smiley

Good shout will get the floor strengthened

Caddyshack

I think that is a good idea if you are going to drive it like that.


My car has a 20mm beam welded from left to right and that holds the diff hanger, this was fitted when the car was converted so hopefully there is a good bit of strength there and I don't drive it like a loony.

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

Didn't 3drRich also break his standard cover after fitting to his black 3 door but it didn't total it. I think he made up some steel brackets and he was away again with the standard cover.

Caddyshack

Am I your bitch for this recent post?

MT has supplied me bits next day delivery, he also helped me out once when I had the wrong hubs on my car, he got me the bits that I needed to sort the problem. He did that over a weekend and sent me pics etc. Spoke to him the other day, nice bloke to deal with.

Caddyshack

Yes, I remember that, he posted up pics.

I assume a supra doesn't use the back cover at all?

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

https://passionford.com/forum/general-car-related-discussion/480872-toyota-supra-diff.html?highlight=Supra+bracket

Here you go.......

Cosnada

iTrader: (2)

link don't work properly as on phone.

Mark V8

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone known a standard Cosworth diff cover to break ?


The stock one is only a cheapo casting, I'm assuming that as the stock diff is bolted directly to the beam (as opposed to being held in with a collection of brackets) it does not get the chance to move about and put additional loads on the cover.


There must be a LOT of force trying to twist the diff in the beam if you launch hard, if it pivots on the conversion brackets the load gets transferred to the point where it is bolted to the car and then there are problems...


Just a thought !

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

my thoughts exactly it's a bad design

FLAT TRACK

hi mark
the problem seems to be then there is not enough meat/strength in the diff cover were the top stud goes through it ,its not supporting the stud enough ,so when the cover cracks it allows the diff to drop on some cars ,but with the billet cover like a yb one you are hanging the rear of the diff from the cover which is spreading the load /forces to all the other bolts in the cover .
with the kit it is being held on the stud which relies on the standard supra cover to support it which on some covers the casting is very thin around it
hence the problems ,but with the billet cover it gets rid of that ,its nothing to do with the kit moving mark ,as mt has a billet cover on a 1000bhp car been on for 12 months and it hasent damaged the kit .yes the best way is to put mountings straight on the beam ,but the kit was designed to be a bolt in kit which it is as this is what was needed and out of the 250 kits sold only a few have suffered from rear cover breaking
by the way nice job on your cover as you know you are hanging a very heavy
diff of the rear mounting but it is spreading the load to all the bolts so will be spot on
mark

FLAT TRACK

hi jay
how would you have designed it
mark

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

Would of certainly looked at the original item rather than working round it and modified the beam to suit actually did the same a few times with a 8.8 ford diff and a Salisbury 10.5 . If you mount it on original you wouldnt have these issues but this would obviously drive the price up . The unfortunate thing with these ideas is its hard to finance the testing by small companies so re inventing the wheel isnt always the best way

FLAT TRACK

hi jay
but thats not what people asked for they wanted to bolt it in there standard beam ,overall it has been quite successful and with a billet cover proved indestructible as in the 1000 bhp one ,its like anything push it beyond what it was designed to do and it will break blocks ,crank rods and piston as an example ,still a cheap option over a 9 inch even with the cover kit diff rebuild etc ,break a 9 inch big money break a supra £180 another diff just refit all you weir kit cover and fitting kit and it available in about 20 ratios it would be far easier to weld plates and bosses on beam and cheaper £350
mark

Mr C

iTrader: (2)

Any pics of the support to the diff if the beam is modified instead of just bolt on kit? I'd prefer to have a beam welded instead of the kit as even second hand the set up is too much £££. What kind of turnaround time for the beam mods instead of kit MK?

Caddyshack

The support (assuming you mean diff hanger) is the same as with the kit as the diff hanger bolts on to the Supra billet diff cover.


It is worth asking MK Mark what his turnaround is as I think it depends on his stock and if you need it powder coating etc...(if you have someone local to you it is easier to get the beam in raw and have it coated)


Obviously compare the price of a beam modded to take supra diff to a normal 6 degree and fitting kit. I would pay more and have the tabs put on for a bladed anti roll bar just in case you want that later. It is a much better and neater solution to have the beam modded in my opinion.

cozziegav

Caddyshack

Personally I would go 6 degree modded to accept the supra diff directly, no kit. That’s what I did

cozziegav

Caddyshack

It’s not easier really as the fitting kit is just as hard, it is cheaper but you don’t benefit from the 6 degree which is a huge handling and traction benefit.

I have fitted both and would only ever 6 degree and mod to fit again.

lee2cossies

iTrader: (2)

Theres also the option of getting mk to modify your beam to take the supra diff without making it a 6 degree which is a cheaper option.

lockie

turbotrev

Now everyone needs 6 degree beams to fit their supra diffs, lol

Fuck it why not go the whole hog and put a full wrc custom suspension set up in every car, will be loads better, don’t worry about the money cost as that’s irrelevant as usual, ha ha

Cheers Paul

markk

iTrader: (2)

What you need is a rear beam delete kit ROFLOL

Caddyshack

Do we really need to caveat every post with "only do this if you have the budget to do so, if you do not have the budget or want to spend the money then cheaper options might be available"

If someone says "how do I do this cheap" I will answer that way, if they say "what is the best way then I tell them my opinion"

Worth chucking in an EFR and getting Mark Shead to map it whilst you are at it.

Caddyshack

This is actually a really good idea and would have been a better option than a fitting kit all along, you can pick up the hoops pretty cheaply and therefore you don't need to worry about the beam being away, the fabricator could have them ready to go in raw on the shelf and then the buyer paints or powdercoats to suit and maybe have some in black ready to ship.

You can then upgrade to 6 degree if you see the benefit or when funds allow

You would still need the billet cover though unless willing to risk a broken cover.

smiley

You still need the flange converters?

smiley

Oh and sorry to mod for saying I had a converted beam I notice it got deleted just trying to help

Caddyshack

That’s true, to include the flange for the prop. As well

smiley

Yes so you do still need parts of the kit

Caddyshack

I think a modded hoop and a few billet adapters without colour and let the punter colour them would be easier but 100% agree that if the car is apart (and it is a fiddly job) why not just do the whole job and do the lot.

The bolt in kit was a solution to allow people to diy it and not be without the car on the road but I was far happier with the modded beam to the chunky kit.

turbotrev

The op said neither tbh.

Same old replies again, no wonder this forum has gone to pot of the last few years...

Cheers Paul

smiley

Last few? about 10 yrs ago

Caddyshack

Exactly and the definition of a forum is really just a group of opinions. Clearly you do not like the big budget options and I do. You have not given any advice to the op as to what options they have but I assume you prefer the fitting kit option. I have used both and gave my opinion and advice.

My replies will remain consistent as I have no reason to change my option, when I see other options I will present my advice based on what I feel is best.

At the end of the day I was trying to help the op, isn’t that what the forum is for?

turbotrev

That’s because I don’t know where he can get one, hence I said nothing, I’ll let other people post and give him some decent info on locating what he wants.

Or I could of just replied and told him he needs £1100’s worth of beam like you did.

Always turning it round about your own car and what you’ve got, boring....

Cheers Paul

turbotrev

I have nothing against big budget parts or builds, my engine is big budget, as well as some other aspects of my car, but I don’t bleat on about it on everyone’s post about anything Cosworth

Cheers Paul

Caddyshack

Yes, shame on me on a FORD forum that is big in to Cosworths talking about Cosworths and my own passion for my car.

I would actually be interested to read about your build as my route seems to offend you to the point of distraction on the forum...it bores you so why not tell us a bit about what you are building instead.

Caddyshack

MT Motorsport has a stack of beams all converted and ready to go.

Adam-M

That’s where I would go as the key is having it in stock

Caddyshack

Yup, you get the MK quality but MT has the inventory to hold decent stock ready to go.

Adam-M

Best of both worlds