fozzy70

Hi all,
just changed head gasket on 2wd saph. Had coolant in number 2 cylinder. Started car and still running on 3/missing,took plugs out, coolant still dripping onto piston. Just need a bit of advice and possible cause. Going to take head off again this morning. Anything obvious i should be looking for.
Any help greatly appreciated,
cheers Steve

Caddyshack

I wonder if the block has a crack? Have you seen the cheap 205 bottom end for sale on here today? Might be worth grabbing it quick just in case and flog it on if not needed?

fozzy70

Thanks for the reply. Block looks ok, have stripped the head, going to get it crack tested. Usual corrosion around water ways but looks ok on the outside lol
Cheers
Steve

Ridgey

iTrader: (5)

I had a head that cracked through to the water jacket in the combustion chamber top.
Need to get it pressure tested.

Mad_Mat

Maybe i should put the price up

Mad_Mat

If its an old head and the coolant has not been changed regularly could have succumbed to corrosion and eventually head failure. As Ridgey says pressure test will tell.

turbotrev

Make sure sure you check the full length of the bores for hairlined cracks, see loads go like that

Cheers Paul

gcfcos

Crack test and skim whenever u do a head gasket job is always best practice matey. Hope u get it sorted mate

fozzy70

Thanks for your replies, stripped head this morning, off to be tested on monday. if it is cracked can it be repaired? or just bin it?, or a nice paperweight lol

Adam-M

Yes you can have your water ways tig welded I’ve had my water ways repaired due to mild corrosion

fozzy70

Been thinking about this most of today. forgive the ignorance but what would i need to change to replace my 2wd for a 4x4 head? I know 4x4 pistons are different, which raises compression?, By how much?. Thermostat housing different?, anything else i would need to change? I am thinking worst case if my head is cracked and cannot find a good 2wd one.

Cheers for all your help

Steve

Adam-M

Why don’t you just drop the head off at a good machine shop for repair and check condition of the valve guides while your at it?

fozzy70

If it Can be repaired I will have it done. U was going to have guides and seals done also, just not sure if it is 100% repairable yet��

Mad_Mat

X power engines are in essex. Could be a good place to get it checked

http://www.xpowerengines.com

Adam-M

Post it to ht Howard in slough

fozzy70

Thanks for the reply's guys, had head pressure checked, all good! phew, having a skim tomorrow. Have found a crack in bore number 2 as Caddyshack mentioned. What would be the best way to go with this? Liner?,New block?, Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. While its in bits i was thinking about bearings etc etc, should i replace or leave alone?
Cheers
Steev

Caddyshack

Can you liner a 205 block?

Adam-M

Yes you can liner a 205 but this may be more feesable...

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F292433148030

Defo worth getting your crank checked as that will answer your question about your bearings

Ridgey

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't be running much power on a 205 block on 0.5 overbore. Like the one for sale.

Adam-M

Must just be your luck I know of one running 460 that gets abused hard and block is holding up okay lol

20/20 vision

you can liner the block but its not really a good idea if you're planning a liner for a cracked bore and use the other three without a full 4 cylinder rebore to next size up

Caddyshack

Would a 2nd hand 200 block be better and sell on the 205

fozzy70

Cheers for all replys so far, appreciate it.

Right so this is where i am atm.
I am going to get engine out tomorrow eve. I have no idea if the pistons are std or o/size? If standard i was thinking of having a liner fitted then new rings. If its already been bored then i was thinking of another 205 block thats std and having bored to 0.5 if needed, depending on condition of bores etc. I think a 200 block plus parts etc etc will be too much. I have never ran more than 300bhp, its only 260ish atm so a 205 is more than adequate for me.
Any thoughts to that idea that doesn't involve a 200 block?

steve

fozzy70

Engine out, pistons are 1.00 o/size. Not really what i wanted to find, i would of preferred 0.5 o/size. If i get another block, bore it to 0.5, get new 0.5 pistons, will i have to have valve cut outs machined into pistons as mine is 2wd? or can i just put them in as is?

Steve

DAN400

iTrader: (3)

I'd get another block and new pistons if it were me , 1mm over size leaves the bore too thin and weak and prone to cracking imo

cossynut2

Why not try to get a block that is new or in good condition on standard bore size? You are assuming another block will need a rebore?
I run a low comp set up and have Mahle pistons with valve cut-outs.

Adam-M

Always better having cut outs as even on standard cams the valves can touch the pistons so if your heads been skimmed you’ll want an extra bit of clearance.

+1mm will be absolutely fine with 300bhp

fozzy70

thanks for your replys, I am looking for another 205 block. If i can find one with good std bores then all well and good, if not then i will go to 0.50 o/s. I have just got a full engine gasket set with group a gasket, will give the crank and bearings a good going over as all i wanted to do other night was check piston size. Anyone who has, or knows of a decent 205 block please let me know. I am willing to collect or if its too far away am happy to pay for shipping.
Thanks again for your replys
Steve

cossynut2

Gary at RSCosworth Breakers in Porchester has a 2wd 205 block for sale. Its on standard bore but may need a rebore to 0.50 0/S. £400 is the asking price.Tel 02392379000 or 07968005319. I have bought various bits off him before for my 2wd Saff.

fozzy70

cheers

fozzy70

Many thanks to all those who took the time to help me with my questions. I have got another block(arrived today), its on a std bore, i have measure it at 90.84. I plan on having it bored to 0.5 o/size, new pistons, new mains, big ends and small end bushes while its apart. Hopefully will be able to get it all done by mid april, so will get some use in the summer. Just another question with regards to running in. I have read conflicting articles, some say take it easy varying the revs for 1000miles, whilst others say take it easy for a few hundred, change oil then use as normal? any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Steve

cossynut2

Running in a newly built engine is one of those things that there will be various advice on what is best.
" When I ran my new engine in I restricted revs to no more than 3000 did'nt labour it up hills and it worked fine. Changed oil and filter after first 300 miles and again at 1000 miles.Even at just 3000 revs it was happy doing 85 to 90mph so not real slow.
No doubt there will be lots of others who will have there own ideas. Do what ever you feel comfortable with.

fozzy70

Many thanks
I have completely stripped the old engine this morning. Should have new pistons by tue, so i can get them off with block to be bored and cleaned. I have ordered new bearings and oil pump while its apart as dont wanna be replacing the oil pump if it fails in a few months lol.
Cheers for your advice, much appreciated

DAN400

iTrader: (3)

It doesn't take 1000miles to run in an engine imo
I ran my engine in on a standard mineral oil for 200/250 miles and even that was too many miles ,
just normal driving , boosting it now and again , obviously not revving the piss outa it , changed oil and then went straight onto the rollers and mapped , that was 5/6 years ago and engine has been perfect
As said everyone has there own ways of doing it ,but some folk take running in an engine to unnecessary extreme's the things they do lol

cossynut2

As I said everyone will have their own opinion of how to run an engine in, it did'nt take long to do 1000 miles and since running mine in the engine has done over 50,000 more miles. Never had a blown head gasket ( old school wire rung 200 block with group A head gasket) never uses oil and is still as strong as when it was re-built.

gcfcos

I was always taught to run in for 1000 miles from
The date I started my apprenticeship 21 years ago but it's been so many years that I've had to rebuild an engine due to always changing whole engines these days as cheaper/quicker that oil and tech may have moved on by now and not needed? If I was rebuilding an engine now I'd personally run in for 1000 miles
Still but I'm not an engine builder for a job so they may not. Can't do it any harm

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

fozzy70

Didn't pay anywhere near that for the block. Got a 205 block, 2322 stamped by dizzy, is newer than my old one by 6 months, slight wear but on a std bore, £120 delivered ��

cossynut2

Good on you, hope it all goes well with your engine rebuild and the running in.

fozzy70

Cheers buddy, will keep you posted