removing swirl marks??
#42
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Originally Posted by Rick
DROPTOP
Any true pro will use a variable speed rotary.
Any true pro will use a variable speed rotary.
on the ag thing i dont know why exactly but something to do with the ingredients lol (told by a pro and who am i to argue with him? ). i use ag resin polish and its better than the wilko's stuff i used on my escort but personally im not gay enough to care if its trashing my paint lol
#43
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what is a porta cable anyone got pics?
i have just started to use drying towels instead of a leather and it is soooooo much better its unreal i also started to use the terry towels for applying and removing the polish and they too are much better than the cloths i used to use that leave bits all over the car washable too
at the mo im trying meg's gold class shampoo & gold class polish
i have just started to use drying towels instead of a leather and it is soooooo much better its unreal i also started to use the terry towels for applying and removing the polish and they too are much better than the cloths i used to use that leave bits all over the car washable too
at the mo im trying meg's gold class shampoo & gold class polish
#45
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Originally Posted by M K
what is a porta cable anyone got pics?
i have just started to use drying towels instead of a leather and it is soooooo much better its unreal i also started to use the terry towels for applying and removing the polish and they too are much better than the cloths i used to use that leave bits all over the car washable too
at the mo im trying meg's gold class shampoo & gold class polish
i have just started to use drying towels instead of a leather and it is soooooo much better its unreal i also started to use the terry towels for applying and removing the polish and they too are much better than the cloths i used to use that leave bits all over the car washable too
at the mo im trying meg's gold class shampoo & gold class polish
Its the one thing i hate about washing my car, spending ages drying it and ringing out the leather every 5 seconds
#46
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Originally Posted by GTi_iTG
Originally Posted by M K
what is a porta cable anyone got pics?
i have just started to use drying towels instead of a leather and it is soooooo much better its unreal i also started to use the terry towels for applying and removing the polish and they too are much better than the cloths i used to use that leave bits all over the car washable too
at the mo im trying meg's gold class shampoo & gold class polish
i have just started to use drying towels instead of a leather and it is soooooo much better its unreal i also started to use the terry towels for applying and removing the polish and they too are much better than the cloths i used to use that leave bits all over the car washable too
at the mo im trying meg's gold class shampoo & gold class polish
Its the one thing i hate about washing my car, spending ages drying it and ringing out the leather every 5 seconds
i can dry my whole car properly without having to ring it out once gutted i never found out about these sooner realy
#48
#49
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Gaz does know his shit.
Kev, very similar to what i use
My car is pretty swirly at the mo. Harsh winter, and generally not caring for it soon builds up swirls. They are only light, but it still many hours to get them out.
Kev, very similar to what i use
My car is pretty swirly at the mo. Harsh winter, and generally not caring for it soon builds up swirls. They are only light, but it still many hours to get them out.
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This is done with
Wash: Meguiars gold class shampoo
Dry: Vileda Flunkey chamois
Polish: Meguiars Gold class (left on car for 30 minutes)
Finish: Autoglym gold glass (left on car for 1 hour)
The results with the autoglym gold class are unreal, i think its superb stuff!!
Wash: Meguiars gold class shampoo
Dry: Vileda Flunkey chamois
Polish: Meguiars Gold class (left on car for 30 minutes)
Finish: Autoglym gold glass (left on car for 1 hour)
The results with the autoglym gold class are unreal, i think its superb stuff!!
#51
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Originally Posted by rabmc
Yep , i polished the shit out of my 3 door last week (black) and in certain light it was swirly
Washed, then auto glym super resin , then extra gloss protection , did`nt really notice it once i put on the later though , someone mentioned "mopping" if this is the corrt word lol , says its the real deal ? has this been mentioned yet
Washed, then auto glym super resin , then extra gloss protection , did`nt really notice it once i put on the later though , someone mentioned "mopping" if this is the corrt word lol , says its the real deal ? has this been mentioned yet
also swirl marks are caused by incorrect washing technique, one of these ways is using a sponge and trapping grit between the sponge and bodywork therefore pulling the grit across the surface of the paint and causing swirl marks!
swirl marks are actually fine scratches in the clearcoat of the paint and to remove they need a very thin layer of clearcoat to be removed in order to get the surface flat again. this is done mainly by machine, although it can be done by hand, you will have arms like arnie in no time, and it will thoroughly bore you to tears! machine polishing is the way to go, and as for products try using:
www.cleanandshiny.co.uk
www.cleanyourcar.co.uk
www.seriousperformance.co.uk
for an example of what can be achieved, this is work that i did on a VW passat, before:
50/50 of work area:
and after:
now tell me that doesnt look sooooooooo much better, even you none buftys!!
if anyone has any other q's then post um up and ill try and answer them, or pm me
#53
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oh yeah knew i was sposed to put that up
that was megs #83 on a cuttin pad on a hitatchi rotary (exact same spec/shpae as makita) worked the product for a nice long time and it finished down to an LSP ready finish without the need for a finishing polish
that was megs #83 on a cuttin pad on a hitatchi rotary (exact same spec/shpae as makita) worked the product for a nice long time and it finished down to an LSP ready finish without the need for a finishing polish
#55
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Hitachi's are lovely - but ŁŁŁŁŁŁŁŁŁŁŁŁŁŁŁ
the 83 has brokrn down really well
Metallics are less sensitive - if it was solid no doubt you would have got the #80 out
the 83 has brokrn down really well
Metallics are less sensitive - if it was solid no doubt you would have got the #80 out
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Looking good Scott. I love VW paint, tough as nails and can get ovely depth when worked hard. My Honda paint is crap! so thin and soft
my before and after:
my before and after:
#61
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so what products remove swirl marks by hand then?
is it the polishing or the waxing stage
my plans before central day are to clean the car (wash mitt, no more sponge ) then dry with a drying towel (can i get this from halfords?)
the meguiars scratch x
clay the car
then cleaner polish (megs deep crystal)
then nxt generation tech wax (polish and wax in one)
should bring it up ok for the show.
plan some serious buftying using poorboys and clearkote when i have a little more time
is it the polishing or the waxing stage
my plans before central day are to clean the car (wash mitt, no more sponge ) then dry with a drying towel (can i get this from halfords?)
the meguiars scratch x
clay the car
then cleaner polish (megs deep crystal)
then nxt generation tech wax (polish and wax in one)
should bring it up ok for the show.
plan some serious buftying using poorboys and clearkote when i have a little more time
#62
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Originally Posted by StephenC
its easy to make any car look good in pics. AG is ok, thats it though, ok. I could wash a car in fairy liquid and take some pics of it looking good in sunlight. Get up close and see the swirls in a halogen light. Rotary is what the pros use but theres the clue, the pros. So much damage can be done before you realise whats happened. Keeping it to low rpm will save you from this but as above, a porter cable is much safer and still gives results better than could be achieved by hand and AG.
I allways work under a 500w halogen which shows up stuff like this :
But then looks like this :
Direct sun at the right angle can be just as good.
Just dont look at my saph after winter
#63
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Originally Posted by GTi_iTG
Originally Posted by WD Pro
Nowt wrong with AG products - they just seem to be out of fasion at the moment
Porter Cables work well but take longer to cut back paint (therfore safer) than a rotary.
A rotary in skilled hands will work quickly and very well, a rotray in unskilled hands can burn though paint or in a mild case swap your swirls for holograms, just have a look around your local BM forecort (at dark cars in direct sun)
I wouldnt say the PC was over rated :
WD
Porter Cables work well but take longer to cut back paint (therfore safer) than a rotary.
A rotary in skilled hands will work quickly and very well, a rotray in unskilled hands can burn though paint or in a mild case swap your swirls for holograms, just have a look around your local BM forecort (at dark cars in direct sun)
I wouldnt say the PC was over rated :
WD
This is for people who dont think much of Auto Glym............
Just a normal wash with the bodywork shampoo, no polish/wax
Get over to one of the American detailing forums and look in the gallery's, it's not just about being shiny it's about depth of shine, clarity, removal of swirls and I like my car to look wet when it's done therefore use a Porter cable, Poorboys and Clearkote products
-look out for it at the shows this year and make your own mind up
There are many better prepared cars too, I am new to this and learning all the time
#64
Prices around 20 an hour for Gaz7 or Jobbo (please check with them to confirm) time wise depends on if you washed the car and prepd first ie clay etc
correction and detailing look at around 10-12 hours
Both Jobbo and Gaz use a Porter Cable and have paint depth readers so they know how much paint or clear they have to play with I can and would recommend both
as for sponges and abit of autoglym looking as good no way
Jobbo is also getting good at wet sanding clear
http://bbs.rsownersclub.co.uk/showthread.php?t=112646
correction and detailing look at around 10-12 hours
Both Jobbo and Gaz use a Porter Cable and have paint depth readers so they know how much paint or clear they have to play with I can and would recommend both
as for sponges and abit of autoglym looking as good no way
Jobbo is also getting good at wet sanding clear
http://bbs.rsownersclub.co.uk/showthread.php?t=112646
#67
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i know lol
new cars are shiney...so showing pics of shiney new cars isnt showing us how good the product is! because id be very worried if a new car DIDNT shine!
new cars are shiney...so showing pics of shiney new cars isnt showing us how good the product is! because id be very worried if a new car DIDNT shine!
#70
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Originally Posted by foreverwhite
i know lol
new cars are shiney...so showing pics of shiney new cars isnt showing us how good the product is! because id be very worried if a new car DIDNT shine!
new cars are shiney...so showing pics of shiney new cars isnt showing us how good the product is! because id be very worried if a new car DIDNT shine!
If you see a proper detailed car compared to any other you can tell straight away.
Gotta wash the Honda later, i use a drying towl but anyone find it leaves windows streaky of lets say not the best and you ideal need to clean the windows with cleaner? Just seems a pain when u have got time to do it.
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Originally Posted by Rhys
Originally Posted by foreverwhite
i know lol
new cars are shiney...so showing pics of shiney new cars isnt showing us how good the product is! because id be very worried if a new car DIDNT shine!
new cars are shiney...so showing pics of shiney new cars isnt showing us how good the product is! because id be very worried if a new car DIDNT shine!
If you see a proper detailed car compared to any other you can tell straight away.
Gotta wash the Honda later, i use a drying towl but anyone find it leaves windows streaky of lets say not the best and you ideal need to clean the windows with cleaner? Just seems a pain when u have got time to do it.
#74
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Originally Posted by gingeRS
so what products remove swirl marks by hand then?
is it the polishing or the waxing stage
my plans before central day are to clean the car (wash mitt, no more sponge ) then dry with a drying towel (can i get this from halfords?)
the meguiars scratch x
clay the car
then cleaner polish (megs deep crystal)
then nxt generation tech wax (polish and wax in one)
should bring it up ok for the show.
plan some serious buftying using poorboys and clearkote when i have a little more time
is it the polishing or the waxing stage
my plans before central day are to clean the car (wash mitt, no more sponge ) then dry with a drying towel (can i get this from halfords?)
the meguiars scratch x
clay the car
then cleaner polish (megs deep crystal)
then nxt generation tech wax (polish and wax in one)
should bring it up ok for the show.
plan some serious buftying using poorboys and clearkote when i have a little more time
you can get water magnets from halfords, but try and find a sonus der wonder drying towel, much better! available from www.cleanandshiny.co.uk
i would, wash, dry, then clay, then scratch x, then the cleaner polish, then wax! clay removes contaminants so best do that first
#75
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Originally Posted by AlexF
using a sponge cause swirl marks as does a car wash.
btw AG is not as good other products. I used AG for years - once I tried Poorboys and Clearkote I would never go back!
Alex
btw AG is not as good other products. I used AG for years - once I tried Poorboys and Clearkote I would never go back!
Alex
Try using two buckets and a woolly mitt instead of a sponge. You rinse off your mitt rather than sticking it back in your clean water. This transfers most of the grit and shite and prevents you from making more swirls.
Re: the AG theme.
I used to use AG all the time, have swapped to Zaino and Clearkote products and am not going back. Hardly any residue left and the depth and wetness muuuch better.
The other neat thing are these drying cloths. Why i have been rubbing dead cow skins over my car for all these years i just dont know!!!
Any one know who can PC my motor in the SW area. I have toyed with buying one and an invertor but it would cost me about Ł150-Ł200 plus all the pads and the products.......Plus i wont have a clue what i would be doing.....
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Originally Posted by Paul Ripley
What about the Zymol products?
The Zaino, Collinte wax and Clearkote i use dont make hardly any dust. Very good!
#78
Originally Posted by silverfox999
Originally Posted by Paul Ripley
What about the Zymol products?
The Zaino, Collinte wax and Clearkote i use dont make hardly any dust. Very good!
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Originally Posted by bud-weis
Originally Posted by Rhys
Originally Posted by foreverwhite
i know lol
new cars are shiney...so showing pics of shiney new cars isnt showing us how good the product is! because id be very worried if a new car DIDNT shine!
new cars are shiney...so showing pics of shiney new cars isnt showing us how good the product is! because id be very worried if a new car DIDNT shine!
If you see a proper detailed car compared to any other you can tell straight away.
Gotta wash the Honda later, i use a drying towl but anyone find it leaves windows streaky of lets say not the best and you ideal need to clean the windows with cleaner? Just seems a pain when u have got time to do it.
Steve im trying to save time
#80
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Originally Posted by Rhys
get some meguiars NXT quick spray wax stuff, it's great on windows
Steve im trying to save time [/quote]
I dont get any issue with windows.
I clean as normal (two buckets and megs shampoo), use my squidgy (mixed views on these but i like) and then dry off with a 'seriousperformance' drying towel and it leaves no residue on the windows at all. i guess my squidge moves about 80% of the water leaving my towel virtually dry and streak free.