English

Trying to start my brand new shiny engine.

Have installed a Bosch 044 Pump.

I took the two wires that were connected to old pump, and put them accross the coil terminals of my new fuel pump relay in the boot.

I then fused a new pump feed from the battery positive, took it to one side of the switch in my new fuel pump relay, and took a wire from the other side of the relay switch to the positive terminal of the pump.

Then took a wire from the negative terminal of the pump all the way back to the battery negative.

I have checked my inertia switch has continuity across it, and that it's not tripped.

The pump does run when I bypass the new relay switch.

The new pump relay switches when I put 12V across it.

I have tested for 12V to ground on BOTH sides of the plug that feeds the inertia switch and have no volts!

I have tested every fuse in my fuse box and they are all ok.

I am left thinking it's something to do with the original relay or computer feed.

Please tell me where the fuel pump relays are located (would LOVE picture with some circles if someone has time).

As you know, these times are frustrating.

Thank you all in advance!

rog

iTrader: (2)

What model of cossie is it 3dr/2WD/4x4 as there are subtle differences.
The relays are located in the passenger footwell, there should be a cluster of 3 or so, the yellow one is the fuel pump relay, the purple one is ABS, i can't remember off the top of my head much else but i do have pics somewhere.

rog

iTrader: (2)

LINCOLN

iTrader: (1)

Coil polarity? Most coils will not work if polarity not right.

BTW mate - i am coming to Christchurch/Blenheim on a couple of weeks - you got time for a beer?

English

My new relay has diode protection, and I have the Cathode or line side of the diode on the power side. I have tried it around the other way and it doesn't work either.

This is not the issue however, as with the new relay disconnected, the old feed that operated the old fuel pump fine, now has no power there, so the problem is upstream from there. Either the ECU isn't sending signal, or the relays for the original fuel pump circuit aren't switching for some reason.

Rog: Cheers for your help, glad to see I'm not the only one up to his eyeballs in dash ha ha

Lincoln: Cheers too. PM me and sure we can catch up for a beer

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Check CPS also I guess you have just reassembled engine, make sure you have not mis matched the phase and CPS connectors into each other.

Martin

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

I don't know how people manage this - the plugs can't reach the wrong position without brute force and/or ignorance.

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

The ECU switches the fuel pump relay (yellow) on and off, and the ignition switch powers the ECU relay (black I think), which powers the ECU - if that's defective you'll have nothing.

The black and red cable that leaves the fuel pump relay goes to the inertia switch, then the pump.

This diagram (for an L6 but they're all basically the same) might help:

English

Cheers for the diagram

I have a 2WD Sapphire Cossie with an L6 ECU

I have spark so am assuming the ECU is turned on.

I did an ECU fault code test twice and had no codes flash up.

PLEASE CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THE ECU RELAY IS

Thanks! It's day 3 now...

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Does you amal valve work, as this is also powered by same relay (may be ISCV) can't remember which way round now pretty sure it's Amal.

All relays are pictured behind glovebox but you say you have spark so this shows ECU to be working also CPS, I would check wiring from original fuel pump relay back to ECU.

Martin

English

GOOD NEWS!!! (and of course some bad news)

Found a fuse carrier hanging next to the under dash relays you guys showed me with a blown fuse - replaced it and pump primed first time with ignition on! Thanks!

BAD NEWS!!!

Now - I have a big leak from injector 4. Fux sayk!

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff, most likely just a injector O ring needs replacing.

Martin

rog

iTrader: (2)

Good news mate, glad you've fixed the issue!
I know it's a pain but atleast a dodgy O'ring is visible, not like a blown fuse or other wiring fault that can take forever to diagnose. Sure you can find an O'ring suplier that can get you what you need instead of going to the hassle of ordering bits from the UK.

tabetha

I would just pull out the oringinal relay out of the picture, 1 less item to go wrong, you don't need it with it relayed at the rear.
Glad to see you also removed the high resistance points in the earth line by going direct to battery, amazes me people buy/make themselves rewire kits for positive side, then still use a high resistance negative side or bolted to boot floor etc!!
If you have trouble with seals pm me and I'll pop some in the post, but they are a very standard fitment size.
tabetha

English

Thanks team.

Will leave original relay (which has already been replaced once in the past) for now.

14mm o-rings are readily available here, as is electricity, sheep and beer.

tabetha

Just make sure the o rings are petrol proof.
tabetha

English

I'm testing them as we speak Tabetha

rudeboy

iTrader: (2)

... gold !

LINCOLN

iTrader: (1)

You coming this weekend mate? Bringing the 3dr?

rudeboy

iTrader: (2)

Hey Linc,

Yeah mate I'm there this weekend, 3dr an' all! ... looking forward to it after not being able to last year. Be good to see you (and PB)