Colin_P

I've been on here a while and love looking at this section of the forum and thought it time I put some of my own DIY bodger efforts up

Quick story;
I had been driving newer stuff for quite a few years. Had an Audi A6 Avant TDI which written off when some twat heavily rear ended it on the A40 coming out of London. Totally dis-illusioned with cars I got the TDDI as the Wifies 1.6 'S' reg had been such a good car. Saved and continue to save a fortune running an old banger of a TDDI. Work frown as I should be spending my £5k a year car allowance on a 'newer' car but it is not my fault there are no age stipulations

We did sell her 'S' reg Focus and she started using the TDDI when I got an old VW Passat TDI.

But I'm on a medical driving ban for six months now following an SCA (sudden cardiac arrest) and the implantation of an ICD (Implanted Cardioverter Defibrillator). My heart is fine plumbing wise just got dodgy electrics caused 8 years ago by other SCA that were a result of a viral infection. Not good but you need to crack on!


Some pics below of both of the Foci (I'd had the TDDI a little while at that time). Wife's is the S reg the TDDI is the V reg (obviously). The S reg was near mint. We got rid of the S reg only in 2011.

Colin_P

When I got the TDDI it had the stock 14" steelies.

I picked up some of the twin spokey wheels cheap but never liked them.



So I got myself some Escort 5 spoke Ronals, like the Escos wheels but with little or no offset. I did a DIY freashen up on them...















Polished up after spraying

Colin_P

The TDDI needed a good service including the cambelt. I know a lot of people do this by simply slipping the belt off and replacing it but I did it belt and braces using;

Flywheel locking tool
Block timing pin
Cam locking bar
etc etc.

Also did quite a bit of stripping down in an effort to get rid 10+ years worth of gritty oily grime off the car. Note you can use a bit of studding on the lower block to support the engine when the mount is off rather than on the sump. I did this as the sump was already dented and I did want to damage it further.

The cambelt change was done in late 2009, in fact over the xmas holiday when I had a few days off.

Stud on jack to support engine


Timing pin in, alternator off, alternator bracket off for access and cleaning


Flywheel locked, you can see how much oily gritty crap is on the engine here.


Alternator, alternator carrier, engine mount on the floor


Other stuff on the floor (ignor the gearbox and strut LOL)


Aux belt Tensioner and how it is fitted


Cam locking bar


Old tensioner was out a bit as was the timing.


All done and most of the bits that were swapped out. Includes water pump and stat.


A really easy belt to do although I went way over the top.

Colin_P

Not the TDDI but the Wife's Mk1 1.6

Some pics I took when I did the cambelt and water pump on that. Might help someone for reference.

Pin in block


Cam(s) locking bar.


Water pump off, although this can be done without the cambelt being disturbed.


Waterpump on complete with a 'goog' splodge of RTV


New timing belt




Aux belt tensioner. note the power steering pump bolts onto it. I did label up with coloured arrows but cannot remember whats what. I did this about 4 years ago!

Colin_P

I soon retro-fitted a fuel computer.

I was lucky as it was plug and play, the wiring was already there. I didn't bother with the washer bottle though as I top the fluid up every week. Pics below can act as a partial guide on doing this really cheap modification. All I bought was the computer, the stalk and the temp sensor.

You can get a washer bottle with a float switch in it and a modified instrument surround. I butchered the cubby hole surround.





Cardboard template


Bit of hot melt glue!




If you have this wire (for the stalk) it is plug and play (along with the computer plug itself)


Computer plug




Note that the computer was only fitted to petrol cars (as far as I know) but works fine on the TDDI. You can calibrate it so it is very accurate. The only downside is the range can be slightly off as the Diesel fuel tank is less than the petrol tank capacity.

Colin_P

The thing I like about running an old car is that you can indulge in things that really are not necessary.

Kenlowe hot start engine pre-heater





















Mmmm toasty. I know it is an expensive luxury but it is still less than a months depreciation on the Audi I had before

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Cool project.Me and the wife have a 53 reg focus zetec and we love it.There a bloody good car.

Colin_P

Cheers Glen, they are rather good.

All the above was done late 2009 into 2010.

And it continued...

Had strange flat / dead spot in the steering. Quite unnerving it felt like there was huge freeplay somewhere.

Checked everything, all tight but the lower arm bushes looked a bit dodgy and the drivers side on was covered in gritty oil from previous sloppy & lazy oil changes by previous owners / garages.

So new front arms went on complete with new bolts and drop links for the anti roll bar.

This was done in early 2010.





Bushes were shagged, thought changing them would cure the steering issue.

Colin_P

Sadly the new lower arms did not cure the issue.

The next step was the steering rack!

The rack is bolted to the front subframe and needs the S/F dropping out of the car.

New bolts and an alignment pin kit for getting subframe alignment right


Exchange rack ready to go


My gaff, glad I dug and made the pit, makes life a lot easier but is still not ideal. I'd love a proper garage with a ramp but what I've got is good for occasional DIY use.


Alignment pins, alignment checked before removal of the S/F.


Steering column clamp bolt. This needs to be replaced. There are actually two of them, one pictured and one on the riser bar off the rack.


Jacked up and securely supported




Coming down


Down and out


Cleaned an new rack on. Note the design height of the ARB




New water funnel



The new rack SORTED out the steering issue !

Colin_P

Was not happy with the fact the fecking doors were going rusty on the "Clinched Flanges". Flange, what a good word but Ford cocked up their flange sealing work in a big way. They fucked their flanges

All four doors as well! Four 2nd hand ones sourced.

DIY re-spray time. I chose solid gloss black. Did the whole car except the roof which is still Panther Black Metallic. Did it in celly as well as a DIY'er..

This work was done in the Spring of 2010


































Quite chuffed with the results for DIY effort.

Colin_P

Wanted to lower her a bit onto some Eibachs.

That turned out to be a bit more than was strictly necessarily.

2nd Hand subframe
New Arms x8
New shocks / struts x4 complete with all the fiddly bits...









Some lines a drew on the control blade. Have no idea what they mean now but the alignment of the bush was the reason.

Colin_P

More...

Although new, I painted it.... ALL of it

Colin_P

Fitting up

On the 14" winter steels (with winter tyres) prior to the fit-up of the suspension.



Ready to be fitted except for the control blade bushes. I needed the angle from the old S/F for the bushes


Rear S/F mountings, think / remember there are three each side.






Coming down






New control blade bushes going in. Note the expensive tool

Colin_P

Whilst doing all that I thought in for a penny in for a pound so a rear disc conversion was in order...

You need;
Hubs
Calipers
Handbrake cable
Hoses
Hose brackets













Hose brackets


Handbrake cable is easy once the heatshield is out the way

Colin_P

Whilst doing the doors, I had to fit them back up.

The following are some captioned photos that might help someone someday as they do go wrong...

I cannot remember the exact order of the pics.

Slaney21

iTrader: (1)

I own one of these and i will be bookmarking this thread

A belt is squeaking on mine so need to find out if its just thst or a dodgy pulley! Only thing i am shocked at is how easy the doors rust on these cars

Colin_P

Hello Slaney,

What have you got? Is it a TDDI?

If so, the squeak is probably from the aux belt tensioner pulley. Can be done without disturbing very much but is a fiddle.

But as you probably know, the only way is to take the aux belt off and listen to each pulley in turn. Does it reduce with the A/C on?

Slaney21

iTrader: (1)

Hello yes i have a v reg green TDDi ghia

To be honest i haven't used the AC since i bought the car back in june. The previous owner said it needs a re gas but i will check later and see if having the ac switched on changes anything. It's normally hit and miss when it wants to make a racket but a guy at work said he can change the beltv(if it is that) for £30 so not too bad.

Wish i had the know how, time and expense to carry out the bits and bobs like your doing. Yours looks clean.

matt24680

good to see somebody taking care of a diesel focus just to let you know my focus tdci sport has a trip computer as standard so its not all petrols that have them

Colin_P

All the above was done in 2009 and 2010.

The car has been used without issue as a daily and this is how it stood in mid 2010. I got rid of the Escort Wheels and put some Ghia wheels on it. Despite it being a Ghia it came out with 14" steelies. The steelies have winter tyres on them and the car went places where 4x4's couldn't in the last few years when we had snow.

I also put a heated leather interior in the car at some point but have no pictures of that (for now).

It has been almost trouble free and has only needed a CV joint in the last three MOTs. That due to the boot coming off and the joint being full of grit.

These are the last lot of pictures from 2010 wix a mix of the Escort and Ghia wheels on it.











Despite having the Eibachs on it, it still looks like it has its arse in the air !

Worth doing all the work, probably not as the car is probably only worth £500 but I like it and it does 50+ MPG

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Cool updates you cant tell that the cat gas been lowered.

Colin_P

All of the above was done in late 2009 early 2010.

I had some bad news / a bad experience on July 29th this year. I had a sudden cardiac arrest (SCA) at the tender age of 42. Spent two weeks in hospital and came out with an ICD fitted inside my chest, an ICD is an Implanted Cardioverter Defibrillator for those that don't know. The ICD is a box of tricks that listens to my heart and will provide some low level pacing if needs be and if things gets bad it will give a full on defib belt. So far so good, it hasn't.

Part of having the ICD means that there is a compulsory 6 month DVLA ban from driving for six months. I'm about half way through as I write this.

The car I was using was 1.9 TDI powered Passat Estate. We took the Focus off the road and the Wife is now driving the Passat.

Having the Focus off the road means I can fettle about with it.

So far I have re-sprayed the bonnet, hatch and both bumpers which were looking tired.

Also from above I put a leather interior into it and got rid of every trace of fake wood, so new doorcards, centre dash section etc.

Although a Ghia, I've no idea how as out the factory it came with 14" steelies, no electric windows in the back, no trip computer (no solved) but with plenty of fake wanky wood, now gone!

As she stands today


Interior, excuse the cat paw prints on the back seats and it could do with a hoover!






And it is a Ghia !!!!

Colin_P

So.

There have been a few bits where it is starting to fray round the edges.

Now I've got the time to sort it, I thought I'd have a look.

The rear wheel arch liners are made out of fuzzy felt and hold water. Not good on a Ford.

Cill cover removed, clean as a whistle rot wise. I'll clean it and waxoyl it.


Bit of fraying round the rear arch.


Also some surface rot where the arch liners sit in the arch.






Hopefully I'll be able to brush the surface rust out with a cup brush in the mini grinder and re-paint. Not bad though considering she is 13 years old. Previous Fords I've had at much younger age have been worse. Stupid design of the water holding fuzzy felt and I reckon it'd be completely rust free.

Glad I've, hopefully caught it in time.

What else has happened in the three and half'ish years; the Kenlowe Hotstart has come and was sold as I WAS a natts cock away from getting rid of the car. She has also got 153,000 on the clock now.

Colin_P

It is only 13 years old for fucks sake. And I thought the rust issues were sorted on the newer stuff. Nope.

Took the sill cover off the passenger side, heard a grind when I undid one of the cover bolts and as sure as shit, this is what I was greeted with







Luckily is has not got near the floor. The inner vertical bit you can see is on an outer chassis leg. Not a difficult repair but I have a dilema....

I was fitted with an ICD (Implanted Cardioverter Defibrillator) back in August, it is like an advanced pacemaker. Part of having that are the specific warnings NOT to carry out any arc welding as the electromagnetic field generated can do all sorts to the ICD.

I've trawled the web on advice about this and the consensus is that the moderately low amperage from my MIG will be ok. Twisting the the earth round the live should also cut down on any EMF.

So, the rust itself is not that bad compared to what a lot of you have contended with and although I'm pissed off it is on such a 'new' car, the nightmare is should I weld or not

On a positive note the driver side was as clean as a whistle and the light fraying / surface rust came out with a wire brush in the grinder. With a drop of smooth hammerite to re-cover it. Should keep the car going for a few more years without the rot setting in a big way. It is the fuzzy felt rear arch liners holding water.

Any of you lot who has something nice (ST or RS) should take a really good look at this area on your cars and act now.

Look at this bodgerooney of a job

anthony lea

I've decided to take the jacking point covers off mine as they seem to hold dirt and moisture there!

Will be taking the sill covers off next year to treat the metal i think looking at what you discovered!

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Not good is it. We have a fleet on tranny connects at my work and most of them have had there sills welded.

My saff cossie is in the bodyshop at the mo. The ns sill both inner and outer were shot where as the os is ok.

Colin_P

Been doing a bit of bodgy metal butchery today.

Turns out there are four skins that form the lower sill down stand flange.

You have;

1, Outer sill

2, Outer inner sill

3, Down stand plate, this only extends about 250mm from the front and is probably only for stiffness.

4, Inner sill

The rust proofing is shockingly lacking once inside.

I've not done any car welding for about 20 years and was never that good with my 1991 vintage Clark gas-less mig welder. I'm more used to stick welding in recent years, not on cars.

Here is my antique welder


Last used probably about 10 years ago when I had to make a repair to my lawnmower

Anyway, I got things cut out as best as I could. Obviously I'm not doing a full restoration so my bodging will do.

Got everything as clean and shiny as I could with the limited access and am reasonably happy. If this work sees the car on the road for another 5 years, without attention I'll be more than happy.

Pictures below sort show the FORESKINS

The outer sill (cut back) is right at the top of this pic.


Below, you cannot see the downstand only the very edge of it. You've got the outer sill, outer inner, then the inner sill clearly visible.


Went in the kitchen and got a Rice Crispies box, made a template and cut out the repair panel for the downstand. I was very pleased with myself It looks wrong where it ends but that is how it was.


As the car is off the road at the moment I'm doing this in stages using some U-pol weld through primer as much as I can. I've never used it but hope it will provide some form of rust prevention and that I will be able to weld through it.

Due to access I'm going to weld the downstand using spot welds on the top and seam weld it where I can. Not ideal I know but I'm trying to keep the cost and time down on this. Shite design for longevity though in terms of rustproofing. The bottom of the downstand will be spot welded as it was from the factory.

The downstand was completely rusted away for about 30mm up from the the "foreskined" flange, as was the inner outer sill. Not good.

Below is my downstand is the weld through primer. Look at and admire the workmanship


So, next stages, probably one each evening this coming week will be;

1, Weld on downstand, grind the spot down ready for the next skin, prime it
2, Fabricate inner outer sill, prime it.
3, Weld on inner outer, prime it.
4, Faff about making some closing panels on the curved bit near the arch, prime them etc. Weld them.
5, Fab outer outer, prime it, weld it.
6, More faffing closing the outer outer, I'll re-use the curved bit thankfully which came off in a large unrusted section.

As above, all will be primed where possible to hopefully provide some modicum of rust prevention.

Any hints, tips more than welcomed Gents ?

Any another biggy for me, as I've mentioned somewhere above, I have an ICD (Implanted Cardioverter Defibrillator) fitted and the advice is not to weld. Well today I did and I didn't die

Fucking shitting myself when I first started about what would / could happen, would the ICD think I was going into VT or VF and give me a full on shock. It didn't, it was all quite normal.

SMILER258

This project has swayed me to get one as a daily. Great respect for doing this. Awesome work, all subtle, but neat, tidy improvements. Looks like a wicked daily. Are leather seats standard in some ghias? And your prep and metal work on the sill are of a very good standard. I would go as far to say it looks like a pro has done it. Although can I say one thing, Tidy that work bench up!!!

Was the respray with rattle cans or a compressor?

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

It was an option for the leather seats.

your doing a good job.I might fold the sides of the carpet over on the wifes car and see if I can spray some wax oil in the sills.

Colin_P

They are very good cars providing they don't rust like mine! Saying that I did read a thread on here about an 02 reg silver one that needed sills. There are millions out there so you should find a good'un. Look for rust obviously on the sillls but in particular the clinched flanges around the door and tailgate edges.

I got the leather seats 2nd hand for £130 a couple of years ago. They were not heated. I purchased a Wacco heated seat kit, took the covers off and fitted them heater pads, wired them up and the bum is toasty!

Thanks for the compliment on the work. I purchased a spot weld drill bit, a huge time saver and makes the butchery really neat.

Oh, and the bench, I know exactly where everything is.... NOT

Colin_P

There is a plastic carpet runner / holder that clips into the top of the sill. This runner clips into oblong slots. I'll be glugging some waxoil through them when I'm done.

Pic below (just taken) shows them.

Also shows some rust around one of the clips which looks like where the water has got in to do the rot below. Dodgy door seal rubber, inner door plastic sheet or maybe even water migrated from the pollen filter area (which is known area for water ingress). I'll further investigate once the welding is done.

Colin_P

Went back out to the garage last night as the Mrs was watching downtown abbey or some other shite.

Got the outer inner section in. Not the prettiest work but good and solid and it won't be seen. Had some trouble getting a clean weld in places with the flux cored wire.



I tapered the plate upwards on the left hand side so as to allow room for me to mess about about putting the curved end closer back on. The sill end where the curved bit goes steps in as well. Got some complicated fiddly work to do now as it will all be seen.

Curved end


Just been out to the garage and the car is covered in condensation (in the garage). Last night it was very cold with frost on our other car parked outside. But very mild now, that upward shift in temperature caused the condensation. Quite amazing but not good for welding. Just as well I got everything covered in weld through primer.

Might dry the damp out with a heat gun and have a go at the tricky outer and visible sill tonight after dinner.

PaulinhoT

All looking good a nice little project.

Colin_P

Messing about last night trying to figure out how to fabricate patch panels and gave up.

I had the good cardboard from a breakfast cereal box, mocked up a few bits and bobs out of steel and then gave up

I've ordered a complete new outer sill for a neater better job. For £30 delivered it wasn't worth not doing so, especially as there is a repair to do at the rear of that sill.

Colin_P

Cheers, been reading your project thread with interest as well.

Cardie

Keeping my eye on this one! Some handy stuff!

Colin_P

As you can tell I'm not a pro, in fact sit behind a desk at work.

But more metal butchery took place this evening. A good call deciding to replace the complete sill as I think I've caught it all just in time.

As always being an amature, any hints or tips more than welcomed.

Drilled and busted out the spot welds


There is a cross member at mid point with additional spot that I missed on the underside of the sill. I used a chisel and a lump hammer


Crossmember location shown. Look at the pitiful dribble of factory applied waxoil The rusty bit is where the additional spot welds were.


Next a few shots exposing the downstand seam and exposed inners to the sill box section. Note there are 3 skins. Not 4 skins like there were at the front end I'm leaving the rear end in place until the new sill arives tomorrow hopefully. I've also cut the main sill face quite low preserving the holes where the plastic outer trim fixes to until I know what is what with the new sill.

Rear end, i've left the last section until I get the new sill so as to know where to cut.




Looking towards the front, shows the cross member at mid point. Again look at the laughable factory waxoil Also admire the 3 skin (not 4 skin ) box section


Again, reckon I caught this just in time looking at the bit I cut out.


I will take a really close look at the drivers side now although it seems completely solid.

Cannot believe it is that bad on such a young car that supposedly had modern rust treatment at the factory.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Your doing a good job matey.

I work on royal mail vans for a living.We have a fleet of tranny connects and vauxhall combo vans.The running gear in the connects are brill but they have rusty as fook sills.We have welded loads up. The combos have shite running gear but the bodys dont rust.The paint flakes off but thats it.

Colin_P

Cheers Glenn,

The rot on this supposed next generation rust proofed Ford has really surprised me. The car is a 1999 which actually makes it almost 14 years old so not too bad when you look at it that way.

I really do think I've caught it just in time though. Mad though as it is worth bugger all but is nice to drive and does do 50+mpg.

Also quite low tech as it does not have a duel mass flywheel, no stupid dpf and not even ABS brakes which equals a nice simplicity.

The only weak point is the diesel pump but I've heard it is mainly the EDC module on the pump which can be repaired quite cheaply. Have you any experience of pump failures on the connects or are they TDCI's rather than TDDI's like on this old Focus?

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

The connects we have are both tddi.s and tdci.s. We have changed a few pumps but not loads. On the tddi.s you can just swap the module over on top of the pump.