Mk6 JWRC fiesta cosworth
#2001
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
Sorry mate i missed that 1
Yeah it is definitely 2 different pairs, Andrew supplied these and they were both new pairs but maybe he already had a new set laying around from another build supplied by someone else or something, i am not too fussed as they are mounted front and rear so as long as they are matching pairs im happy, can't warrant another £80 just to have exact ones lol
Yeah it is definitely 2 different pairs, Andrew supplied these and they were both new pairs but maybe he already had a new set laying around from another build supplied by someone else or something, i am not too fussed as they are mounted front and rear so as long as they are matching pairs im happy, can't warrant another £80 just to have exact ones lol
It's a shame you've fitted them, as I would have quite liked some measurements off them Does look ace built up though
#2002
Cheers mate
Re fitted the rad and cooler tonight to see how big i need to machine up some spacers to lower the cooler as if it is fully bolted up it touches the bonnet so i need to drop it approx 25mm, the only pain with that is the inlet to cooler pipe is then gonna be well out of line so at a later date the cooler will need cutting that side and pointing up a bit before being re welded
Re fitted the rad and cooler tonight to see how big i need to machine up some spacers to lower the cooler as if it is fully bolted up it touches the bonnet so i need to drop it approx 25mm, the only pain with that is the inlet to cooler pipe is then gonna be well out of line so at a later date the cooler will need cutting that side and pointing up a bit before being re welded
#2003
Machined some small alloy spacers to lower the intercooler mounting
That drops it enough to clear the bonnet, so will just need to send the cooler for modding at a later date when engine is eventually in and i know the correct angle the outlet pipe needs to be.
Sorry for the poor quality photo, the iphone does not like the strip lights in the background
That drops it enough to clear the bonnet, so will just need to send the cooler for modding at a later date when engine is eventually in and i know the correct angle the outlet pipe needs to be.
Sorry for the poor quality photo, the iphone does not like the strip lights in the background
Last edited by M K; 09-12-2011 at 07:48 AM.
#2004
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
Car look's awsome Mark
Will you be rubber mounting the rad/intercoolers aswell ?
Just thought they might crack prematurly from vibrations
you could machine 5mm of each end and have a disc of rubber top and bottom
Will you be rubber mounting the rad/intercoolers aswell ?
Just thought they might crack prematurly from vibrations
you could machine 5mm of each end and have a disc of rubber top and bottom
#2006
10K+ Poster!!
Looks great Marc. I'll second the rubber mountings as I removed one the other day that had cracked around all the mounts.
Also there is a guy on the Audi forum I use that has a golf with a spaceframed front and apparently he now can't use it on the road due to some law. I'd imagine you can get a test done but would be a mission to have sva'd I'd imagine.
I'll dig out the link if you want
Also there is a guy on the Audi forum I use that has a golf with a spaceframed front and apparently he now can't use it on the road due to some law. I'd imagine you can get a test done but would be a mission to have sva'd I'd imagine.
I'll dig out the link if you want
Last edited by JonnyBravo; 09-12-2011 at 08:58 AM.
#2008
Looks great Marc. I'll second the rubber mountings as I removed one the other day that had cracked around all the mounts.
Also there is a guy on the Audi forum I use that has a golf with a spaceframed front and apparently he now can't use it on the road due to some law. I'd imagine you can get a test done but would be a mission to have sva'd I'd imagine.
I'll dig out the link if you want
Also there is a guy on the Audi forum I use that has a golf with a spaceframed front and apparently he now can't use it on the road due to some law. I'd imagine you can get a test done but would be a mission to have sva'd I'd imagine.
I'll dig out the link if you want
Also made up the other fuel line between the pumps today, not over the moon with it to be honest as the braided teflon doesn't flex enough so i will do the rest of the car in convoluted stuff from thinkauto as i used on my old car
#2009
Advanced PassionFord User
Christ on a bike Marc that is one epic build. I thought the XR2 was impressive but this is something else. By the way most of the old XR is shared amongst some friends of mine. The shell is running and turbo'd again, the fuel system is in another XR2 Foc rs powered and the management is in an S2.
Keep up the awsome work pal
Keep up the awsome work pal
#2014
PassionFord Post Troll
I had the same conversation with pro alloy with my intercooler , the outcome was that the mounts for the pro alloy intercoolers were that heavy duty that you are able to mount them solid to the chassis. my cooler is mounted solid. ;o)
#2015
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
I was'nt thinking of the area arount the mounts Simon
i was thinking of the area where the cores meet the side tanks on the cooler/radiator (i would of thought that they were the weakest part ?)
i would think that this car will be running hard suspension / low pro tyres and will driven like it's stolen
and most components would be shaken to bit's
All only my opinion of course
#2016
PassionFord Post Troll
I was'nt thinking of the area arount the mounts Simon
i was thinking of the area where the cores meet the side tanks on the cooler/radiator (i would of thought that they were the weakest part ?)
i would think that this car will be running hard suspension / low pro tyres and will driven like it's stolen
and most components would be shaken to bit's
All only my opinion of course
i was thinking of the area where the cores meet the side tanks on the cooler/radiator (i would of thought that they were the weakest part ?)
i would think that this car will be running hard suspension / low pro tyres and will driven like it's stolen
and most components would be shaken to bit's
All only my opinion of course
#2017
Cheers for the comments guys
I think i have some rubber mounting bobbins so may use those as suggested just to be safe,
Got the car on it's wheels the other day to check a few things, had to jack it up and get it off the stand first though lol
A few pics of the car sat on it's own wheels and suspension for a change
Hopefully have the rear diff all built up in the next week or so and the rears brakes all fully fitted as i have just purchased a used rear ap set up
More updates soon
I think i have some rubber mounting bobbins so may use those as suggested just to be safe,
Got the car on it's wheels the other day to check a few things, had to jack it up and get it off the stand first though lol
A few pics of the car sat on it's own wheels and suspension for a change
Hopefully have the rear diff all built up in the next week or so and the rears brakes all fully fitted as i have just purchased a used rear ap set up
More updates soon
#2019
PassionFord Post Whore!!
such a cool car
something you probably already know but thought id mention.
you can get boots for the rose joints to keep them clean, and also washers with rubber surrounds that also cover the joints but dont really seal them.
might be worth trying some just to keep it clean/grit free
something you probably already know but thought id mention.
you can get boots for the rose joints to keep them clean, and also washers with rubber surrounds that also cover the joints but dont really seal them.
might be worth trying some just to keep it clean/grit free
#2022
Cheers Simon
Yeah i have seen the boots and i will buy and fit them last thing before the car is finally set up mate, there quite expensive for a bit of rubber so didn't want to spend out just yet as i may split or damage them when i keep removing stuff
Around the middle to end of next year would be good, would like to catch ford fair maybe if im lucky and my work stays steady
Cheers mate, it's looked like a load of parts for so long it's nice to see a car coming together finally
such a cool car
something you probably already know but thought id mention.
you can get boots for the rose joints to keep them clean, and also washers with rubber surrounds that also cover the joints but dont really seal them.
might be worth trying some just to keep it clean/grit free
something you probably already know but thought id mention.
you can get boots for the rose joints to keep them clean, and also washers with rubber surrounds that also cover the joints but dont really seal them.
might be worth trying some just to keep it clean/grit free
Around the middle to end of next year would be good, would like to catch ford fair maybe if im lucky and my work stays steady
Cheers mate, it's looked like a load of parts for so long it's nice to see a car coming together finally
#2032
No Massive updates lately as i had a few set backs, mainly the rear brake set up situation
First off i must say a quick thanks to Mark @ MT-MOTORSPORT who sorted me the brakes, very helpful guy with great parts and great prices to match, thanks mate
I purchased a 295mmx25mm ap 4 pot kit for the rear of the car
Was well happy with that but unknown to me it turns out that with the ag style steering arms i can't run a discs that small as the caliper fouls the steering arm no matter what you do and i didn't realize this
Had a quick measure up and spoke to Andrew and he confirms that he used a 330mm discs on the rear and positioned the caliper at 10 o'clock and that way it clears everything so unfortunately the brakes must be sold and i have to go for a 330mm rear set up, and i can't just buy new discs as the 5100 caliper is only for a 25.4mm discs with a 295 dia.
So anyone selling a 330mm kit let me know
Next up is a bit more lathe action,
I wanted to run the proper stud sleeves on the M14 wheel studs to give them the extra strength as per the grpa/wrc cars but after speaking to dewitts i found out the ones they sell are not threaded as the studs they supply have a shoulder so there sleeves i assume are heated up then slid over the shoulder then once cooled down they shrink tight,
As my studs are threaded all the way i made up some sleeves that were threaded with M14x1.5 instead so they can be screwed on and tightened using stilsons or similar
So ideally i needed some 18mm round bar as that is the diameter needed but i had some 19mm laying around so turned that down instead to save a few quid
Round bar in mild steel, ideally stainless would be better but the lathe struggle with stainless so i will get these plated when finished
Rough cut into 30mm lengths once the bar had been turned down to 18mm
Then drilled out to 12.5mm
Threaded to M14x1.5
And voila
Grpa/wrc wheel stud sleeves
I didn't worry about a nice perfect finish on them as they will get scraped etc every time the wheel is taken off and put on but i am happy with them and the total cost was about £10 and 5 hours of my own time making them, but that is just the rear set as the fronts are not done yet
Dummy fitted them to check all was ok
That's it for now
Thanks
Marc
First off i must say a quick thanks to Mark @ MT-MOTORSPORT who sorted me the brakes, very helpful guy with great parts and great prices to match, thanks mate
I purchased a 295mmx25mm ap 4 pot kit for the rear of the car
Was well happy with that but unknown to me it turns out that with the ag style steering arms i can't run a discs that small as the caliper fouls the steering arm no matter what you do and i didn't realize this
Had a quick measure up and spoke to Andrew and he confirms that he used a 330mm discs on the rear and positioned the caliper at 10 o'clock and that way it clears everything so unfortunately the brakes must be sold and i have to go for a 330mm rear set up, and i can't just buy new discs as the 5100 caliper is only for a 25.4mm discs with a 295 dia.
So anyone selling a 330mm kit let me know
Next up is a bit more lathe action,
I wanted to run the proper stud sleeves on the M14 wheel studs to give them the extra strength as per the grpa/wrc cars but after speaking to dewitts i found out the ones they sell are not threaded as the studs they supply have a shoulder so there sleeves i assume are heated up then slid over the shoulder then once cooled down they shrink tight,
As my studs are threaded all the way i made up some sleeves that were threaded with M14x1.5 instead so they can be screwed on and tightened using stilsons or similar
So ideally i needed some 18mm round bar as that is the diameter needed but i had some 19mm laying around so turned that down instead to save a few quid
Round bar in mild steel, ideally stainless would be better but the lathe struggle with stainless so i will get these plated when finished
Rough cut into 30mm lengths once the bar had been turned down to 18mm
Then drilled out to 12.5mm
Threaded to M14x1.5
And voila
Grpa/wrc wheel stud sleeves
I didn't worry about a nice perfect finish on them as they will get scraped etc every time the wheel is taken off and put on but i am happy with them and the total cost was about £10 and 5 hours of my own time making them, but that is just the rear set as the fronts are not done yet
Dummy fitted them to check all was ok
That's it for now
Thanks
Marc
#2036
Then get one mate, about £300 will do you what i have probably and it is small enough to put away and get out when you need to use it, it is only about 700mm long by 300mm tall so takes up no room, i would like to out mine for a bigger gap bed lathe so i could turn brake bells and bigger parts but i just don't have the room
Cheers fella
Thanks mate, the end is kind of in sight with this now so it's the best part of the build
Cheers fella
Thanks mate, the end is kind of in sight with this now so it's the best part of the build