Oil Advice and Recommendation
#161
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
Anyone in the need for any oil advice or recommendations?
We've now got our End Of Season Sale running, so it's a good time to pay us a visit!
cheers
oilman
We've now got our End Of Season Sale running, so it's a good time to pay us a visit!
cheers
oilman
#162
Boost addict
what oil would you suggest for a r5 gt turbo running over 230bhp 23psi boost, iv been using 10/40 semi and changing every 1-2k (dont ask)
i have also had 10/60 fully in there when i first had the car
i have also had 10/60 fully in there when i first had the car
#167
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
They are really good oils, absolute top of the range ones, but the Millers CFS Nanodrive looks like it could be the best one (it's too new to say for sure), so go with any brand preference you have.
Cheers
Tim
#169
Bodger of Blackburn
iTrader: (2)
how about a forged, cammed gt30 zetec turbo for spirited road and occasional track use.
oil temp doesn't seem to go over 110 degrees Celsius.
i did have a look at the millers nano as i'm a bit of a millers fan for no particular reason, not quite ready for a change, only done 1k since last change, but like to take good care of it.
oil temp doesn't seem to go over 110 degrees Celsius.
i did have a look at the millers nano as i'm a bit of a millers fan for no particular reason, not quite ready for a change, only done 1k since last change, but like to take good care of it.
#170
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
3 dr track slag
yb running approx 380 ish with oil rad 9 row ,been using 5-50 mobil 1 but pressure drop quick when worm temps 100-110 on track.what would you recomend.
cheers mark
cheers mark
#171
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
how about a forged, cammed gt30 zetec turbo for spirited road and occasional track use.
oil temp doesn't seem to go over 110 degrees Celsius.
i did have a look at the millers nano as i'm a bit of a millers fan for no particular reason, not quite ready for a change, only done 1k since last change, but like to take good care of it.
oil temp doesn't seem to go over 110 degrees Celsius.
i did have a look at the millers nano as i'm a bit of a millers fan for no particular reason, not quite ready for a change, only done 1k since last change, but like to take good care of it.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx
Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.
Cheers
Tim
#172
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
A 10w-50 is ideal for your car and these are the ones that we stock.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.
Cheers
Tim
#173
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
Hi folks,
With winter here and plenty of cold starts, perhaps it's time to consider changing the oil that you use in your car.
Does your antifreeze need changing?
Is your gearshift okay when cold?
Do you need something to protect your car from the weather?
Let us know if you need any advice, we are here to help. You can call us on 01209 202944, email us at sales@opieoils.co.uk, or just ask here.
Cheers
oilman
With winter here and plenty of cold starts, perhaps it's time to consider changing the oil that you use in your car.
Does your antifreeze need changing?
Is your gearshift okay when cold?
Do you need something to protect your car from the weather?
Let us know if you need any advice, we are here to help. You can call us on 01209 202944, email us at sales@opieoils.co.uk, or just ask here.
Cheers
oilman
#175
Ok I have a Honda Civic type-r. its a 2006 model. I am changing the oil after 5000 km. Now i am using Havoline. Have you any other good suggestion or this is ok? If there is some better oil then please recommend me. Thnx
#178
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
Cheers
Tim
#179
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
You need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid. The Millers EP 75w-80, Gulf Gear TX and Motul Motylgear are good cheaper alternatives.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx
Cheers
Tim
#181
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
Hi
This one is ideal
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68895-fu...-mb-23614.aspx
from empty, it takes 10.1L, but you'll probably only be able to get about half the oil out.
Cheers
Tim
This one is ideal
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68895-fu...-mb-23614.aspx
from empty, it takes 10.1L, but you'll probably only be able to get about half the oil out.
Cheers
Tim
#182
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Hi opine,
Reporting a forum question here ,hope you can advise on suitable running in oil spec(mineral) and t5 gearbox oil for a track cos,about 300brakeish
Have an eng that ill be starting soon after being laid up for a few years,indoors and oil down bores so turns over nicely.
Afaik it had a freshen up,rings maybe but as its a trackcar can run in normally.cant do road mileage pre change to synth so how do I do 1000 miles....lol
What's the current thinkin on oils, presume still std chep mineral oil for a few hundred miles.......any tech articles and how do I replicate road mileage. .???
Reporting a forum question here ,hope you can advise on suitable running in oil spec(mineral) and t5 gearbox oil for a track cos,about 300brakeish
Have an eng that ill be starting soon after being laid up for a few years,indoors and oil down bores so turns over nicely.
Afaik it had a freshen up,rings maybe but as its a trackcar can run in normally.cant do road mileage pre change to synth so how do I do 1000 miles....lol
What's the current thinkin on oils, presume still std chep mineral oil for a few hundred miles.......any tech articles and how do I replicate road mileage. .???
#183
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
Yes, a mineral oil for the first few hundred, something like the Millers CRO.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-mi...ng-in-oil.aspx
A 10w-50 is ideal for when it's run in.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.
Cheers
Tim
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-mi...ng-in-oil.aspx
A 10w-50 is ideal for when it's run in.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.
Cheers
Tim
#184
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Yes, a mineral oil for the first few hundred, something like the Millers CRO.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-mi...ng-in-oil.aspx
A 10w-50 is ideal for when it's run in.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.
Cheers
Tim
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-mi...ng-in-oil.aspx
A 10w-50 is ideal for when it's run in.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.
Cheers
Tim
Cheers Tim
What about gearbox and diff...
#185
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
You need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx
A 75w-90 is ideal for the diff
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-...ion-fluid.aspx
The Fuchs Syn 5, Motul Gear 300LS, Millers CRX NT LS, Gulf Competition LS and Redline GL5 are the best choices.
Cheers
Tim
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx
A 75w-90 is ideal for the diff
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-...ion-fluid.aspx
The Fuchs Syn 5, Motul Gear 300LS, Millers CRX NT LS, Gulf Competition LS and Redline GL5 are the best choices.
Cheers
Tim
#186
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
iTrader: (1)
Hi oilman.
Heard that ester oils (Silkolene etc.) are pure racing oils and not so good for daily driven cars (also in winter), cause they have bad dirty capacity to keep the engine clean and bad cold features (like I said only a racing oil). Don't know about the seals protection. The only good thing is the lubrication of the engine but thats all. A good Mobil 1 5W-50 will do the job on any power. If you had temp problems I would install an oilcooler before changing to "worse" oil like 10W-60 or 15W-50.
Heard that ester oils (Silkolene etc.) are pure racing oils and not so good for daily driven cars (also in winter), cause they have bad dirty capacity to keep the engine clean and bad cold features (like I said only a racing oil). Don't know about the seals protection. The only good thing is the lubrication of the engine but thats all. A good Mobil 1 5W-50 will do the job on any power. If you had temp problems I would install an oilcooler before changing to "worse" oil like 10W-60 or 15W-50.
#187
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
Whoever told you that stuff about oil really has no idea what they are talking about.
Ester based oils offer better cold start protection than a 'normal' oil of the same viscosity as the esters cling to metal surfaces so that when you start the engine, there is already oil in place. That means there is instant protection, rather than waiting for the oil to flow around when the oil is cold and thick.
Generally 'race oil' means very little at all. If you're using a 15w-50, then the cold start protection will be reduced as the oil is thick when cold, but if it's an ester oil, it will have the benefits I mentioned above. A few race oils are 0w-20, so very very thin and ester based, you won't find an oil that gives better cold start protection.
Mobil 5w-50 was an okay oil, but it has been discontinued. It was not as good as the ester based oils - if you've heard the feedback we've had from people that have gone from oils like the Mobil to ester based ones, you wouldn't be questioning esters.
I'm really not sure why you'd use a 5w-50, but then fit an oil cooler for 10w-60 or 15w-50. That is just going to make the oil far thicker than needed, reducing the flow rate, raising engine temperature and increasing wear.
Cheers
Tim
Ester based oils offer better cold start protection than a 'normal' oil of the same viscosity as the esters cling to metal surfaces so that when you start the engine, there is already oil in place. That means there is instant protection, rather than waiting for the oil to flow around when the oil is cold and thick.
Generally 'race oil' means very little at all. If you're using a 15w-50, then the cold start protection will be reduced as the oil is thick when cold, but if it's an ester oil, it will have the benefits I mentioned above. A few race oils are 0w-20, so very very thin and ester based, you won't find an oil that gives better cold start protection.
Mobil 5w-50 was an okay oil, but it has been discontinued. It was not as good as the ester based oils - if you've heard the feedback we've had from people that have gone from oils like the Mobil to ester based ones, you wouldn't be questioning esters.
I'm really not sure why you'd use a 5w-50, but then fit an oil cooler for 10w-60 or 15w-50. That is just going to make the oil far thicker than needed, reducing the flow rate, raising engine temperature and increasing wear.
Cheers
Tim
#188
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hi mate
hope you can help on what oil type and brand for ...
Make-ford
Model-s2 rst
Year-88
Engine size and type- 2.0l zvh
Type of use (track/road etc)-fast road
Modifications that affect stock BHP.- acralite pistons,high lift cam. should be somewhere around 220bhp
hope you can help on what oil type and brand for ...
Make-ford
Model-s2 rst
Year-88
Engine size and type- 2.0l zvh
Type of use (track/road etc)-fast road
Modifications that affect stock BHP.- acralite pistons,high lift cam. should be somewhere around 220bhp
#190
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unfortuneatly my oil temp sensor is up the creek but it was running about 80-110
it has comma 10w40 at the min but it seems to be low on pressure at idle when hot. 20psi and sometimes under
it has comma 10w40 at the min but it seems to be low on pressure at idle when hot. 20psi and sometimes under
#194
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
iTrader: (1)
And the ester oils don't keep the engine as clean as other oils that isn't a rumour I guess.
Thanks so far.
Last edited by Cossiemainful; 14-01-2013 at 02:05 PM.
#195
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
It could be that as it's a semi, it's not as stable as a synthetic, so it's losing pressure when hot. I'd go for either a good synthetic 10w-40 or a 10w-50.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
The best ones are the Gulf Competition, Motul 300V, Redline and Millers CFS.
Cheers
Tim
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
The best ones are the Gulf Competition, Motul 300V, Redline and Millers CFS.
Cheers
Tim
#196
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
You need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx
You need an oil that meets the BMW LL01 or LL04 specification for the engine
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-685-bmw-longlife-01.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-686-bmw-longlife-04.aspx
The oils are all good oils as they need to be to meet the BMW specification, so take your pick based on any price/brand preference you have, although if it burns at lot of oil, go for one of the 5w-40s.
Cheers
Tim
#197
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
I meant before I'd use thicker oil I would install an oil cooler and keep the same oil (only with thermostat) not that I would use an oil cooler with 10W-60 oil.
And the ester oils don't keep the engine as clean as other oils that isn't a rumour I guess.
Thanks so far.
And the ester oils don't keep the engine as clean as other oils that isn't a rumour I guess.
Thanks so far.
I should have said, ester oils have plenty of detergents to keep the engine clean. Also, they are more stable than many others, so less likely to break down and leave deposits.
Cheers
Tim
#199
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
iTrader: (1)
>> http://www.eneos.us/product/2
ENEOS 0W-50 (ester / pao combi)
All in all for such a wide visco range great numbers. Sure it is difficult to create such an oil like this.
Will test it on my daily driven power cossie (hope for hard winter and hard summer) if I found a seller who send it to europe.
Don't find the thread with the oil analysis but it says: no metal flakes after some hard testing after dyno and racing with high performance cars like Skylines, Nissans revving until 10 000 RPM etc.
We have to wait for some more tests but an API SM oil couldn't be so wrong.
ENEOS 0W-50 (ester / pao combi)
- No. 1 in Japan
- Quality grade: API SM
- VI: 192
- HTHS: 4.2 (on request by the owner, not sure, it was replied on a forum, can't find the hths on the datasheet)
All in all for such a wide visco range great numbers. Sure it is difficult to create such an oil like this.
Will test it on my daily driven power cossie (hope for hard winter and hard summer) if I found a seller who send it to europe.
Don't find the thread with the oil analysis but it says: no metal flakes after some hard testing after dyno and racing with high performance cars like Skylines, Nissans revving until 10 000 RPM etc.
We have to wait for some more tests but an API SM oil couldn't be so wrong.
#200
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Oilman, What would you recommend for MY07 Vectra Cdti 120bhp 8v with 115K on the clock.
I purchased the car Oct 2012 needing lots of little jobs sorting and was behind/ due servicing... since owning it I've dropped the oil 3 times and put some half decent stuff from our local motor factors to clean it out ( not a fan of engine flush ), I now wanna look at dropping it every 6 months. It does alot of its mileage around town.
Would imagine at most it'll be doing 5-6K per year.
I purchased the car Oct 2012 needing lots of little jobs sorting and was behind/ due servicing... since owning it I've dropped the oil 3 times and put some half decent stuff from our local motor factors to clean it out ( not a fan of engine flush ), I now wanna look at dropping it every 6 months. It does alot of its mileage around town.
Would imagine at most it'll be doing 5-6K per year.