Neil S

iTrader: (1)

My cossie has been steadily running hotter recently, up around 96-97 degrees since fitting one of MSD's hotter fan switches.

When it was Stage 1 it used to run a steady 90deg on cruise, would sometimes hit 95 after a blast or in traffic but the fans would always kick in, bring the temp down then cut out.

I put an RS500 cooler on it and that added a degree or two but recently things are notably hotter - I'm sure something isn't right

Whipped the cooler off today and ran it up to temp so I could feel the rad - there's no cold spots just a very slight temperature gradient across it, I'm satisfied there is nothing seriously wrong with that.

I'm happy there are no airlocks, I know how to bleed the air out, heater is nice and hot too...

All I can think of is the water pump or the headgasket. Car is running T34 0.63AR and 803s, 28psi spike and 25 at the baps. Gasket is a so called Group A. I've got slight cracking on the header tank but have seen loads worse.

The car has never overheated - would I be OK to whip the head off and bung an EEC4 Escos gasket on without getting a skim? If memory serves the head is at, or close to the minimum thickness.

Cheers!

Neil.

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

could be a sticky stat not quite opening fully, get a sniff test done on it as might not be the gasket mate, is it using water of any foam or that in the header tank, check up under the exhaust manifold and see if you can see any water run marks on the block as this is a common place for the gaskets to rot out and leak.

nice_head

iTrader: (2)

Ive started getting the same sort of problem when i put my cossie upto stage 3, it would get hot when i booted it around so i put a turbo cooler on it and she's been fine since

Neil S

iTrader: (1)

Coswurv, should have mentioned that it's had a brand new stat at the end of last year - this made no difference...

The coolant isn't as clean as it used to be, there's a bit of scum floating on the top now, would always stay as clean as a whistle before.

I can appreciate it's going to produce more heat now, but I would imagine the std cooling system would take it in its stride TBH?

This is why I'm thinking about just doing the headgasket, hoping that I won't need a skim as it's never properly overheated...

tabetha

What's the problem ?
You are assuming that the temp reading you are seeing is correct, do you know this for definite, ie have you measure it with a thermometre.
The temps your car is at is no problem at all, the stat is obviously doing it's job, so long as the fan works and it brings the temps down then leave alone.
The engine will not produce any more heat than before unless you are using the extra performance, as it is just a waste by product of burning fossil fuel(petrol), the more you burn the more heat you get.
If you remove the head as it is alloy it will warp, it will need a skim, it does NOT need removing from the above description,
tabetha

Neil S

iTrader: (1)

My car runs hotter than it did previously, something is not working as well as it has been doing for the last 8 years.


The only assumption that I am making in this respect is that the fan switch, ECT sensor and the sensor for the temperature gauge are all over-reading: I can see the increased temp on the gauge amd my SECS monitor, and the fact that the fans kick in at the correct temp confirms my suspicions.

Of COURSE I am using the extra performance!!!

Cheers, this was the answer I was looking for. Assuming you're correct?

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

Ive never heard of that one, removing a head will make it warp, what a load of old shit i dont believe that in the slightest, ive removed loads of heads and replaced without a skim, if you measure them with a fealer gauge and a staright edge and all is well then you have no problem.

cossie4i+

iTrader: (15)

Is it using any coolant ?

Steve

blacky.

coolant temps are ok to over well over 100 while abuseing it

i would say you just need a better rad if yours is standard

while over at msd recently for mapping wennys mk3 never went over 90

get the sniff test done but dont just go pulling the head off if that isnt the fault

tabetha

Alloy heads tend to warp if removed, as this can't be done prefectly evenly, but in this case the question was removing it to get it skimmed/checked.
tabetha

Neil S

iTrader: (1)

Blacky I don't think there is owt wrong with the rad.

IF I can get the head off without it needing a skim then I reckon it won't cost much to whip the head off and bung a new gasket in... Won't need much else as I can leave the head and manifolds in one lump.

blacky.

if you have upped the state of tune on the motor the rad might not be able to cope with the heat now being genarated

i wouldnt be to worryed if its not going over 100

my 306 used to go up to 105 when it was getting its head kicked in