xr2i 1.8 16v to 2.0 16v conversion
 

i have just finished a conversion on my mk3 16v xr2i using a mondeo silvertop with EARS ecu and xr2i loom so that i could keep the external EDIS and have got as far as getting it to start. the problem i am having is that it will idle fine but as soon as i put aload on it it only runs on cylinders 1 and 4 i have tried 2 xr2i ecu's both 2FCD and the EARS mondeo one both are giving exactly the same fault i have spark so presume no injectors i have tried a test lamp on all injectors and am getting nothing.

so

is it possible for a car to start without power to injectors

or

is it more likely to be because i am still using the 1.8 fuel rail

i have checked all conections and changed both the crank sensor and cam sensor.

any help would be greatly appreaciated

Has the coilpack gone tits up. Common to run on tickover then shit itself under load

no ive tried two coil packs and have spark at all 4 with both

turns out it was a combination of the timing being 90 degrees out on the exhaust cam and the injectors so have now sorted timing and changed injectors and is revving fine but idling rough presume thats just the fact that the ecu has been unplugged for so long

ECU should teach itself after a short time idling and varied driving if its been disconnected for a while.

Have you swapped the MAF for one that matches the ECU your using?

Also if im thinking right EARS is from an Auto Mondeo so might be giving you a running issue.

yes it is from an auto but the pin out is exactly the same as 2FCD which is also giving the same fault which is the orig ecu i havent had a chance to idle for a while yet as have not connected cooling system as just wanted to get it running. but had presumed that is what the fault was i am using the correct maf for a DEEP ecu but presume they will be the same for both

As far as i know theres a difference with the auto ECUs to allow for kickdown etc but I could be wrong.

When you have the cooling system all plumbed in you should disconnect your battery for a while, then reconnect and try let the ecu learn itself again, you might need to help it find idle using a bit of throttle.

The MAF should be the same for the 2.0s but there are different part no.s between the 1.8s and 2.0s so possibly have different calibrations.

i thought that about the mafs to so bought a new one before finding out that the early 1.8 xrs had the same maf as 2.0 but hey i have a spare now always good. also ref the ecu you may be right i remember something on the EARS pin out that was not on the 2FCD pin out but as it was to do with the auto and the fact that this pin/pins were not in use on the xr i presume this will make no difference to the running what so ever. but if it turns out i am wrong i will use the 2FCD ecu as i am fed up of her not being on the road. if it turns out i cant use this ecu does anyone know if there is a manual 2.o external edis ecu about or am i best going deep, desk,dewy and si loom

Im not 100% on the MAFs but i know some have different part no's.

Well what im using to run my 2.0 in a Mk3 Fiesta is an RS1800 Loom and ECU. The RS1800 uses external edis just like the 16V XR2i so im using basically the same set up as you and it works (its slightly overfuelling at the moment but i'll sort that once its all back together)

the 2FCD (XR2i) ecu shouldnt have a problem with running the 2.0 except for maybe losing out towards the top end when fuelling might be an issue.


If you cant get the ecu to re-learn itself when you have things built back up you should start looking for other issues like air leaks around the throttle body/inlet manifold or anything else that could give you running issues. I managed to sort a starting issue to an incorrect gasket being used that blocked off the idle speed control valve.


Last thing that i can think of, but is probably a long shot. The xr2i throttle body is a lot smaller than an rs1800 or 2.0, it might not be providing enough air to idle correctly. Like i said its a long shot.

im already using the 2.0 throttle body hopefully running it tomorrow will do it the world of good but cheers for the ideas and i shall see how i get on 2moro

No bother mate, I had awful headaches trying to sort my running issues so glad to help if i can.

Let me know how you get on

turns out i was sort of wrong about the fault as it seems 100 percent better than it did but only revs upto 3500 rpm ive tried both ecus with no joy the only thing i can think of is tps. should i be using the 2.0 one or the 1.8 one???

TPS is the same mate so swap over a spare one if you have it. theres a way of testing them with a multimeter.

It kind of sounds like its in Limp-home mode. what happens when it reaches 3500rpm?

when it hits 3500 it stays there but sounds as if its dying down do you know the test procedure for it by any chance

ref limp home mode i am getting that with both the orig 2FCD ecu and the 2.0 EARS ecu if that helps

check the plug by the feul rail that feeds the engine. big oval style plug. doing exactly what my van was doing!

was one of the first places i checked couldnt see anything but gave it a good old spray with contact cleaner will have another look tomorrow thoh what was the fault with yours in the end

TPS changed and runs like a dream on the EARS ecu only problem now is tourqe steer lol but i can live with that for now