M K

iTrader: (9)

Also if anybody can help I'm after an older style Tial spring

I am after one the same as the Middle 1 in this photo but it needs to be the yellow version which is rated at 2.9psi


It is 1.875" outside diameter and roughly 3.75" long

I can't find 1 anywhere


Thanks
Marc

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Great work yet again Marc
This car just keeps.on evolving
Where will it end

M K

iTrader: (9)

Cheers Dave and Toby

sgracing

M K

iTrader: (9)

You know

Punter

Happy days another mini going on the 9th

frayz

Can I get a sit in this on the 9th please Marc?

M K

iTrader: (9)

Yes mate as long as i do not break anything at Brands hatch the week before that can't be sorted by Snetterton

M K

iTrader: (9)

Topped up the attessa red today with dexron II atf and pressure bled with compressor

Not ran the pump yet as not wired up but seems to be air lock in middle of reservoir but hopefully will go when we run the pump up

See here what I mean



There's some kind of filter in the middle of the res too so that may also have something to do with it

Going to SiLECK Motorsport wiring tomorrow to get the pump and ets pro wired in in full dr25 and deutsch dtm connectors etc

Pics to follow tomorrow

M K

iTrader: (9)

Went down to Simon @ Sileck Motorsport wiring today for the loom to be made up for the ETS PRO diff controller

It's 80miles each way give or take a mile

Glad I took ear defenders as the car noise is not long journey friendly lol



Got there nice and early about 9:30am



At the end of the day the control box loom was done and in and all seems to be working ok

Deutsch plugs for attessa pump


Loom plug for handbrake release, this has not been added yet as we did not have a switch I liked that I thought would go well, needs to be an open circuit normally and closed when pressed



New breakers
40amp for attessa pump and 10amp for the ets unit itself

Also the switch to ground for instant 2wd or 4wd this output is what we split for the handbrake release




And lastly the manual/auto button and diff control gain knob all lit and working




And lastly a nice shot of some perfect lambda 1 when cruising on the way home

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

Tidy.

So all done then, except being able to use the wand in 4wd mode?

markk

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you use a proper proximity switch, no messing then.

How does the box feel compared to the MT75?

JonnyBravo

Is the 4wd controlled by the ecu or just manual switchover ?

Ignore that. Spotted your box of tricks on your Facebook page

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Looking good mate and as to the air it's a pane in the ass but when I did my setup I just ran the pump and flicking the switch from 2wd to 4x4 then all of a sudden the pump sounded funny and air shut up in to the oil tank job done but it did take 10/15min to get it to prime and that's it you will never need to do it again

JonnyBravo

edited

M K

iTrader: (9)

Yes mate, this gearbox is very noisy though and needs a rebuild so il leave for brands and snetterton if it will last then rebuild box over winter


Hi Mark, is there any specific switch you would recommend to use?

The box feels good but this 1 I bought second hand as it very noisy and in need of a rebuild so will be better to compare with a fresh box


All controlled via the ETS PRO unit, the handbrake and 2wd/4wd switch just grounds the relay to cut the pump pressure giving instant 2wd


Il give it a try mate, some also suggested car idling on stands in 3rd gear and bleeding so will try that as well

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

Nice one Marc, so you can almost enjoy it now, except for a box rebuild lol.

all that hard effort has paid off, and you nkow you have built something pretty damn special!

just dont bin it

stu21t

I think even I would cry if he did that😂
And I've never even met him or seen the car in the flesh lol


And am I asking a daft question when I say, why does the handbrake switch the car to 2wd? Why do you want it to I mean?

Caddyshack

My reservoir did that but it just seemed to sort itself out after a little of the pump running, as Coley says the pump changes in sound and then the return starts to refil the reservoir.

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

i think we would all cry!

using the handbrake and locking the rear wheels on a 4wd car is bad.

the centre diff wont like it at all.

by switching to 2wd it will cut power to the front wheels, so as long as the clutch is dipped the rears can be locked with no issues

M K

iTrader: (9)

I don't plan on binning it but these things happen lol

I forgot a couple of little things

New comms lead as broke the clip on my old 1 which made wills mapping job a mare lol



Finally found a new 2.9psi waste gate spring from Germany and got it fitted





And lastly here's the tps signal wire for the ets diff controller, when I had the loom modded for dbw I kept original tps live so we just connected to the signal wire



This engine loom will be for sale soon if anybody's interested

wayne thomas

Surely it will cut the power to the back wheels allowing you to lock them without dipping the clutch and maintaining front end drive.

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

See above quote

markk

iTrader: (2)

It actually opens the solenoid to allow all accumulated pressure to return to the tank thus making rwd, the car/box is rwd, has no center diff other than a wet clutch pack that transfers drive from the rear to the front when loss of traction or low G force is meaured againt high revs/WOT.

wayne thomas

Thought it would be a handbrake release mechanism like an escort world car.

markk

iTrader: (2)

It is except no VC

wayne thomas

So same idea but opposite effect, cutting the drive to front in this application but the rear in the world car?

markk

iTrader: (2)

iirc the world car does the same, the handbrake release on grpa and valve block via rexroth valves still requires clutch down after front release

Mark

wayne thomas

I was certain the world car cut drive to the rear and can't recall ever having to use the clutch in tandem with the handbrake, the grey cells must be dulling with time.

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

I didnt know they used Rexroth valves. I work for Bosch Rexroth, but repair electronic drives and controls - nothing to do with the hydraulics side

M K

iTrader: (9)

Bit of work done on the car today,

Had a problem of the cambelt walking off the pulleys slightly and running against the crank sprocket guide and edge of the tensioner causing it to rub and chamfer the edge of the belt,

Bit dodgy and making a mess of the bay due to the rubber dust

Few pics of problem






Have put this down to a worn tensioner and possibly Jack shaft but just for peace of mind I have change back to a steel crank sprocket and steel aux pulley,

This was the first cambelt change I have ever done so was a bit nervous lol but it's very simple and was easy so no dramas, new uprated dayco belt fitted with new tensioner and I have ran the car up for 5 mins only as no rad fitted yet but all seems ok now,

Belt still runs close to the edge of the tensioner but is not touching now like it was before











Hopefully that will stop it doing it again and is good peace of mind before brands hatch,

Thanks to Jano for the aux pulley and Adamski for the crank sprocket

Thanks
Marc

M K

iTrader: (9)

Doing a bit of a nut and bolt check as im out on track at Brands Hatch Monday




Rear diff flange locking nut had come completely off and was only being held on by the propshaft!


So took it all apart and toque'd back up to spec and put some torque check paint on it for future reference


Just goes to show how much gets rattled loose etc on the first few hundred miles out as everything on the car was nice and tight before it ever turned a wheel,


Hopefully tonight me and Will shall be out setting up the new boost control to give me a few different settings on the 12 position cal switch


Weather depending!

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

those capheads look bloody close to the diff casing too!

M K

iTrader: (9)

There very close but do not touch

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

Until the diff bearings wear a little lol

at least you spotted the other one before something broke!

good luck with the mapping!

Caddyshack

Glad you spotted the cam belt as that could have been costly. Also good spot on the loose nut. I will nut and bolt check mine after 250 / 500 miles.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Well just to make things more tedious the water pump went tonight lol

Developed a leak from this small hole which everyone says is the signs of bearings gone!


So even more annoying is my pump is modified to suit my 10long stud set up

But hopefully Tommy @ FMS will have a new 1 machines for me by lunchtime tomorrow



Seems my last few problem with this pump and the tensioner are down to rust/corrosion issues due to having the engine built about 4 years ago then leaving it sitting in a garage for 3 years

Never mind, hopefully back together tomorrow night

M K

iTrader: (9)

New water pump fitted after rushing to find 1 and getting the blades machined,



Took it for a drive to run and then check coolant etc so went to see my brother in law who was running his van on the hub dyno

720bhp @ the wheels ain't bad lol

gus

iTrader: (1)

And I bet his still not happy with that

Caddyshack

Is it really that much?