Spun a big end bearing!
15-08-2011, 04:22 PM
#81
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
What you must remember Perry is that no 270bhp 1.6L RST makes anywhere near peek torque in 1st or 2nd as the turbo barely has time to spool, there is of course some wheelspin in the dry at high RPM's but not much really. Your 3.4L NA will be making much more torque than any RST does in those gears! 
lol
lolI had no idea that turbo lag time was enough that no boost would be present in first or second gear. You would only have the 270 hp in 3rd or 4th gear?
I have driven the old (1987) 2.3 turbo mustangs here, and full boost was available
below 3000 rpm. One could feel the boost "hit" in first and second gear.
These 2.3's had the .63 exhaust turbine as well.
The 911 did have a 915 gearbox with factory Porsche limited slip.
15-08-2011, 04:40 PM
#82
We do make boost I didnt mean we literally make none!! lol
But certainly no where near peek power/torque and if we do it will be very late in the RPM range....
This of course will vary greatly depending on your manifolds, gear ratio's, wheel size, boost control method, C/R, etc.. So is a bit of a sweeping statement!
But certainly no where near peek power/torque and if we do it will be very late in the RPM range....
This of course will vary greatly depending on your manifolds, gear ratio's, wheel size, boost control method, C/R, etc.. So is a bit of a sweeping statement!
15-08-2011, 05:50 PM
#83
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thanks for the info Karlos.
I always assumed that the high power turbo cvh's had more torque than HP.
The 3.4 Porsche had 230 lb ft torque(at 5000 rpm) and 280 hp (at 7,000 rpm)
The 1970 911 was very light (2300 lbs)
I assume the UK Escorts are close to this weight too?
You must get considerable wheelspin after the boost pressure builds in 1st or second?
Are you running soft compund slicks?
I always assumed that the high power turbo cvh's had more torque than HP.
The 3.4 Porsche had 230 lb ft torque(at 5000 rpm) and 280 hp (at 7,000 rpm)
The 1970 911 was very light (2300 lbs)
I assume the UK Escorts are close to this weight too?
You must get considerable wheelspin after the boost pressure builds in 1st or second?
Are you running soft compund slicks?
15-08-2011, 06:00 PM
#84
PassionFord Post Whore!!
i have no problem putting my power down in dry conditions.
15-08-2011, 06:27 PM
#85
Thanks for the info Karlos.
I always assumed that the high power turbo cvh's had more torque than HP.
The 3.4 Porsche had 230 lb ft torque(at 5000 rpm) and 280 hp (at 7,000 rpm)
The 1970 911 was very light (2300 lbs)
I assume the UK Escorts are close to this weight too?
You must get considerable wheelspin after the boost pressure builds in 1st or second?
Are you running soft compund slicks?
I always assumed that the high power turbo cvh's had more torque than HP.
The 3.4 Porsche had 230 lb ft torque(at 5000 rpm) and 280 hp (at 7,000 rpm)
The 1970 911 was very light (2300 lbs)
I assume the UK Escorts are close to this weight too?
You must get considerable wheelspin after the boost pressure builds in 1st or second?
Are you running soft compund slicks?
Whats the geometry of a 70's porsche like? all the pics i can find show loads of negative camber etc....
15-08-2011, 06:56 PM
#86
15K+ Super Poster!!
Re the gasket issues,
It's more when running 20psi or over. I have the time and money to mess about as the RS is just a toy. If I wanted a reliable no messing engine then I would use the blacktop, it's properly solid. I said in my other post, you are introducing extra complications and you're not actually gaining anything in real terms.
VVT: locking the cam is what I've been doing for years now, but it gives horrid idle, and poor fuel consumption at low speeds. The engine also has much less torque off boost than the equivalent blacktop. With MS3, you will need the MS3 daughter board, the MS3X expander board and a new loom, so add all that in. The code isn't ready yet either! I have a Focus ST170 sat outside that I'm working on at the moment.
MS2 cannot control it properly. It is NOT and on/off system - doing like this gives shit results! You can't do it with open loom PWM either. It needs a dedicated control loop as the PWM is not related to cam position, but how fast the cam is moves.
Rick
It's more when running 20psi or over. I have the time and money to mess about as the RS is just a toy. If I wanted a reliable no messing engine then I would use the blacktop, it's properly solid. I said in my other post, you are introducing extra complications and you're not actually gaining anything in real terms.
VVT: locking the cam is what I've been doing for years now, but it gives horrid idle, and poor fuel consumption at low speeds. The engine also has much less torque off boost than the equivalent blacktop. With MS3, you will need the MS3 daughter board, the MS3X expander board and a new loom, so add all that in. The code isn't ready yet either! I have a Focus ST170 sat outside that I'm working on at the moment.
MS2 cannot control it properly. It is NOT and on/off system - doing like this gives shit results! You can't do it with open loom PWM either. It needs a dedicated control loop as the PWM is not related to cam position, but how fast the cam is moves.
Rick
15-08-2011, 07:02 PM
#87
MS2 cannot control it properly. It is NOT and on/off system - doing like this gives shit results! You can't do it with open loom PWM either. It needs a dedicated control loop as the PWM is not related to cam position, but how fast the cam is moves.
Rob,
15-08-2011, 08:11 PM
#88
i'm only about 250bhp and with the FRS box i don't really suffer wheelspin too badly on T1r's, when i get the boost up from 9psi to 14.5 then i should be around 330bhp is, going off a slightly lower spec of engine than mine.
power figures are estimates/based of similar specs/results.
the viscous diff from an rst is poor at putting power down compared with an ATB diff, although if you lift a wheel on the rst it will keep pulling, whereas the ATB will not till both wheels are grounded.
that's my 2p worth anyway.
sean
power figures are estimates/based of similar specs/results.
the viscous diff from an rst is poor at putting power down compared with an ATB diff, although if you lift a wheel on the rst it will keep pulling, whereas the ATB will not till both wheels are grounded.
that's my 2p worth anyway.
sean
15-08-2011, 08:35 PM
#89
Re the gasket issues,
It's more when running 20psi or over. I have the time and money to mess about as the RS is just a toy. If I wanted a reliable no messing engine then I would use the blacktop, it's properly solid. I said in my other post, you are introducing extra complications and you're not actually gaining anything in real terms.
VVT: locking the cam is what I've been doing for years now, but it gives horrid idle, and poor fuel consumption at low speeds. The engine also has much less torque off boost than the equivalent blacktop. With MS3, you will need the MS3 daughter board, the MS3X expander board and a new loom, so add all that in. The code isn't ready yet either! I have a Focus ST170 sat outside that I'm working on at the moment.
MS2 cannot control it properly. It is NOT and on/off system - doing like this gives shit results! You can't do it with open loom PWM either. It needs a dedicated control loop as the PWM is not related to cam position, but how fast the cam is moves.
Rick
It's more when running 20psi or over. I have the time and money to mess about as the RS is just a toy. If I wanted a reliable no messing engine then I would use the blacktop, it's properly solid. I said in my other post, you are introducing extra complications and you're not actually gaining anything in real terms.
VVT: locking the cam is what I've been doing for years now, but it gives horrid idle, and poor fuel consumption at low speeds. The engine also has much less torque off boost than the equivalent blacktop. With MS3, you will need the MS3 daughter board, the MS3X expander board and a new loom, so add all that in. The code isn't ready yet either! I have a Focus ST170 sat outside that I'm working on at the moment.
MS2 cannot control it properly. It is NOT and on/off system - doing like this gives shit results! You can't do it with open loom PWM either. It needs a dedicated control loop as the PWM is not related to cam position, but how fast the cam is moves.
Rick
So I use the springs from the ST head into the blacktop is that right, did someone mention I need shims or spacers or something too?
Thanks for your help Rick!
16-08-2011, 02:44 PM
#93
the advantages are being able to alter the cam timing to give better economy and smooth driving and much better performance when needed. adjusting the valve timing and overlap can really pull a lot of power out of an engine with no compromises. without it we're all stuck with crappy idles or lower top end power.
17-08-2011, 04:28 PM
#98
Tell me about it, i've been looking at buying an E39 M5 and they r reknowned for vanos issues totalling over 2k to fix! The price of them is tumbling fast atm tho, so in the near future will be the time to purchase...
Anyway back on topic..!
Anyway back on topic..!
17-08-2011, 04:54 PM
#100
Been thinking more about the cause of my spun bearing and I think it was air pocketing in the oil...
I noticed a while ago that when at sustained high rpm (6K+) on the motorway my oil pressure was dropping from 60psi (or whatever it was, cant remember exactly) down to about 20psi then back up again in a on/off fashion, after checking my oil level it was at half way on the dipstick, I topped it up and never experienced the problem again... I think the oil was taking too long to drain back down to the sump at high RPM's and anything below half way was not enough to buffer this and the pickup pipe was taking gulps of air, this of course would be pumped around the engine and potentially allow the bearing to contact the journal for a split second.
I noticed a while ago that when at sustained high rpm (6K+) on the motorway my oil pressure was dropping from 60psi (or whatever it was, cant remember exactly) down to about 20psi then back up again in a on/off fashion, after checking my oil level it was at half way on the dipstick, I topped it up and never experienced the problem again... I think the oil was taking too long to drain back down to the sump at high RPM's and anything below half way was not enough to buffer this and the pickup pipe was taking gulps of air, this of course would be pumped around the engine and potentially allow the bearing to contact the journal for a split second.
17-08-2011, 05:46 PM
#101
well the zetec has more oil ways back down to the block (double) so that should help.
may be worth sorting out big wings onto the sump though, metal sump lower should be easy to weld an extra bit to.
interesting idea on the air pockets though, dead possible.
may be worth sorting out big wings onto the sump though, metal sump lower should be easy to weld an extra bit to.
interesting idea on the air pockets though, dead possible.
17-08-2011, 05:50 PM
#102
PassionFord Post Whore!!
no need on the blacktop sump mate.
17-08-2011, 06:56 PM
#104
Regular Contributor
You're not filling me with joy about the state of your oil pump :-P
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