Mk6 JWRC fiesta cosworth
what colour it going
19-08-2010, 10:53 PM
#802
10K+ Poster!!
Looks bloody mental ! love it.
As for the surface rust I'd just get some wire wheels on a drill, its hardly that bad but needs dealign with sooner than later.
I had my shell dipped but not at surface processing, mine needed it though, yours most certainly doesn't.
As for the surface rust I'd just get some wire wheels on a drill, its hardly that bad but needs dealign with sooner than later.
I had my shell dipped but not at surface processing, mine needed it though, yours most certainly doesn't.
19-08-2010, 11:17 PM
#804
im tempted to buy a powder coated bolt in for mine after doing richies
but i will not .
19-08-2010, 11:30 PM
#805
tell him to stop fookin about and just get it done, mine was done easy enough.
the etch primer will do exactly what its supposed to do, eat through and prime the bare metal before you prime it for paint.
I etched mine at home with no real prep other than a light rubbing down.
24-08-2010, 11:54 AM
#813
PassionFord Post Troll
04-09-2010, 05:05 PM
#816
yes i admit the propshaft smacked me in the face when laying under the car taking it off and caused a small spillage of blood 
although the fooker would not shift with a pry bar but soon as i let it go thinking it have to try something else....WHACK..straight in the boat race
Not really any updates on the car that are exciting but i have still been working on it every chance i get,
everything is off or out the car now so its back to a bare shell and its on the dolly's so i can push it about, got to make up proper custom brackets still for the dolly's and spit but i need a fitting for my welder now i have a proper gas bottle as old fitting is push on and new one is push lock hardline type,
I have been trying to get my panel gaps as good as i can before the car goes for paint etc as if any modding needs to be done to the kit and panels i want it done now so when it finally goes for the outside to be painted i know its gonna line up good, BUT.............
the rear quarter panels on the car are the main problem! i have lined up the rear bumper, back end of rear quarters, lights and boot lid and although its not 100% due to the fact there motorsport panels and no where near a perfect fit, i am happy with it and its built to be driven not to be polished so it will do. But the front half of the rear quarter panel where it goes into the door shut is miles out on the drivers side and a bit out on the passenger side so the only way round it to get good panel gaps back between the door and rear 1/4 is to weld in a door quarter panel into the door shut section but only go back 6" from the door shut with it cut it straight down this point and throw the rest away, then cut my kevlar panel to line up with it, then weld a tab to the new quarter piece so i can butt the 2 panels up together and bond them then filler and hey presto its a pukka fit, just a shame the quarters were cut too far back before as its Ł200 for 2 new ones that im only gonna use a small bit of
heres a diagram of what i mean
weld on new quarter panel and cut along red line as shown here
cut kevlar panel here
then weld a metal tab to the back of the metal quarter part so i can sit both parts flush and rivet/bond then down before a skim of filler so all looks perfect
sounds like more work than it actually is lol
here is the panels gaps on the boot etc and im happy with them as if i go too mad and something needs replacing il have do do it all again so want a basic fit and cant be too fussy
the front of the car lines up ok, bumper and wings are perfect but door shuts to wings and bonnet lines are not 100% but im happy with it
thats about it for the car updates,
ENGINE UPDATES.....
the cylinder head is fully done but not fully built up, i am waiting for some fms cams as they are not ready yet and im not going to fit the lifters yet as they will be soaked in oil before fitting and will just leak everywhere if fitted now, so obviosly cams and verniers not fitted yet,
All new exhaust and inlet manifold studs fitted, ported and polished, guides checked and valves re seated and lapped in, new double valve springs with modded platforms, new tensioner and bolt, just awaiting fms cams and which are having the verniers fitted then the head is all done and ready bar water senosr and thermo housing to be fitted,
rocker cover with wrc cam sensor fitted and oil breather port blocked off
And finally tommy has my cracked 200 block and although he personally would not use one thats cracked he said they can be salvaged so he is going to die grind right down where the cracks are, which is both sides of 2 stud holes, the get it properly cast welded and filled then deck the block and long stud it so the stud now pulls from the bottom of the block and all the welded part has to do is stop the water from coming back through, so pics of that when its done
although the fooker would not shift with a pry bar but soon as i let it go thinking it have to try something else....WHACK..straight in the boat race
Not really any updates on the car that are exciting but i have still been working on it every chance i get,
everything is off or out the car now so its back to a bare shell and its on the dolly's so i can push it about, got to make up proper custom brackets still for the dolly's and spit but i need a fitting for my welder now i have a proper gas bottle as old fitting is push on and new one is push lock hardline type,
I have been trying to get my panel gaps as good as i can before the car goes for paint etc as if any modding needs to be done to the kit and panels i want it done now so when it finally goes for the outside to be painted i know its gonna line up good, BUT.............
the rear quarter panels on the car are the main problem! i have lined up the rear bumper, back end of rear quarters, lights and boot lid and although its not 100% due to the fact there motorsport panels and no where near a perfect fit, i am happy with it and its built to be driven not to be polished so it will do. But the front half of the rear quarter panel where it goes into the door shut is miles out on the drivers side and a bit out on the passenger side so the only way round it to get good panel gaps back between the door and rear 1/4 is to weld in a door quarter panel into the door shut section but only go back 6" from the door shut with it cut it straight down this point and throw the rest away, then cut my kevlar panel to line up with it, then weld a tab to the new quarter piece so i can butt the 2 panels up together and bond them then filler and hey presto its a pukka fit, just a shame the quarters were cut too far back before as its Ł200 for 2 new ones that im only gonna use a small bit of
heres a diagram of what i mean
weld on new quarter panel and cut along red line as shown here
cut kevlar panel here
then weld a metal tab to the back of the metal quarter part so i can sit both parts flush and rivet/bond then down before a skim of filler so all looks perfect
sounds like more work than it actually is lol
here is the panels gaps on the boot etc and im happy with them as if i go too mad and something needs replacing il have do do it all again so want a basic fit and cant be too fussy
the front of the car lines up ok, bumper and wings are perfect but door shuts to wings and bonnet lines are not 100% but im happy with it
thats about it for the car updates,
ENGINE UPDATES.....
the cylinder head is fully done but not fully built up, i am waiting for some fms cams as they are not ready yet and im not going to fit the lifters yet as they will be soaked in oil before fitting and will just leak everywhere if fitted now, so obviosly cams and verniers not fitted yet,
All new exhaust and inlet manifold studs fitted, ported and polished, guides checked and valves re seated and lapped in, new double valve springs with modded platforms, new tensioner and bolt, just awaiting fms cams and which are having the verniers fitted then the head is all done and ready bar water senosr and thermo housing to be fitted,
rocker cover with wrc cam sensor fitted and oil breather port blocked off
And finally tommy has my cracked 200 block and although he personally would not use one thats cracked he said they can be salvaged so he is going to die grind right down where the cracks are, which is both sides of 2 stud holes, the get it properly cast welded and filled then deck the block and long stud it so the stud now pulls from the bottom of the block and all the welded part has to do is stop the water from coming back through, so pics of that when its done
Last edited by M K; 04-09-2010 at 05:08 PM.
05-09-2010, 09:54 PM
#819
the breakers yards round here want Ł125+ vat per quarter panel and i asked 3 different yards and were all about that price so unless i find someone privately breaking one which i cant at the mo then il have to buy new at a cost of Ł95 plus vat but at least its ready to weld straight on,
05-09-2010, 10:12 PM
#820
Advanced PassionFord User
hi mark , cant you get the carbon door edges made to suit the rear quarter panels ? as i would save a load of hassle.
if not i will keep an eye out for you
cheers paul
if not i will keep an eye out for you
cheers paul
05-09-2010, 10:22 PM
#821
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
Hi there would you mind posting up some close up's of your ports as im trying to do mine myself and would 'nt mind seeing one thats been done professionaly
Averege throat size aswell if you wouldnt mind,,,Sorry if it seem's cheecky to ask
Averege throat size aswell if you wouldnt mind,,,Sorry if it seem's cheecky to ask
05-09-2010, 10:40 PM
#824
Advanced PassionFord User
05-09-2010, 11:09 PM
#826
paul - i wouldnt want to mod a carbon door as if i wanted another one it would be different and no one would want to make carbon doors that only suit my car so if they did it would cost a fortune,
Andy - i will get some pics tomorrow to show you what i mean as long as i finish welding the dolly mounts up as i cant move it at the mo
Andy - i will get some pics tomorrow to show you what i mean as long as i finish welding the dolly mounts up as i cant move it at the mo
05-09-2010, 11:36 PM
#827
Regular Contributor
Brilliant project, really like it! You gone all out with the parts and work, going to be so worth it when its done. I would love to do something like this one day. Keep the updates and pics coming in
06-09-2010, 01:56 PM
#828
had a couple of hours on it today as im going on to night work again for about 3 weeks starting tonight so i got the jig for the front dolly made up and then fully welded them both and gave them a coat of primer, these slide onto the main bar of the dolly's just like richie's done for his ka 
front one bolts to original chassis legs and the rear one bolts to the rear diff mounting which is tied into the cage so nice and sturdy
ANDY - here is the best pics i could get right now of the door gaps, the kevlar jwrc quarter is all lined up perfect at the boot end so it has to be fettled this end, and the door is fully forward and wing gaps are ok so one way or another the kevlar panel will have to be cut, would be good to not have to buy new quarters to do this,
Do you think if i cut the kevlar quarter to shorten it then put a tab on one half of it so the 2 peices could be butted up and bonded back together it would be ok? that way there is no need for new metal quarters to be welded on,
its hard to tell in the pics but from the middle of the door downwards the door is actually overlapping the quarter panel by about 5mm
front one bolts to original chassis legs and the rear one bolts to the rear diff mounting which is tied into the cage so nice and sturdy ANDY - here is the best pics i could get right now of the door gaps, the kevlar jwrc quarter is all lined up perfect at the boot end so it has to be fettled this end, and the door is fully forward and wing gaps are ok so one way or another the kevlar panel will have to be cut, would be good to not have to buy new quarters to do this,
Do you think if i cut the kevlar quarter to shorten it then put a tab on one half of it so the 2 peices could be butted up and bonded back together it would be ok? that way there is no need for new metal quarters to be welded on,
its hard to tell in the pics but from the middle of the door downwards the door is actually overlapping the quarter panel by about 5mm
Last edited by M K; 28-09-2010 at 09:01 AM.
06-09-2010, 04:33 PM
#829
hi marc there is no need to buy new 1/4 panels to get a good door gap ,if you cut down the front of your 1/4 panel about 3"s in from the door shut i would use 1mm slitting disc for that work out how much needs cutting off to get the gap right then cut that off then if you get some 2" thin ally strip hold the strip on the out side & screw it onto the panel with the screws on the ally side biting into the fibre glass then fibre glass on the inside two lay ups will be enough let it cure then remove the screws from out side over night is best ,if you done it right you should have a neat little joint on the outside .this is a pic of my front wing its not very clear but the little strip in the pic is what i used to hold wing together on out side & glassed on inside .
hope that makes sense .
hope that makes sense .
07-09-2010, 05:15 PM
#832
i get what you mean Andy
i will try and get round there tomorrow and cut the quarters then, i dont have a 1mm disc but have my dremel with reinforced cutting discs which is even better so i can use that
I have never used fiberglass etc so not sure about that part of it or even what product to use? any recommendations?
i will have to get some ally strip and some small self tapping screws but thats not a problem and if i can get a near good fit without spending the money on new quarters il be happy,
thanks mate
i will try and get round there tomorrow and cut the quarters then, i dont have a 1mm disc but have my dremel with reinforced cutting discs which is even better so i can use that
I have never used fiberglass etc so not sure about that part of it or even what product to use? any recommendations?
i will have to get some ally strip and some small self tapping screws but thats not a problem and if i can get a near good fit without spending the money on new quarters il be happy,
thanks mate
07-09-2010, 05:21 PM
#833
Also Andy what kind of compressor did you use to spray richie's ka? what cfm and what size tank did it have as im looking for one myself now, been looking at this one just for painting and cleaning up the metal etc before hand etc so i can do it all home,
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...twin-compresso
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...twin-compresso
07-09-2010, 06:01 PM
#834
this kit will do
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Davids-Fastgla...item45f35c860f
i will have a look at the comp i am using ,but the one your looking at looks like a very good start it should be ideal for what you want .
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Davids-Fastgla...item45f35c860f
i will have a look at the comp i am using ,but the one your looking at looks like a very good start it should be ideal for what you want .
Last edited by andy escos; 07-09-2010 at 06:02 PM.
07-09-2010, 08:24 PM
#836
marc , we know a firm up this way called air supply ,
steve , aka dakar on her works for them mate , before you pay machine mart prices drop him a pm and see what he can do
tell him i put you onto him ,but he got a good mate and bigger and more powerful motor'd comp for the same price as a lower spec'd machete mart jobbie
beef
steve , aka dakar on her works for them mate , before you pay machine mart prices drop him a pm and see what he can do
tell him i put you onto him ,but he got a good mate and bigger and more powerful motor'd comp for the same price as a lower spec'd machete mart jobbie
beef
08-09-2010, 05:05 PM
#838
Andy - i cut the quarters today as you suggested but didn't have any thin ally strip to screw them back together but its 90% done and much happier that there is actually a panel gap now lol,
i did the drivers side first, and this is how its ended up at the mo, note that this side the kevlar door shut is sitting over the original metal door shut part.
then here is the passenger side,
Note that this side the kevlar door shut sits under the original metal door shut part and so leaves a slightly bigger panel gap so i think il do the same on the drivers side?
or shall i leave them as they are? one over, one under as you wont ever know once a skim of filler/fibreglass has been put over the join?
opinions please
i did the drivers side first, and this is how its ended up at the mo, note that this side the kevlar door shut is sitting over the original metal door shut part.
then here is the passenger side,
Note that this side the kevlar door shut sits under the original metal door shut part and so leaves a slightly bigger panel gap so i think il do the same on the drivers side?
or shall i leave them as they are? one over, one under as you wont ever know once a skim of filler/fibreglass has been put over the join?
opinions please
Last edited by M K; 28-09-2010 at 09:03 AM.