Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

Nice, should be pretty bullet proof with that lot in place

M K

iTrader: (9)

Eventually mate,

That's the plan

M K

iTrader: (9)

Finally got my speedo working on my race tech dash today after a proper head banging few days and turned out to need a 3k resistor between 5v and signal as the life racing speed sensor only show 0.22 - 0.74 volts high low swing,

Simple fix for most but taken me 3 days as electrics and all that is beyond me, but learning a lot as I go with this project lol

M K

iTrader: (9)

Set up day tomorrow with Tommy at FMS

Hopefully get some boost in it without the gearbox letting go as its already making some funky noises so not very hopeful ��

Billy_RS

iTrader: (5)

Good luck mate

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

All the best i hope it runs nice when the boost is turned up .

smiley

Bet your buzzin good luck mate

Caddyshack

Will be good to see what power it makes.

M K

iTrader: (9)

It was only a bit of road mapping today but came to an abrupt stop when it popped a driveshaft luckily at low speed so no damage done,

Also the gearbox is not happy at all and that was before we started, needs a rebuild so today was a test day for an hour but has highlighted already the shaft and boc issues that need sorting before we go back

Don't want to do any cutting just yet for the skyline box so going to rebuild the mt75 to standard and map the car to 1bar with that for now

Caddyshack

I know how it feels....headaches. Just need to keep lugging on knowing it will be worth it in the end

smiley

Just teething trouble to be expected

zetaboostboy522bhp

What shafts you running mark ? Are they the extended ones ?
Hope you sort it soon mate

Cheers Paul

M K

iTrader: (9)

Yeah I'm not disheartened at all, these things are to be expected

But Proof the car drives despite today's issues of the box being fucked and popping a driveshaft when mapping

M K

iTrader: (9)

I'm only running standard length shafts so will be ordering up longer ones tomorrow that should solve the issue but will check plung properly before ordering

Mark RS

iTrader: (13)

Sits on the road really well. Looks class,I'm sure your well please to get her moving under her own steam

M K

iTrader: (9)

Cheers mate

M K

iTrader: (9)

Well before I order up extended shafts on Monday I am going to check plunge etc

But before that I picked up a working standard mt75 gearbox just to throw in the car and get me going for now, it has a small piece of the case missing where a front prop has hit it at some point and broke it off but for what I want it's not worth the time repairing it so I'm going seal up the hole to stop dirt getting in and get it back in the car tomorrow,

Box out


Secondhand box with broken case that's going in for a couple of weeks


Also today the reason why I'm not going to spend time or decent money on another mt75 box is because I picked up the rest of an r32 box to test fit in the car,

After seeing it all in 1 piece I wrote the idea off due to size but while my box was out I offered it up under the fiesta and of course I need to enlarge the transfer case part of the tunnel but it doesn't actually look too bad to fit,

Both cases are going to MK next week to weld up then I can get them back and get a box built up

Anyway a rough test fit





Where the transfer case fouls as expected


Once I have the front bellhousing modded by MK and back I can then accurately mark up and cut out what's needed to get it in there

Here is the difference between a standard skyline bellhousing on the left and the modified cosworth conversion 1 on the right, the modded 1 is approx 10mm taller due to the skyline input shaft being longer

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

It's the best mod you will ever do to your car putting the skyline box in i love my setup in my focos the only problem is i keep driving it in 2wd as it's so much fun lol but in 4x4 you can not beet it I just have to watch how much 4x4 i us as if i lock it 50/50 and turn the car very slow I can dip the clutch and the car will stop as the front and rear wheel are fighting each uver . I will one day get the black box that Toby has got for his 205 pug cossy it controls the gearbox by a geo sensor so when you boot it it puts it's into 4x4 and as you rolling it backs the 4x4 off and into 2wd and so on a very nice bit of kit . Any help just drop me a line and i will help you ware I can

Caddyshack

Yes, I think the ETS pro is going to be a good controller, a lot of the skyline track day boys and racers upgrade the old r32 and r33 cars from factory to the new box of tricks and report faster lap times....the instructions say that on Manual with the control know all the way round it will stall the engine at low speeds by looking up the diff so tight.

It has yaw sensor and g sensor to control the auto map plus hand brake and brake de lock if you want it, I have put mine on a switch so I can just bung it in to 2wd if I want.

http://www.full-race.com/store/r14-a...ne-gt-r-1.html

M K

iTrader: (9)

Ian/Toby

What pump can I use to control the box as I really don't like the look or size of the original Attessa units!

ossie cossie

could you not fab up a nice box to put the original Atessa pump and reservoir in side, i am sure you could do it, your work on this car so far is second to none.

M K

iTrader: (9)

I could do I suppose mate

Can get an attessa pump tomorrow for Ł50 so may pick 1 up anyway while I am there

Caddyshack

Based on the high pressure at up to 500psi I think you need the attesa. It isn't huge, I mounted mine under the car on anti vibration mounts.

ossie cossie

I just put mine in the boot on top of the spare tyre hump.

graham c

iTrader: (5)

Mines just in the boot

M K

iTrader: (9)

I dont have much of a boot lol

M K

iTrader: (9)

Picking pump up tomorrow so will have a look once I've got it

graham c

iTrader: (5)

Behind drivers seat

Caddyshack

Mine is under the car on anti vibration mounts and sits above the exhaust with a small heat shield. The reservoir sits in the boot.


Some skylines were boot mounted and others tucked up behind the rear bumper.

ossie cossie

When i got mine i had to take it off myself it was mounted on top of the rear diff. I just thought if its in the rear i can access it easily if i need to fix something on it, or just to check its working. Here is a pic.


Pump and reservoir.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Has anybody ran one up to see how noisy they are?

Picked mine up today,



It's an R32 version so is a bit smaller than the R33 as it does not have the fail safe cylinder

Caddyshack

Not very noisey, mine just hums and vibrates a bit. Nothing like the electric accumulator on the abs or like a fuel pump.

Mine is the R32 pump too.

M K

iTrader: (9)

As mentioned before I had a front driveshaft pop out when mapping which called a stop to the day straight away, well once home and looked at the problem was far worse than I thought and we were lucky to get away with no damage

Here is how the shafts were when I removed the boots

Full droop


Full compression


Now before anyone sees that and think it's from poor workmanship let me just state.....

This error was in no way the fault of Andrew Gallacher and the guys at AG Motorsport nor was it the fault of the guys at MDV Specialist Engineering

Andrew set everything including driveshaft plunge spot on to suit my 4x4 standard hubs ect that I supplied when he built the shell for me and MDV's guys set up all suspension and obviously can't see under driveshaft boots and rightly assumed the would be one of the first things you check when building a car like this which Andrew did so they are not to blame

The problem lies with me changing mid build from the standard suspension set up to the wide track wrc set up and not realising the consequences with the driveshafts so I only have myself to blame and luckily no harm done other than lost time and 1 knackered tripoid joint



Anyway onto sorting the problem

I can not afford full custom machined 300m shafts right now so the next best thing and perfectly acceptable thing is to get 4 new shafts cut them all to set sizes so I can make 2 new shafts that only need to be joined in 1 place

So today's mock up shaft kit


Secure 2 halfs of shafts to the L section and slide to desired length, mark up and tac weld and send away for new shafts to be welded to this length

So all marked up


A few marks to remember what's were if I need to undo on the bench after


Bare in mind this blanks shaft is already 20mm longer than what I had in there that popped out and I've separated it 28mm so the new ones once welded need to be 48mm longer than what I had in there!

But at the new length under full droop


Nice engagement in the cup

And full compression


No chance of them popping out ever again,

That will be sent off to CPS Drivelink to be friction welded and I should have them back in about a week

Caddyshack

I would add 2 jubilee clips each side or they will spin on full boost lol

No wonder they popped before. Nice job fixing it though, as always

M K

iTrader: (9)

It was a terrible oversight and could of been costly but this is all a learning curve for me

M K

iTrader: (9)

Thanks to Andrew G, Scott & Tommy at FMS to telling me how to check the plunge and mock up the length needed like I have

All good knowledge

Caddyshack

We live n learn. I have done similar. Manufacturers spend millions working this stuff out.

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

Do you need to check what they are like on full lock too, or dont they move much through steering?

bit of a ball ache marc and more money, but once again you are on it

M K

iTrader: (9)

They don't move through steering mate as its only the outer cv joint that moves around the cage

M K

iTrader: (9)

Drive shaft mock up all welded up and sent to cps drivelink with 2 new bare shafts so the can friction weld them together and send them back, hopefully in around a weeks time,