Colin_P

Evening Gents,

I'm a keen DIY'er and looking for some answers to a few problems I'm having;

1, No matter how much prep I do, feathering filler it seems to be visible. As if the solvent in the paint is reacting with the filler at the edges. I'm making sure there is enough hardner in the filler and am letting it go off (sometimes spraying next day). Do I need an isolater or a pre-primer of some sort onto the filler first?

2, I've done quite a lot of clear over base (Metallic) work on my cars in the past with very good results in the past when polished up. On celly laquer I've always used Farecla G6 then G3 then sometimes G10 as well with very good results. I'm using some solid gloss black paint, is the high solids compound worth using? I'm lightly colour sanding and G6 / G3'ing / good old fashioned T-cutting and then glazing. Seems to be working very well but could do with cutting down on the time!

3, On the solid paint, I'm twice covering the panel, letting it flash off both times, then going over with a final thinned coat to try and flat out the orange peel with seemingly good results. Is there anything wrong with doing this?

4, I've avoided using two pack paint as I'm worried about the health aspects. What is your advice for a DIY'er wanting to use it? Is my worry justified? I've read some horror stories about how it effects people.

5, Is the non iso-cyanate 2 pack any good?


Any answers most welcomed and any other tips more than welcomed.

P.S. I read and view the projects in the restorations section and an gobsmacked at how good the work is!

botters

iTrader: (2)

use stopper over the filler, try a high build primer filler as well. dont be scared of 2pack just use in a well ventilated area with a decent cartridge mask
for buffing use 3m green top fast cut plus (this bit of advice i guarantee you will thank me for and wonder why the fuck you ever used any of the "g" products lol)

rs clint

the non iso isn't very good for a diy job went weird when spraying escort cellulose goes really hard ,difficult to cut and buff

daz1968

I am currently painting a mk1 mini, I tried cellulose high build upol p88 and as long as you have a big enough tip, I used a 2.0mm, then you can spray it with minimal thinners, it builds ok and sands easily. If you are not using a high build primer then this should prevent the problems you are having, then flat this with a guide coat to ensure perfectly flat.
I however decided to change to 2k high build and use 2k direct gloss as its easier to work with and doesn't appear to react with anything, also gives superb gloss and flat finish straight from the gun. I used a gerson mask with the primer but was never 100% confident so bought an airfed mask with correct filters as I have more than one job to do.
I also tried the non ISO 2k but the primer is not easy to sand and is not thinners resistant as it doesn't cure properly, the non ISO hardener only converts it into an air drying single pack paint, the same product is used in aerosols.
I would either stick with cellulose or use proper 2k but if you do use 2k then use an airfed, they are brilliant and give you the confidence to stay in the garage long enough to do a proper job.

Colin_P

Botters / Clint / Daz,

Thanks for your replies on this.

Think I'll go down the stopper route but it'll have to wait until the spring now as I've run out of paint and I also think the weather is about to break which will mean no more painting in my unheated garage for risk of getting bloom into the paint.

I've just done both bumpers and a bare metal strip and re-paint on the bonnet with quite good results. Apart from the filler patch that shows on the tailgate I'm more than happy with the finish.

The car is 14 years old and was used as a daily driver both by me at one time and then by the Wife as a daily. I like the solid wet glossy finish of a solid gloss black rather than the Panther Metallic it came out the factory in. I Sprayed the whole car in 2010 except the roof in gloss black and this work is re-doing it, where there has been some wear and tear.

I'm currently on a six month medical driving ban, the Wife is driving the newer VW and when I return to the roads, I'll be in the 14 year old Focus.

Cheers Gents.

daz1968

I used 3m red stopper and it is very good, in the past I have also used aerosol upol high 5 high build primer and that is pretty good for aerosol but doesn't build like proper high build in a spray gun. You can also get high build in a water based but not tried it yet. This is overpaintable with any top coat and wouldn't need an airfed mask.

dingla rs

iTrader: (2)

your main problem is celly who uses that stuff these days ,just get a got mask and ventilated area and use 2k

Colin_P

I cannot justify the cost of getting an air fed mask (having looked at the prices of them!) for the paining I do. At the current rate, I'll have a painting session every three years.

daz1968

If you want to try the non ISO 2k then don't follow mix advertised as its to thick. Mix it 2 parts paint, 1 part hardener and 1 part thinner. But if I wanted to avoid isocyanates I would use upol p88 primer with as little thinner I could use to spray, flat this with use of a guide coat. Then either solvent or water based base coat and upol smart 1k clear. Then just flat it back and polish. I have used this to good effect on some mirror backs. Setting up for an airfed cost me about £200 including coalescing filter, other issue with airfed is air consumption. I can only use a devilbiss sri pro when using airfed unless I get another compressor which for how much I spray is not worth it.