Cossie fans not kicking in
 

As the title say's really. My fans are'nt cutting in on my 2wd Saff and I just want to know what might be wrong with them and where to look. It isn't the fuse as I've checked that. Could of been a bit embarrassing as I'd just wasted an M3 and had to limp it home without it looking like anything was wrong!!! Hahaha:cry:

Switch on the rad is a common problem

melted fuse box connections this is also common

Where is that located mate?? It's an uprated large stainless steel jobby, not sure of the make.

Bottom passenger side of rad there is a temperature controlled switch. Bridge these 2 wires on the loom to see if the fans come on. If they do it's the switch in the rad. If they don't come on its the loom braking down or melted fuse box (mine done this) personally I would buy a fan rewiring kit from someone like Motorsport Developments

How would I check that mate???

Right, think I'm with ya. Is that Brass fitting with a large plastic 'bulb' type thing coming out the back. Please excuse my ignoance!

difficult to explain where it is its the fuse on its own thinks its a 20A fuse pull it out and check the connections in fuse box they are usually melted a bit. Hence why MSD sells the uprated switch which don't leave the fans on so long..

Sounds correct if std it will be red in colour

as said just get a separate fan loom I did mines been fine since.

Its not std so is a blue colour. How would I bridge the wires. Would it be a simple case of un plugging the pastic bit and putting a bare piece of wire in each of the metal connecting bits on the plug?? Thanks for our input by the way!! :grin:

that would check the fans are working

Cheers for your help bud!! :grin:

if you look on the pinto turbo theres a pic of fuse box fusefor fan is next to relays green one

You need to re-wire the fans, unless you want it to catch fire!

It was a substandard system when new, leave alone now.

As said it's common for the fuse to melt so check this first and if ok, then remove the plug on the switch (Be careful of the lugs which need GENTLY prying forward as they will be brittle) then use a piece of wire to join the two connections together.

The switch is usually not the problem, rather the wiring is.

The "Uprated" switch is a good idea as it has a far more suitable span, the original one which has some 9º, thus the fans stay on for too long, and then you get further issues with it fighting with the stat, as it is trying to cool below it's temperature!

The fuel pump wiring, with age also becomes bad, as it builds resistance, it can mean the pump can not draw the power it needs when under load, so you can end up with a meltdown!


Martin

As Marty has said, get a new fan loom, much safer and really easy to wire in, will save you a lot of mucking about and you'll have reliability and peace of mind. I wouldn't mess with the original wiring unless you're going to replace it all, and that is far more work than putting in a new seperate loom. :grin:

I've located the problem now down to one of the wires (brown with black stripe, so earth I think) coming away from the plastic connector that clips onto the switch so the switch is most likely fine. I connected the 2 wire's and fans work fine. It is a 2wd model and the fans are the ford plastic twin setup, the radiators an after market s/s item. What's involved in putting in a seperate loom as I consider myself a complete novice when it comes to mechanics, let alone pissing around with looms!!??

Glad you gort it sorted mate.
New loom is easy, basically all you need to do is wire it in to the original fan switch and it should come with connector to plug it straight into the fans, then just one wire to battery positive and one to negative. I'd deffo consider the new loom, it's a wise move for relatively little cost.

Good advice:top:

As I said then, the switches rarely cause problems, it's the shocking setup that does!

Yes the connections at the plug are the ground for the relay.

It's electrics opposed to mechanics, not a lot, you can buy the looms pre made and they just require fitting, if you go down this route it just involves fitting it.

Basically you rewire straight from the battery, using the same design as the original loom, the old loom becomes redundant.

That happened with my connector and I managed to solder the wire back together as luckily I had enough wire to do so.

I believe "NYRS" looms come complete with a plug, if so that would be better for you.

The loom is ESSENTIAL, as I say, it was substandard from new and is a potential danger, not only can it cause damage such as melting the fuse box, but it's known to cause fires as well.

Martin