DIY stiffer rear arb.Will this work? PICS ADDED
#1
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DIY stiffer rear arb.Will this work? PICS ADDED
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can DIY make my focus rear arb stiffer please.money doesn't allow me to buy a whit line before my next track day so what can I do to the standard one please?
Ive thought of welding on to it to stiffening it but read on net it's sprung steel and heat would ruin it. Is there different drop links I could use?
Any safe ideas appreciated
Thanks.
Ive thought of welding on to it to stiffening it but read on net it's sprung steel and heat would ruin it. Is there different drop links I could use?
Any safe ideas appreciated
Thanks.
Last edited by The Underdog; 11-08-2013 at 02:55 PM.
#4
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Thread Starter
thanks for replies. i already run rear tyre higher than front but im looking for added grip to the front not losing grip to the rear.
iv got an idea of spacing the anti roll bar mount bracket 25mm out then drilling a new drop link hole 25mm further up bar. this i think should give a stiffer bar like an adjustable arb. what do you think?? will it work??
iv got an idea of spacing the anti roll bar mount bracket 25mm out then drilling a new drop link hole 25mm further up bar. this i think should give a stiffer bar like an adjustable arb. what do you think?? will it work??
Last edited by The Underdog; 11-08-2013 at 02:54 PM.
#6
PassionFord Post Whore!!
In theory it will work if it all lines up.
When you get an adjustable ARB there are mounting holes for the links, which allow the 'lever' part of the ARB to be shorter hence making it stiffer.
This is my Golf one. (this was in the middle setting, there are 3 holes)
Does an RS have a thicker rear ARB?
When you get an adjustable ARB there are mounting holes for the links, which allow the 'lever' part of the ARB to be shorter hence making it stiffer.
This is my Golf one. (this was in the middle setting, there are 3 holes)
Does an RS have a thicker rear ARB?
Last edited by GVK.; 11-08-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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#8
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You have said you want more grip at the front but not change the back?
So why would you adjust the rear anti roll bar?
Why would you not go to the issue at the front, on what part of the corner are you under steering (initial turn in / mid corner / exit) ?
Whats your spring rate ratio from front to rear (is your front to stiff)?
Are you getting weight transfer onto the front (Is the back to soft front to stiff)?
Tbh I have seen some of your video you posted before and it does look like the back is too soft, possibly why you feel comfortable with the grip level on the rear
Just a thought even if you glance into your profile pic, assuming that is the same setup as that car, then the rear rate is too soft!
So why would you adjust the rear anti roll bar?
Why would you not go to the issue at the front, on what part of the corner are you under steering (initial turn in / mid corner / exit) ?
Whats your spring rate ratio from front to rear (is your front to stiff)?
Are you getting weight transfer onto the front (Is the back to soft front to stiff)?
Tbh I have seen some of your video you posted before and it does look like the back is too soft, possibly why you feel comfortable with the grip level on the rear
Just a thought even if you glance into your profile pic, assuming that is the same setup as that car, then the rear rate is too soft!
Last edited by smudger068; 11-08-2013 at 08:19 PM.
#9
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
In theory it will work if it all lines up.
When you get an adjustable ARB there are mounting holes for the links, which allow the 'lever' part of the ARB to be shorter hence making it stiffer.
This is my Golf one. (this was in the middle setting, there are 3 holes)
Does an RS have a thicker rear ARB?
When you get an adjustable ARB there are mounting holes for the links, which allow the 'lever' part of the ARB to be shorter hence making it stiffer.
This is my Golf one. (this was in the middle setting, there are 3 holes)
Does an RS have a thicker rear ARB?
You have said you want more grip at the front but not change the back?
So why would you adjust the rear anti roll bar?
Why would you not go to the issue at the front, on what part of the corner are you under steering (initial turn in / mid corner / exit) ?
Whats your spring rate ratio from front to rear (is your front to stiff)?
Are you getting weight transfer onto the front (Is the back to soft front to stiff)?
Tbh I have seen some of your video you posted before and it does look like the back is too soft, possibly why you feel comfortable with the grip level on the rear
Just a thought even if you glance into your profile pic, assuming that is the same setup as that car, then the rear rate is too soft!
So why would you adjust the rear anti roll bar?
Why would you not go to the issue at the front, on what part of the corner are you under steering (initial turn in / mid corner / exit) ?
Whats your spring rate ratio from front to rear (is your front to stiff)?
Are you getting weight transfer onto the front (Is the back to soft front to stiff)?
Tbh I have seen some of your video you posted before and it does look like the back is too soft, possibly why you feel comfortable with the grip level on the rear
Just a thought even if you glance into your profile pic, assuming that is the same setup as that car, then the rear rate is too soft!
iv been told a stiffer rear arb is a great mod for this car so thats my reason.for a fwd i cant really complain too much about front grip as its very good as it is but if it can be better i want it lol
my springs are 392lbs front and rear. i have 30 settings on shocks and found 17 front and 25 rear best so far. any less on front and it understeers more. its far from soft on the rear. it barely moves if i bounce on it. not scientific but its stiff lol also they are BC racing coilovers.
i have around -3.5 camber front and rear. thats max on front and gives best grip in my testing
the car in my sig is not the my track car thats my other car that is bog standard.
thanks for watching my vids and everyone for all replies.
Last edited by The Underdog; 11-08-2013 at 08:44 PM.
#10
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Okay but to what point is it a great mod, for a standard road car or a race car...
Okay so your front spring rate is stiffer than your rear (because your rear has a motion ratio of say half (guess!!) then you square root that which will give you an even softer rate!)
Are you hitting the bump stops on the front of the car under braking? have you lowered the vehicle so the wishbones are more or less parallel (front) ?
Yeh 3.5 sounds good but that's upto u to fine tune depending on tyre wear and heat across the tyre!
Yeh do not use your dampers to change understeer and oversteer of the vehicle (its not what there for!!) use them so the springs and your suspension system rides the road surface accordingly
sorry I got carried away lol
Okay so your front spring rate is stiffer than your rear (because your rear has a motion ratio of say half (guess!!) then you square root that which will give you an even softer rate!)
Are you hitting the bump stops on the front of the car under braking? have you lowered the vehicle so the wishbones are more or less parallel (front) ?
Yeh 3.5 sounds good but that's upto u to fine tune depending on tyre wear and heat across the tyre!
Yeh do not use your dampers to change understeer and oversteer of the vehicle (its not what there for!!) use them so the springs and your suspension system rides the road surface accordingly
sorry I got carried away lol
Last edited by smudger068; 11-08-2013 at 08:49 PM.
#11
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
Okay but to what point is it a great mod, for a standard road car or a race car...
Okay so your front spring rate is stiffer than your rear (because your rear has a motion ratio of say half (guess!!) then you square root that which will give you an even softer rate!)
Are you hitting the bump stops on the front of the car under braking? have you lowered the vehicle so the wishbones are more or less parallel (front) ?
Yeh 3.5 sounds good but that's upto u to fine tune depending on tyre wear and heat across the tyre!
Yeh do not use your dampers to change understeer and oversteer of the vehicle (its not what there for!!) use them so the springs and your suspension system rides the road surface accordingly
sorry I got carried away lol
Okay so your front spring rate is stiffer than your rear (because your rear has a motion ratio of say half (guess!!) then you square root that which will give you an even softer rate!)
Are you hitting the bump stops on the front of the car under braking? have you lowered the vehicle so the wishbones are more or less parallel (front) ?
Yeh 3.5 sounds good but that's upto u to fine tune depending on tyre wear and heat across the tyre!
Yeh do not use your dampers to change understeer and oversteer of the vehicle (its not what there for!!) use them so the springs and your suspension system rides the road surface accordingly
sorry I got carried away lol
you lost me on the first maths bit lol. not hitting bump stops and wishbones near parralel.
i have a different opinion on shocks to you and most of the tuning articles i read. shocks are a major component in controlling handling of car but not many people understand how to fine tune them.im still learning.
thanks for all the input
#12
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haha, motion ratio in google will help you
Excellent
yes they are a major component in controlling handling of a car but don't actually use them to adjust your understeer or over steer of your car.
A wheel hits bump if there to stiff it can cruise over it loosing grip.... if there to soft the vehicle can oscillate (unstability) fine tune them through steering input and feeling what the car does over the service.
They are also a critical factor especially in the likes of WRC cars all you gotta do is watch a WRC jump and when it lands all 4 wheels end up in the same position unlike jump a school car 9/10 in ends up in the tree! because the dampers can maintain the control of the spring from excessive oscillation
Personally I think the rear end of your vehicle is way to soft! its probably why its said that the anti roll bar upgrade is a better option because of the stiffening of the rear.
Excellent
yes they are a major component in controlling handling of a car but don't actually use them to adjust your understeer or over steer of your car.
A wheel hits bump if there to stiff it can cruise over it loosing grip.... if there to soft the vehicle can oscillate (unstability) fine tune them through steering input and feeling what the car does over the service.
They are also a critical factor especially in the likes of WRC cars all you gotta do is watch a WRC jump and when it lands all 4 wheels end up in the same position unlike jump a school car 9/10 in ends up in the tree! because the dampers can maintain the control of the spring from excessive oscillation
Personally I think the rear end of your vehicle is way to soft! its probably why its said that the anti roll bar upgrade is a better option because of the stiffening of the rear.
Last edited by smudger068; 11-08-2013 at 09:11 PM.
#13
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
haha, motion ratio in google will help you
Excellent
yes they are a major component in controlling handling of a car but don't actually use them to adjust your understeer or over steer of your car.
A wheel hits bump if there to stiff it can cruise over it loosing grip.... if there to soft the vehicle can oscillate (unstability) fine tune them through steering input and feeling what the car does over the service.
They are also a critical factor especially in the likes of WRC cars all you gotta do is watch a WRC jump and when it lands all 4 wheels end up in the same position unlike jump a school car 9/10 in ends up in the tree! because the dampers can maintain the control of the spring from excessive oscillation
Personally I think the rear end of your vehicle is way to soft! its probably why its said that the anti roll bar upgrade is a better option because of the stiffening of the rear.
Excellent
yes they are a major component in controlling handling of a car but don't actually use them to adjust your understeer or over steer of your car.
A wheel hits bump if there to stiff it can cruise over it loosing grip.... if there to soft the vehicle can oscillate (unstability) fine tune them through steering input and feeling what the car does over the service.
They are also a critical factor especially in the likes of WRC cars all you gotta do is watch a WRC jump and when it lands all 4 wheels end up in the same position unlike jump a school car 9/10 in ends up in the tree! because the dampers can maintain the control of the spring from excessive oscillation
Personally I think the rear end of your vehicle is way to soft! its probably why its said that the anti roll bar upgrade is a better option because of the stiffening of the rear.
i love researching geometry and handling and discusing it but you are one of a small minority who understand or talk about it on pf so thanks for that.
#14
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Its why you need to understand motion ratio to wheel ratio
The front uses a McPherson strut setup give or take its normal gives a 0.9 ratio
So say your spring ratio for arguments sake is 100. The spring rate at the wheel will be 99
The rear uses a trailing arm setup so give or take (on a Honda civic type r) its 0.5
So
100 divided by (0.5 squared) = 25
Front = 99lb spring
Rear = 25lb spring
So the rear of the vehicle is softer
You can simply measure the motion ratio by lifting the rear wheels off the ground
then take the wheel off
measure spring length (e.g 100mm)
jack the wheel up 10mm
Remeasure spring length and it will be different than 10mm
divide these two and it will give you your motion ratio
http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/
use this link and it has definitions at the bottom
if its all confusing its okay I just spent 3 years at uni and 2 on a suspension project haha
it will also show you how to measure your rear motion ratio if your unsure I can also check for you by using my focus
The front uses a McPherson strut setup give or take its normal gives a 0.9 ratio
So say your spring ratio for arguments sake is 100. The spring rate at the wheel will be 99
The rear uses a trailing arm setup so give or take (on a Honda civic type r) its 0.5
So
100 divided by (0.5 squared) = 25
Front = 99lb spring
Rear = 25lb spring
So the rear of the vehicle is softer
You can simply measure the motion ratio by lifting the rear wheels off the ground
then take the wheel off
measure spring length (e.g 100mm)
jack the wheel up 10mm
Remeasure spring length and it will be different than 10mm
divide these two and it will give you your motion ratio
http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/
use this link and it has definitions at the bottom
if its all confusing its okay I just spent 3 years at uni and 2 on a suspension project haha
it will also show you how to measure your rear motion ratio if your unsure I can also check for you by using my focus
Last edited by smudger068; 11-08-2013 at 09:31 PM.
#15
PassionFord Post Troll
What you have to remember on the rear mate is leaver input, we run a inboard spring so your getting a different force rate to a true coilover,
When we where running a 800lb rear spring with no arb the car was very lose on the fast corners, now with 550lb rears and still no arb the car feels the best it ever has, so predictable,
If you want to try some different rates I have 3 pairs of springs you can try.
When we where running a 800lb rear spring with no arb the car was very lose on the fast corners, now with 550lb rears and still no arb the car feels the best it ever has, so predictable,
If you want to try some different rates I have 3 pairs of springs you can try.
Last edited by nevsrevs; 11-08-2013 at 09:33 PM.
#16
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
Its why you need to understand motion ratio to wheel ratio
The front uses a McPherson strut setup give or take its normal gives a 0.9 ratio
So say your spring ratio for arguments sake is 100. The spring rate at the wheel will be 99
The rear uses a trailing arm setup so give or take (on a Honda civic type r) its 0.5
So
100 divided by (0.5 squared) = 25
Front = 99lb spring
Rear = 25lb spring
So the rear of the vehicle is softer
You can simply measure the motion ratio by lifting the rear wheels off the ground
then take the wheel off
measure spring length (e.g 100mm)
jack the wheel up 10mm
Remeasure spring length and it will be different than 10mm
divide these two and it will give you your motion ratio
http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/
use this link and it has definitions at the bottom
if its all confusing its okay I just spent 3 years at uni and 2 on a suspension project haha
it will also show you how to measure your rear motion ratio if your unsure I can also check for you by using my focus
The front uses a McPherson strut setup give or take its normal gives a 0.9 ratio
So say your spring ratio for arguments sake is 100. The spring rate at the wheel will be 99
The rear uses a trailing arm setup so give or take (on a Honda civic type r) its 0.5
So
100 divided by (0.5 squared) = 25
Front = 99lb spring
Rear = 25lb spring
So the rear of the vehicle is softer
You can simply measure the motion ratio by lifting the rear wheels off the ground
then take the wheel off
measure spring length (e.g 100mm)
jack the wheel up 10mm
Remeasure spring length and it will be different than 10mm
divide these two and it will give you your motion ratio
http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/
use this link and it has definitions at the bottom
if its all confusing its okay I just spent 3 years at uni and 2 on a suspension project haha
it will also show you how to measure your rear motion ratio if your unsure I can also check for you by using my focus
im starting to make sense of it though so thanks
What you have to remember on the rear mate is leaver input, we run a inboard spring so your getting a different force rate to a true coilover,
When we where running a 800lb rear spring with no arb the car was very lose on the fast corners, now with 550lb rears and still no arb the car feels the best it ever has, so predictable,
If you want to try some different rates I have 3 pairs of springs you can try.
When we where running a 800lb rear spring with no arb the car was very lose on the fast corners, now with 550lb rears and still no arb the car feels the best it ever has, so predictable,
If you want to try some different rates I have 3 pairs of springs you can try.
and in pops my other source of knowledge. lol. yes that makes sense how you describe the lever effect rog. hadnt thought of it like that.
what other rate springs do you have rog?? get yourself booked in to combe on 30th and i can steal your wisdom and see your car.
the whole idea of me doin this to arb is its almost free to try it and if i dont like it i can put it back in half hour.
cheers both
#18
PassionFord Post Troll
Car is in hibernation for now mate, but might be able to drop the springs up to you to play with, got some 800lb at 2 different heights and another pair of 600lb I think, will have a dig,
You could cut up another bar and clamp it to the middle of you one, then try running the car without it, just to please me lol.
You could cut up another bar and clamp it to the middle of you one, then try running the car without it, just to please me lol.
#19
you cant fix stupid
Thread Starter
Car is in hibernation for now mate, but might be able to drop the springs up to you to play with, got some 800lb at 2 different heights and another pair of 600lb I think, will have a dig,
You could cut up another bar and clamp it to the middle of you one, then try running the car without it, just to please me lol.
You could cut up another bar and clamp it to the middle of you one, then try running the car without it, just to please me lol.
rog the car needs to come out of hibernation on the 30th. there some jap cars you need to take down.
really appreciate offer of springs, your a top man. im going to give this mod a go and see how i get on and see from there. ive picked up some peices of alluminium for the spacers and removed arb tonight to take bolts to get a longer size then its just a case of drill arb and test. should have it done on or by wkend.
#20
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Thread Starter
well iv done it and it works well. cost was around Ł11 for bolts and drill bit so very cheap mod. il get some pics sorted and update my build thread with it when i get chance.
#22
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