View Poll Results: what combo should i do
Keep 4wd for track use
7
23.33%
Keep 2wd using 205 block
4
13.33%
Take Engine out of 4x4 and put it in 2wd
17
56.67%
take all 2wd gearbox,diff exhaust etc and out it on 4wd
2
6.67%
Voters: 30. You may not vote on this poll
Ive got a BIG dilemma
15-06-2008, 11:42 AM
#1
Ive got a BIG dilemma
Ive got 2x Cossies:
1991 Moonstone 4x4 Cossie
1988 Mercury 2wd Cossie
ok the 2wd is in better condition but engine seems a bit slappy (which is normal on startup) and just dont run in general half as good as the 4x4 even tho its done less miles! the 4x4 is 10x better to drive lovely smooth responsive were the bodywork aint that good on the 4wd.
Im doing mainly track days this year and whatever one i keep is getting emerald managment
im thinking of swapping parts over but there are so many differnt combos.
i want a 2wd obviously for less drag on track.
The 2wd is stage 1 with t34
the 4wd is stage 3 with t3
do l6 always run lumpy idling and general than a l8?
1991 Moonstone 4x4 Cossie
1988 Mercury 2wd Cossie
ok the 2wd is in better condition but engine seems a bit slappy (which is normal on startup) and just dont run in general half as good as the 4x4 even tho its done less miles! the 4x4 is 10x better to drive lovely smooth responsive were the bodywork aint that good on the 4wd.
Im doing mainly track days this year and whatever one i keep is getting emerald managment
im thinking of swapping parts over but there are so many differnt combos.
i want a 2wd obviously for less drag on track.
The 2wd is stage 1 with t34
the 4wd is stage 3 with t3
do l6 always run lumpy idling and general than a l8?
15-06-2008, 11:51 AM
#2
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save all the fucking round, and go and get it set up properly at MSD for £141 
. Don't waste your money on the emerald management, just dosn't need it. If you still want to put it on, list your reasons please 
. Don't waste your money on the emerald management, just dosn't need it. If you still want to put it on, list your reasons please
15-06-2008, 12:16 PM
#6
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, save your cash and spend it on more urgent mods 
15-06-2008, 12:24 PM
#7
WELL worth the drive IMHO, or find a good cossie specialist (think MAD is down your way) near to you and get it set up properly. There is no need to swap ECU's for 400Bhp, a std level 8 or l6 will be fine, lots of cars running well over 500 Bhp with std management, and can even have closed loop/antilag/launch control/ wasted spark etc on the standard management , save your cash and spend it on more urgent mods
, save your cash and spend it on more urgent mods If he goes for "closed loop/antilag/launch control/ wasted spark etc on the standard management" then it will be more expensive than the emerald, so I think you are talking nonsense personally, if he wants to do all that stuff, then he is better off aftermarket IMHO, especially for a track car where the L8's one strong point (transient fuelling) isnt really as relevant.
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15-06-2008, 12:29 PM
#9
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If he goes for "closed loop/antilag/launch control/ wasted spark etc on the standard management" then it will be more expensive than the emerald, so I think you are talking nonsense personally, if he wants to do all that stuff, then he is better off aftermarket IMHO, especially for a track car where the L8's one strong point (transient fuelling) isnt really as relevant.
15-06-2008, 12:35 PM
#10
The closed loop / Als / Launch / wasted spark cost as much as the emerald
The loom isnt expensive if you make it up yourself, AND you have an L8 and loom to sell if you do it that way which is 300 quids worth IMHO
Have you been fucking smoking crack or something?
How many people in the UK can map L8?
And how many can map emerald? (hint ANY mapper who owns a laptop)
Sorry but you have your ford blinkers on there IMHO
15-06-2008, 01:56 PM
#15
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put the 200 block in the 2wd, and sell all the other parts of the 4wd to me cheap ! ( LOL) use all the best bits, and just run it on L8. thats what our 2wd is running!
15-06-2008, 06:06 PM
#18
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The Emerald is light years ahead of even a fully modded L8, unless the L8 does run EGT ?
For the expensive price of just ONE map from MSD, you get THREE from Emerald, sorry I got that wrong a TRIPLE MAP from Emerald is £275, NOT £500 for ONE map, you do not even need to use ford sensors, it runs coilpack DIRECT, batched, semi or fully sequential, has flat shift, in gear adjustable boost.
So forgetting ALL the extra features,(and the LAUNCH CONTROL about to be released) plus a few other more bits, you can get a Emerlad ecu and a full mapping session with THREE maps for less than the price of ONE mapping session with the mods needed to make it better ie closed loop, coilpack, and you STILL have a inferior less able ECU if you choose the weber marelli route.
Should you later choose to sell your car you can refit the oe stuff and take your emerald to your new car, it even runs FIVE cylinder cars.
You have FULL control over the emerald you tell it what to learn, how much to learn, when to learn it, and when to use it.
It uses 36-1 trigger pattern but also 60-2(vauxhall), std bosch air temp/coolant temp or user programmable(any) TPS/MAP alone/together, 0-1v 0-5 volt lambda's, road speed sensor(for adjustable in gear boost).
It can have coded immobiliser input, EGT, oil/aux temp, air con request, boost adjust, clutch switch(FULL throttle shifts), map select, launch enable, fuel pump relay control, supply relay control, TWO stage cooling fan(with adjustable cut in/out temps(and fan after run till temp reached), programmable tacho driver, shift light, boost control valve, variable cam control, cam switching, stepper motor and solenoid control(idle speed), CAN data link to dig dashboards, user programmable outputs, individual cylinder trims for ignition/fuelling,
Been tested to 44,000rpm with NO loss of accuracy, movable speed sites by 1RPM increments.
It has USER sensor calibration so if in 5 years certain sensors are NLA, fine use someone else's that physically fits and programme it, ie the CTS use a ICE cube and a kettle of boiling water, job done, sensor calibrated, no need for a remap at £500.
This just scratches the surface.
tabetha
forgot about the new incorporated turbo timer!!
For the expensive price of just ONE map from MSD, you get THREE from Emerald, sorry I got that wrong a TRIPLE MAP from Emerald is £275, NOT £500 for ONE map, you do not even need to use ford sensors, it runs coilpack DIRECT, batched, semi or fully sequential, has flat shift, in gear adjustable boost.
So forgetting ALL the extra features,(and the LAUNCH CONTROL about to be released) plus a few other more bits, you can get a Emerlad ecu and a full mapping session with THREE maps for less than the price of ONE mapping session with the mods needed to make it better ie closed loop, coilpack, and you STILL have a inferior less able ECU if you choose the weber marelli route.
Should you later choose to sell your car you can refit the oe stuff and take your emerald to your new car, it even runs FIVE cylinder cars.
You have FULL control over the emerald you tell it what to learn, how much to learn, when to learn it, and when to use it.
It uses 36-1 trigger pattern but also 60-2(vauxhall), std bosch air temp/coolant temp or user programmable(any) TPS/MAP alone/together, 0-1v 0-5 volt lambda's, road speed sensor(for adjustable in gear boost).
It can have coded immobiliser input, EGT, oil/aux temp, air con request, boost adjust, clutch switch(FULL throttle shifts), map select, launch enable, fuel pump relay control, supply relay control, TWO stage cooling fan(with adjustable cut in/out temps(and fan after run till temp reached), programmable tacho driver, shift light, boost control valve, variable cam control, cam switching, stepper motor and solenoid control(idle speed), CAN data link to dig dashboards, user programmable outputs, individual cylinder trims for ignition/fuelling,
Been tested to 44,000rpm with NO loss of accuracy, movable speed sites by 1RPM increments.
It has USER sensor calibration so if in 5 years certain sensors are NLA, fine use someone else's that physically fits and programme it, ie the CTS use a ICE cube and a kettle of boiling water, job done, sensor calibrated, no need for a remap at £500.
This just scratches the surface.
tabetha
forgot about the new incorporated turbo timer!!
Last edited by tabetha; 16-06-2008 at 10:10 AM.
16-06-2008, 08:32 AM
#21
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No excuse not to get up there and no excuse for poor running because of what ECU the car runs either
If the bodywork on the 4x4 is dodgy then fuck it off and keep the 2wd, no brainer IMO
16-06-2008, 10:06 AM
#27
With 400bhp, unless you drive like a girl (as in don't use full boost in 2nd / 3rd gear - EVER!), then these gears WILL fail at some point within 50-2000 miles - gearbox condition dependent (as well as how often 100% throttle is used in these gears).
This is even more likely to happen on a smaller turbo (T34) with a torque spike in the mid-range. The standard gearbox in my own car (with a Harvey light blue 400bhp conversion) lasted ¾ of an hour after the engine was given it's full boost once it had been run in, where it stripped the teeth of 3rd gear overtaking a car on the road (about the fourth 100% throttle opening) and that was in a 15,000 mile old gearbox
.
T38s seem to be kinder to the gearbox, as they aren't quite as torquey in the mid-range.
This is even more likely to happen on a smaller turbo (T34) with a torque spike in the mid-range. The standard gearbox in my own car (with a Harvey light blue 400bhp conversion) lasted ¾ of an hour after the engine was given it's full boost once it had been run in, where it stripped the teeth of 3rd gear overtaking a car on the road (about the fourth 100% throttle opening) and that was in a 15,000 mile old gearbox
.T38s seem to be kinder to the gearbox, as they aren't quite as torquey in the mid-range.
16-06-2008, 10:08 AM
#28
20K+ Super Poster.
The 4be is very good, just needs a rear arch done that's all.
I told him to get the 4be engine in the 2wd body, he's having a new g/box done as we speak, diff is noisy though!!
tabetha
I told him to get the 4be engine in the 2wd body, he's having a new g/box done as we speak, diff is noisy though!!
tabetha
16-06-2008, 10:09 AM
#29
With 400bhp, unless you drive like a girl (as in don't use full boost in 2nd / 3rd gear - EVER!), then these gears WILL fail at some point within 50-2000 miles - gearbox condition dependent (as well as how often 100% throttle is used in these gears).
This is even more likely to happen on a smaller turbo (T34) with a torque spike in the mid-range. The standard gearbox in my own car (with a Harvey light blue 400bhp conversion) lasted ¾ of an hour after the engine was given it's full boost once it had been run in, where it stripped the teeth of 3rd gear overtaking a car on the road (about the fourth 100% throttle opening) and that was in a 15,000 mile old gearbox.
T38s seem to be kinder to the gearbox, as they aren't quite as torquey in the mid-range.
This is even more likely to happen on a smaller turbo (T34) with a torque spike in the mid-range. The standard gearbox in my own car (with a Harvey light blue 400bhp conversion) lasted ¾ of an hour after the engine was given it's full boost once it had been run in, where it stripped the teeth of 3rd gear overtaking a car on the road (about the fourth 100% throttle opening) and that was in a 15,000 mile old gearbox
.T38s seem to be kinder to the gearbox, as they aren't quite as torquey in the mid-range.
ahh so should use it to be safe then
spose its worth spending the money if its gonna last then
so the pete doherty uprated gears are these
semi straight cut or something ??
cheers jim
.
.
16-06-2008, 10:40 AM
#37
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" i want a 2wd obviously for less drag on track "
Sell the 4wd and get the engine built properly on the 2wd, doing track days and the like the 4wd engine will let go at some point anyway, you should have change for a gearbox too.
Sell the 4wd and get the engine built properly on the 2wd, doing track days and the like the 4wd engine will let go at some point anyway, you should have change for a gearbox too.
16-06-2008, 10:44 AM
#39
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why the fuck would you take a YB out & swap it for a gay 24v engine
24v's are alright but thats just a silly thing to do
