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Bleeding brake system from dry

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Old 08-07-2012, 02:17 AM
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BRAMMER
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Default Bleeding brake system from dry

On a 3dr Cosworth

I have a virtually replacement brake system bar the ABS block and tank - all lines under the car rears and complete fronts were removed and replaced with new.

My question is regarding building the fluid level back up in the ABS block - do i just have a mate top up the tank and just keep turning the ignition every couple of seconds for fluid to pass through without too much heat being generated in the block?

I don't want to damage anything in the process so any tips or advice welcome
Old 08-07-2012, 11:49 AM
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Sonic Boom
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When I completely replaced all my solid pipes with braided ones I just left the ignition on and started bleeding from the left rear then right rear then front left and finally the right front. And the repeated the process again just to make sure.
I didn't strip the ABS Block down but all the pipes were disconnected for a couple of days so it was probably drained down pretty well.
Rich
Old 08-07-2012, 12:00 PM
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blue oval 24v
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there is away to do it but cant just mind it will be in haynes manuals.you have to turn the key and put the pedal half way down and so on.try and get a look in the manuals
Old 08-07-2012, 12:10 PM
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martysmartie
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It's well known if air gets into the valve block it causes problems, Haynes don't tell you how to resolve this, they just refer you to a Ford dealer.

Dojj knows how, I think.

Martin
Old 08-07-2012, 12:25 PM
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Brendan
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I would use some sort of pressured system to make sure there is a continuous flow of brake fluid into the top of the system and follow the order mentioned in the manual. PM me if you are not too far from Salford! it is not a difficult thing to do, you just have to be very careful.
Old 08-07-2012, 03:41 PM
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Cheers lads, i know the Sierra sequence it's just the not knowing about going from a dry sytem - i know Ford say that the ABS pump is not to operated for more than 2 minutes if it does you have to wait 10 minutes for it to cool down

I thought if i topped the tank up full then turned the pump on and off a few times that would draw it through then i can use the pressure bleeder to do the rest i just didn't want to fuck the ABS pump up.

Cheers

I'll pm dojj to reply on this thread
Old 08-07-2012, 03:51 PM
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i used my electronic pressure bleeder on mine, left the ignition off and just opened the bleed nipples in the same order i would on any car
Old 08-07-2012, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sonic Boom
When I completely replaced all my solid pipes with braided ones I just left the ignition on and started bleeding from the left rear then right rear then front left and finally the right front. And the repeated the process again just to make sure.
I didn't strip the ABS Block down but all the pipes were disconnected for a couple of days so it was probably drained down pretty well.
Rich
this is the best way to do it, the abs system uses over a litre of fluid so make sure you have enough

it's simply a case of topping up the main bottle and then work from the rear, one person keeping an eye on the fluid level, one person inside the car putting their foot on the brake pedal to operate the system with the ignition in position 1 (radio on) and the 3rd person opening the bleed nipple at the rear (don't matter which side) to let the air out

the pump will pump the fluid around the system so no bother there

by the time you've done the one side you will have enough time to let it all cool down to do the other

the front are done with no ignition just pumping the pedal as normal

if you do get an air lock you can remove it by loosening the middle pipe from the valve block
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