St170 oem fuel injection project.
04-08-2013, 05:54 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
St170 oem fuel injection project.
St170 rwd oem fuel injection on a budget project.
I thought I would post up some info on a little project I've been playing with. It may be of interest to some.
An St170 engine turned 90 deg for rwd and run using its own ecu.
Most people have told me what's the point. Well because I can is as good a reason as any.
Aftermarket ecu's to run the vvt are around a grand for something like a Dta s60. Then there is the mapping and I haven't seen anyone map the vvt as well as Ford its just to complex to do in a couple of hours on a dyno.
Most delete the vvt and go with a cheaper ecu but you wont do it as cheap as this and get the same level of emissions imho. A dta s40 is around £600 plus mapping. My ecu is an ebay special and there is a breaker that knocks them out for £20 each with no mapping needed.
The st engine management is more complex than a standard zetec.
It has
vvt
Dsi
returnless fuel pump
I start by buying the said ebay special.
1hr's Work. Can I turn the immobilizer on and off.....AnswerYES
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UMyy6HXvQ4&feature=share&list=UUkDKrAHv1l NC5W0RspCbkIA
So I buy the wiring looms from the same guy, all nice and cheap. I now have lots and lots of work to do. The real work has started on stripping the loom to reduce it.
There are four looms in the engine bay. The main car loom and three for the engine. Its these three I’ve started on. There is only two on the <2000 Mondeo and other than a couple of extra plugs that’s all you need.So I’ve stripped back the three sub looms.
I am now tracing back from the ecu the (104 pins)
Ive done a marathon session on the wiring loom. I "think" I have traced back and worked out the colour and function of every pin on the st170 ecu loom.
Now starts the work of choping the loom up and removing the bits I dont want and rebuilding the loom to fit my kitcar. I am finding twice as many functions as the Mondeo means twice as much work.
If any one is thinking of having ago ? then the only plug you need from the car loom with the fuse box is the plug for the Imrc.
On the gearbox loom you want the pre o2 sensor plug and the cps plug. On the dash board loom that I didn't get there is the transceiver plug and the obd2 port. I just robbed these two from a mk3 Mondeo.
The finished wiring loom.
Ive now bought an engine to play with.
Engine stripped of extras.
The plan was to put it in rwd kitcar so I started chopping the sump
There was no flywheel on the engine when I got it but Iwould have dumped it as it’s a dual mass. On goes a solid 220mm flywheel with a new clutch and a spigot bearing to suite a T9 or Mt75box.
I drew around the bellhousing and cut a dust cover from 1.5mm steel to go between the engine and the bellhousing.
For a 7 I wanted a smaller alternator so a trip to the scrapie returned a nice little denso unit. So work started on the custom mounts and idler set up.
Belt fitted, cost me more than the alternator…..grrr
So I now need to bolt the engine to something to run it up.Time to butcher that naff mechanics creeper stood in the corner lol. More bits are obtained and the engine plumbed.
I need to mount the electrics to something so yet more scrapfinding a new home.
All that’s left is the exhaust. The st170 manifold wont fit now due to the sump mods so I cut it up and modified it to suite a locost.
Time for testing…
The ignition panel has a toggle switch as the ignition on.Its illuminated to show power. The red lamp is for the alternator charge lightand the back light on the starter button is for the low oil pressure warninglight.
So turn the power on and the Pats indicator stops flashing and stays on solid for a couple of seconds before going out. The immobilizer is happy and disarmed. The engine can now be started.
A quick press of the button and she fires into life. The oil pressure light and alternator charge light go out.
The idle is a little high but settles down to an expected 880 ish rpm. Note the engine isn't keen on no air filter.
So its been running now for around 3/4 of an hour and is running great. Fan is cutting in at 101 deg and off again at 95 deg. Its gone through a couple of litres of unleaded and is still showing no Cel codes. Its happy running with out the dash.
Jobs to do.
Get some more petrol and run it for longer.
Buy some proper sealant for the sump.
Dress the engine.
And last of all find a new home for it.
I thought I would post up some info on a little project I've been playing with. It may be of interest to some.
An St170 engine turned 90 deg for rwd and run using its own ecu.
Most people have told me what's the point. Well because I can is as good a reason as any.
Aftermarket ecu's to run the vvt are around a grand for something like a Dta s60. Then there is the mapping and I haven't seen anyone map the vvt as well as Ford its just to complex to do in a couple of hours on a dyno.
Most delete the vvt and go with a cheaper ecu but you wont do it as cheap as this and get the same level of emissions imho. A dta s40 is around £600 plus mapping. My ecu is an ebay special and there is a breaker that knocks them out for £20 each with no mapping needed.
The st engine management is more complex than a standard zetec.
It has
vvt
Dsi
returnless fuel pump
I start by buying the said ebay special.
1hr's Work. Can I turn the immobilizer on and off.....AnswerYES
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UMyy6HXvQ4&feature=share&list=UUkDKrAHv1l NC5W0RspCbkIA
So I buy the wiring looms from the same guy, all nice and cheap. I now have lots and lots of work to do. The real work has started on stripping the loom to reduce it.
There are four looms in the engine bay. The main car loom and three for the engine. Its these three I’ve started on. There is only two on the <2000 Mondeo and other than a couple of extra plugs that’s all you need.So I’ve stripped back the three sub looms.
I am now tracing back from the ecu the (104 pins)
Ive done a marathon session on the wiring loom. I "think" I have traced back and worked out the colour and function of every pin on the st170 ecu loom.
Now starts the work of choping the loom up and removing the bits I dont want and rebuilding the loom to fit my kitcar. I am finding twice as many functions as the Mondeo means twice as much work.
If any one is thinking of having ago ? then the only plug you need from the car loom with the fuse box is the plug for the Imrc.
On the gearbox loom you want the pre o2 sensor plug and the cps plug. On the dash board loom that I didn't get there is the transceiver plug and the obd2 port. I just robbed these two from a mk3 Mondeo.
The finished wiring loom.
Ive now bought an engine to play with.
Engine stripped of extras.
The plan was to put it in rwd kitcar so I started chopping the sump
There was no flywheel on the engine when I got it but Iwould have dumped it as it’s a dual mass. On goes a solid 220mm flywheel with a new clutch and a spigot bearing to suite a T9 or Mt75box.
I drew around the bellhousing and cut a dust cover from 1.5mm steel to go between the engine and the bellhousing.
For a 7 I wanted a smaller alternator so a trip to the scrapie returned a nice little denso unit. So work started on the custom mounts and idler set up.
Belt fitted, cost me more than the alternator…..grrr
So I now need to bolt the engine to something to run it up.Time to butcher that naff mechanics creeper stood in the corner lol. More bits are obtained and the engine plumbed.
I need to mount the electrics to something so yet more scrapfinding a new home.
All that’s left is the exhaust. The st170 manifold wont fit now due to the sump mods so I cut it up and modified it to suite a locost.
Time for testing…
The ignition panel has a toggle switch as the ignition on.Its illuminated to show power. The red lamp is for the alternator charge lightand the back light on the starter button is for the low oil pressure warninglight.
So turn the power on and the Pats indicator stops flashing and stays on solid for a couple of seconds before going out. The immobilizer is happy and disarmed. The engine can now be started.
A quick press of the button and she fires into life. The oil pressure light and alternator charge light go out.
The idle is a little high but settles down to an expected 880 ish rpm. Note the engine isn't keen on no air filter.
So its been running now for around 3/4 of an hour and is running great. Fan is cutting in at 101 deg and off again at 95 deg. Its gone through a couple of litres of unleaded and is still showing no Cel codes. Its happy running with out the dash.
Jobs to do.
Get some more petrol and run it for longer.
Buy some proper sealant for the sump.
Dress the engine.
And last of all find a new home for it.
Last edited by big_wasa; 05-08-2013 at 05:23 PM.
23-08-2013, 07:37 PM
#7
Advanced PassionFord User
So can you turn the imobilser off permanatly?.Can I do this to a mondeo ecu with internal pats and the link isn't working for you tube
Last edited by Mk4 Rick; 23-08-2013 at 07:39 PM.
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25-08-2013, 02:51 PM
#8
Advanced PassionFord User
01-09-2013, 06:17 PM
#11
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
No you cant turn it of permanently but you can use just the immobilizer with out the alarm.
I've written an how to guide for the silver and black tops. If there is interest I can post them up here ?
vid works my end, you will see my other vids for silver, black top ecu's.
My little specialty is putting them in kitcars.
07-03-2019, 07:35 PM
#12
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Help needed
I saw this is an old thread but helps needed. I have an st170 engine that I want to drop in the 1.6 cabby escort. Wat loom and ecu is best to use can I use a Mondeo ecu with my escort loom.. obviously I have the st loom but the guys cut bits here n there n want to elimatesome bits as no airbags aircon ect help would be awesome
07-03-2019, 09:33 PM
#13
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
Yeh I am still about, I forgot I posted that one up here. There is a longer thread on locostbuilders.
Best, cheapest and easiest are three differant things and the saying goes you can pick any two.
I would start with the age of the Escort as this will have a bearing on emission standards needed for Mot.
Are you looking for max power or cheap reliable day to day grunt.
i would forget the Mondeo ecu it won’t control the vvt and won’t be the best feeling option.
Best power option for the St is throttle bodies and aftermarket ecu, £2k plus mapping and 200bhp
Carbs and aftermarket with vvt is a little cheaper but not as mot friendly depending on year.
Diy versions of the above, more work and less cost.
oem injection if you can get it all to fit is cheap as chips, mot friendly, day to day reliable. The trade off is the wiring work and 155~170 bhp.
Cheers
Best, cheapest and easiest are three differant things and the saying goes you can pick any two.
I would start with the age of the Escort as this will have a bearing on emission standards needed for Mot.
Are you looking for max power or cheap reliable day to day grunt.
i would forget the Mondeo ecu it won’t control the vvt and won’t be the best feeling option.
Best power option for the St is throttle bodies and aftermarket ecu, £2k plus mapping and 200bhp
Carbs and aftermarket with vvt is a little cheaper but not as mot friendly depending on year.
Diy versions of the above, more work and less cost.
oem injection if you can get it all to fit is cheap as chips, mot friendly, day to day reliable. The trade off is the wiring work and 155~170 bhp.
Cheers
07-03-2019, 09:43 PM
#14
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Yeh I am still about, I forgot I posted that one up here. There is a longer thread on locostbuilders.
Best, cheapest and easiest are three differant things and the saying goes you can pick any two.
I would start with the age of the Escort as this will have a bearing on emission standards needed for Mot.
Are you looking for max power or cheap reliable day to day grunt.
i would forget the Mondeo ecu it won’t control the vvt and won’t be the best feeling option.
Best power option for the St is throttle bodies and aftermarket ecu, £2k plus mapping and 200bhp
Carbs and aftermarket with vvt is a little cheaper but not as mot friendly depending on year.
Diy versions of the above, more work and less cost.
oem injection if you can get it all to fit is cheap as chips, mot friendly, day to day reliable. The trade off is the wiring work and 155~170 bhp.
Cheers
Best, cheapest and easiest are three differant things and the saying goes you can pick any two.
I would start with the age of the Escort as this will have a bearing on emission standards needed for Mot.
Are you looking for max power or cheap reliable day to day grunt.
i would forget the Mondeo ecu it won’t control the vvt and won’t be the best feeling option.
Best power option for the St is throttle bodies and aftermarket ecu, £2k plus mapping and 200bhp
Carbs and aftermarket with vvt is a little cheaper but not as mot friendly depending on year.
Diy versions of the above, more work and less cost.
oem injection if you can get it all to fit is cheap as chips, mot friendly, day to day reliable. The trade off is the wiring work and 155~170 bhp.
Cheers
cheers for quick reply....
well I was looking at something simply n low cost it converting the mk6 cabrio changing front n no to style the mk5 just a toy n project nothing too special just like the st170 but I know the loom n ecu a pig n standalone out my price range atm. Sitting next to the st170 it looks like for like on the 1.6 silvertop I took out with few mods like inlet and pulleys n locations of the aux I thought I could run on Mondeo ecu stripping my escort loom
07-03-2019, 10:12 PM
#15
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
Oem isn’t much harder than any stand alone ecu, there are just more sensors and bits than say Ms or omex or xyz. If you go for it, the st ecu needs all the engine sensors and actuators to work properly including the inlet manifold with the Imrc.
cheers
cheers
19-03-2019, 12:24 AM
#16
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Hi wasa following i think everyone of your posts regarding st170 anyway im doing my own conversion using oem into a sierra p100 but the down side is the inlet manafold is it possible to make my own inlet and have the ecu fooled that the imrc still works although not conected at the inlet manifold? Thanks
19-03-2019, 08:38 AM
#17
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
The imrc needs to pull a spring loaded load. With out, it will peg the ECU back to just above that of a standard zetec.
This could be just a spring. This would lilley create a flat spot in the map but I can't say for sure as I haven't explored it.
people have got the plenum to fit all sorts by flipping it upside down.
This could be just a spring. This would lilley create a flat spot in the map but I can't say for sure as I haven't explored it.
people have got the plenum to fit all sorts by flipping it upside down.
19-03-2019, 10:10 AM
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The imrc needs to pull a spring loaded load. With out, it will peg the ECU back to just above that of a standard zetec.
This could be just a spring. This would lilley create a flat spot in the map but I can't say for sure as I haven't explored it.
people have got the plenum to fit all sorts by flipping it upside down.
This could be just a spring. This would lilley create a flat spot in the map but I can't say for sure as I haven't explored it.
people have got the plenum to fit all sorts by flipping it upside down.
19-03-2019, 10:24 AM
#19
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
If you have a look around the net there are a few in kitcars a couple of mk2 escorts and even an mgb with the plenum flipped over.
You just have to make a bracket up to support it.
The turbo charged zetec aka The Focus Rs is easier to install as its not as fussy.
You just have to make a bracket up to support it.
The turbo charged zetec aka The Focus Rs is easier to install as its not as fussy.
24-03-2019, 03:41 PM
#20
Used this method in a mk4 escort, spliced the engine loom from the focus into the 1.3 loom , works perfect, also inlet fits into the bay but has had to be modified.
Do you have any issues with reading from the OBD with the modules removed? are the engine fault codes stored direct in the ecu?.
I have a delphi code reader and it will not go into it (not sure if its wired correctly though) but i have a modified ELM327 and forscan and it goes in perfectly but if i unplug something like the MAF sensor it doesnt register it as a fault.
Top guide on locostbuilders though, defiantly worth people saving that for reference.
Do you have any issues with reading from the OBD with the modules removed? are the engine fault codes stored direct in the ecu?.
I have a delphi code reader and it will not go into it (not sure if its wired correctly though) but i have a modified ELM327 and forscan and it goes in perfectly but if i unplug something like the MAF sensor it doesnt register it as a fault.
Top guide on locostbuilders though, defiantly worth people saving that for reference.
24-03-2019, 06:33 PM
#21
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
No issues with reading obd2 data from the ecu, I’ve several differant ones. Yes engine codes are in the ecu. Cheap obd2 readers only read engine codes where as Forscan will show more. If you plug in the dash then it will show faults for missing stuff like the abs.
03-04-2020, 09:36 AM
#25
I have a mk3 fiesta with an st lump in I got it running with the focus loom but it's very bulky I been told to get the fiesta loom and splice the focus loom in i seen u made a video on YouTube could u message me on 07738150019 to adivise me better plz
04-04-2020, 04:37 PM
#26
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
My party trick is running the Ford engines out side of a ford. So I work out the ecu wiring as if it was a stand alone ecu. This can be used to run it anyware. I am into kitcars others have used the info to put them into hot rods, boats and all sorts.
Trouble is, guys on this forum want to know how to integrate this back into a ford. There are multi ways to do this depending on age. As it’s somthing I am not into I don’t have the info to hand. I would like to help more but I just don’t have any time and I must get asked a few times a week.
I post up all I know, the st170 thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/47/viewthread.php?tid=190440
st170 ecu
FRs ecu.
St220 ecu.
Trouble is, guys on this forum want to know how to integrate this back into a ford. There are multi ways to do this depending on age. As it’s somthing I am not into I don’t have the info to hand. I would like to help more but I just don’t have any time and I must get asked a few times a week.
I post up all I know, the st170 thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/47/viewthread.php?tid=190440
st170 ecu
FRs ecu.
St220 ecu.
04-04-2020, 04:49 PM
#27
St engine wiring
My party trick is running the Ford engines out side of a ford. So I work out the ecu wiring as if it was a stand alone ecu. This can be used to run it anyware. I am into kitcars others have used the info to put them into hot rods, boats and all sorts.
Trouble is, guys on this forum want to know how to integrate this back into a ford. There are multi ways to do this depending on age. As it’s somthing I am not into I don’t have the info to hand. I would like to help more but I just don’t have any time and I must get asked a few times a week.
I post up all I know, the st170 thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/47/viewthread.php?tid=190440
st170 ecu
https://youtu.be/gjsu8mMp0kw
FRs ecu.
https://youtu.be/afwiOZWXQKk
St220 ecu.
https://youtu.be/Glc6eYPDDx4
Trouble is, guys on this forum want to know how to integrate this back into a ford. There are multi ways to do this depending on age. As it’s somthing I am not into I don’t have the info to hand. I would like to help more but I just don’t have any time and I must get asked a few times a week.
I post up all I know, the st170 thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/47/viewthread.php?tid=190440
st170 ecu
https://youtu.be/gjsu8mMp0kw
FRs ecu.
https://youtu.be/afwiOZWXQKk
St220 ecu.
https://youtu.be/Glc6eYPDDx4
25-04-2020, 11:29 PM
#28
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I’m having ago lol
Inspired by your you tube video, I’m attempting the loom chop to run my 1971 ford taunus with an st170 engine and type 9 gearbox on the standard focus loom!
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Tinman (28-04-2020)
28-04-2020, 03:36 AM
#32
Learning all the time!
Relays & fuses
Hi, wat relays are needed?, I see a yellow relay on your you tube video, wats that one for?, also wats others are needed, wat colour wires connect to them?, do I leave the barometer connected in the loom, and how do I connect the run relay and start inhibit relay, been in the shed since 21:00 yesterday reading and chasing wires on my loom, it’s now just gone 4:30am and ive had enough for tonight/this morning lol!, all help welcomed, regards Tony
Last edited by Tinman; 28-04-2020 at 03:38 AM.
28-04-2020, 03:37 AM
#33
Learning all the time!
28-04-2020, 08:31 AM
#34
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
Relays depend on what your doing with the engine and what functions you need.
I cant remember what the relay was for. Probably starter inhibit.
If your running an external fan switch you don’t need that one. If you do you need the ford green 5 pin relay as it won’t work otherwise for some reason.
Start inhibit stops the engine from cranking as part of the Immobilizer. If your not fussed it works perfectly well with out.
Power control relay., again it depends on what your putting it in. If you where using heavy duty switch gear you could do with out that as well. If your sticking it back in a car I would use it.
I will say the St170 is one of the most involved looms I’ve done due to the amount of sensors and actuators.
just do one circuit at a time and work through it. I often do the injectors first. Four switched earths to the ecu and one switched live.
Simples.
Coil, two switched earths to the ecu and one switched live
And so on.....
I cant remember what the relay was for. Probably starter inhibit.
If your running an external fan switch you don’t need that one. If you do you need the ford green 5 pin relay as it won’t work otherwise for some reason.
Start inhibit stops the engine from cranking as part of the Immobilizer. If your not fussed it works perfectly well with out.
Power control relay., again it depends on what your putting it in. If you where using heavy duty switch gear you could do with out that as well. If your sticking it back in a car I would use it.
I will say the St170 is one of the most involved looms I’ve done due to the amount of sensors and actuators.
just do one circuit at a time and work through it. I often do the injectors first. Four switched earths to the ecu and one switched live.
Simples.
Coil, two switched earths to the ecu and one switched live
And so on.....
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Tinman (28-04-2020)
28-04-2020, 10:17 AM
#35
Learning all the time!
I’ve left my engine loom complete and basically used the ecu wiring loom and traced all the wires that way Bk to the ecu, wat pins on each of the said relays ate wat, live, earth switched??
01-05-2020, 01:53 PM
#36
Learning all the time!
Green relay
How is the green relay wired up, help needed!,
is the black/blue wire that comes out the relay and goes to pin 68 a switched earth in the ecu wen temp reaches wat it is ment to, then the fan kicks in???
is the black/blue wire that comes out the relay and goes to pin 68 a switched earth in the ecu wen temp reaches wat it is ment to, then the fan kicks in???
01-05-2020, 09:05 PM
#37
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
The ecu switches the earths. You will want the fast / high speed switch. Slow / low is used for the Ac.
You will want some cable capable of around 25a min. 2.5mm2. Into the relay and out to the fan on the big spades. 12v into the relay, the ecu earths it on the opposite pin. And the fifth tiny pin is a separate chassis earth.
You will want some cable capable of around 25a min. 2.5mm2. Into the relay and out to the fan on the big spades. 12v into the relay, the ecu earths it on the opposite pin. And the fifth tiny pin is a separate chassis earth.
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Tinman (01-05-2020)
01-05-2020, 09:25 PM
#38
Learning all the time!
The ecu switches the earths. You will want the fast / high speed switch. Slow / low is used for the Ac.
You will want some cable capable of around 25a min. 2.5mm2. Into the relay and out to the fan on the big spades. 12v into the relay, the ecu earths it on the opposite pin. And the fifth tiny pin is a separate chassis earth.
You will want some cable capable of around 25a min. 2.5mm2. Into the relay and out to the fan on the big spades. 12v into the relay, the ecu earths it on the opposite pin. And the fifth tiny pin is a separate chassis earth.
Last edited by Tinman; 01-05-2020 at 10:07 PM.
02-05-2020, 06:48 AM
#39
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
That’s the one I am trying first 
with my single fan set up in my kitcar, infact I wired that one up yesterday.
i havnt used this function much as I’ve typically used an external switch.
with my single fan set up in my kitcar, infact I wired that one up yesterday.i havnt used this function much as I’ve typically used an external switch.
