Spec change advice
#41
Advanced PassionFord User
Making a 600hp YB Rev past and still make power after 8k means the cam type and timing would mean you would loose more than you gain and the natural peak power is around 7 to 7:5k and on a 7670 the back pressure is fine.
My preference for power band and 520hp is ideally suited to the YB.
Mark
My preference for power band and 520hp is ideally suited to the YB.
Mark
I guess it depends on what the individuals goal is and what they want from their car.
Cheers Paul
#42
Advanced PassionFord User
Im considering changing spec ok my 2wd sapphire, its currently on a t34.48 with light blues, all the usual bits at this spec plus its a fresh long studded 200 block engine.
In all honesty its fine as it is but you always look for a bit more don’t you?
So what I wanted to ask of those who have gone further was did you think it was worth it and were you pleased with how it ended up.
My thoughts on options would be- get a higher spec t34 built , remap and bigger injectors or go for 500-550 with head/cams/inlet/different turbo/ect ect, which will obviously get much more involved and costly to do that though. Thanks
In all honesty its fine as it is but you always look for a bit more don’t you?
So what I wanted to ask of those who have gone further was did you think it was worth it and were you pleased with how it ended up.
My thoughts on options would be- get a higher spec t34 built , remap and bigger injectors or go for 500-550 with head/cams/inlet/different turbo/ect ect, which will obviously get much more involved and costly to do that though. Thanks
How much do you wanna change the spec by?
Cheers Paul
#43
Advanced PassionFord User
But he doesnt want a 600+ car ?
He hasnt even really indicated about 500+ ?
The bottom line is still the same.
If on a budget, the best thing he can do now for a quick/easy and effective upgrade is dump the old T34 an fit a modern turbocharger. There will be no trade offs anywhere and he will very easily be able to see improvements everywhere. The old T3's etc are just crap by modern standards.
As for no point in changing gear or revving to 6500, 7000 etc If the engine is still happily making power, then you certainly can, and further.
But as said before, for a good and very fast road car you can use every day, that low boost/torque will make for a much faster car than some laggy thing you need to rev the crap out of it.
I've had shit setups before myself, or cams that simply push powerbands upwards, and killing everything low down...and ultimately are slower all round because of it. But yea as Adam mentioned they might go from nothing to a shove in the seat all of a sudden if that's what he's into.
That doesnt make it fast. If anything it just makes it slower and less predictable all round even if a headline power figure might be the same or slightly higher.
But it's entirely up to everyone what route they choose. But when the turbo is such a critical part, and an area where huge improvements in efficiency have been made in recent years....you cannot overlook that as a first thing to change.
He hasnt even really indicated about 500+ ?
The bottom line is still the same.
If on a budget, the best thing he can do now for a quick/easy and effective upgrade is dump the old T34 an fit a modern turbocharger. There will be no trade offs anywhere and he will very easily be able to see improvements everywhere. The old T3's etc are just crap by modern standards.
As for no point in changing gear or revving to 6500, 7000 etc If the engine is still happily making power, then you certainly can, and further.
But as said before, for a good and very fast road car you can use every day, that low boost/torque will make for a much faster car than some laggy thing you need to rev the crap out of it.
I've had shit setups before myself, or cams that simply push powerbands upwards, and killing everything low down...and ultimately are slower all round because of it. But yea as Adam mentioned they might go from nothing to a shove in the seat all of a sudden if that's what he's into.
That doesnt make it fast. If anything it just makes it slower and less predictable all round even if a headline power figure might be the same or slightly higher.
But it's entirely up to everyone what route they choose. But when the turbo is such a critical part, and an area where huge improvements in efficiency have been made in recent years....you cannot overlook that as a first thing to change.
Cheers Paul
#44
Advanced PassionFord User
My sisters car has a modern turbo set up and a modern twin plate paddle shift gearbox. She has a 2017 Golf R. It is a quick car no doubt about it it just go’s. You don’t really feel boost it’s just a continuous pull. The gearbox is just bang bang up through the gears even in full auto it’s a fast normal road car. By no means a wow that’s a fast car type of ride though. In fact to be honest after a week I’d be bored of it if it was mine
But your bang on, there’s no wow factor to the way they accelerate, it is a little boring.
I think that’s great for everyday sitting in traffic stuff but not for a fun, weekend driver, big hp car
Cheers Paul
#45
On average, a decent BB turbo will be around Ł1500 or so. No more than Ł2k.
When you have only one to buy, and you run a small engine where a good turbo will make a huge difference, it is worth spending the money.
And when you can get them to hold to your existing manifold etc it's a no brainer really.
Yes you could do headwork ( if not done already ), better cams ( not ancient profiles ) and I'd say a good ecu would have value too.
But all of those could be deemed second place to what a good turbo swap can offer to what he already has. And then later he could explore other options should the need arise.
#46
I know what you mean, I love the golf r’s and they drive nice and are quite nippy.
But your bang on, there’s no wow factor to the way they accelerate, it is a little boring.
I think that’s great for everyday sitting in traffic stuff but not for a fun, weekend driver, big hp car
Cheers Paul
But your bang on, there’s no wow factor to the way they accelerate, it is a little boring.
I think that’s great for everyday sitting in traffic stuff but not for a fun, weekend driver, big hp car
Cheers Paul
not too shabby for a pretty standard everyday mundane car and will put many others to shame.
Of course a basic Golf R isnt really a fun car anymore, nor a big hp car ( at only 300hp or so ). They're a heavyweight really, kerb weight listed as around 1525kg. Comfy daily driver trying to be sporty.
But so many modern cars are big heavyweights now.
That's some 300+kg heavier than a basic 2wd Cossie ! ( listed online as 1206kg, 4wd a bit heavier )
That's a full 3 heavy passenger difference.
But even online stats tell a story. They claim the golf as 292hp or thereabouts...with max torque at 1800rpm ! that's super fast spool and no doubt a simple remap and maybe some other work will take that close to 400hp.
#47
Regular Contributor
So after reading the comments in this thread I'm thinking what turbo would I buy for my car and what would people recommend and WHY ?
2wd car, running a 200 block pocketed pistons but not long studded, mildly ported and polished head with bd15 inlet standard exhaust. Modern aftermarket management, hart plenum and top feed cooler.
It's currently on a T34/63 and goes quit well but could do with being a bit quicker on to boost and a bit more low down torque
It's a road car and I'm not interested in chasing numbers just better drive ability
So what modern turbo would I fit and why ?
2wd car, running a 200 block pocketed pistons but not long studded, mildly ported and polished head with bd15 inlet standard exhaust. Modern aftermarket management, hart plenum and top feed cooler.
It's currently on a T34/63 and goes quit well but could do with being a bit quicker on to boost and a bit more low down torque
It's a road car and I'm not interested in chasing numbers just better drive ability
So what modern turbo would I fit and why ?
#48
Advanced PassionFord User
I’d say going off what you said and you didn’t mention budget I’d prob go for an efr 7064 and manifold, get that mapped and you’ll be around the 450 hp mark with a quick spooling car that drives nice (you’ll benifit with a new exh manifold to go with it too)
(Thought I’d get in there quick before everyone else ha ha)
If your on a budget I’d prob go with a small ish gt30, prob similar hp, but less torque and not as quick spooling
Cheers Paul
(Thought I’d get in there quick before everyone else ha ha)
If your on a budget I’d prob go with a small ish gt30, prob similar hp, but less torque and not as quick spooling
Cheers Paul
Last edited by turbotrev; 11-07-2018 at 09:08 AM.
#49
10K+ Poster!!
For 7064 you really do need a decent sized down pipe and exhaust as the standard system is too restrictive for over 400, you can do 500 / 520 on a standard 200 engine with decent head gasket and a REALLY good intercooler along with suitable injectors.
I will probably be selling my 7064 if it cannot keep up with my Stroker which we kind of expect it will not.
If I was looking for 500 ish I would long stud.
I know where there is a silly cheap Plug n Play complete long studded engine for Ł7500 right now with EVERYTHING including mapped ECU. 500+ ready to install in a weekend and run. Properly built too.
I will probably be selling my 7064 if it cannot keep up with my Stroker which we kind of expect it will not.
If I was looking for 500 ish I would long stud.
I know where there is a silly cheap Plug n Play complete long studded engine for Ł7500 right now with EVERYTHING including mapped ECU. 500+ ready to install in a weekend and run. Properly built too.
#50
PassionFord Post Troll
If your wanting quick spool then it’s a no brainier get an efr
#51
Regular Contributor
Has anyone had any experience with the new garrets or the owens development GDT turbos or is it still a case of the Borg efr seem to be market leaders when it comes to the yb engine.
#52
10K+ Poster!!
Mark put a post on here recently saying that the Garret would be his third option after EFR and one other.
#53
I wouldnt even consider a regular GT30 at all.
IMO if you must go for Garrett...something like this would be good.
And I'd be inclined to stick with larger turbine housings vs small.
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=GG2-2860-T3
Although it would necessitate an external w/g. But again power goals have to be taken into consideration.
The EFR's can easily be had with integral gates...so that simplifies fitment and reduces cost....as long as you can bolt them to your existing T3 flange.
Depending on overall power goals, something smaller than the 7064 might be better suited.
IMO if you must go for Garrett...something like this would be good.
And I'd be inclined to stick with larger turbine housings vs small.
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=GG2-2860-T3
Although it would necessitate an external w/g. But again power goals have to be taken into consideration.
The EFR's can easily be had with integral gates...so that simplifies fitment and reduces cost....as long as you can bolt them to your existing T3 flange.
Depending on overall power goals, something smaller than the 7064 might be better suited.
Last edited by stevieturbo; 11-07-2018 at 10:51 AM.
#54
10K+ Poster!!
I wouldnt even consider a regular GT30 at all.
IMO if you must go for Garrett...something like this would be good.
And I'd be inclined to stick with larger turbine housings vs small.
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=GG2-2860-T3
Although it would necessitate an external w/g. But again power goals have to be taken into consideration.
The EFR's can easily be had with integral gates...so that simplifies fitment and reduces cost....as long as you can bolt them to your existing T3 flange.
Depending on overall power goals, something smaller than the 7064 might be better suited.
IMO if you must go for Garrett...something like this would be good.
And I'd be inclined to stick with larger turbine housings vs small.
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=GG2-2860-T3
Although it would necessitate an external w/g. But again power goals have to be taken into consideration.
The EFR's can easily be had with integral gates...so that simplifies fitment and reduces cost....as long as you can bolt them to your existing T3 flange.
Depending on overall power goals, something smaller than the 7064 might be better suited.
#55
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Mark
#56
Advanced PassionFord User
#59
Advanced PassionFord User
#60
Equally there's nothing "wrong" with a T3...or nothing wrong with a T34...
Doesnt mean they cannot be improved upon, and if spending the money may as well get something better for the money. But yes if a GT30 fits your needs and budget by all means go for it. They're certainly not the worst out there
#61
Advanced PassionFord User
#63
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Im considering changing spec ok my 2wd sapphire, its currently on a t34.48 with light blues, all the usual bits at this spec plus its a fresh long studded 200 block engine.
In all honesty its fine as it is but you always look for a bit more don’t you?
So what I wanted to ask of those who have gone further was did you think it was worth it and were you pleased with how it ended up.
My thoughts on options would be- get a higher spec t34 built , remap and bigger injectors or go for 500-550 with head/cams/inlet/different turbo/ect ect, which will obviously get much more involved and costly to do that though. Thanks
In all honesty its fine as it is but you always look for a bit more don’t you?
So what I wanted to ask of those who have gone further was did you think it was worth it and were you pleased with how it ended up.
My thoughts on options would be- get a higher spec t34 built , remap and bigger injectors or go for 500-550 with head/cams/inlet/different turbo/ect ect, which will obviously get much more involved and costly to do that though. Thanks
gt30 route, better injectors, good set up/live map your gonna be in the high high 400 and shouldn't be mega expensive.
500 plus you might as well start again imo if you dont know the wear on your bottom end, so you could be taking the engine apart. Basicly this option if you gonna do it might as well do it properly, new bearing, rings possible pistons headwork. ect.
you can go efr route the additional cost is going to be the exhaust manifold, approx 1100-1200 just to swap the turbo. you will need convet the exhaust to vband and may need to mod the down pipe to reach the turbo unless the jig has changed.
The efr and gt30 new will properly be around the same cost so it's just the cost of the manifold.
EFR can be mapped on webber but id say L8 onwards.
Cheers Si.
#64
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
#66
cossie fan (unluckerly)
I thought my gt3076 set went like fuck lol really fast car compared to anything I came up against on the road personally. Old turbo now but a million times better than the t34 I had on it. But as said it’s all down to set up and tuners spec as the person I sold that turbo too was told that’s a turbo not suited to a yb engine lol.
It would need a different compressor housing and compressor wheel to work
It would need a different compressor housing and compressor wheel to work
Last edited by ajamesc; 17-07-2018 at 07:32 AM.
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