Running problem
Last week I used Juno leads to start the cosworth which started no problem. Unhooked the leads and let it idle to temp fans kicked in car running fine. Fans kicked in twice more i was just about to go a run to charge the battery then all of a sudden the car cuts out no lights on the dash nothing. Put the leads back on car starts easily it runs fine but within 5 mins it does the same thing. Immobiliser led flashes really quickly along with what sounds like a relay near the ECU. Been told it's the battery that's fucked before I go buy a new battery has anyone had same problem.
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It's either battery or alternator or both.
Both would need testing before replacing |
How do you check the battery and alternator.
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When it’s running see what voltage you get at the battery, a healthy alternator should be about 14.5v
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Ok will try get in the garage soon and see what kicking out
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If your Car has been standing for a fair while the battery could be really flat and gone beyond the point when it will re-charge again.When you were using it before did the alternator light come on? If not you may find it's just the battery which has died which is less costly than having to change both items. Good luck with it.
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The battery is 2 years old but sat from mid summer last year till now. Took it a run a month ago and it was fine bit didnt get enough charge in it. No no light came on last month or last year.
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Originally Posted by jimhc
(Post 6795631)
The battery is 2 years old but sat from mid summer last year till now. Took it a run a month ago and it was fine bit didnt get enough charge in it. No no light came on last month or last year.
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Might be worth taking the battery out and popping it down to Halfords; kindly ask them to do a load test on the battery - round my way they use a state of the art Yuasa battery load tester - this shows if the battery Amperage matches the battery spec. You also get a print out of battery health. They should do this for no charge.
Rick |
I've managed to get a battery from a friend to try it out.
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I have tried the borrowed battery. When the battery is fitted in the car the volt readings are zero when the positive is taken off it has a volt reading. I have removed 1 wire at a time off the positive side and have found what wire seems to be the problem. Can someone tell me what the 3 + wires are that run behind the battery towards the fuse box are so I can try and find the problem. The wire that's causing the problem seen better days as I stripped back the plastics cover.
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some will be powering the fusebox jim .im not sure how many
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This one is quite small then soldered on to a thicker wire. The battery has charge but when all the wires are all connected the battery reads zero when voltmeter is on it. The problem wire is 1 of the bigger of the 3.
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Sounds like alternator is gone and I had exactly the same problem in FEB.
My battery was new, I was driving the car on the road and every electrical of it was draining the battery until it gone completely flat during my journey. I had to used a recovery truck :cry: Alternator was certified dead when the car was sent to my mechanic, so ordered a new 90A with express service to HK from Burton which was quite expensive :cry: https://www.burtonpower.com/genuine-...90-altyb4.html I would have brought from Mike Rainbird if I knew they stock them as the one from Mike is 145A http://www.randbmotorsport.co.uk/sho...?ProductID=389 Hope these information helps. |
The car wasnt running when I checked for voltage from the battery.
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I don't believe this is a battery issue.
I would certainly disconnect the battery until you have ascertained what the issue is, it sounds as if you may have a short somewhere. The two wires you describe are the fusebox supply (which contain fusible links) which as I say in your other thread build resistance and so this would be the place to start. Martin |
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