V8 Sierra 2WD
17-05-2011, 05:45 PM
#171
Getting there with passenger side.
Had loads of trouble with the tungsten electrodes melting that turned out to be a bad batch of argon, that along with a mask that was not sensitive enough to low power welding and my inexperience with TIG has lead to some not very pretty welds
New batch of gas and better mask has helped.
Now I need to tidy the shed !
Mark
Had loads of trouble with the tungsten electrodes melting that turned out to be a bad batch of argon, that along with a mask that was not sensitive enough to low power welding and my inexperience with TIG has lead to some not very pretty welds
New batch of gas and better mask has helped.
Now I need to tidy the shed !
Mark
18-05-2011, 06:37 AM
#173
Virgin
Fellow V8 fan
Very impressive craftsmanship Mark. Here are a few projects I've built or sold parts for the building of.
Keep up the good work. All the best, James
Keep up the good work. All the best, James
18-05-2011, 08:00 PM
#177
Virgin
Not as busy as you might think. I've been doing this for several years now and I make install kits for both the pushrod and OHC engines. Except for drilling 2 holes, 302 pushrods are a bolt in. Minor hole enlarging of the firewall at the brake booster mount is required for the mod motors. We did the engine install on the black car in about 2 hrs!! As for fit, except for front to back length, the engine compartments of a Merkur, nee Sierra, is wider than the Mustangs these engines came out of!! It takes the better part of 8 hours to install headers on a 4.6 in a Mustang. It's about 30-45 min same engine in an XR. And 315RWHP from a breakers yard engine is pretty good going. It cost the equivelent of about 400 quid. And it weighs 40lbs LESS the the 2.3 4cyl it replaces!! I have a Camaro/Firebird T56 in mine. 1800 RPM @ 80 MPH and 26mpg. Best my 2.3 ever gave was 23MPG. Soon to have an 8.8" Independent rear diff from a Cobra/Lincoln Mk8 with 4.10 gears and a new front Kmember with a new front suspension design. This will allow (all at once) the V8 swap, big brakes, front mount sway bar, new suspension with 1.5" height reduction built in. You're gonna LOVE your car! Cheers!
05-06-2011, 05:37 PM
#178
I had to remove the ARB to get the drivers side header off for welding so made up a couple of spacers to give clearance between the ARB and gearbox.
Then I unpicked the drivers sider header one pipe at a time and welded all the joints, after that they were welded back to the header flange and the merge cone widget was welded between the 4 pipes. The welds arn't pretty but should be strong enough
Can't believe how much work these have been !
Then I unpicked the drivers sider header one pipe at a time and welded all the joints, after that they were welded back to the header flange and the merge cone widget was welded between the 4 pipes. The welds arn't pretty but should be strong enough
Can't believe how much work these have been !
09-06-2011, 05:30 PM
#180
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Keep at it !!!!!
Its worth the effort
Here are my specs.
3.64,T5,Front Coilovers 302 9.7-1, AFR 185s,comp cam 284hr,
comp cam 1.6 gold rockers,Parker Funnel Web converted to F.I.,35s,Equal length headers,3" Y to 4" out,Controlled by Megasquirt2 Extra
Its worth the effort
Here are my specs.
3.64,T5,Front Coilovers 302 9.7-1, AFR 185s,comp cam 284hr,
comp cam 1.6 gold rockers,Parker Funnel Web converted to F.I.,35s,Equal length headers,3" Y to 4" out,Controlled by Megasquirt2 Extra
09-06-2011, 06:21 PM
#182
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Its not too bad with my stock displacement and Megasquirt.
I had 3" Y to 3" in the beginning, But foud that 4" was much better drivablity and throttle response wise. If you can go 4" single, or 3" dual you wont be sorry
I had 3" Y to 3" in the beginning, But foud that 4" was much better drivablity and throttle response wise. If you can go 4" single, or 3" dual you wont be sorry
12-06-2011, 08:38 PM
#186
whizzisat114 - you are far too flattering, my welding is probably strong enough but not so neat up close
Beefy - you know you need a V8 in your life
I'm feeling a bit gutted today as I've just taken a deposit on my bike...
Cash injection needed to keep the Sierra moving forward and I now have to drive to work in a Fiat
Beefy - you know you need a V8 in your life
I'm feeling a bit gutted today as I've just taken a deposit on my bike...
Cash injection needed to keep the Sierra moving forward and I now have to drive to work in a Fiat
12-06-2011, 09:19 PM
#187
afpmsl
wounder on the xjr mate , being a big lad its a bike thats always appealed to me
yea , got in touch with a guy about an ls ,
just waiting to hear bk about shipping ...... but hes got turnkey ls1-2's with 6 speeders for las little as 5k usd
wonder what my yb's worth lol
wounder on the xjr mate , being a big lad its a bike thats always appealed to me
yea , got in touch with a guy about an ls ,
just waiting to hear bk about shipping ...... but hes got turnkey ls1-2's with 6 speeders for las little as 5k usd
wonder what my yb's worth lol
18-06-2011, 05:52 PM
#190
I'm sick of doing exhausts so have made a start on hydraulic clutch conversion.
0.75" master cylinder with a 6:1 pedal ratio as recommended by the release bearing manufacturer.
Slip on Mcleod release bearing.
Having a right fight trying to get the ARB back on
What's the best/easiest way of lining it all up ?
0.75" master cylinder with a 6:1 pedal ratio as recommended by the release bearing manufacturer.
Slip on Mcleod release bearing.
Having a right fight trying to get the ARB back on
What's the best/easiest way of lining it all up ?
18-06-2011, 07:25 PM
#191
18-06-2011, 07:34 PM
#192
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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I'm sick of doing exhausts so have made a start on hydraulic clutch conversion.
0.75" master cylinder with a 6:1 pedal ratio as recommended by the release bearing manufacturer.
Slip on Mcleod release bearing.
Having a right fight trying to get the ARB back on
What's the best/easiest way of lining it all up ?
0.75" master cylinder with a 6:1 pedal ratio as recommended by the release bearing manufacturer.
Slip on Mcleod release bearing.
Having a right fight trying to get the ARB back on
What's the best/easiest way of lining it all up ?
Mark, do yourself a favour and make the bolts on the master cylinder captive (weld the heads onto the support plate) As it makes it so much easier to change the master cyl if need be (to adjust the clutch bite point by changing sizes,and if you've used a wilwood cylinder!!
)Also agree on the ARB, put one side on and use a ratchet strap to get the other in.
18-06-2011, 09:10 PM
#193
Mark, do yourself a favour and make the bolts on the master cylinder captive (weld the heads onto the support plate) As it makes it so much easier to change the master cyl if need be (to adjust the clutch bite point by changing sizes,and if you've used a wilwood cylinder!! )
Also agree on the ARB, put one side on and use a ratchet strap to get the other in.
)Also agree on the ARB, put one side on and use a ratchet strap to get the other in.
Master cylinder is a Girling one and I'm hoping good old English workmanship will stop leaks
One area of concern is the throw out bearing, instructions were a bit dodgy so I Googled the Mcleod part number and found loads of people complaining of leaks
I will 'phone Real Steel in the week and make sure they have sold a few without complaint. It's a real bitch to change if fluid starts to leak and the engine and box have to come out to get to it!
18-07-2011, 04:35 PM
#198
BUT when I tried to bolt it all up for a trial fit it was a real struggle and the TCA would be straining the bush where it fits the front crossmember so I gave up
I will probably end up thinning the spacers down a fair bit and modifying the bellhousing to clear the ARB.
Engine and gearbox are out now and I've finished easing the transmision tunnel for clearance on the bellhousing.
I've also bought a spit and the next job is a complete strip down of the shell to bare metal the underside and fix any rot then find a painter to give it a respray.
27-08-2011, 10:36 PM
#200
Had the engine and box in and out a few more times to fettle the transmission tunnel with a hammer for clearance then started the strip down to sort the rust / bodywork.
All the wiring loom and sound insulation is now removed.
I made a couple of dollies to keep it mobile using some heavy duty angle and castors scrounged from work but all four wheels swivel at the moment and it's like a dodgy shopping trolly to move around !
All the wiring loom and sound insulation is now removed.
I made a couple of dollies to keep it mobile using some heavy duty angle and castors scrounged from work but all four wheels swivel at the moment and it's like a dodgy shopping trolly to move around !
