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Engine Plumbing Dilemma

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Old 22-07-2012, 09:04 AM
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Jack and the Beanstalk
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Default Engine Plumbing Dilemma

Hi All,

I want to know if its possible to have copper tubing/piping for all heating and cooling hoses in place of rubber ones. I think it would be easer to have robust mounted piping that can be solderd together and would last longer than rubber hoses. The only hosing needed, is to join between inlets and outlets.

The other concern is, will the coolant oxidate the copper pipes on the inside causing the coolant to turn another colour?

Has anybody tried this before?
Old 22-07-2012, 09:14 AM
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R5FORD
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can't see the point in it to be honest, especially when silicon pipes last years. and I don't think you will get the right dimensions etc
Old 22-07-2012, 10:57 AM
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Steve the Plumber
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Jack,

TBH, I don't think it would be possible due to the size of tube that will be needed, and if using copper, you won't be able to replicate the bends as copper won't bend as much and it will be stiff and would keep cracking soldered joints due to engine/trans movement.


All IMO of course!
Old 22-07-2012, 11:03 AM
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i have a small copper elbow under my bonnet to replace a plastic piece, it wasn't me it was the previous owner, it hasn't leaked in the six months iv had it.
Old 22-07-2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bigkevin
i have a small copper elbow under my bonnet to replace a plastic piece, it wasn't me it was the previous owner, it hasn't leaked in the six months iv had it.
Having a small peice compared to doing all the water pipes in copper is completly diffrent.. As said above id be worried about the engine movmen breaking the joints etc
Old 22-07-2012, 06:03 PM
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Thanks Guys for all your comments really appreciate it

There is still one thing I want to know is, will the copper fittings/tubing corrode green from the coolant?
Old 22-07-2012, 09:32 PM
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JFB Tech
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I have done coolant pipes in copper without any issues, the coolant has corrosion inhibitor in it so will prevent corrosion. I used suitable size copper and soldered Yorkshire fittings to the ends to provide a bead for the rubber hoses. Good quality radiators are cored with copper as it gives better heat transfer than aluminium. As said though, you still need rubber or silicone sections between the engine and radiator, heater matrix and header tank to allow for engine movement. Doing it all rigid is asking for trouble.
Old 23-07-2012, 06:23 AM
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Thanks JFB Tech for the info.

Yea I did account for engine movement. I will use silicone sections to join up the pipes. I didnt think about the radiator being it made from copper, I mean I have one. Blonde moment.

I also will make up a whole lot of brackets to hold the pipes in place.

I can't wait to start on that.

Thanks

Cheers,
Old 01-12-2012, 06:33 AM
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Liquid flows into the pump as the cavity on the suction side expands and the liquid flows out of the discharge as the cavity collapses. The volume is constant through each cycle of operation.Positive displacement pumps, unlike centrifugal or roto-dynamic pumps, theoretically can produce the same flow at a given speed no matter what the discharge pressure. Thanks. Regards,
http://www.flameheatingspares.com/

Last edited by wiki; 01-12-2012 at 06:35 AM.
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