-2015, 10:49 PM
  #111  
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Yes the cold junction compensation is worth having and should be standard on anything using a decent K type amp IC.

I would probably do as above and have an external unit... but I do agree that logging EGT via the ecu is sooo much easier when mapping than having the ball ache of different graphs in different programs all with different time stamps... I usually use a separate program for displaying logs of knock and fucking hate using more than one program on a single screen (laptop).

Better than all of this is a combustion pressure monitor... but they have their own quirks and demands. But the impact upon tuning ignition and monitoring det/missfire is out of this world.

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Old 29-09-2015, 12:34 PM
  #112  
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Cylinder pressure transducers are crazy expensive, and you would need to machine the head to fit them to a Cossie. And you'd probably need an encoder too so that you could line cylinder pressure up against crank angle!
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Old 29-09-2015, 09:09 PM
  #113  
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Ray Hall (Emtron) has recommended Exhaust Gas Technologies 4 Channel amp. Im also looking at one made by Stack which is more expensive. They all have CJC as far as I can see.
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Old 29-09-2015, 11:30 PM
  #114  
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theres not a lot i can say constructive other than im in awe of the engineering and technical calculations that goes into something that to the outsider is just a car designed to go extremeley quickly in a straight line. of course theres much more to it than that, man vs physics ect. its a hell of a feat to go over 200mph, i cannot wait to see what the latest build is capable of.
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Old 30-09-2015, 06:32 AM
  #115  
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Whichever takes your fancy then Rod. Worth checking the refresh rate/reading frequency so you know how quickly it will update/log, 10Hz etc
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Old 30-09-2015, 04:50 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by JamesH
Cylinder pressure transducers are crazy expensive, and you would need to machine the head to fit them to a Cossie. And you'd probably need an encoder too so that you could line cylinder pressure up against crank angle!
Yes and yes... awesome tho and after having a play with a very old system a modern version is on my wish list. There are alternatives which mean you don't have to drill the head however they come with their own set of challenges and limitations.
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Old 30-09-2015, 05:00 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Rod-Tarry
Ray Hall (Emtron) has recommended Exhaust Gas Technologies 4 Channel amp. Im also looking at one made by Stack which is more expensive. They all have CJC as far as I can see.

Innovate TC-4 seems to be under £100 on ebay new... not sure what the spec is like but seems to have a sample rate of better (albeit only slightly) than 10Hz. And I think they also have logging software.
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Old 30-09-2015, 09:43 PM
  #118  
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Innovate - 12hz no cjc. Be a waste to buy probes that can detect individual combustion events, and connect to innovate. as the information would be lost at 12hz.

Omega have a large choice of K's.
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Old 01-10-2015, 06:13 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Rob_DOHC
Yes and yes... awesome tho and after having a play with a very old system a modern version is on my wish list. There are alternatives which mean you don't have to drill the head however they come with their own set of challenges and limitations.
Spark plug adapted ones are shite
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:56 AM
  #120  
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Have gone with Ray Halls suggestion & ordered the Exhaust Gas Technologies unit & 4 stinger probes. Not the cheapest its £405 delivered.
Next the decision on the Voltage Booster.
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