hi i was looking at my car today and my camber is proper negative and eating up tyres how can i sort this out on a sierra saph cheers

 

Is this on the back tyres?

Is it lowered?

1/ Restore it to standard ride height

OR

2/ Get some camber shims ( do a search )

OR

3/ Buy an adjustable beam that allows the camber to be adjusted

 

what will be cheaper mate

 

CAMBER does NOT eat tyres, toe does.
The rear shims are to reduce toe out, but can be used to remove some camber if you wish.
I ran 3 1/2 degrees rear on my old 2.1 sierra auto, no inner tyre wear at all ever.
tabetha

 

as above, camber has no effect on tyre wear, toe is the only wear factor..

 

thats odd, i would have thaught lotts of negative camber would wear the insides too much, as thats whats contacting the road more (or too much).

 

You're forgetting the tyre has flexible sidewalls, so contact pressure is always pretty even across tread.
Too much toe is effectively trying to drive down the road with the tyres sideways, which is exactly what toe is, expressed as a percentage of the 90 degree right angle of the wheel to the thrust line of the car, usually in mm or minutes, as the better "grad" was not adopted.
tabetha

 

When you run lots of negative camber you get more heat into the inside edge of the tyre and this promotes tyre wear.

Toe is massively more important though that can trash tyres in no time, but camber does effect it too.

 

I think the significance of the two settings as well depends upon how low a profile the tyre you have is, in combination with the tyre make and the wheel diameter.

On most of our cars we tend to run comparatively small tyres by modern standards with tyres that have ( by runflat standards at least ) comparatively flexible sidewalls

I think on the latest BMWs that run large diameter wheels with pretty low profile rears ( 35 profile ) AND that are also runflat so hence have extremely stiff sidewalls they have had problems with the stock camber killing the inside rear shoulder quite quickly at the back. This happened to someone I know and his toe settings were well within spec but the rear camber was at the extreme end of the BMW spec range ( -2 deg -ve ).
Presumably they've set it like that from the factory for handling reasons but the trade-off with the stiff-sidewalled runflats has been the inner shoulder tyre wear. I suspect with normal tyres the discrepancy between inner/outer shoulder would be less as the tyre would 'mould' itself more to the road surface as suggested by Tabetha.

I think it will be down more to toe settings than camber on a stock Sierra that is lowered but I think you'd also have to take into account the wheel diameter/sidewall stiffness of the tyre make as well.
I wouldn't be surprised if a stock size 15" wheel with something like T1-Rs suffered much less inner shouler wear than a 17/18" wheel with something like a Toyo 888 or Yokohama AVS over the same mileage ( assuming the toe was correct as far as possible )

 

Well I have two sets of tyres I'm going to be using at the moment I'm on escort cosworth wheels 215/40/r16/86w with eagle f1s on frount and toyo proxes on rear and then I got lattice wheels 195/60/r15/88v with not so inportent tyres on and I have koni suspention with 30mm apex lowering springs and I do have a bit of paper from when I got my tracking done so ill take sum pics when I'm not busy and post em up for ya all I just don't wona be ripping mmy new tyres up already cheers johnandhissaffy

 

What you need, is to know the rear toe values, correcting the camber would be good but correcting the rear toe is more important.

 

Yep, if you've got your readings post them up

 

Oh and I don't think I can change camber there is no adjustments on the beam coz the fella who did my tracking said so and the front was toeing inwards so changed that

 

Standard rear beam?

 

you can change it with shims still on a standard rear beam

 

I have a picture in this tread, of how you can make shims.
My tyres on evry car i have had, dont`t like wrong camber
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-e...ar-camber.html

 

Thats a lot better way of doing it than the total bodge way of doing it that most of us on here have done with shims from Mike that mean the hub and wishbone are resting on a lip essentially.
But that said, both ways work, and neither are ideal of course as the bolt head still wont sit parrelel to the hub in either case, which isnt good.

 

It works fine whit this, but of course a full adjustable rear beam is the best way to do it, but also a lot more expencive

 

noy very good pics but i tryed
before it was done was really out on the toe and mashed mt front and back inner tyres badly

and now the rear seems to have major neg camber but on the paper done seem to show this