Saff cossie rear arches with pics
#1
Glennvestite
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Saff cossie rear arches with pics
Has your saff had new rear arches fitted and how long ago were they done.I got mine done in 2009 and there scabby as fook again.The back part of the osr arch is the worse.It started off as a small bubble in the paint and now its rotton.
Is there a way to stop them from rotting.I will be getting them done again next year.
Is there a way to stop them from rotting.I will be getting them done again next year.
Last edited by Glenn_; 06-09-2012 at 06:55 PM.
#2
OCD Victim
Cut ALL the rust out first. That means taking the outer skin out and have a good look further along on the inner arch as if that is not derusted, nothing will stop it. Prep is everything on this part.
I find that putting a bead of a 2K adhesive between the two skins (similar to what VW use on their MK5 Golf doorskins) before welding in back together helps a lot as it stops the air and damp getting in.
A good, healthy dose of cavity wax from the inside is definitely required. Not the extra thin, runny stuff, more the thicker versions, and make sure it is warm before applying so that it runs into the small recesses better.
Is your fuel flap seal split? If so, water WILL get in there and WILL run straight into the inside of the osr arch.
Are your rear roof drains pipes relocated to the outside like the 1991-2 cars? If not, they can cause water ingress into the boot floor, which will lead to condensation getting into the arch again.
Are your tyres/wheels too close to the arch? If the arch itself has not been sealed on this edge, both where both panels join, and on the lip behind, that area will get pebble-dashed by the tyres. I have actually had to lift the rear suspension up slightly on one of mine as it sat almost level and rotted the arch away again in no time, even with all the above done.
And finally, before painting, make sure a good thick coat of stonechip has been applied to that lip and just slightly proud of it. It helps to prevent the usual minor stonechipping that everyone gets. Add a good coat of paint over the top and you have done all you can.
MY 4x4 Saff was done in 2006 and is still like new, my other halfs 2000e was done in 2008 and was too low so rotted again. Suspension was lifted slightly and was redone and it looks perfect now.
I find that putting a bead of a 2K adhesive between the two skins (similar to what VW use on their MK5 Golf doorskins) before welding in back together helps a lot as it stops the air and damp getting in.
A good, healthy dose of cavity wax from the inside is definitely required. Not the extra thin, runny stuff, more the thicker versions, and make sure it is warm before applying so that it runs into the small recesses better.
Is your fuel flap seal split? If so, water WILL get in there and WILL run straight into the inside of the osr arch.
Are your rear roof drains pipes relocated to the outside like the 1991-2 cars? If not, they can cause water ingress into the boot floor, which will lead to condensation getting into the arch again.
Are your tyres/wheels too close to the arch? If the arch itself has not been sealed on this edge, both where both panels join, and on the lip behind, that area will get pebble-dashed by the tyres. I have actually had to lift the rear suspension up slightly on one of mine as it sat almost level and rotted the arch away again in no time, even with all the above done.
And finally, before painting, make sure a good thick coat of stonechip has been applied to that lip and just slightly proud of it. It helps to prevent the usual minor stonechipping that everyone gets. Add a good coat of paint over the top and you have done all you can.
MY 4x4 Saff was done in 2006 and is still like new, my other halfs 2000e was done in 2008 and was too low so rotted again. Suspension was lifted slightly and was redone and it looks perfect now.
Last edited by iansoutham; 06-09-2012 at 10:13 AM.
#5
Glennvestite
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My car isnt that low and the tyres dont catch.
My mate kept on saying he was gonna do it but i was sick of waiting so i got a quote from where he worked and got it done there.I think he was pissed off cause the company he works for got the money for doing it and not him.
If the old rust is cut out can it come back again.
My mate kept on saying he was gonna do it but i was sick of waiting so i got a quote from where he worked and got it done there.I think he was pissed off cause the company he works for got the money for doing it and not him.
If the old rust is cut out can it come back again.
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#9
OCD Victim
The tyre is too low in relation to the arch in the second picture. What has happened is that the debris from the tyre treads have effectively pebble-dashed the joint between inner and outer arch which has let the water into the joint and it has travelled from there.
Check your fuel flap seal as well, as I suspect it has perished and cracked.
Check your fuel flap seal as well, as I suspect it has perished and cracked.
#11
OCD Victim
And if you can buy the new fuel flap seals cheap enough, get a couple as they always split eventually due to age and fuel vapour erosion.
#12
Part of the Furniture
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Mine sits as low as that and is still on original arches with no rust ....
But then it has been garaged for last ten year unused , until this summer, but I feel for you , it pisses you off when you do a job like that and it comes back 😡
But then it has been garaged for last ten year unused , until this summer, but I feel for you , it pisses you off when you do a job like that and it comes back 😡
#13
Glennvestite
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My so called mate repaired his own rear arches on his saff.The last time i was round they still looked spot on apart from a small bleb at the back of the osr arch.
I thought is it cause he hardly uses is or is it because he just did a better job of his own.
Did he do a shit job of mine cause he was pissed off about the money and knew in a few years time they would need doing again.
I thought is it cause he hardly uses is or is it because he just did a better job of his own.
Did he do a shit job of mine cause he was pissed off about the money and knew in a few years time they would need doing again.
#14
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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i put new arches in a sierra in 06 and absolutely smothered everywhere conceivable inside and above the arch first in red oxide, then grey paint primer, then Hammerite, then that black tetroseal stuff that gets everywhere. I did it in the workshop making sure everywhere was totally clean and dry first and still today, the arches look mint on the car.
my guess would be that the arches you had put on were prepared and painted, without any consideration for protecting behind them.
my guess would be that the arches you had put on were prepared and painted, without any consideration for protecting behind them.
#19
Glennvestite
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I know spesh is good.I know a lad who said he would replace the osr arch and repaint it for 200 quid.The lad said if im not happy when its done just to bring it back.I dont mind paying a bit more as long as they last longer than 3 years.Im thinking do i get them done before winter or wait till next year.Its starting to piss me off now cause the rest of the car looks ok.
#23
OCD Victim
Undo the phillips screw next to the inner fuel cap.
From inside the luggage area, peel back the inner trim and push the top and bottom corners (about 10 and 8 o'clock if looking straight at the flap) and you will unclick the clips. The other 2 clips will simply fall out as you gently pull the flap unit out from the left hand side. You will see what I mean as you get to each step.
Replacing the seal takes two people normally. Remove the old seal and put the new one in place starting by the flap itself. One person holds the seal while the other slowly pulls it round and onto the housing. It will fight all the way until the last bit slots into place. Then refit is reversal of removal.
From inside the luggage area, peel back the inner trim and push the top and bottom corners (about 10 and 8 o'clock if looking straight at the flap) and you will unclick the clips. The other 2 clips will simply fall out as you gently pull the flap unit out from the left hand side. You will see what I mean as you get to each step.
Replacing the seal takes two people normally. Remove the old seal and put the new one in place starting by the flap itself. One person holds the seal while the other slowly pulls it round and onto the housing. It will fight all the way until the last bit slots into place. Then refit is reversal of removal.
#25
st170 breaking
looks to me as tho it was painted but not sealed up,all those welds were left to rust and rust they did
looks like the arches were thin cheapie jobbies too as they dont look very defined
sure it had new arches and not a new strip of metal to the lip and a rub over with filler?
looks like the arches were thin cheapie jobbies too as they dont look very defined
sure it had new arches and not a new strip of metal to the lip and a rub over with filler?
#26
Glennvestite
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I never seen the new repair arches fitted so i couldnt tell you.I dont think they were sealed properly either.
I helped the lad out loads who did my car.I got him cheap escos wheels helped him prep his saff took am engine and box out of an XR3i for him.Whay do i get back in return fookin grotty arches lol.
I helped the lad out loads who did my car.I got him cheap escos wheels helped him prep his saff took am engine and box out of an XR3i for him.Whay do i get back in return fookin grotty arches lol.
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