Cambelt change
#1
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Cambelt change
Right Guys,
I am currently carrying out a full service on my 89 standard Saff cos, and have come to the cambelt that I have a few questions on.
1) I have purchased a new belt from Ford and would like to know if the tensioner should be changed with the cambelt as well (do they last), If I have to change the tensioner can an aftermarket one work with ford belt as the Ford tensioner is expensive.
2) Do I have to remove any parts from the engine to gain access when changing the belt.
Any tips or help would be much appreciated............oh and a quick question does anyone have the correct finis for spark plugs from Ford for my car as my local dealer is crap.
many thanks
Zed
I am currently carrying out a full service on my 89 standard Saff cos, and have come to the cambelt that I have a few questions on.
1) I have purchased a new belt from Ford and would like to know if the tensioner should be changed with the cambelt as well (do they last), If I have to change the tensioner can an aftermarket one work with ford belt as the Ford tensioner is expensive.
2) Do I have to remove any parts from the engine to gain access when changing the belt.
Any tips or help would be much appreciated............oh and a quick question does anyone have the correct finis for spark plugs from Ford for my car as my local dealer is crap.
many thanks
Zed
#2
I would just ask the ford ealer for AGPR12PP8, around £40 a set but ace plugs and long lasting, or use IK27 plugs from Matt Lewis.
It is best to change the tensioner as well, all the pattern ones I have bought have all been made in CANADA, where a lot of ford parts are and they are in this case the exact same part as ford supply.
The only thing you need to remove is the timing belt cover if it still has one.
Then it's a case of lining things up, two pointers on cams pointing towards each other left one at 3 o'clock, right one at 9 o'clock, , this should coincide with the crank pulley lining up with the LUG nearest the V groove, do not time on the groove, but the LUG nearest to the groove.
Next look at dizzy, this should havea rotor arm that is in line with the scribe mark on the top edge of the dizzy body where the sheild and cap fit.
When refitting the belt, you will observe one way rotating the tensioner will put the belt a lot closer to the thermostat housing than the other way, so do the way leaves most room, this will mean the run from the left pulley to the tensioner is parralel to the run between the pulleys at top, don't overtighten usual 90 degree with moderate thumb finger pressure.
tabetha
It is best to change the tensioner as well, all the pattern ones I have bought have all been made in CANADA, where a lot of ford parts are and they are in this case the exact same part as ford supply.
The only thing you need to remove is the timing belt cover if it still has one.
Then it's a case of lining things up, two pointers on cams pointing towards each other left one at 3 o'clock, right one at 9 o'clock, , this should coincide with the crank pulley lining up with the LUG nearest the V groove, do not time on the groove, but the LUG nearest to the groove.
Next look at dizzy, this should havea rotor arm that is in line with the scribe mark on the top edge of the dizzy body where the sheild and cap fit.
When refitting the belt, you will observe one way rotating the tensioner will put the belt a lot closer to the thermostat housing than the other way, so do the way leaves most room, this will mean the run from the left pulley to the tensioner is parralel to the run between the pulleys at top, don't overtighten usual 90 degree with moderate thumb finger pressure.
tabetha
#3
Sorry to bump your thread dude,
I'll be doing a belt change on a cossie soon and needed some info too. I take it the cam pulleys have keyways and only bolt to the C'shafts in one Position. I only ask as my G'friends Zetec had a locking plate groove at the rear of the Camshafts rather than marks on the pulleys and the pulleys were essentially free to spin.
Cheers
Ad
I'll be doing a belt change on a cossie soon and needed some info too. I take it the cam pulleys have keyways and only bolt to the C'shafts in one Position. I only ask as my G'friends Zetec had a locking plate groove at the rear of the Camshafts rather than marks on the pulleys and the pulleys were essentially free to spin.
Cheers
Ad
#5
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Cossie standard cams and pulleys have keyways for the pulleys so they will only go on in one position on the cam.
You can however put them on back to front. They actually look better on backwards too as they have more dish. As a check, they go on the opposite way to the distributor pulley.
Possibly do cam seals if you have the rocker cover off. They are cheap and easy to do.
My understanding is that the pulleys on the Zetec rotate freely to allow for perfect cam timing. You actually position the cams in their exact position and lock them, then tension the belt and tighten the pulleys once it's all set to tension. This prevents the movement you get with the likes of a standard cossie set up when you tension the belt.
You can however put them on back to front. They actually look better on backwards too as they have more dish. As a check, they go on the opposite way to the distributor pulley.
Possibly do cam seals if you have the rocker cover off. They are cheap and easy to do.
My understanding is that the pulleys on the Zetec rotate freely to allow for perfect cam timing. You actually position the cams in their exact position and lock them, then tension the belt and tighten the pulleys once it's all set to tension. This prevents the movement you get with the likes of a standard cossie set up when you tension the belt.
#6
The zetecs do have freewheel pulleys, they are becoming very popular, which is good news for modders, as you can set the cam timing where you like and have no problem locking it there, no verniers needed!!
tabetha
tabetha
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