JjCoDeX75

Hi all

As many who know me know, I have converted the brakes on the cos for some rather good brakes as supplied to me by Tony (RS Nuts) - (Massively happy with these!)

They are extremely good, and generally comprise 330mm fronts with new 4 pots (basically Brembo), and rears to 300mm using original calipers spaced.

My question...

The ABS seems to intefere more now - presumably because the brakes are working that much more efficiently. I cant help feeling the ABS is now not really up to the job.

What have people done about this when upgrading? I know the likes of Trev have gone down the brake biassing route, but thoughts on this?

JJ

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

unplugg the abs you girl

#or put it on a switch so it can be turned off when giving it some shit

what im about to do, is remove the abs pump as it has three input and three outputs, simply do away with it, and run a bias valve in the single line to the rear

dojj

iTrader: (3)

never had a problem on mine with bigger brakes
although when stopping after giving it some welly round roundabouts the abs used to judder a little

foreigneRS

the bigger discs on mine did not seem to affect the abs - but i was running std calipers

Nash

iTrader: (3)

I have disconected my ABS aswell, it does the job for the minute.

I want to go the route JTECH is tbh.

JjCoDeX75

Interesting feedback.

Yes I had thought of the switch in the ABS system to see how much difference it makes - I reckon the problem may be that the fronts are disproportionately good compared to the rears, though I dont know the ABS system well enough to know how it communicates between the two sets.

JTECH - Look forward to seeing yours after the brakes conversion. Take careful notes!

Interestingly, I found out the other day that ABS doesnt work so well in Reverse.....

JJ

foreigneRS

i wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't the rears now working too well, but i also don't know the system well enough

JjCoDeX75

Hmm - thats a good point. I hadnt thought of it like that. I will try removing ABS Fuse and do some tests. I am a big fan of ABS in the wet, but on the track, I want best braking possible.

JJ

dojj

iTrader: (3)

no need to find the fuses, jut pull the plug out of the top of the resivour cap and be done with it

JjCoDeX75

Ideal! Interestingly, I had to fix a fault with that very component not long ago! Shouldnt have wasted my time!

JJ

simonc

Mine has 330AP's, the last owner had a switch put in where the heated seat switch would go on a Saph to turn the ABS on/off. Also has an AP racing brake bias valve fitted but i've never touched it.

Simon.

evo200

iTrader: (1)

I've binned the abs on my car but am still using the pump. I've powered it using one of the original ABS relays, the pump is switched in and out using the pressure switch that senses the accumulator pressure.
Havn't tried it out to see if it works ok yet, am still building the car up.

col cos1

iTrader: (5)

ford abs on our old cars is shit ive ditched mine too

NUTS RuS

iTrader: (35)

What tyres do you have on James ?

The brakes may now have more bite than the grip level offered by the tyres

Eagle

iTrader: (2)

under realllll heavy breaking i found i had the equal to brake fade the abs could not understand that there was this much pressure being exerted on the discs
just cut one of the wires to the fluid cap and fit a switch inside of the car...

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

one of the problems i had on track was the car nosediving into corners under braking, the rear goes very light and the back is all over the place i know alot is down to suspension set up, but i think it works well if you can get the rear of the car to work slightly before the front so it stays level as the front are alot more efficient

im sure richie B9KOS has a bias valve and his car doesnt nose dive half as much as mine does

An interesting fact i found out about ABS while on a skidpad is... it at least doubles your braking distance when its working.

we did a simulated ice section ,and without abs yes the wheels instantly locked up, but eventually without lifting off the brakes it came to a stop, i couldnt steer, but it did stop.

with the abs turned on ,i hit the brakes, i could steer ,but we actually ran out or runway as the car wasnt even slowing down

foreigneRS

i thought that everyone knew that? surely it says that in the manual?

snow and ice the stopping distance is longer - nobody said abs can cut your stopping distance and that isn't why it was developed - it is just so that you can still steer

a day on a skid pan is a good way to experience these things before you try and rely on them in the real world

JjCoDeX75

Hi Tony - one of two really - Yokahama Parada Spec 2's, or the Toyo R888 road legals. On the Toyos - definately a lot better I must admit.

Very interesting feedback from everyone though - quite a lot of views on this one!

The thing is whilst ABS aint ideal on the track in ideal conditions, I have in the back of my mind a number of times in bad wet weather that it may have saved me a big bill!

JJ

rapidcossie

fit a bias valve and get some more rear bias

Si B

iTrader: (59)

Switch for ABS as per James's suggestion - I turned mine off on track and on for the road.

Same brakes and tyres as you - no problems.

Ford ABS is poor compared to the likes of my Beemer and even my old Calibra which I would never consider switching off.

Si

Eagle

iTrader: (2)

thats your problem then ... what suspension you running .. i would suggest if you want to track it to get coilovers with some good spring rates on the front.. the get some adrennaline frame connectors.. you will notice a huge improvement

JjCoDeX75

Also - how have you set up the front adjustable tcas out of curiosity? I will pop in and see you soon I promise! LOL

JJ

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

i run gaz coil over set hard and run 2 degrees of neg on the front turn in is fantastic.... when the back doesnt overtake the front the front brakes are wayyy to much more effective then the rears on my car hence it nosedives like a pig

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

Teves ABS actually