M K

iTrader: (9)

Glad it's all going well mate

Look forward to seeing it one day

Caddyshack

It will be a 205 MK special, it has more of your parts than you have in stock, or at least it will have.

I had a good drive out today, loving the new box

Caddyshack

1.5 eyes. They got 99% out and said the rest is just pigmentation from the rust, I can live with that. No more needles in my eye balls

Caddyshack

Yes, you should, Mark.

I should have listened to you the day I picked it up. As is often said on here "pick a tuner and follow what they say". It is bonkers now, I gave it about 80% today as a merc was up my arse and I was shocked at how I left him so far behind. I looked at the log after and I just caught 6000 rpm so there was more to go and it felt abnormal. I have yet to give it full bore gear after gear. It seems super bike quick to me but near 500bhp and 1000kg should I suppose.

Carbon fibre tailgate is about to be ordered, that is another 20kg gone

jonfoc

Surely there needs to be a go pro mounted and the car given a good thrashing.
Glad to hear it's going well and you're on the mend.

smiley

Good review I read with a smile on my face mines taking stupidly long but reading yours is keeping me interested glad your finally out enjoying it and what jon said you must own a go pro

Caddyshack

Funnily enough I have been planning a go pro

M K

iTrader: (9)

Wrong MK Toby

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

It's his eyes and his age you will have to forgive him LOL

800bhp

Good to hear its back up & running have you fitted the gearbox breathers?

Caddyshack

Oops, not the first time I have made that mistake, sorry

Caddyshack

Def the eyes, or at least one of them

Caddyshack

Oddly enough Bara said that Romain told him that you don't need them anymore??? But the fitted breathers anyway but not with lines to go to a tank, they just vent to atmosphere.

800bhp

But odd keep eye on the gearbox oil thoe would though if its vented to atmosphere you will run out of gearbox oil at some point. Whole point of the tanks is it chucks gearbox oil up into the tank when you get on it the goes back down into the gearbox when your driving easy.

jontysafe

Fantastic news you're getting to enjoy it again. It sounds like a whole heap of fun.

Drive safe.

Caddyshack

Thanks for the info, will keep an eye on that then

Caddyshack

Big Thanks to MK motorsport with all his help and advice getting the compression struts and adjustable tca on the car. I have had fantastic service and communication for this

Caddyshack

I fitted the compression struts and adjustable track control arms today. It is quite noisy over cats eyes. Need to get the geometry set now as only done by eye and a measure to keep things the same length each side

jonfoc

Pictures please Toby, we need pictures!

Caddyshack

Will do some tomorrow

Caddyshack

Didn't get round to pics.

I have found that the drivers side driveshaft on the front is at quite an extreme angle so that when you go over a big bump you can hear the drive shaft rub or vibrate in the cup or at the cv joint.

When the car is on the ground the driveshaft is pointing upwards. I don't think the xr4x4 longer shafts would help as the angle from output cup to hub would still be the same. I can raise the ride height of the car but I don't think it would look right if I go a lot higher. Any thoughts chaps?

The pin angle is leant right over on the track control arm so I am going to add some positive camber at the top mount to bring the pin back in to line.

GEARBOX, the close ratio makes the car so much nicer I always found the std Cossie ratios very long which felt like the car dropped out of the power from one gear to the next. Now I have std 1st and then 2nd, 3rd and 4th are really close to each other and it just keeps on the boil and the 5th is a bit more relaxed. The box does make a sort of straight cut whine on overrun but on a steady throttle it is quiet.

If you change up at around 4000 rpm you really make fast progress but without the massive lunges you get higher up the Rev range. Full bore it is bonkers.

rooos

... bad situation, mate!

can't say sh*t about the suspension set up. but cheapest try on that.
as last option...

down here cutting /elongation of half-shafts (never did, never saw, but...), it's told it's a quite common operation on modified/swapped cars.

it needs a good lathe. shaft cut, male and female done with interference, and reassembled with hot female.
sometimes welded on the cut line, and sometimes bonified after welding (or other heat treatment, donno exactly).

this requires big balls to be done on brand new half shafts.
in your situation, i'd first try to make some kinda of bastard, assembling junk parts which matches your axle specification, (but can't tell this would be the cheapest route).

hope for you this won't be useful, 'cause it means you are in deep trouble with this one...

however, good job! even though no pics of it !
sad to hear it's getting disheartening.
keep us posted.

Caddyshack

Thanks. I have a great company that can make longer shafts. I won't give up ever, just need to find a way to sort it. I will raise the ride height for now

rooos

that's talking, man !
(let us see some pics of the beast, whenever you can )...
keep us posted...

Marc sierra

iTrader: (1)

Is it only the drivers side driveshaft that is at an extreme angle? Both driveshafts are the same length, so they should also be at the same angle.

Caddyshack

Yes same angle for both but only seems to rub on drivers side. I assumed this was due to the position of the output cup on passenger side having more room. I will reduce the camber on the top mount to release the bottom pin and the. Bring the ride height up about an inch. Then get it all laser aligned and see what I am working with.

Cossie engine and running gear in a 205 shell always needs a bit of problem solving, previous owners just lived with the vibration I guess. The good thing is that it will just keep getting better.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

My hat is off to you Toby there is a lot of people out there that would of just given up on this car but good on you for sticking at it

Caddyshack

Thanks Ian, it is a good hobby and I enjoy the building, fabrication and problem solving...it can get you down sometimes but I close the garage and come back to it another day.

Caddyshack

Exhaust needs a new hanger to get it square




Now with black stripes




Amber indicators in




Got a new old stock gear know and spoox supplied the correct pattern shift numbers in real carbon




Close up, window lifter switch panel is carbon too to match dash. Excuse mess, waiting for carpets




This is the shifter I made to bring the knob back in to correct place as gearbox is 25mmlonger




New key ring and carbon on lower dash with extra air vent to match roof vent.


Exhaust needs new rubber to bring it back straight




Now has the correct black stripes in the doors




Ambers in.

Caddyshack

Here you can see the extreme pin angle




This is before the impression strut was on




Crap pic but you can just make out angle of driveshaft with car on ground

smiley

Love this car 22 yrs ago my mate had a turbo tecnics 1.9 gti in black one of my favourite cars from memory was awesome for its time this mate what your building extreme epic and in a class of its own

Caddyshack

Thanks, my mate had a TT1.9 and wants to find one now.

My 2.016v grey 1.9 is probably as fast but not as dramatic

M K

iTrader: (9)

Good to see it coming together Toby

With them tca and driveshaft angles though you need to workaround it somehow especially the shafts as looking at them angles you will chew them up in no time

I can't find a good pic of mine and i am sat at work on my phone but here's a pic of mine from the front, on a full size PC screen you can probably see the driveshaft angles just about but I'm not sure



Mine are not ideal as they also incline when at rest and ideally you want them straight or even better at a slight downward slope, but after double checking mine don't lock up or bind etc although originally they were 55mm too short due to my wider track


With Your tca's I have seen a few billet items used with normal hubs and they all seem to be at a fully locked out angle and the tca needs more angle at the outer end, I know they are already angles but it seems not enough for the standard set up

Here is a pic of some custom tca's AG Motorsport made for my fiesta originally when I was using standard hubs and you can see the greater angle at the outer end creating a much nicer angle for the tca pin







Hope that helps or gives a little useful info

ajamesc

Mine has that same extreme pin angle as well. I asked about it and was told it's how they sit there can't be an issue as lots of sets have been sold. I can't really comment on mine yet as mine has no engine in it at the moment. Once it's up and running and the suspension set up and the roll bar fitted I'll see how it is. If it dose affect the way the parts move it will leave witness marks

Marc sierra

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, I wouldn't really like it if the ball joint was sitting at the end of its range. Of course it's sitting better when the car is on its wheels, but still.


BTW, increasing the length of the pin between the hub and the ball joint is a nice way of increasing the roll center height. You only need to match the length of the steering ball joints to it to prevent bumpsteer.

markk

iTrader: (2)

Wrong setup on that bottom arm.
You really need to use all the alloy components as they were not designed to work with cast iron hubs.

There are different alloy tcas that ford used with different end angles.

Caddyshack

Thanks Markk, Marc S, Mark K (MK) Whats with all the Marks? and Ajamesc for taking the time to reply, pics and explain. All makes sense. I have some adjustable top mounts being modded to take my Ford coilovers in to 205 top mounts and will just see how that frees things up with less camber and a bit of a ride height increase.

MK will be able to supply the billet hubs and uprights if needed and in the extreme he can mod one of his front cradles to be bespoke to my car so one way or another it will be solved. If I fix a problem I like the outcome to be an improvement to the car as well if I can...i.e. if it saves weight, makes it stronger or handle better then I am happy to keep going. At this rate though I am going to have a WRC car!

OR we could do a re-design of the bottom arm...I suspect it would need a tweak of the CAD software

ajamesc

Once mine is running and I've driven if hard as there's very little suspension movement anyway as it's quite hard. As long as the pin don't hit the arm causing it to limit movement I can't see it mattering. Mk is a very cleaver man and as he said he has sold a lot of these kits.

Caddyshack

At the moment it is binding and not allowing full droop but either way I need to solve the drive shaft at its limit of travel under normal use therefore I have 2 issues to solve but solve it we will.

My suspension is fairly compliant and I don't want to stiffen it up to hide an issue on my car and I want this to be very compliant for B road bashing.

If it comes to it the car can visit MK and I know he will find a solution.

I am thinking a small increase in ride height and better setup of the camber will solve a lot if not all of it. If that doesn't work we can alter the cradle or re-do the tca.

I can also swap to billet hubs

Mark texts me a lot and I know he will be very keen to help.

ajamesc

This is how mine sits jacked up. The pin is at a large angle but it's not bottomed out. I'll have to wait till the car is back together and driving till I can see what it's like. I sent mark a picture of it and he said that's how they sit and he has sold many sets with out issue so we will see.