Caddyshack

Yes, that is very true. I had the engine running on the Ramps and could look through the holes and see what the release was doing although I was convinced I was going to catch my hair in something and pull my head off!

Caddyshack

Lol, you probably looked like the rain man with calcs all over the wall.

Caddyshack

After seeing MK s (Marc's) lovely clean gearbox I thought I had better do the same whilst my box is off the car.

Caddyshack

Did a lot of the bulkhead in reflacta gold to help lower the cabin temps. Just got to use a pin and roller to reduce the creases although most is covered by turbo heat shield and engine etc.

Caddyshack

So does anyone know what or how this works on the ate master cylinder on a 4x4 and car?





The gold colour screw seems to be a seal to stop fluid coming out but I can't get it to go in with that odd shape thingy. The ball on the thingy seems to fit the cup on the gold coloured bung.





In this hole is something spring loaded and then you can see the ram below go back and forward.

Caddyshack

The pug 205 master cylinder and servo had too much pedal travel even with the master cylinder from a 405 so I am going to use the pressure pump from a 4x4 abs cossie but not use the abs pump block etc. The pressure pump with pressurise the system in the same way. From what I can work out the ate master has 3 outlets numbers 1,2, and 3; 1 and 3 are the same size and the 2 is bigger. I think 1and 3 might be fronts and the the 2 feeds the common pipe for the rear? I have adapted the 205 pedal box to accept the master from the cossie so I just need to work out if I can do away with the odd shaped "thingy" in the pic above and just use the bung or if it needs to do something.....I have a feeling it is only to do something on the abs but I would like to check as quite important!

The ate master is in two parts but one of the bolts wouldn't come out and the star drive rounded off so I tried an m10 welded to it and buzzed it with the impact gun...the weld held but the m10 snapped half way up, next up was a 19mm bolt welded on....that did the trick and it all came apart nicely with the impact gun. There was a lot of muck in there and some ally corrosion so I cleaned it all up.

M K

iTrader: (9)

If it was me I would just go pedal box with no servo at all to save all the hassle and then use decent master cylinder from AP or Tilton 76 series like I have

Your cracking on though and getting stuck in so I'm sure it won't be long before you have it all sorted out

ajamesc

Master cylinder is one of the things I have to wait to order along with my centre push bearing. Reyland knows his shit that's why I'll be ordering off him. If I give him my block to clutch fingers measurement he will supply a set up that will work as it should and not over push my expensive clutch cover and fuck it up

Caddyshack

People warned me off the pedal box as a road car or I would have done it already, there are 205 specific footwell ones already shaped. I have cars for track days, my car will do a drag strip or two and may go along as a back up on a track day but it is being built as a fun road car, I wonder if the pedal box would be too hard work on the road....how have you got on?

Competition car parts do the same as reyland but on basic measurements there is only 34mm on the measurements you mention ajc, that isn't enough.

ajamesc

I've no idea what my measurement will be till I take it. Once I have it I'll send him my nose cone and he will supply a bearing and master that suit my set up and won't over push my cover

Caddyshack

Are you going for skyline box? IF it is then the final figure is 35mm...but this depends on the mount at the gearbox end.

Richie.

iTrader: (5)

Where did you get the rear box from please Toby?

Caddyshack

Mark Shead had the whole thing done by a company in Rotherham I think. I had some alterations done recently and the fabricator thought it was titanium as the metal was do good and he loved the welds.

c20tbo

iTrader: (1)

Road cars without servo assist are shit......cracking project putting alot of time into it, just done my escos bulkhead in reflekt a gold, its a right mare to do without creasing

ajamesc

Wear did you get that stuff from mate plus dose it stick well? And what's the cost like

c20tbo

iTrader: (1)

Ebay, roughly £60 per 24"x 24", sticks very well but is a mare to put on without creases, i bought 2 and a roll and pretty much only used half on my escos, Reflekt a gold

Caddyshack

Exactly that, I bought from Merlin...it is hard to do but chop it in to 1ft square pieces and you cannot see the joins and the engine covers a lot. Sticks like sticky stuff to a stick

Caddyshack

Thanks, it is good to hear real xperiences and opinions

Caddyshack

This is the pedal box I made up, it is part 3mm steel, part 205 pedal box and the a bit of 2mm steel to mount the reyland master cylinder for the clutch




The horrible oval grommet will be replaced

The next bit is the 4x4 master with the pressure pump removed, the pressure pump will be on the inner wing and a bespoke loom will run the pressure pump. I bought another 4x4 master and was able to work out the bung and thingy problem. It is some sort of stop for the pedal

c20tbo

iTrader: (1)

Can the 4x4 servo unit be tested in any way, reason i ask i have a presumed dud unit from my escos (previous owner pedal solid), what normally goes wrong with them is it the pressure pump? which can be replaced easily? im trying to source a full new 100% working unit as once my engine is back in would be a right chew on to change after

Caddyshack

I don't know if the pressure pump would fail...if you look at the pump you can see the motor at the bottom, the plug is clearly marked + % - so very easy to run up the pump, just don't leave it running too long as you will not have any pressure switch to turn it off.

I doubt it is that.

Then if you look at my recent pics you will see the master cylinder with the gold plug out with the metal "thingy" it is my guess that this may be the problem.

I am no mechanic and I cannot be liable for any help I give but if you want to post me the pump and master cylinder I will strip it all and check what I can for you. I will bench test all mine soon so I am happy to do yours and I have learned a lot recently. I also have a complete spare which I can compare to that I will not be parting with. They do corrode inside with a furry white build up but it is easy to clear.

c20tbo

iTrader: (1)

Once home i'll strip it down, id still prefer to purchase a known 100% working unit as again to change once engine is in isnt something i want to do, i provisionally may have a complete unit from a breaker just waiting on a price, thanks for the help i'll keep an eye on your progress

Caddyshack

They are simple to strip, just take care with the gold bung as the bit inside is hard to re seat but nowt too hard.

Caddyshack

Padal box is now all bolted up and the master cylinder is on. My lovely bespoke loom turned up today which was built by Whzziat12 Dave and he did it in under a week, all marked up ready for fitment. Thanks Coley for putting us in touch! Clutch master is back in with the pipes all heat proofed. Kingsley Engineering are machining my mount to accept the 1000 series Tilton and Zircotec finally releived me of £830 for all of the ceramic treatment, this should all be back by 5th Sept. My clutch alignment tool arrived from AUS (Thanks to Coley again), I was shocked that it was plastic and not metal but it seems to work well and feels much more positive than my generic multi fit one. Once the machine work is back I hope to bolt it all back for the last time and re-fit the engine. I travel to Spoox motorsport in around 2 weeks to pick up my Carbo Fibre bonnet!

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Hi Toby wot day do you think you will go to sproox Motorsport . As if it's a Saturday we could meet up as it's only down the road from ware my Kay lives well amatter a fact Kay works in Enderby . Let me no mate

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

No worries Toby
glad it turned up and your happy with it
Any problems you've got my number
David

Caddyshack

I did think I would see how close it was to you, I can buy you lunch. I am not sure when it will be ready. I will let you know.

Toby

ossie cossie

Any updates?

Caddyshack

I have been in Portugal for 11 days but back now, I got back and all my zircotec stuff is here, the colour is not what I was expecting and I think it will not look good but we will see. I spent yesterday bolting stuff back in and then decided to replace the suspension on my grey 205 and found a few other jobs that needed doing so will spend more time on that today.

Mark Shead

What colour did you go for.

Mark

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Hope you had a good time on holiday . And good to here your back on the car

Caddyshack

Blue, I was set on black or red but changed to blue, I will see what it looks like and then make my mind up on what to do.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Looking great! This is going to be a fun fast road car. I have driven a couple of cars on the road with no servo's and tbh it isn't great and I wouldn't choose to do it to my own car.

Good luck!

Caddyshack

Thanks, if it isn't a nice road car then I have failed and will need to rebuild or build another.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Done a bit of measuring today when I was fitting my gearbox and thought id let you know in case you hadn't measured yet and I know you was having trouble with your input shaft fouling the crank hole


measurements going by my 200 block,


The gearbox input shaft stick out beyond block face can be NO more than 6.5mm or the end of the input shaft will be jamming against the inside of the crank shaft spigot hole

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for bringing this up me and Toby was talking about this about 6 weeks back about this size . The skyline shaft must only stick out the same as the MT75 gear box any more and it will do exactly wot you just said . So Toby check this as your gearbox is still out

Caddyshack

Thanks to Ian and Marc, I will put a straight edge across today and take a measurement. I will also nip up the clutch cover now that I have the alignment tool Ian recommended (looks exactly like Marc's) and see if the input shaft goes in nicely before I try again with the centre push (just waiting on the machine shop to finish the work they promised for 1st Sept.) I am getting itchy feet to finish now. I REALLY appreciate you both helping me out on this.


I want to get some miles on it, get the interior trimmed and then look to have the engine rebuilt and add one of the spanking new Borg Warners on there (800 bhp Thread says they come in 700 rpm earlier than they do now which is pretty early!)

M K

iTrader: (9)

The alignment tool I used is listed for a3.5v6 Nissan and is made of plastic but it was only £12 and next day delivery, worked perfect so can't complain

Caddyshack

Yeah, mine is plastic too and looks identical to the one in your pic. I am hoping this will solve my problem as I was using a generic one before and it had a fair amount of movement.

Caddyshack

I put a straight edge across the front of the BELLHOUSING and measured from there to the end of the input shaft and I have over 10mm protruding. I too am running a 200 block.


I will take pic as I wonder if you are measuring from a different place?


I do have 2 pieces of good news though 1) local engineering firm called and said he had done some of my machine work for the centre push and that he will finish the rest by 10:00 a.m. Sat (tomorrow)


2) I offered up the bellhousing to the block with the clutch cover and clutch plate in place using the new Nissan clutch alignment tool and it went straight on without problem so I def think my other alignment tool was causing me issues.