jonfoc

Right then let me start by saying I'm a novice and have no spraying equipment.

I've just got my shell back from MK Motorsports. It's currently being painted on the inside. I need to sort out the underside and I want to do it myself to keep the cost down. I'm going to wire wheel the rusty bits down. Please bear in mind this is only a track car.
What's good to use and in what sequence.
Thanks in advance

The Youth.

iTrader: (1)

good question I'm at the same point, going to get the underside of mine blasted


Steve

Bailes1992

When I did my KA I took it all back to bare metal, used Bilt Hamber Electrox on the bare metal before applying a 2pack Epoxy primer, Upol Gravitex and finishing with 2pack Epoxy primer, basecoat and laquer. I injected all the cavities with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 and gave the entire underside two very thin coats of Bilt Hamber Dynax UC.

Probably overkill but I sold the shell to a friend who built it up as a track car and it still is immaculate underneath 3 years on.

jonfoc

That sounds very impressive, do you need specialist spraying equipment to do it?

Bailes1992

The two pack products are nasty to use so I bought an airfed mask for spraying the two pack primer, basecoat and laquer. Everything else I used a standard respirator. I did all the work on a Gazebo which I sealed up as best as I could, fitted an extract fan to one wall putting a paper filter on it designed for spray booths. I made a vent in the opposite side and put a foam filter over it to try minimise dust.

You need a wax injection lance which is about Ł100 for the Dynax S50 cavity wax and a Schultz gun for the Dynax UC along with lots of Xylene to clean up afterwards.

And most importantly a bloody big compressor.

jonfoc

Thanks for the great and in-depth information however I was looking to do this on a budget. I was thinking something along the lines of wire wheeling to bare metal brush on seam sealer and then a few liberal coats of hammer right or something similar maybe P0R 15.

Bailes1992

Hammerite will chip if left unprotected, it's quite brittle and not flexible.

If I was a bit tight for money I think I would use Restoleum. It's very similar to Hammerite more flexible. I'd probably brush on some clear waxoyl afterwards.

I know Bilt Hamber do Dynax S50 cavity wax in 750ml cans with an injection lance built it. Might be a good shout to get your cavities properly protected.

jonfoc

Yeah I've got some dynax s50 and uc. I've also got acf50. I'll look into the bilt hammer stuff. Thanks again

Fartblood

Redneck waxoyl. Best performance, lowest price.

jonfoc

What the hell is redneck wax oil?

Fartblood

1/2" kg of paraffin wax flakes. They're very cheap, or you could take a cheese grater to some candles.

2 litres white spirit.

2 litres light oil.

Chuck the wax in the white spirit. Put it somewhere warm. Regularly shake or stir. Within a few days it should have dissolved and left you with a thick liquid gloop. Then add the oil. Mix thoroughly.

Pour it it in a pressure sprayer and spray it everywhere. Arches, seams, cavities, underside. The white spirit has a strong capillary action and will draw the mixture into every nook and cranny.

Do this in the warm weather, or park the car in a warm garage. Within a few days the white spirit will evaporate and leave a hardish layer of waxoyl that repels water like nothing else can. Its also self healing, and chips will soon repair themselves.

With any luck you'll be able to make it for free with bits you've got knocking about. Four litres comfortably does a whole car.

jonfoc

Bloody hell that sounds like it's got the potential to do what I need. I guess I'll still need to paint and seal the underside first and then cover it insome sort of gunk like what you have just told me about.

Fartblood

I did my Fusion when it was 3. Its now 11 and there's not a trace of rust on the body stricture or panels.

Bailes1992

Is it really worth it when 5 litres of clear waxoyl is Ł25?

jonfoc

It is cheap st that price. I've spent 3 times that on the other products

Fartblood

Real waxoyl is shite in comparison. You'll also make 20 or more litres for the same price if you're canny.

jonfoc

What I do need fellas is a good brush on or tube fed seam sealer to cover all the welds etc

jonfoc

Fartblood what would you class as a light oil.

Caddyshack

Use tiger seal on the welds, then something like por15 or a waxoyl finish. Shame you can't get a body shop to paint it with all the work that has gone in to it.

I used a stonechip type spray can, seems to have held up well.

jonfoc

Cheers Toby. I'm having a pro sprayer tart up the inside, I need to keep costs down as I've blown the budget on the shell. I can tackle the underside as it's not about the finish, it's about the protection.

jonfoc

I've used Por15 in it before mint. I think that might be the way forward. It was still on my hands 2 months after.

Tim Wharton

What ever stone chip you use make sure its fully dry and hardened up before you start adding coats of paint or you will get reactions (not good and looks shite)
Water based stone chip is good
Cheers Tim