Mondeo TDCI Problems - Anyone help ?
28-07-2007, 10:09 PM
#41
Originally Posted by Gary_R
What are the negative effects of not getting the belt replaced? Mines been doing it for about 12,000 miles now; give or take. I did go to Fords who quoted me £300 but they told me its nothing to worry about and they'll only change it if the "owner expresses concern". Knowing my luck it will snap and I'll be without PS, AC etc lol 
28-07-2007, 10:16 PM
#45
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Thanks for the advice Sapph1. Grinding down? ever thought of that, i have hack-sawed one of my allen keys to fit. The advice about the roll restrictor is much appriciated. Once i have a new crank-shaft oil seal i will be able to finish the job. Well, i could put it all back as it is but seen as how i have it stripped, may as well do it for the cost (£10 for the seal).
28-07-2007, 10:20 PM
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Gary_R
How did you change the bushes, have you got one of them tools to press the old ones out and the new ones in? Was the subframe off or on the car? If off, how did you line it up and set the rear tracking?
How did you change the bushes, have you got one of them tools to press the old ones out and the new ones in? Was the subframe off or on the car? If off, how did you line it up and set the rear tracking?
28-07-2007, 10:28 PM
#48
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Its pretty easy tbh, the hardest part is taking the old ones out as they are glued in!
Jack the car up and take the wheels off (obviously!)
Remove one of the bolts holding the a bush in and slacken the bolt on the bush next to it.
Remove the old bush, I used a drill and then removed the excess with some sand paper but some people prefer to dose them in petrol and set the fuckers alight. Take into account though that the fuel take is about 30cm away
Slide in the polybush, you may need to use a jack and a chock. Bolt it back up and thats 1 down 3 to go. Simply repeat the process. The subframe won't need aligning either as it shouldn't of moved (only by a mm at most).
Good mod to improve the handling and relatively cheap
Don't forget the powerflex ARB bushes, only cost £12 and take 5 minutes to change
Jack the car up and take the wheels off (obviously!)
Remove one of the bolts holding the a bush in and slacken the bolt on the bush next to it.
Remove the old bush, I used a drill and then removed the excess with some sand paper but some people prefer to dose them in petrol and set the fuckers alight. Take into account though that the fuel take is about 30cm away
Slide in the polybush, you may need to use a jack and a chock. Bolt it back up and thats 1 down 3 to go. Simply repeat the process. The subframe won't need aligning either as it shouldn't of moved (only by a mm at most).
Good mod to improve the handling and relatively cheap
Don't forget the powerflex ARB bushes, only cost £12 and take 5 minutes to change
28-07-2007, 10:30 PM
#49
Originally Posted by Gary_R
No its not under warranty, its 4 years old and done 50k. The noise hasn't become more obvious over time either which would tell me its not getting any worse.
Myself and my fiancee Steff work for a ford main dealer and she noticed that comment and told me to let you know.
29-07-2007, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary_R
Oh cheers for that, is there any particular way I go about asking for this 'goodwill' gesture?
About the goodwill gesture from Ford, i did this once. All you have to do is call in o ring your local dealership and ask them for the customer service number. Then ring the customer service centre and explain that you want to request a goodwill repair and give them all the details.
29-07-2007, 02:37 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by ellalise
StuarTurbo
How did you release the tension on the belt? None of my tools will fit down the space between the tensioner and the inner-wing?
How did you release the tension on the belt? None of my tools will fit down the space between the tensioner and the inner-wing?
30-07-2007, 03:07 PM
#53
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sapph1
Crank-shaft oil seal went ok, new pulley fitted, new tensioner fitted. But can i for the life of me get the engine to move high enough/forward enough to get a rachet in. Did you use a special tool?
Crank-shaft oil seal went ok, new pulley fitted, new tensioner fitted. But can i for the life of me get the engine to move high enough/forward enough to get a rachet in. Did you use a special tool?
30-07-2007, 08:03 PM
#54
Yeah, there is a special tool, if you look at the old tensioner, there are two square holes in it that the tool goes into and then you lever down on the tensioner. I must admit that i've not tried it with a ratchet, have you tried lowering the engine down and trying to get to it through the os inner wing/wheel arch? when using the special tool, you use it from underneath, just a thought?
Hope this helps?
Karl
Hope this helps?
Karl
30-07-2007, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by sapph1
Yeah, there is a special tool, if you look at the old tensioner, there are two square holes in it that the tool goes into and then you lever down on the tensioner. I must admit that i've not tried it with a ratchet, have you tried lowering the engine down and trying to get to it through the os inner wing/wheel arch? when using the special tool, you use it from underneath, just a thought?
Hope this helps?
Karl
Hope this helps?
Karl
Finally done it. I stood for ages looking at it, to see how i could lever it doen without the special tool. I couldn't lift it high enough, nor forward enough, nor low enough. I even tried undoing the tensioner, putting the belt on and trying to contract the tensioner. Absolutely no chance.
I could see the two holes but i have nothing slim enough to fit.
In the end i put the top engine mounting back, re-connected the roll-restricter, fastened the tensioner back up and then from above, with a big steel bar and a block of wood against the engine mounting i found i could lever it down. Bingo!
Easy when you know how.
The clattering from the pulley's gone now.
Thanks for all your help!
30-07-2007, 09:08 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by sapph1
Yeah, there is a special tool, if you look at the old tensioner, there are two square holes in it that the tool goes into and then you lever down on the tensioner. I must admit that i've not tried it with a ratchet, have you tried lowering the engine down and trying to get to it through the os inner wing/wheel arch? when using the special tool, you use it from underneath, just a thought?
Hope this helps?
Karl
Hope this helps?
Karl
Finally done it. I stood for ages looking at it, to see how i could lever it doen without the special tool. I couldn't lift it high enough, nor forward enough, nor low enough. I even tried undoing the tensioner, putting the belt on and trying to contract the tensioner. Absolutely no chance.
I could see the two holes but i have nothing slim enough to fit.
In the end i put the top engine mounting back, re-connected the roll-restricter, fastened the tensioner back up and then from above, with a big steel bar and a block of wood against the engine mounting i found i could lever it down. Bingo!
Easy when you know how.
The clattering from the pulley's gone now.
Thanks for all your help!
05-01-2008, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sapph1
No problem mate!
Glad i could help and glad you've sorted it, they sound terrible when they're rattling dont they! lol
Cheers Karl
Glad i could help and glad you've sorted it, they sound terrible when they're rattling dont they! lol
Cheers Karl
http://www.fordmondeo.org/forum/show...?post/1374231/
Mondeo 2002 (March) TDCi 130 (about 61,000 miles).
For about a year now, every so often the car wouldn't start and the glow plug warning light flashes. Turn the ignition off, back on, and hey presto! It starts. It has always started first turn normally.
But the other day the light started flashing whilst i was driving and power was noticeably down. So i think it went into 'limp home mode'? Got home but when i went to start it the next day, it wouldn't. Even trying the usual 'switch-off & back-on' didn't work.
I have read the articles on EGR valves & Camshaft/Crankshaft sensors. Will the fault codes tell me what it is?
1) Is there a way to start it to get it to a garage?
2) How do i get the fault codes out?
3) How do i reset the ECU to clear it?
Can anyone help?
05-01-2008, 09:19 PM
#59
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Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor today (£15 from Fords) but it ain't made no difference. GlowPlug warning lights still flashing and after 2-3 mins of cranking she won't fire up.
Do you think the injectors need recoding/remapping? If so, why did they lose their coding/mapping?
Whilst i was in Ford's, they said a TSB have been raised for the connector for the CPS but they wanted £37 plus for a piece of plastic and three small pieces of wire! WTF?
Do you think the injectors need recoding/remapping? If so, why did they lose their coding/mapping?
Whilst i was in Ford's, they said a TSB have been raised for the connector for the CPS but they wanted £37 plus for a piece of plastic and three small pieces of wire! WTF?
05-01-2008, 09:19 PM
#60
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Just one more thing if anyone can help before i replace the engine...
When i'm cranking the engine there is a sort of muted beeping sound. A dull metallic sort of buzz. It comes and goes with the ignition being turned on and off?
When i'm cranking the engine there is a sort of muted beeping sound. A dull metallic sort of buzz. It comes and goes with the ignition being turned on and off?
05-01-2008, 10:27 PM
#61
Originally Posted by ellalise
Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor today (£15 from Fords) but it ain't made no difference. GlowPlug warning lights still flashing and after 2-3 mins of cranking she won't fire up.
Do you think the injectors need recoding/remapping? If so, why did they lose their coding/mapping?
Whilst i was in Ford's, they said a TSB have been raised for the connector for the CPS but they wanted £37 plus for a piece of plastic and three small pieces of wire! WTF?
Do you think the injectors need recoding/remapping? If so, why did they lose their coding/mapping?
Whilst i was in Ford's, they said a TSB have been raised for the connector for the CPS but they wanted £37 plus for a piece of plastic and three small pieces of wire! WTF?
As i said in my PM mate, best thing to do is get it to the nearest Ford dealer and get them to read what codes IDS comes up with, without this to start with, you're clutching at straws really and you'll probably keep spending money on parts you dont need and not fixing it.
05-01-2008, 11:16 PM
#62
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Originally Posted by ellalise
Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor today (£15 from Fords) but it ain't made no difference. GlowPlug warning lights still flashing and after 2-3 mins of cranking she won't fire up.
Do you think the injectors need recoding/remapping? If so, why did they lose their coding/mapping?
Whilst i was in Ford's, they said a TSB have been raised for the connector for the CPS but they wanted £37 plus for a piece of plastic and three small pieces of wire! WTF?
Do you think the injectors need recoding/remapping? If so, why did they lose their coding/mapping?
Whilst i was in Ford's, they said a TSB have been raised for the connector for the CPS but they wanted £37 plus for a piece of plastic and three small pieces of wire! WTF?
As said, needs codes reading to find cause, my guess is the injectors are leaking back too much fuel and you've got low fuel pressure causing FIP to request engine stop, or in your case, no engine start.
Ford dealers have a special tool which is 4x clear pipe about 25cm long with 4x 50ml clear bottles used to check fuel return on a 5sec crank, 1 minute run test, 4 min and so on.Spray some brake cleaner/easy start whatever up the inlet and see if it fires on that, rules out any base engine faults.
If it doesn't start on that, take off the oil filler cap and turn the engine over by hand until you see a 10mm headed bolt, if that is not tight, or won't tighten up the timing chain has jumped, it rips the thread out of the cam carrier. New head/cam carrier casing req'd.
06-01-2008, 04:22 PM
#63
my mondeo is the same 2001 y-reg tddi,it starts great if warm but sometimes need a jump when cold,as the battery goes flat after a few min cranking over,easystart gets it going but a temp fix,i really need it sorted and it says no faults found at ford
06-01-2008, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by GVK.
Originally Posted by ellalise
Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor today (£15 from Fords) but it ain't made no difference. GlowPlug warning lights still flashing and after 2-3 mins of cranking she won't fire up.
Do you think the injectors need recoding/remapping? If so, why did they lose their coding/mapping?
Whilst i was in Ford's, they said a TSB have been raised for the connector for the CPS but they wanted £37 plus for a piece of plastic and three small pieces of wire! WTF?
Do you think the injectors need recoding/remapping? If so, why did they lose their coding/mapping?
Whilst i was in Ford's, they said a TSB have been raised for the connector for the CPS but they wanted £37 plus for a piece of plastic and three small pieces of wire! WTF?
As said, needs codes reading to find cause, my guess is the injectors are leaking back too much fuel and you've got low fuel pressure causing FIP to request engine stop, or in your case, no engine start.
Ford dealers have a special tool which is 4x clear pipe about 25cm long with 4x 50ml clear bottles used to check fuel return on a 5sec crank, 1 minute run test, 4 min and so on.Spray some brake cleaner/easy start whatever up the inlet and see if it fires on that, rules out any base engine faults.
If it doesn't start on that, take off the oil filler cap and turn the engine over by hand until you see a 10mm headed bolt, if that is not tight, or won't tighten up the timing chain has jumped, it rips the thread out of the cam carrier. New head/cam carrier casing req'd.
25-10-2008, 12:08 AM
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I have a problem with the tick-over on my 04 tdci130. When starting and stopping in traffic the revs momentarily dip down to about 600rpm then return to tick-over at 750rpm which causes an engine shudder. Its not a problem while the car is rolling as the revs stay higher but it is a pain when I pull up. I was told it could be the fuel filter but a new one has made no difference. Is it a sensor problem? Also I get a vibration (almost like an exhaust blow) going through 1800-2000 revs when accelerating in higher gears. Is this caused by the turbo or the cat or what? All this goes on while the bottom pulley rattles it's nuts off! ARRRGH! Please help!
10-07-2010, 04:47 PM
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hiya...
im new here, but not new to mondeos "rumblings"......
there seems to be the following
"big metal bin of spanners rolled down the street" = DMF
"regular knocky/tappy noise to 1000 rpm" = injector
"rumbly sound, worse on tickover, worse again with AC on" = aux belt tensioner
you can have any combination of course
a "slipping clutch" can also be the DMF, its the springs deciding to call time
BTW, a better DMF is available from Sachs (planetary DMF)
Forte cleaner quietened down my injector, but only till i filled up with fuel, i do 850 miles a week/school run/taxi and get 50mpg
im new here, but not new to mondeos "rumblings"......
there seems to be the following
"big metal bin of spanners rolled down the street" = DMF
"regular knocky/tappy noise to 1000 rpm" = injector
"rumbly sound, worse on tickover, worse again with AC on" = aux belt tensioner
you can have any combination of course
a "slipping clutch" can also be the DMF, its the springs deciding to call time
BTW, a better DMF is available from Sachs (planetary DMF)
Forte cleaner quietened down my injector, but only till i filled up with fuel, i do 850 miles a week/school run/taxi and get 50mpg
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