why do scoobies melt pistons generally
#1
just finding my feet
Thread Starter
why do scoobies melt pistons generally
just wondering, most cossies are down to shite set up or fueling/ignition problems
just wondering if its the same with the flat 4 engines ?
or do they usually have other problems ?
i WAS gonna ask on a scoobie site but seemed a bit cheeky even for me
please try and make this a normal post if poss
just wondering if its the same with the flat 4 engines ?
or do they usually have other problems ?
i WAS gonna ask on a scoobie site but seemed a bit cheeky even for me
please try and make this a normal post if poss
#3
just finding my feet
Thread Starter
thats what i was hoping for tbh
very good odds im gonna be getting a sti but still not 100% yet as i wanna see wha power they feel like and still learning about how to tune them ect
also how strong are there boxes and diffs compared to say a cossie one,,,, generally again
very good odds im gonna be getting a sti but still not 100% yet as i wanna see wha power they feel like and still learning about how to tune them ect
also how strong are there boxes and diffs compared to say a cossie one,,,, generally again
#6
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Modern Subaru ECU's are frighteningly clever - they can detect the conditions of det before it occurs and trim the ignition out accordingly...
If you've ever seen a subaru exhaust manifold, then one explanation becomes a lot clearer - because the exhaust system is on one side of the car, one side manifold has far longer runs than the other side. On the shorter manifold, one of the primaries is smaller than the other...
Think of the backpressure that'll occur on that, the EGT rise and all the other complications and you can see why number 3 is tempremental
A proper set of equal length manifolds will take away some of the two tone exhaust burble and balance the manifold lengths...
If you've ever seen a subaru exhaust manifold, then one explanation becomes a lot clearer - because the exhaust system is on one side of the car, one side manifold has far longer runs than the other side. On the shorter manifold, one of the primaries is smaller than the other...
Think of the backpressure that'll occur on that, the EGT rise and all the other complications and you can see why number 3 is tempremental
A proper set of equal length manifolds will take away some of the two tone exhaust burble and balance the manifold lengths...
#7
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Some geezer was telling me last night it was because the knock sensors dont work over 4000rpm and also because of the shape of the bottom of the pistons they carnt hold oil like a Cossie one does causeing them to get very hot.
Not sure if thats right though
Not sure if thats right though
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#10
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the melt piston because the majority of scoobies are imports and are ran on the wrong grade of fuel.
Aot of my friends have tuned scoobis and none have had a melt down.
They have all had management systems fitted and have been re mapped for our fuel.
The engine in STI classic subarus is a very good one.
Tune them corectly and they wont melt.
Aot of my friends have tuned scoobis and none have had a melt down.
They have all had management systems fitted and have been re mapped for our fuel.
The engine in STI classic subarus is a very good one.
Tune them corectly and they wont melt.
#11
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
the melt piston because the majority of scoobies are imports and are ran on the wrong grade of fuel.
#14
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Originally Posted by abdr500
because they have shit pistons shit manifolds
by changing turbo and intercooler on an STI with a remap they can make VERY fast cars...
Most escort cossies wouldnt see which way one went.
#15
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Originally Posted by abdr500
because they have shit pistons shit manifolds
Anyone that was at the rolling road day at powerstation last summer will remember the UK turbo model impreza that ran 418bhp on super unleaded(463 bhp on race fuel)that was totally standard internally
Was running after market management,the main reason they melt as above is the mapping/mangement as standard is not good enough for high power
#19
just finding my feet
Thread Starter
its a classic sti im looking at by chance
obv im gonna swop the i/c and add a little extra boost but it WILL be live mapped by someone who knows what there doing,,,, if not ill ask stu if he knows anyone who to map them
ive looked on scoobynet and they dont seem to be very "hands on" when modding there cars
so aslong as i check fueling and get a PROPER zorst that looses the sexy noise they make i can cancel my AA membership
ps: ive never melted a turbo car before im glad to say,,,,, but i feel info on gearboxes might be a idea for me,,,,, just cause everycar ive had has needed ATLEAST 1 new box,,,,, including my 1300 escort
obv im gonna swop the i/c and add a little extra boost but it WILL be live mapped by someone who knows what there doing,,,, if not ill ask stu if he knows anyone who to map them
ive looked on scoobynet and they dont seem to be very "hands on" when modding there cars
so aslong as i check fueling and get a PROPER zorst that looses the sexy noise they make i can cancel my AA membership
ps: ive never melted a turbo car before im glad to say,,,,, but i feel info on gearboxes might be a idea for me,,,,, just cause everycar ive had has needed ATLEAST 1 new box,,,,, including my 1300 escort
#20
just finding my feet
Thread Starter
this aint ascoobie slaging thread btw,,,,, im REALLY getting into them again for some reason, i was gonna get one when i got my cossie but for some reason i belived a old ford sierra family car was a better car to buy,,,,, IF ONLY THEN I KNEW ABOUT AIRCON
#21
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Melted/pitted pistons (any cylinder) can be caused by detonation (weak mixture) and is more commonly seen on modded cars where the ecu hasn't been remapped to support the mods. Common candidates are decatting and induction kits without a remap - esp if coupled with runnin lower octane fuel.
A remap,de-cat and air filter could easily see an extra 40+bhp and a lot more drive-ability.
Piston 3 is more prone because it sits at the end of the fuel rail, which is why some ppl fit a parallel fuel rail and upgrade the fuel pump.Most mapper wont take a standard WRX for example past 260bhp-270bhp with the standard fuel pump as it starts running out of steam.
Piston 3 is furthest away from the oil pump so any drop in oil pressure will be felt here the hardest.
In addition to all that No 3 has the up-pipe running alongside so it is also the hottest (hence wrapping a decat up-pipe).
Decent mappers in the scooby world might be Bob rawl,Andy F,pavlo, richard bulmer and pat herborn and TSL.
Some people have seen 360-370bhp on standard WRX internals,gearbox doesnt really like that power,but if treated with sympathy can be done.
The sti goes a bit further obviousley.
hope this helps.
A remap,de-cat and air filter could easily see an extra 40+bhp and a lot more drive-ability.
Piston 3 is more prone because it sits at the end of the fuel rail, which is why some ppl fit a parallel fuel rail and upgrade the fuel pump.Most mapper wont take a standard WRX for example past 260bhp-270bhp with the standard fuel pump as it starts running out of steam.
Piston 3 is furthest away from the oil pump so any drop in oil pressure will be felt here the hardest.
In addition to all that No 3 has the up-pipe running alongside so it is also the hottest (hence wrapping a decat up-pipe).
Decent mappers in the scooby world might be Bob rawl,Andy F,pavlo, richard bulmer and pat herborn and TSL.
Some people have seen 360-370bhp on standard WRX internals,gearbox doesnt really like that power,but if treated with sympathy can be done.
The sti goes a bit further obviousley.
hope this helps.
#22
10K+ Poster!!
Originally Posted by abdr500
each to ther own....£5.000 spent on the cosworth will be alot faster than a scooby that had £5.000 spent on it simple
#24
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Originally Posted by St3V3_C
Someone said the MAF can cause problems from phsical abuse or dirt, making them run lean.
I really don't know how true that is though
I really don't know how true that is though
Induction kits can SOMETIMES give vibration and the wire can break in the maf and thus makes the mixture lean out, or the oil from the air filter can stick to the MAF wire and fook it up.
When you fit the induction kit, you need to take away all the airbox in the inner wing,this absorbs any vibration that might be caused.
A simple "green" pannel air filter will be fine, or some people fit the Sti air filter to thier wrx,not sure of the difference in power gains though,cant be alot though.
#27
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Ginge my pal has the classic sti supposly 420bhp its been thru 3 gearboxes thats for sure now he has a str cut it appears to be fine all mapped and set-up by Clive RC DEVELOPMENTS
Amazin car all the same very very fast reg plate scoobie carbon boot wing doors spent a fortune on it to be honest good side of the 30k +
HANDLING IS SUBLIME WITH FULL LEDA COILOVER SET-UP
Amazin car all the same very very fast reg plate scoobie carbon boot wing doors spent a fortune on it to be honest good side of the 30k +
HANDLING IS SUBLIME WITH FULL LEDA COILOVER SET-UP
#28
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when I was looking for a p1, the MAF sensor are the main problem, They are the big weak spot, all p1 owners change them evey service, 100 quid job mind you. lean out and melt it, that 80 per cent of why they go. best just not having all that leccy stuff, lol 2wd cossie 88 plate.
#31
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (3)
has anyone metioned the big ends are prone to going aswell
the classic scoob suffers with engine reliability in general, you can't say because its a good car with history it will be fine, i saw one with 19k on the clock that had put a rod through the block, but on the other hand i know a guy that had a 100k + one on the origonal engine & he had abosed it for years!!!
the later classic sti's seem to suffer the most with the big ends.
if i was to buy a scoob i would go for a 2001 onwards car, fantastic bit of kit
the classic scoob suffers with engine reliability in general, you can't say because its a good car with history it will be fine, i saw one with 19k on the clock that had put a rod through the block, but on the other hand i know a guy that had a 100k + one on the origonal engine & he had abosed it for years!!!
the later classic sti's seem to suffer the most with the big ends.
if i was to buy a scoob i would go for a 2001 onwards car, fantastic bit of kit
#32
Originally Posted by abdr500
each to ther own....£5.000 spent on the cosworth will be alot faster than a scooby that had £5.000 spent on it simple
#35
just finding my feet
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by big_wig_074
Originally Posted by abdr500
each to ther own....£5.000 spent on the cosworth will be alot faster than a scooby that had £5.000 spent on it simple
great minds and all that i guess
piccys and info PLEASE !!!
greg remember ALOT of the jap boys generally just spend cash rather than look about at options though
and you buying a scooby is GREAT news for me as i know JUST how much of a tight arse you are when it comes to modding cars these days so expect a few calls off me in future
as far as power goes,,,, i aint really driven one YET but i recon 350ish would be fine for me as a end figure,,,,, though i am worried about a 4wd box/diff disaster,,, even the box on my bmw sounds like its near its endings
engine wise though if i buy a new maf sensor, wrap the decat pipe ( the only mod that gets spoke about on scoobynet,,,, hence why i didnt se em as DIY ) then i need to look at the big ends,,, what options for big ends are there aswell then matt as i know you must ahve worked with a few at powers
oh and aint gonna get a bug eye scooby for 2 reasons,, they are ugley and cost more money, the only reason ugley birds who aint got a job dont get married,,,, id rather marry a fit bird on benifits and thats the same as i look at when buying a car,,,,,, just like greg
#36
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Originally Posted by GUZZLER
has anyone metioned the big ends are prone to going aswell
the classic scoob suffers with engine reliability in general, you can't say because its a good car with history it will be fine, i saw one with 19k on the clock that had put a rod through the block, but on the other hand i know a guy that had a 100k + one on the origonal engine & he had abosed it for years!!!
the later classic sti's seem to suffer the most with the big ends.
if i was to buy a scoob i would go for a 2001 onwards car, fantastic bit of kit
the classic scoob suffers with engine reliability in general, you can't say because its a good car with history it will be fine, i saw one with 19k on the clock that had put a rod through the block, but on the other hand i know a guy that had a 100k + one on the origonal engine & he had abosed it for years!!!
the later classic sti's seem to suffer the most with the big ends.
if i was to buy a scoob i would go for a 2001 onwards car, fantastic bit of kit
#37
just finding my feet
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by st3v3
LETS KEEP IT NICE GUYS
not like how these sort of thereads normally go
not like how these sort of thereads normally go
even i went from blue oval to blue flying prop,,,,, now ive got money behind me its time to go jap rather than go back to blue oval and have to keep driving my cossie with 5 quids worth of fuel in it all the time
oh is there a way i can fit a t34 to a scooby,,, reason i ask is ive got one from my cossie that i may aswell use i guess
guess the secs ecu is pushing it though
#39
PassionFord Post Whore!!
rebuild could be any where from £2000 upwards.
£2000 would get you an engine built,in place but a standard one at that.
Thats not a DIY rebuilt item,thats a drive in/out basis,
diy well that could be cheaper.
Take a look here this will give you a good idea of everything
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-tec...=rebuild+costs
£2000 would get you an engine built,in place but a standard one at that.
Thats not a DIY rebuilt item,thats a drive in/out basis,
diy well that could be cheaper.
Take a look here this will give you a good idea of everything
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-tec...=rebuild+costs