6 degree Sierra/Escos beam
 

Ok, I understand this beam business I think. The stock rear STA pivot angle has X degrees forward cant with the stock STAs. I'm unsure of this angle, maybe I should measure it. LOL. The front/outside pickup is shifted back a bit along with a bit of STA hacked off with a nice rod end welded in. The inboard pivot/bush location is pushed forward quite a bit with a good chunk of meat added to the inner STA pivot length but with a rod end added for adjustability. Correct?

Now I'm not here to step on anyone's toes that makes these. I'm an accomplished welder and fabricator and really like suspension bits such as this and would like to do my own with a spare rear beam/sta and making a jig. Shipping a beam and STAs from the UK is just not a viable option for me. Just trying to map out any misconceptions I have about this.

I've done a fair amount of jigging and think this would be a good project for myself.

IS THIS WHAT YOU MEAN?
Attachment 168753

Bingo.

Interesting place for the battery.

i think standard is 18 degrees mate :grin:

here ya go mate.
Attachment 168763

Attachment 168764
Attachment 168765
Attachment 168766
this a sierra RS 500 rear beam with the alternative mountings.

very good pics and info there

Perfect. Yep, the more I look at this the more I think I'll do BOTH my beams myself.

Not sure why more people don't DIY this.

Them piccs look familiar ;-)

Thanks everyone, this really has helped me out.

Just as an aside Paul, is it true that the RS500 alternative mounting position only make the angle 8 or 9 degrees? i.e. that was the furthest they could move the mounting holes under the regulations and the that the ideal would have been 6 degrees ( but they couldn't achieve that because of the regulations? )

That's what I've read a couple times before. 8 degrees was the limit.

I cant understand why they charge so much for the work either, 2-£300 maybe not 900-£1200. Let us know how much it costs you to lengthen both inner arms, and mod the outers, +fit 4x suitable rose joints and seam weld the arms and weld 2x brackets on the beam. On a fair wage yourself surely not £300 when you have a jig. good profit at £500 GBP a set? Best of luck mate

Well the cost they are recouping is the jig, the tools and the time. Add some expensive rod ends and certified welders and it gets a bit pricey. Not many people have a lathe, bandsaw and mig welder like I do. Those that do usually have a shop and a grand seems about right. Imagine what I could sell beams for over here bypassing transatlantic shipping... in all honesty I bet I'd have 5 customers in the 360 million people over here and of those 5 guys 3 can do it themselves. :|

These are suspension components and there has to be some safety involved here. Mine will be ugly and over-braced compared to theirs I'm sure.

But yes, I will document it and take pics with measurements.

I belive the outer position is not changed, just the arm fitted with a rosejoint.


Attachment 168762

I had some of these made up to alter standard beams. The measurement is roughly 90mm, its also marked on the drawing

Excuse my stupid question but can somebody explain to me why this is done ? I mean modifying the position of the trailing arms would result it crooked wheels ? And also the axle shaft would be not straight any more but at an angle ? Im sure i got the whole concept wrong !

The trailing arms are extended to match :grin:

Hi Mark Thanks for the reply. Is this mod made for 2wd Sapphs to handle better or does it work too with 4X4 Cossie Sapphs ? Is there a diagram to fully understand ? :007:

It's a Motorsport modification to reduce the effect of camber and toe induced by the travel of the trailing arm. There are plenty of posts on what happens.
The modification also allows for adjustment of the static set camber and toe. Lower a Sierra and you will see how much the wheel cambers up.
The BMW 90's 3 series is the same, but not as bad.