thinking of building my own cosworth engine wiring loom
31-12-2011, 04:32 PM
#42
The connectors are commonly called "junior Power timer" or "power timer" connectors. they are made by a number of manufacturers with AMP being the top quality. Plenty of places sell them, eg polevolt, RS supplies etc etc.
Get the ones that can allow you to put rubber boots on as it helps seal them from the elements and also if you ever need to take it apart its easy to do so once the boot is off.
This is the connector list on the loom im planning:
2 way JPT
4 black
1 grey
4 yellow
1 blue
1 brown
1 white
3 way JPT
2 Black
7 way JPT
2 Black
Ford coil pack connector
Lambda connector
various ring terminals and bullet terminals for earths etc
2 relay holders with built in fuse holder
ECU connector
That was copied off a L8/P8 coilpack loom i borrowed.
If you cant get coloured JPT's just use black.
Also a neat and cheap way to label the loom if you dont want to buy expensive labelling tools is to type all your loom labels, print/photocopy using laser ink, then cut out and encapsulate in clear heat shrink. dont use bubblejet printed labels as if it gets damp, the ink runs. (just photocopy your bubblejet print out!).
Here is a scan of the measurements i took off a prometheous loom i borrowed.
few things will need to change for your specific car, eg Amal valve, earths, power supplies, MAP sensor lengths plus the length from the ecu to the engine bay. Ive not built my loom yet so you copy my lengths and find they dont work, then tough
yepski.
also beefy, buy a decent crimping tool as often dodgy connections are caused by incorrect crimping. You dont have to buy the mega expensive ones, as long as it is a proper terminal crimper tool that does the "w" type crimping then you will be fine. The Ł10 halfords cheapo terminal crimpers are not suitable.
Get the ones that can allow you to put rubber boots on as it helps seal them from the elements and also if you ever need to take it apart its easy to do so once the boot is off.
This is the connector list on the loom im planning:
2 way JPT
4 black
1 grey
4 yellow
1 blue
1 brown
1 white
3 way JPT
2 Black
7 way JPT
2 Black
Ford coil pack connector
Lambda connector
various ring terminals and bullet terminals for earths etc
2 relay holders with built in fuse holder
ECU connector
That was copied off a L8/P8 coilpack loom i borrowed.
If you cant get coloured JPT's just use black.
Also a neat and cheap way to label the loom if you dont want to buy expensive labelling tools is to type all your loom labels, print/photocopy using laser ink, then cut out and encapsulate in clear heat shrink. dont use bubblejet printed labels as if it gets damp, the ink runs. (just photocopy your bubblejet print out!).
Here is a scan of the measurements i took off a prometheous loom i borrowed.
few things will need to change for your specific car, eg Amal valve, earths, power supplies, MAP sensor lengths plus the length from the ecu to the engine bay. Ive not built my loom yet so you copy my lengths and find they dont work, then tough
also beefy, buy a decent crimping tool as often dodgy connections are caused by incorrect crimping. You dont have to buy the mega expensive ones, as long as it is a proper terminal crimper tool that does the "w" type crimping then you will be fine. The Ł10 halfords cheapo terminal crimpers are not suitable.
Last edited by Psycho Warren; 31-12-2011 at 04:47 PM.
31-12-2011, 05:00 PM
#43
The connectors are commonly called "junior Power timer" or "power timer" connectors. they are made by a number of manufacturers with AMP being the top quality. Plenty of places sell them, eg polevolt, RS supplies etc etc.
Get the ones that can allow you to put rubber boots on as it helps seal them from the elements and also if you ever need to take it apart its easy to do so once the boot is off.
This is the connector list on the loom im planning:
2 way JPT
4 black
1 grey
4 yellow
1 blue
1 brown
1 white
3 way JPT
2 Black
7 way JPT
2 Black
Ford coil pack connector
Lambda connector
various ring terminals and bullet terminals for earths etc
2 relay holders with built in fuse holder
ECU connector
That was copied off a L8/P8 coilpack loom i borrowed.
If you cant get coloured JPT's just use black.
Also a neat and cheap way to label the loom if you dont want to buy expensive labelling tools is to type all your loom labels, print/photocopy using laser ink, then cut out and encapsulate in clear heat shrink. dont use bubblejet printed labels as if it gets damp, the ink runs. (just photocopy your bubblejet print out!).
Here is a scan of the measurements i took off a prometheous loom i borrowed.
few things will need to change for your specific car, eg Amal valve, earths, power supplies, MAP sensor lengths plus the length from the ecu to the engine bay. Ive not built my loom yet so you copy my lengths and find they dont work, then tough
yepski.
also beefy, buy a decent crimping tool as often dodgy connections are caused by incorrect crimping. You dont have to buy the mega expensive ones, as long as it is a proper terminal crimper tool that does the "w" type crimping then you will be fine. The Ł10 halfords cheapo terminal crimpers are not suitable.
Get the ones that can allow you to put rubber boots on as it helps seal them from the elements and also if you ever need to take it apart its easy to do so once the boot is off.
This is the connector list on the loom im planning:
2 way JPT
4 black
1 grey
4 yellow
1 blue
1 brown
1 white
3 way JPT
2 Black
7 way JPT
2 Black
Ford coil pack connector
Lambda connector
various ring terminals and bullet terminals for earths etc
2 relay holders with built in fuse holder
ECU connector
That was copied off a L8/P8 coilpack loom i borrowed.
If you cant get coloured JPT's just use black.
Also a neat and cheap way to label the loom if you dont want to buy expensive labelling tools is to type all your loom labels, print/photocopy using laser ink, then cut out and encapsulate in clear heat shrink. dont use bubblejet printed labels as if it gets damp, the ink runs. (just photocopy your bubblejet print out!).
Here is a scan of the measurements i took off a prometheous loom i borrowed.
few things will need to change for your specific car, eg Amal valve, earths, power supplies, MAP sensor lengths plus the length from the ecu to the engine bay. Ive not built my loom yet so you copy my lengths and find they dont work, then tough
yepski.
also beefy, buy a decent crimping tool as often dodgy connections are caused by incorrect crimping. You dont have to buy the mega expensive ones, as long as it is a proper terminal crimper tool that does the "w" type crimping then you will be fine. The Ł10 halfords cheapo terminal crimpers are not suitable.
that looks spot on my little nutcase
but i still want me fuckin parmo
01-01-2012, 01:09 PM
#46
i'm swapping my 4x4 throttle body for a small turbo escort throttle body.
the plugs on the icv and tps are different.
i've found out the tps is a coilpack plug.
does anyone know what the icv plug is called and where to get one from? a link to the plug would be handy
thanks justin
the plugs on the icv and tps are different.
i've found out the tps is a coilpack plug.
does anyone know what the icv plug is called and where to get one from? a link to the plug would be handy
thanks justin
01-01-2012, 09:48 PM
#50
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
i got a coild pack plug from a breakers yard, just cut it off a loom, and removed the pins and rewired it with my own.
any loom builders should sell hard to find plugs.
heres a simple wiring diagram for all cossie ecus,
http://www.bigturbo.co.uk/main6.htm
i will uplaod the proper diagram tomorow
any loom builders should sell hard to find plugs.
heres a simple wiring diagram for all cossie ecus,
http://www.bigturbo.co.uk/main6.htm
i will uplaod the proper diagram tomorow
Last edited by stu21t; 01-01-2012 at 10:08 PM.
02-01-2012, 02:33 PM
#55
Glennvestite
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glenn, try here
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...e/homepage.php
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...e/homepage.php
I have looked on there a few times and have never found it.
Last edited by Glenn_; 02-01-2012 at 02:34 PM.
22-05-2013, 02:30 PM
#59
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As saphcosmike i need a loom diagram with the extra's on Closed loop,
air injectors with boost adjuster, wasted spark for 3dr with L8 also diagram for the extra 4 injecter setup thanks.
air injectors with boost adjuster, wasted spark for 3dr with L8 also diagram for the extra 4 injecter setup thanks.
22-05-2013, 02:52 PM
#60
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im planning to build myself a loom for my 2.8 turbo engine, couse it's converted to EFI and will run on a after market ECU, but, what thickness of wires do i need? ive got me a complete 2.9i loom for the plugs, like the injectorplugs, and all the plugs for the sensors, but for the sensors and injectors, what thickness wire is needed? 1mm of 2mm? i dont have that many sensors, but will need a triggerwheel, dont have that on my loom, is that wire shielded? also the ignition has some shielded wiring i believe, but how it's shielded? i can get my loom untaped and never get it together so, mixups might be made, and i dont want that, so, any ideas on that?
22-05-2013, 04:07 PM
#63
im planning to build myself a loom for my 2.8 turbo engine, couse it's converted to EFI and will run on a after market ECU, but, what thickness of wires do i need? ive got me a complete 2.9i loom for the plugs, like the injectorplugs, and all the plugs for the sensors, but for the sensors and injectors, what thickness wire is needed? 1mm of 2mm? i dont have that many sensors, but will need a triggerwheel, dont have that on my loom, is that wire shielded? also the ignition has some shielded wiring i believe, but how it's shielded? i can get my loom untaped and never get it together so, mixups might be made, and i dont want that, so, any ideas on that?
22-05-2013, 06:03 PM
#65
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what do you mean with 19 strand mike? ive been measuring on my 2.9i loom, seems to be abouth all the wires are 2mm, and the ones for the big relais might be even 2.5, or a thicker insulation!
first i have to build a complete loom for a austin cambridge, stupid cotton insulation is all brittle and nasty. got all original plugs and pins for it, easy loom to make, but it is quite a job...
first i have to build a complete loom for a austin cambridge, stupid cotton insulation is all brittle and nasty. got all original plugs and pins for it, easy loom to make, but it is quite a job...
22-05-2013, 06:30 PM
#66
what do you mean with 19 strand mike? ive been measuring on my 2.9i loom, seems to be abouth all the wires are 2mm, and the ones for the big relais might be even 2.5, or a thicker insulation!
first i have to build a complete loom for a austin cambridge, stupid cotton insulation is all brittle and nasty. got all original plugs and pins for it, easy loom to make, but it is quite a job...
first i have to build a complete loom for a austin cambridge, stupid cotton insulation is all brittle and nasty. got all original plugs and pins for it, easy loom to make, but it is quite a job...
22-05-2013, 06:34 PM
#67
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ill see if i can order wire in holland, else it's gonna be uk wiring, but first i have to make me a good drawing (presumably 1:1) of the bay and what wire goes where and how much wires needed for what connector...
23-05-2013, 02:27 PM
#70
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23-05-2013, 03:15 PM
#72
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05-06-2013, 06:13 AM
#76
Only just noticed this, on many aftermarket looms the relays with in built fuses are rated 30amp
Yet the standard Ford relays are rated 40amp on the fuel and ECU??
Can anyone shed any light on this please as you can't get 40amp relays with inbuilt fuses, also all the rewire looms are rated 30amp.
Is 40 amp an over kill by Ford?
Thanks!
Yet the standard Ford relays are rated 40amp on the fuel and ECU??
Can anyone shed any light on this please as you can't get 40amp relays with inbuilt fuses, also all the rewire looms are rated 30amp.
Is 40 amp an over kill by Ford?
Thanks!
Last edited by Cossy Mike; 05-06-2013 at 11:39 AM.
05-06-2013, 08:39 AM
#77
I'd imagine so. When ford design it, they will rate the relay to work throughout the cars expected lifespan including minor faults such as wire corrosion leading to higher resistance etc.
A new loom wont have so many issues, will usually be better built and sometimes even using better wires such as the tinned wires thus eliminating the corrosion related resistance issue.
If youve got a seperate fuel loom, you can ditch the fuel relay in theory as the signal from the fuel relay you would just be sending to another relay directly feeding the pumps.
A new loom wont have so many issues, will usually be better built and sometimes even using better wires such as the tinned wires thus eliminating the corrosion related resistance issue.
If youve got a seperate fuel loom, you can ditch the fuel relay in theory as the signal from the fuel relay you would just be sending to another relay directly feeding the pumps.
05-06-2013, 11:46 AM
#78
I'd imagine so. When ford design it, they will rate the relay to work throughout the cars expected lifespan including minor faults such as wire corrosion leading to higher resistance etc.
A new loom wont have so many issues, will usually be better built and sometimes even using better wires such as the tinned wires thus eliminating the corrosion related resistance issue.
If youve got a seperate fuel loom, you can ditch the fuel relay in theory as the signal from the fuel relay you would just be sending to another relay directly feeding the pumps.
A new loom wont have so many issues, will usually be better built and sometimes even using better wires such as the tinned wires thus eliminating the corrosion related resistance issue.
If youve got a seperate fuel loom, you can ditch the fuel relay in theory as the signal from the fuel relay you would just be sending to another relay directly feeding the pumps.
06-06-2013, 12:33 PM
#79
Odd one but someone may know.....
I don't want to use plugs off an old loom and I'm looking at the noise suppression for the coil.
I understand it's a simple capacitor but does anyone know what value it is that will do the job?
I'm guessing a 1uF 250v or 500v
once again thanks for all the help so far
I don't want to use plugs off an old loom and I'm looking at the noise suppression for the coil.
I understand it's a simple capacitor but does anyone know what value it is that will do the job?
I'm guessing a 1uF 250v or 500v
once again thanks for all the help so far
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