To those who have the ST170 brakes on there Escort RST
13-08-2004, 09:58 AM
#1
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To those who have the ST170 brakes on there Escort RST
I am getting crazy here...please help me out...
I got an Escort S2 RST and have taken of the ABS and original brakes + brake lines. After that the ST170 capilars, discs and pads came on with the spacers and normal Escort brake lines, because of the ABS removal. I had to switch the mastercylinder so I could connect the original Escort brake lines.
After all this was done I started to bleed the brakes. I noticed that the system was bleeding very poor out of ALL the 4 brake lines. My car wasnt lifted, so all the wheels were on the ground. I have also tried to bleed the system with 2 bar of pressure on my mastercylinder, but not a diffrent affect. To be sure this had not to do with the mastercylinder and the brake booster, I switched these 2 items (which only has to do with the pressure on the whole system) with the ones on my other car...a normal 1.6 GT escort. AGAIN I had the same effect while bleeding the system.....
Now what the H#$%LL can be the problem ?
- If the brake lines that I changed for the 2 front wheels have been slipped (because I got them second hand), then the 2 brake lines for my rear wheels would have bleeded right ? So I dont think this is the problem.
- Because the ST170 capilars are bigger...do I need a diffrent mastercylinder ?
Anybody has other ideas ? Major thanks !!!
I got an Escort S2 RST and have taken of the ABS and original brakes + brake lines. After that the ST170 capilars, discs and pads came on with the spacers and normal Escort brake lines, because of the ABS removal. I had to switch the mastercylinder so I could connect the original Escort brake lines.
After all this was done I started to bleed the brakes. I noticed that the system was bleeding very poor out of ALL the 4 brake lines. My car wasnt lifted, so all the wheels were on the ground. I have also tried to bleed the system with 2 bar of pressure on my mastercylinder, but not a diffrent affect. To be sure this had not to do with the mastercylinder and the brake booster, I switched these 2 items (which only has to do with the pressure on the whole system) with the ones on my other car...a normal 1.6 GT escort. AGAIN I had the same effect while bleeding the system.....
Now what the H#$%LL can be the problem ?
- If the brake lines that I changed for the 2 front wheels have been slipped (because I got them second hand), then the 2 brake lines for my rear wheels would have bleeded right ? So I dont think this is the problem.
- Because the ST170 capilars are bigger...do I need a diffrent mastercylinder ?
Anybody has other ideas ? Major thanks !!!
13-08-2004, 10:06 AM
#2
YOU NEED A NON ABS SERVO AND LINES USING THE COMPENSATORS AT THE FRONT AND REMOVE THEM FROM THE REAR!
COMPENSATORS AT THE FRONT WORK A LOT BETTER
LESS LINES FOR FLUID TO EXPAND IN IF YOU USE THE RIGHT ONES (early 1.6/ORIONS etc)
USE A 23 RATING CYLIDER AS THE ABS ONES (25) ARE SHITE!
Hope this helps a bit, if not check out the site where we have fitted them about 10 times before this may help you a bit more in depth
COMPENSATORS AT THE FRONT WORK A LOT BETTER
LESS LINES FOR FLUID TO EXPAND IN IF YOU USE THE RIGHT ONES (early 1.6/ORIONS etc)
USE A 23 RATING CYLIDER AS THE ABS ONES (25) ARE SHITE!
Hope this helps a bit, if not check out the site where we have fitted them about 10 times before this may help you a bit more in depth
13-08-2004, 02:41 PM
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major thanks Jano !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2 questions:
* I did not remove the rear compensators !! Can this be the problem that non of the 4 lines are bleeding correctly ?
* Do I need early 1.6/orion lines from the M.cylinder to the back if I am going to remove the rear compensators ? Or shall I just extend the lines ? advise ?
2 questions:
* I did not remove the rear compensators !! Can this be the problem that non of the 4 lines are bleeding correctly ?
* Do I need early 1.6/orion lines from the M.cylinder to the back if I am going to remove the rear compensators ? Or shall I just extend the lines ? advise ?
13-08-2004, 03:06 PM
#4
CHNAGE the whole lot. 
This will eliminate the rear compensators
This way you will have spot on braking EVEN without a bias valve.
The problem your getting could be just the air trapped (COMMON ON REAR BRAKE CONVERSIONS) or a fault with components. From here its very hard to be able to give you an accurate awnser all i can do is offer you the best way of using your components you have.
To bleed the back brakes you should not have the calipers bolted to the hub, if you postion them at the highest point when {starting} to bleed the air should come out easy. Also if you jack the car as high as you can to start with at the rear, this also makes it easier to get the air out to start with, but after you have got out most of the air out when up high on a jack, you should finish the procedure at the lowest level you can then you should have wicked braking.
Hope that make a little sense
cos i cant make no head nor tail of it now? 
This will eliminate the rear compensatorsThis way you will have spot on braking EVEN without a bias valve.
The problem your getting could be just the air trapped (COMMON ON REAR BRAKE CONVERSIONS) or a fault with components. From here its very hard to be able to give you an accurate awnser all i can do is offer you the best way of using your components you have.
To bleed the back brakes you should not have the calipers bolted to the hub, if you postion them at the highest point when {starting} to bleed the air should come out easy. Also if you jack the car as high as you can to start with at the rear, this also makes it easier to get the air out to start with, but after you have got out most of the air out when up high on a jack, you should finish the procedure at the lowest level you can then you should have wicked braking.
Hope that make a little sense
cos i cant make no head nor tail of it now?
13-08-2004, 03:27 PM
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no i dont have any rear discs.
i also had not planned to get reardiscs, because I got the ST170 at the front I thought it would be sufficient for about 200 BHP.
i also had not planned to get reardiscs, because I got the ST170 at the front I thought it would be sufficient for about 200 BHP.
13-08-2004, 03:33 PM
#7
yeah it will be fine
You still will benifit with the above lines talked about!
Even more so now because you wont be able to fit any smaller wheels than a 16in over the ST170 Brakes, so there for the rear compensators wont work anyway unless setup for bigger diameter wheel.
You still will benifit with the above lines talked about!
Even more so now because you wont be able to fit any smaller wheels than a 16in over the ST170 Brakes, so there for the rear compensators wont work anyway unless setup for bigger diameter wheel.
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22-08-2004, 02:21 AM
#9
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Jano !!
It works !!!!!!
the rear compansators were the problem ! when you have front AND rear compansators, the system will bleed very poor ! After removing them front the rear, the systembled as it should be.
It works !!!!!!
the rear compansators were the problem ! when you have front AND rear compansators, the system will bleed very poor ! After removing them front the rear, the systembled as it should be.
30-08-2004, 02:00 PM
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Hi again Jano,
Uh to explain..the post by cosworth3d was me while I was at my friends house.
I told you it worked and it does work, but I have this little problem...
My rear brakes (drums) work to good...my wheels block during serious braking.
How to fix this problem ?
Uh to explain..the post by cosworth3d was me while I was at my friends house.
I told you it worked and it does work, but I have this little problem...
My rear brakes (drums) work to good...my wheels block during serious braking.
How to fix this problem ?
31-08-2004, 03:11 PM
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Ah ok, but I have them...NEW !
I have fitted them on early 1.6 lines, so they are located on the front inner wing.
I have also fitted new brake cylinders for my drums:
What to do ?
I have fitted them on early 1.6 lines, so they are located on the front inner wing.
I have also fitted new brake cylinders for my drums:
What to do ?
20-09-2004, 07:09 PM
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Jano !
Im back with another question
are the rear drums on my S2 escort bigger then the normal 1.6 escort drums ? could this be the problem why my drums are braking to much compaired to the front ?
Im back with another question
are the rear drums on my S2 escort bigger then the normal 1.6 escort drums ? could this be the problem why my drums are braking to much compaired to the front ?
21-09-2004, 04:57 AM
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true
but I have compensators at the front of the car (just like in a standard 1.6 escort) and so I have the strd 1.6 brake lines.
but the rear wheels lock up...I still have the 1.6 RST drums and since they are bigger then the strd 1.6 escort.....this is might be why they lock up ?
but I have compensators at the front of the car (just like in a standard 1.6 escort) and so I have the strd 1.6 brake lines.
but the rear wheels lock up...I still have the 1.6 RST drums and since they are bigger then the strd 1.6 escort.....this is might be why they lock up ?
21-09-2004, 10:07 PM
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You are locking the rear wheels up because now the rear compensators are removed it is allowing full braking to the rear drums! 
If you fit a rear disc conversion that will take up some of the braking force (i believe that rear cailpers need more force than std rst drums do to work) or you need to fit a bias valve
If you fit a rear disc conversion that will take up some of the braking force (i believe that rear cailpers need more force than std rst drums do to work) or you need to fit a bias valve
22-09-2004, 09:33 AM
#25
Originally Posted by AndyRST
You are locking the rear wheels up because now the rear compensators are removed it is allowing full braking to the rear drums!
Originally Posted by Jano_OddKidd
YOU NEED A NON ABS SERVO AND LINES USING THE COMPENSATORS AT THE FRONT AND REMOVE THEM FROM THE REAR!
22-09-2004, 07:03 PM
#26
PassionFord Post Whore!!
WTF
Compensators at the front and none at the rear. THats backwards.
I'll stick with my ABS servo, ABS removed, rear compensators removed and a bias valve, at least I know it works
Scary stuff taking the compensators out the back
J
Compensators at the front and none at the rear. THats backwards.
I'll stick with my ABS servo, ABS removed, rear compensators removed and a bias valve, at least I know it works
Scary stuff taking the compensators out the back
J
22-09-2004, 08:12 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Shings
WTF
Compensators at the front and none at the rear. THats backwards.
Scary stuff taking the compensators out the bac
Compensators at the front and none at the rear. THats backwards.
Scary stuff taking the compensators out the bac
Originally Posted by Shings
I'll stick with my ABS servo, ABS removed, rear compensators removed
Do you know what im talking about tho with compensators at the front????
22-09-2004, 08:17 PM
#30
Not you J...... joo5t
Played for hours on track with mine and when I put soft springs on the front the back locks up
His problem could be due to weight transfer/balance. The fronts are ST size now so theoretically bigger/better. This shifts the weight forward under braking, (nose-diving) lifting weight off the rears, reducing grip - causing the lock up Thats what I get anyway.
If I have to run softer springs because of a poorly surfaced venue then I just adjust the bias valve in the dash to suit.
Try putting 3 people in the back and see if it will still lock up joo5t. If it does you need to reduce the pressure to the backs somehow
J - what you after? (PM )
Played for hours on track with mine and when I put soft springs on the front the back locks up
His problem could be due to weight transfer/balance. The fronts are ST size now so theoretically bigger/better. This shifts the weight forward under braking, (nose-diving) lifting weight off the rears, reducing grip - causing the lock up
Thats what I get anyway. If I have to run softer springs because of a poorly surfaced venue then I just adjust the bias valve in the dash to suit.
Try putting 3 people in the back and see if it will still lock up joo5t. If it does you need to reduce the pressure to the backs somehow
J - what you after? (PM
)
05-10-2004, 10:04 PM
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Hello
I am French and speaks a little bit English
, sorry for the faults 
I have a escort rst and I must mount the front and rear escort cosworth brake ... and remove ABS
I will like to know if I must.and why if so, to keep fronts and rear compensators... knowing that I assemble by the same occassion a regulator of presion reglable for the rear system
Which maitre cylinder to use that of XR3í has four exit or that of escort rst has two exit?
Thank you (PS not of words complicated if possible )
Nicolas
I am French and speaks a little bit English
, sorry for the faults I have a escort rst and I must mount the front and rear escort cosworth brake ... and remove ABS
I will like to know if I must.and why if so, to keep fronts and rear compensators... knowing that I assemble by the same occassion a regulator of presion reglable for the rear system
Which maitre cylinder to use that of XR3í has four exit or that of escort rst has two exit?
Thank you (PS not of words complicated if possible
) Nicolas
14-10-2004, 07:31 PM
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what are these ?
Originally Posted by Jano_OddKidd
Originally Posted by AndyRST
You are locking the rear wheels up because now the rear compensators are removed it is allowing full braking to the rear drums!
Originally Posted by Jano_OddKidd
YOU NEED A NON ABS SERVO AND LINES USING THE COMPENSATORS AT THE FRONT AND REMOVE THEM FROM THE REAR!
these are what you mean, right ?
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