Evans waterless coolant....
 

As title says, just wondered if any of u people use/recommend the Evans waterless coolant, been told by a couple of people now they made big differences on running temps (track cars), just wondered your thoughts as been considering it on mine, thanks

a lad i work with uses it in his audi swears by said brought temp down its an old audi with a few engine mods

It can actually make the car run a few degrees hotter but it doesn't pressurise as much and doesn't boil until 180 degrees. You need to run the prep fluid first to clear out any water.

I use it.

So your car runs hotter with it in than compared to normal antifreeze and water mix previously?

Cheers Paul

it supposedly runs a degree or two hotter, but because it's better at taking the heat away from the engine parts, then it means your engine is actually cooler. If you read all the blurb on their website it tells you exactly what the benefits are.
I'm planning on putting it in my 3dr when the engine goes back, if nothing else, just to relieve the pressure on the header tank.

Couple of guys I know run it in a few race cars and it's great stuff, especially as it doesn't pressurise. As said cars do seem to run a few degree's hotter on the gauge but doesn't seem to cause a problem!

I keep meaning to order this stuff as I get quite abit of pressure, what colours does it come in? I don't want red coolant I tried it and there was far too much red in my engine bay lol.

Temperature is regulated by the thermostat...so all this talk of engines running a different temperature sounds like bullshit to me.

A friend uses it in his car....and strangely enough, it runs at the temperature expected with his thermostat.

In some ways I do like the fact the system doesnt pressurise....on the other hand a pressurised system with water in it...is needed to help the water work better. And water does transfer heat better.

I really dont see enough positives to make me change from water, and water is nice an cheap.

Anything with water in it will corrode metal over time. Although with the proper antifreeze mix and coolant changes at manufacturers recommended intervals u shouldn't have too many problems. I think the cost of this waterless coolant is great for racing teams, track cars
And classic cars that sit a lot. Pointless because of the cost to the general public in there family hatchbacks.

It certainly sounds interesting in the link above.

It's their sales pitch...they arent likely to say anything bad about it lol

If you are getting pressure in your water system then it is working, the system is designed to hold pressure for one reason, to increase the boiling point of the water. Mine runs at a pressure of 2 bar, very happy with it.

The works Escort Cosworths used to have a valve in the boost pressure line straight into the water system to get the pressure at 2bar and keep it there.

Their sire says it runs hotter, I doubt they would say that if it didn't do that.

The thermostat opens at a certain temp but it cannot cool an engine if the temp is rising and the stat is full open. The only time it would do that is if the cooling system was so efficient that it fell below the temp of the stat.

Waste of time and money. Have had many customers at work use it with no real benifits.

Prestone coolant is good and even changes colour with headgasket failure.....
Maybe not so good on a cossie lol

The colour would always be changing lol. YB...yes broken

The only benefit is the reduced corrosion. Water is the best medium to transfer heat so if you want to bring your temps down then run 95% water and a 5% anti corrosion additive (Such as Havoline XLI or XLE). You only need glycol to extend the operating range (below 0degC), so if your application is a track car then reduce the antifreeze content for max heat transfer. VW G13 @2:3water is your best compromise overall for the UK climate, push it to 1:4 if you must and use deionised water.

And if temp is still rising, stat fully open then there are problems that need resolved.

And a less efficient cooling medium vs water is not the way to resolve them

Not if higher than stat but static and nobody said less efficient they said more hence a slightly higher temp

If temp was static and not cooling with stat fully open...your system is right at it's limit, not a good place to be.

Yeh we used in race cars in the past and tbh waste of money and no real gain ! If your water system is pressurising then it clearly has a issue and using the agents is only masking the issues

Regards Jay

Cooling systems with water are designed to run at pressure.

Agreed mate but if there running to much then I am saying why bodge it ? fix it lol


Regards Jay

New headgasket and bolts fixes it....










On a yb:cry:

Mine was pressurising but it was due to the wrong cap on the expansion tank

Some pressure in the system is normal that's why it's a sealed system, to retain that pressure.

Even with Evans there still be some pressure created, but nowhere near what there will be with water.
Although when warm if you release this pressure generally it wont come back again.

Mine was pumping out and ovalled the expansion tank until we realised the problem. Marc Kinsey made me a new tank with correct relief valve and I have added and expansion line off a swirl pot.

It's not the cap that makes it pressurise, its the water expansion with no escape, the cap is simply a pressure release system.

As long as the system is sealed with water in it will pressurise as the coolant is heated.

I think you will still have the same problem.
What pressure was the previous cap rated too?

The system should not need to release under normal operation.

Yup...the cap is there to stop water leaking out the hole lol, but also vent in the event of an over-pressure situation.

Although usually by that stage something bad has happened lol

My pressure release was not set up correctly. There was no expansion from the highest point to let air out plus the pressure release was drilled at the top but the valve was designed to allow pressure out of the side. Initially there was no valve and the system was sealed. We thought the head may have been lifting on full boost but we don't think so now. Either way it will be sorted.

There is no valve, its part of the cap.
Air is not removed or left to find its own way out, its removed during filling when cold.
Expansion is via a small space in the header area.

I wasn't suggesting any valve other than the one in the cap.

There is a valve in the cap. Mine was taken from one cap and put in another of a different design. it didn't work.

My car needed a small line as per the std car back to the header, it didn't have one, now it does.

I bought it. Lost 200 or so quid and it was no better.

Tuner advised against it.

It doesn't work and a total waste of money !
If its an old classic car that's doesn't make any decent power & stood in a garage & run once a year ok

In what way does it not work ?

A friend uses it in 2 cares, both in the 7-800hp range with no problems. I wouldnt bother with it myself, but it's going a bit far to say it doesnt work. And cost is relative.