When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Nicely done Dude! I'll be watching because I have the same plan for my sierra
But I have a few comments
first
after which by cutting a bowl of oil? after all, you can apply this from Mondeo ST220
Secondly
why power steering pump from the sierra?
and third, the last
My plan for the boxes provided for mounting it with rx8 look for information on http://locostbuilders.co.uk/
Well.. If you check closely, the sump I chopped is from the X-type, which is the same as st220.
Used the Sierra PS pump because was easier and this way I could save some space. jag one is the other side.. And about the box, why to fit a different box if the manual option from the jaguar is a getrag, a strong box, only need to change the rear diff ratio to 3.14
Well.. If you check closely, the sump I chopped is from the X-type, which is the same as st220.
Used the Sierra PS pump because was easier and this way I could save some space. jag one is the other side.. And about the box, why to fit a different box if the manual option from the jaguar is a getrag, a strong box, only need to change the rear diff ratio to 3.14
Ok, that's right I did not notice the sump I fortunately do not have to combine that with the suspension of the scorpio some it is easier to fit.
As for the power steering pump only personally wires will beat ... because he wants to keep all the originality engine together with the climate.
Why becausein the jag there is no differential with limited slip and have only 5 gears ...
Huum, I got it. For so many reasons, most of them I don't even remember, I chose to use all Sierra parts as PS pump and alternator, box with 5 gears is OK as I got the same jag rear ratio, but if Sierra rear diff does not handle the power I'll fit some BMW diff with a longer ratio.
Mine is not a racing or drift project, I plan to make it my daily drive
Huum, I got it. For so many reasons, most of them I don't even remember, I chose to use all Sierra parts as PS pump and alternator, box with 5 gears is OK as I got the same jag rear ratio, but if Sierra rear diff does not handle the power I'll fit some BMW diff with a longer ratio.
Mine is not a racing or drift project, I plan to make it my daily drive
Hi people!! been missing, as the Estate TDI has given me no breaks at all! lol and my cellphone died.. and my camera too...
Well, enought conversation now let me tell you how my jag powered sierra goes:
Had some bad luck while we was fitting the loom:
A small screw fall into the engine and did this amazing work:
Result: i cracked piston and 3 valves damaged...
But this is not the end.. One of the best things about this engine is that it is incredibly cheap if you find the right seller.. and the solution found was to buy a complete S-type , paid 500 for all car, keep the engine (200k kms on the dash) and sold the rest of the car for 250.. All ok
Now got a spare engine and all opened i could see that this was a real shame, is engine is almost brand new... whatever...
And the work goes on with the new engine:
Exhaust:
And after a fast mapping the car runs prety well! good power, amazing sound and the front end of this car is much lighter than previously with the 2.8 cologne.
By now the car is running!! not so well as i wanted but is starting good
This is the actual outside look: [/URL]
Here in Portugal everything i do to my car is illegal, even change the tire size from 195-55-15 to 205-40-16 ! for an example.. And because of that, having such deep modifications i must to keep it low profile, black bumpers, 'stock' wheels (the only thing i can make legal in this car :S ).. All is part of the plan to keep authorities away.
And this is my setup look:
That stuff you see in my plenum is the LPG injector Rail. Yes, this car is supose to run LPG... Because i'me building it to be my daily drive
Other problem i still have and dont know how to solve is the speedometer/tachometer.. Is impossible to fit the original cable into the Jag box, and dont know how to use the getrag original signal.
The best way would be to use this solution from Dakota digital : http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd886.htm, but its f...ing expensive!!
I've got a similar speedo issue with mine, Dakota digital is expensive and I'm not sure on how noisy a stepper motor would be
I thought about trying to fix a brushless DC motor directly to the back of the original speedo and trying to use an Arduino to drive it - not sure if it would be accurate enough or whether I'm geeky enough to manage it !
If not you could use an off the shelf electric speedo
...
Here in Portugal everything i do to my car is illegal, even change the tire size from 195-55-15 to 205-40-16 ! for an example.. And because of that, having such deep modifications i must to keep it low profile, black bumpers, 'stock' wheels (the only thing i can make legal in this car :S ).. All is part of the plan to keep authorities away.
....
That stuff you see in my plenum is the LPG injector Rail. Yes, this car is supose to run LPG... Because i'me building it to be my daily drive
....
Well, sugestions accepted
(sorry can't help with the speedo issues,just came to say...)
A job very well done mate!
...and lpg is another very good chioce too!
sad thing about illegal mods after all you've done... i understand 'cause i'm living the same sh*t in here and having my bit of problems too.
however, even stock, your car looks badass, i'd keep it as is... love that!
sorry man.
really, don't mean to troll your threads, it's just a thougth...
if i were in your situation, i'd start thinking about a solution like this: ...
...i'd try to find at the junkyard a complete electronic speedo, with all its needed ancilliaries; like dash, sensor, elctronic management unit (???if there's any).
donno what car from.
then i'd made a toothed ring, (sorta abs like), to be set on the solid member of the half-shaft, just near the diff.
this could be either laser-cut (in here is very cheap), or made out of an aluminium ring (less weight), with tapped holes in it, where put some bolts or grain or something ironish, just to excite the standard speed sensor.
little interference. or play with grains/bolts to fix 'em in position, (depending on what solution you have in mind).
same number of teeth of toothed wheel of the car you take the rig from.
diy a bracket to hold the sensor in the correct position.
if you want to laser-cut it and don't have any cad available, just pm me the dimensions you need. for me take out the unquoted .dwg needed, is a 10min job... (and pleased to help if i can).
however i've NEVER PERSONALLY MESSED WITH ELECTRONIC SPEEDOS, this would be a new situation for me too. so donno sh*t about the real feasibility of my bullsh*ts above.
donno if it's cheaper too...
just trying to help with another input.
good luck with it. keep us posted and let me know if i can help...
Rooos, that is a idea i had so many time ago, but my electronics knowledge doenst help to put it in practice :S know of someone how already dig something simillar?
Mark, i already made something similar but it revealed to be a huge fail lol
Bought a cheap gps speedometer from ebay and fitted it inside my cluster, but the result is very bad, doesnt show correct speed, is always switching off, a complete waste of money.. and time..
That speedometer drived by sensor would be a better option in order to do the same job
A option i exprored in other setup was the scorpio electronic speedometer, but it didnt work to :S Well, im lost in this part of the project :S
Rooos, that is a idea i had so many time ago, but my electronics knowledge doenst help to put it in practice :S know of someone how already dig something simillar?
Originally Posted by dojj
Use the same thing I've got on my pushbike
Magnet on the spokes that counts revolutions
I just had to put in the size of the wheel and it did the rest
sorry dms, donno any who's done that... and the web doesn't help too much too.
dojj post reminds me i'm talking bulls*its (thanks man ): the teeth number should be adjusted in ratio with the rolling circumferences...
the push bike speedo is cheap, simple and immediate. but donno how much it could be a good definitive idea. the 2 wheel input is great though.
there are also many cheap kits for sale on the web for motorcycles or big scooters (cheapest are chinese...).
you may also strip down something at the junk, and make your own kit.
many of 'em have the toothed wheel on the front disc, with many teeth. so some good precision may be achieved... (may be)
big downside is that rarely the ones which read above 160 km/h, haven't got a useless 12krpm+ tacho incorporated...
instead, if you have an arduino unit available, you may find a good input this one...
donno sh*t about arduinos, but looks like if you can set signal in, signal out (pulsed gnd?), you can make your own adjustable speedo...
Use the same thing I've got on my pushbike
Magnet on the spokes that counts revolutions
I just had to put in the size of the wheel and it did the rest
That is a cheap and efficient idea, but does it work with the stock cluster or any like this?
Originally Posted by rooos
sorry dms, donno any who's done that... and the web doesn't help too much too.
dojj post reminds me i'm talking bulls*its (thanks man ): the teeth number should be adjusted in ratio with the rolling circumferences...
the push bike speedo is cheap, simple and immediate. but donno how much it could be a good definitive idea. the 2 wheel input is great though.
there are also many cheap kits for sale on the web for motorcycles or big scooters (cheapest are chinese...).
you may also strip down something at the junk, and make your own kit.
many of 'em have the toothed wheel on the front disc, with many teeth. so some good precision may be achieved... (may be)
big downside is that rarely the ones which read above 160 km/h, haven't got a useless 12krpm+ tacho incorporated...
instead, if you have an arduino unit available, you may find a good input this one...
donno sh*t about arduinos, but looks like if you can set signal in, signal out (pulsed gnd?), you can make your own adjustable speedo... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwn9uUR5WM0
just sharing thougths again. sorry can't help more than this...
good luck and keep us posted...
You're already helping a lot bud, thank you
Or i'm to donky or to slow... but.. can anyone here explain what is an arduino?~
That is a cheap and efficient idea, but does it work with the stock cluster or any like this?
...
that's the point...
it may bother replace battery every while. and some models may reset the odometer.
so, if you want to feed a bicycle speedo with the car loom, even if you figure out a way to switch its backlight on with a signal from the position lamps (for night use), you may need to reduce the tension, stabilize and filter it strongly.
sometimes it happens that the electronic, fed by a watch or even a AA battery, is quite weak.
it could start working dodgy and die after a while, under the noise and the peaks of tension due to switches and utilizers in the car.
a motorbike instrument, even a 6v one, should have stronger electronic, as far as i know. (but needs adjustement to make it true).
the arduino needs more than a bit of know how.
bear in mind that at the end, you may spend almost the same money you'd spend purchasing a speedo as an after-market unit. (and i think all the effort you put in that car really deserves it).
but once you beat your head on it and learn how use it, you'll keep the knowledge.
Been missing for some months, but my life changed a lot.. new work, less time.. . whatever..
been working something in my sierra as the time helps, and so many things has been made.. finish the wiring loom, new ACCEL ignition coil, fixed the speedometer... and on and on...
Last step was to tune the ecu. Using the engine totaly stock, VVT on and variable intake, this engine made 231hp and 310nm!! well, may seems a big deal, but this is a NA engine running LPG for daily!
to solve the biggest issue on this project at this time (the speedometer) the only way i find was to order a Dakota Digital ECD 100 from USA. Cost around 250 and took some time to arrive, but is plug-n-play. Problem solved!!
And the biggest pride of all: had a small interview in the FASTFORD mag!!
Is not a big deal, but here in portugal no one cares about this project, is nice to see my car in a FORD MAG
Hi. Greetings from the UK. I enjoyed reading about your conversion. You achieved a lot! I noticed that you had to do a lot of fabrication to move the deep part of the sump to the rear of the engine. Do you have any more photographs of the process please?
Hi. Greetings from the UK. I enjoyed reading about your conversion. You achieved a lot! I noticed that you had to do a lot of fabrication to move the deep part of the sump to the rear of the engine. Do you have any more photographs of the process please?
Hi!
I can do better! i'm developping swap kits for sale , all hard work is done and even the wiring loom and ecu will be available!
Hope it helps
22-01-2017, 06:52 PM
Ford S(ierra)-Type
I fortunately do not have to combine that with the suspension of the scorpio some it is easier to fit.
)
still taking notes man! 
[/URL]
(thanks man 
