4wd cossie/skyline gearbox
#51
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there's quite alot to consider before undertaking this conversion,i am currently in the planning/prep stage with this box on my xr4x4 twin turbo,if you weld the bellhousing then it has to be spot on,and you have to take into consideration that the bell housing will warp slightly when being welded,so allow a bit of room for manovure.
i got my r33gtr vspec box input shaft ground down to 14.9mm so i could keep the standard v6 spigot bearing,the v6 bellhousing was machined together with the r33 box and you have to get the input shaft protrusion right,adaptor plates could be made but it will just make the gearbox longer than it already is but a big plus would be you won't need to strip the box down,you would just need to bring the spigot bearing out with an adaptor,if you move the box back then the clutch arm travel will also be moved,loads of thing to watch out for on these.
I know welding is the only way i could do it,no off the shelf parts for the old v6,a proper cast would be a bit stronger but would not be worth it unless i could sell a few hundred off them,not worth the hassle either,i have gone for a pull type twin plate and modified a 2.8 flywheel as no matter what i did the 2.9 flywheel was too thick and the push type slave cylinder would not sit right with front diff and exhaust,i hope the clutch is good enough as i've only got 280-290bhp but nearing 400ftlbs of torque,hence why i'm doing this conversion,broken a few mt75's and can't really afford 5k upwards for a decent box.
i got my r33gtr vspec box input shaft ground down to 14.9mm so i could keep the standard v6 spigot bearing,the v6 bellhousing was machined together with the r33 box and you have to get the input shaft protrusion right,adaptor plates could be made but it will just make the gearbox longer than it already is but a big plus would be you won't need to strip the box down,you would just need to bring the spigot bearing out with an adaptor,if you move the box back then the clutch arm travel will also be moved,loads of thing to watch out for on these.
I know welding is the only way i could do it,no off the shelf parts for the old v6,a proper cast would be a bit stronger but would not be worth it unless i could sell a few hundred off them,not worth the hassle either,i have gone for a pull type twin plate and modified a 2.8 flywheel as no matter what i did the 2.9 flywheel was too thick and the push type slave cylinder would not sit right with front diff and exhaust,i hope the clutch is good enough as i've only got 280-290bhp but nearing 400ftlbs of torque,hence why i'm doing this conversion,broken a few mt75's and can't really afford 5k upwards for a decent box.
#53
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
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would love to do it full time and then i could do work for other people but it takes long enough doing my own stuff!! not enough days in the week.i'm still waiting for some gearbox components as i'm rebuilding the v-spec box,once thats done then it's onto the next stage off tranny tunnel modding and making a gearbox mount,then measure up for driveshaft lengths
is yours for a v6 or cossie? dave howard on www.fordpower.eu may be able to help you out
as far as boxes go i got a late spec decent v-spec box,driveshafts etc for Ł450 but i recently bought a r33 gtr box for Ł40 quid off ebay with 3rd gear synchro fault(common fault),won't cost too much to fix that one as a spare gearset/transfer box
machining and welding cost me about Ł200 but thats cheap,you need to have all the measurements correct for any company to machine,they will not sort it out for you. as its alot of mucking about to get both bellhousings to meet in the right place for the input shaft.i got a slightly used Ł1400 twin plate clutch of ebay for Ł300 an old 2.8 v6 flywheel as i had depth issues with the 2.9,machined the flywheel for the clutch Ł40.only other expenses are a hydraulic pump/tank and variable valve for the transfer clutch system and driveshaft balancing,most of it is just lots of tea and planning,planning,planning
is yours for a v6 or cossie? dave howard on www.fordpower.eu may be able to help you out
as far as boxes go i got a late spec decent v-spec box,driveshafts etc for Ł450 but i recently bought a r33 gtr box for Ł40 quid off ebay with 3rd gear synchro fault(common fault),won't cost too much to fix that one as a spare gearset/transfer box
machining and welding cost me about Ł200 but thats cheap,you need to have all the measurements correct for any company to machine,they will not sort it out for you. as its alot of mucking about to get both bellhousings to meet in the right place for the input shaft.i got a slightly used Ł1400 twin plate clutch of ebay for Ł300 an old 2.8 v6 flywheel as i had depth issues with the 2.9,machined the flywheel for the clutch Ł40.only other expenses are a hydraulic pump/tank and variable valve for the transfer clutch system and driveshaft balancing,most of it is just lots of tea and planning,planning,planning
#55
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well i have been a bit slack on the gearbox front,i have been working and saving like a dog for my wedding next month,i managed to re-build the box this week all sychro's checked and with new bearings and seals.
As far as welding goes,the welding on my box is on bothsides and is 4 times as thick as the bellhousing so i can't see it breaking,if welding was'nt good enough then we would'nt build half the stuff in the world like ships,buildings etc.the bellhousing does not see anywhere near the torque of the engine,all it see's is drag from bearings and drag from the layshaft,4wd drive boxes will see a bit more due to the transferbox.
Just need to sort a few other issues and then i can fit this over the winter.i will control the torque split with some parts off a roadsweeper! the hydraulic valve am i using is a proportional valve so i can map it like an injector with pwm. i could select what torque split i want in each gear or just have a static control with a potentiometer for either a selected torque split or just 2wd.it's nowhere near how the skyline controls it but i may look into transplanting stuff if i'm not happy with the set-up.
As far as welding goes,the welding on my box is on bothsides and is 4 times as thick as the bellhousing so i can't see it breaking,if welding was'nt good enough then we would'nt build half the stuff in the world like ships,buildings etc.the bellhousing does not see anywhere near the torque of the engine,all it see's is drag from bearings and drag from the layshaft,4wd drive boxes will see a bit more due to the transferbox.
Just need to sort a few other issues and then i can fit this over the winter.i will control the torque split with some parts off a roadsweeper! the hydraulic valve am i using is a proportional valve so i can map it like an injector with pwm. i could select what torque split i want in each gear or just have a static control with a potentiometer for either a selected torque split or just 2wd.it's nowhere near how the skyline controls it but i may look into transplanting stuff if i'm not happy with the set-up.
#57
Hello,
I'm Chris from Austria and will also change my gearbox to a Skyline Gearbox. At the moment I have a GTR R32 Gearbox, a modified Cosworth flywheel with a twin plate HKS Clutch. Front prop shaft from a Skyline.
A few questions:
) where can I get a rebuilt Kit for the Skyline Box (bearings, seals)
) which pump do u use for the transferbox
Thank u
I'm Chris from Austria and will also change my gearbox to a Skyline Gearbox. At the moment I have a GTR R32 Gearbox, a modified Cosworth flywheel with a twin plate HKS Clutch. Front prop shaft from a Skyline.
A few questions:
) where can I get a rebuilt Kit for the Skyline Box (bearings, seals)
) which pump do u use for the transferbox
Thank u
#59
Hy,
I think 5 kg without clutch.
In my Skyline Gearbox workshop they write that the control pressure is from 0 - 1569 kPa. Which oil pump does 15 bar?
Where can I find rebuilt Kit for Skyline box? New bearings would be great!!!!!
Thx Chris
I think 5 kg without clutch.
In my Skyline Gearbox workshop they write that the control pressure is from 0 - 1569 kPa. Which oil pump does 15 bar?
Where can I find rebuilt Kit for Skyline box? New bearings would be great!!!!!
Thx Chris
#64
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you'll need a 12v hydraulic pump(boat steering),accumulator,variable hydraulic valve and a 12v 2 amp pwm controller.or just use the original assembly.the one to get is the r33 gtr attesa ets,not the vspec but standard assembly.the unit has a variable valve wwith 2 coils on it,the coil closest the block is the variable coil and the other is a fail safe coil to stop the 4wd operating.
You want to be careful putting too much torque to a standard ford 6.5" diff,you dont want to run anywhere near 50/50 with anything over 300ftlbs of torque,it won't last long.
the skyline front prop has uj's which are half the size of the ford prop,but the diff to driveshaft register and bolt pattern are the same as ford.
If using a r33 box then the slave and clutch arm get in the way of the front prop,i had to move the clutch arm round to solve this.I have a cologne v6 so not to sure if the 2ltr cossie would have the same issue but its one to look out for.
this is an r32 gtr attesa ets pump/valve block
this an r333 gtr attessa pump/valve block
you can see the difference,the r32 has 1 coil and the r33 has 2,the failsafe coil can be used to go 2wd.
there is a r33 attessa pump on ebay at the moment,bit pricey but they do cost over Ł1000 new
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-SKYLINE...item2a0b4c883e
You want to be careful putting too much torque to a standard ford 6.5" diff,you dont want to run anywhere near 50/50 with anything over 300ftlbs of torque,it won't last long.
the skyline front prop has uj's which are half the size of the ford prop,but the diff to driveshaft register and bolt pattern are the same as ford.
If using a r33 box then the slave and clutch arm get in the way of the front prop,i had to move the clutch arm round to solve this.I have a cologne v6 so not to sure if the 2ltr cossie would have the same issue but its one to look out for.
this is an r32 gtr attesa ets pump/valve block
this an r333 gtr attessa pump/valve block
you can see the difference,the r32 has 1 coil and the r33 has 2,the failsafe coil can be used to go 2wd.
there is a r33 attessa pump on ebay at the moment,bit pricey but they do cost over Ł1000 new
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-SKYLINE...item2a0b4c883e
#68
Mhhh ok my release mechanism looks different. Right? there is a pull and a push type? F*** now i have the wrong release bearing. I have the same like scarabman but the other release arm. I hope my clutch is the right one!!!!
#69
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put a pic of the clutch up and i will tell what it is.if the gearbox you have has the push type arm then it may be an r32 gearbox,there's not alot of difference,apart from the r33 has better synchros and the transfer chain is stronger.
#75
escort mk4 cossy 4x4
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i used a mocal oil pump,and at one point of testing it registered 400 psi of pressure.
i had my car on the hub dynos at thor racing,so measured the torque split at different pressures.
180 psi was full 50 / 50 split.anything over this did not alter the split.
iirc 80 psi was 60 rear 40 front.
you can use what you want,but my system worked very well in my car .
Last edited by Lloyd; 04-12-2010 at 12:39 PM.
#77
escort mk4 cossy 4x4
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