charliecossie

iTrader: (1)

I've got a project 2wd cossie with no spark and theres no live to pin 20 on the ecu and the fuel pump doesn't prime when the ignition is turned on.Theres 12 volts on pin 30 at both the yellow relay plugs in the passenger footwell but the relays don't switch when the ignition is turned on,I've tried both the relays in my running car and they work.When you bridge a wire between 30+87 on the relay plugs then the pump will prime and the ecu will show 12v volts at pin 20 on the ecu??? Has anyone had this problem? There isn't an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser fitted to the car.
The car did run but one day stopped and i found a melted live (red) wire at the ignition switch so replaced that and the wire.
Any help is appreciated as its doing my head in now......

DAN-Saff

If you check at the connector where the loom connects to the car loom to make sure you are getting a switched 12v to the black wire when the ignition is turned on which will then power up the relays and you should get power at pin20.

charliecossie

iTrader: (1)

Cool,I will have a look at that 2mora,thanks mate

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

By bridging it you are bypassing the relay essentially, so are you certain this is good, otherwise you maybe missing a live from ECU relay?

Martin

charliecossie

iTrader: (1)

Theres no 12v at the black wire on the bulkhead connector with the ignition on....is that the black and blue wire on the ignition switch??

DAN-Saff

I'm talking about under the dash right? The black wire on the plug 4 other wires needs a 12v it needs to be switched otherwise the car won't stop when you turn the key off. If you have power there it should switch the fuel pump/ecu and injectors.

charliecossie

iTrader: (1)

yeah the black wire behind the dash where the car loom meets the engine loom.Theres nothing there with the ignition on,is that switched by the ignition switch I take it? but what wire is that on the switch??

fraser9764

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like the factory ford imobiliser to me.

charliecossie

iTrader: (1)

I take it thats the black box/relay thats by the footwell? can they be bypassed to check if thats the fault??

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

PM "Turbosystems" I know he knows how to do this, it's only a very simple device to start with, and if you are one of the few that still has it fitted they always cause problems!

Although I diden't think 2WD had them, mine certainly hasn't!

Martin

DAN-Saff

It's not directly off the ignition switch, I've got a car apart at the moment I will have a quick look today for the feed to the blk wire.


If you look on that big turbo site
All sierra cosworth models used a loom which was separate from the car loom, so it is easy to remove it and use in a different application. The 4x4 L8 differs from the earlier ones in that it is a two part loom with an engine section and a scuttle to ecu section allowing the engine to be removed with its loom still attached. On all types there are basically just 5 wires to connect up :-

ground = brown

battery = red or red/blue

ignition switch = black

fuel pump = black/red

rev counter = green

The brown/green wire is not required as it is for the fault light relay on the L1 or the air con on the L8.


I've not found an factory immobiliser on any 2wd I've broken but I have found on a 4x4.

charliecossie

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE: After a long chat with Tony@Turbosystems i've now got live on the ecu and the fuel pump primes and 12v at the coil! have done the check sheet that I found on here and haven't got an AC voltage on the crank or phase sensor when cranking?? I take it the white plug goes to the white plug on the crank sensor? then theres 2 black connectors left, ones a test and the other must be phase sensor? I've buzzed them out with a multimeter to check continuity while the loom was out of the car.

P.S Tony@Turbosystems is probably the most helpful bloke ever! Cheers Tony!!

botters

iTrader: (2)

think one of those plugs is for knock sensor on some models

charliecossie

iTrader: (1)

thanks,I will have to trace what plug is what with a multimeter thats prob the easiest way,mite even put new crank n phase sensors on to eliminate that aswell.

Rob Virgo

iTrader: (6)

Good Info ,we'll done tony

charliecossie

iTrader: (1)

after alot of head scratching today i've replaced the phase sensor plug+wiring and now i've got a spark! Had 700ohms at the sensor then as soon as i attached the loom plug to it,i'd check between pins 5+23 and there would be nothing....so replaced the plug and ran two new wires to the ecu and i've got 700ohms and a spark!!! Gotta charge the battery 2nite as its dead then i reckon it will start tommorow,Thanks everyone for the advice!

DAN-Saff

Excellent