My Saph. An update on loads of little bits. 13/04/15
#1
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My Saph. An update on loads of little bits. 13/04/15
Well this is how I bought the car back in 2007.
It had a t34 hybrid, 360 thrust bearing, cut back blades. an rs500 intercooler, oil breath system, -31 actuator, group a dump valve, all the blue samcos catalouge, big k&n air filter, koni adj suspension at the front and bilsten at the back. grooved and drilled brakes all round, although i put ebc yellow stuff pads on after wards. front strut brace, pace radiator, 17 inch super lagera alloys with and currently toyo t1r proxes, stage 1 chip 270/280 bhp with 324 ftilbs/torque. the car had a retrim about 6/7 years ago, with black as the main with light grey piping on the edge of the seats. plus the dash was done the same as was the roof lining. the rear parcel shelf also had the leather treatment with the piping also aswell as the speakers front and back.
I bought it for 5 grand,
And to date i have spent another 6 grand modifying and maintaining (repairing) it.
It does have the usual saph problem, "rustitis" on the rear arches and tiny bits hear and there which at the moment i am keeping on top of but later this year will be sorting out.
I took the car to alan jefferys initially to get a fuel leak sorted out then saw a car on the roller and thought hey why not and put her on.
She didnt do very well at first with the fuel pressure regulator way to low and boost right down and only produced a pathetic 190 bhp. <_< with a tweak here and there though it finally made 228 bhp, but the actuator was bust. but as i said in another thread i sorted that out and the car is running 18psi or there abouts so it should be running stage 1 power
I next wanted to change the standard skanking green rocker cover as it looked past its best and bought this one and painted the main bit of it black, the ford bit blue, and the rest of the lettering red. also fitted a set of uprated ht leads and a group a coil
Next I got as a birthday present form my brother an airtec turbo cooler. i highly reccomend these type of things. they dont half keep the water temprature down going back into the header tank from the turbo.
From there I had the usual cossie woes and bits and bobs kept braking. just the standard oe stuff mind which had got knackered with old age and milage lol :blink:
I did my first show at silverstones ford fair in 2008. with the car getting a bit of attention, which I was happy with considering the amount of time I put in getting it ready for that weekend lol. Took me ages to get this photo lol.
With the devon rsoc stand
The owner before the last owner had put a false bulkhead in behind the back seats with a 10 inch hole so i made good use of it and fitted it with my old sub and carpeted it to neaten things up a little
I then bought a rs 4 spoke steering wheel for the old girl as i think they suite the saph so well
I then fitted this which is a sender for my water temp gauge which is with an oil temp and pressure gauge above my head unit. pics of them to follow
Next after a massive hunt in tinernet and finally finding one on ebay I got my hands on this a secs monitor. It goes inline (parrallel) with the ecu wiring and reads out engine temp,air flow temp, throttle position,battery voltage and boost, with alot of other functions to display each type of reading.
This is were it sits also a pic of were the gauges are.
Next I bought a boost gauge pillar pod which again was a pain the the RS to find. i also fitted a 8mm red led which i wired to the sec monitors little led (which is next to the monitor) so i can see if i have any thing running to high ie boost temps etc etc, with a 12v buzzer too
After reading a thread on passionford (cossiesonfire) myslef and a dozen people bought an extinguisher just incase lol
Here are some more of the interior that has been retrimed.
I have also done the Cornwall RSOC regional weekend with the tour day
and the show the day after
Then RS Combe regional day at Castle Combe
Wheres the fire extinguisher?
I have yet to fit my GAZ coil-overs
And the sandwich plate with the oil temp and pressure senders
And the oil cooler bits and bobs which goes with the other sandwich plate and the cooler itself which will sit behind the front bumper air duct.
I have fitted a racetech air fuel ratio meter to with 19 led display and a omp rear strut brace which has improved the handling like mad. will put a pic up of them sometime too.
Hope you've enjoyed reading this thread on my "money pit".
cheeRS
It had a t34 hybrid, 360 thrust bearing, cut back blades. an rs500 intercooler, oil breath system, -31 actuator, group a dump valve, all the blue samcos catalouge, big k&n air filter, koni adj suspension at the front and bilsten at the back. grooved and drilled brakes all round, although i put ebc yellow stuff pads on after wards. front strut brace, pace radiator, 17 inch super lagera alloys with and currently toyo t1r proxes, stage 1 chip 270/280 bhp with 324 ftilbs/torque. the car had a retrim about 6/7 years ago, with black as the main with light grey piping on the edge of the seats. plus the dash was done the same as was the roof lining. the rear parcel shelf also had the leather treatment with the piping also aswell as the speakers front and back.
I bought it for 5 grand,
And to date i have spent another 6 grand modifying and maintaining (repairing) it.
It does have the usual saph problem, "rustitis" on the rear arches and tiny bits hear and there which at the moment i am keeping on top of but later this year will be sorting out.
I took the car to alan jefferys initially to get a fuel leak sorted out then saw a car on the roller and thought hey why not and put her on.
She didnt do very well at first with the fuel pressure regulator way to low and boost right down and only produced a pathetic 190 bhp. <_< with a tweak here and there though it finally made 228 bhp, but the actuator was bust. but as i said in another thread i sorted that out and the car is running 18psi or there abouts so it should be running stage 1 power
I next wanted to change the standard skanking green rocker cover as it looked past its best and bought this one and painted the main bit of it black, the ford bit blue, and the rest of the lettering red. also fitted a set of uprated ht leads and a group a coil
Next I got as a birthday present form my brother an airtec turbo cooler. i highly reccomend these type of things. they dont half keep the water temprature down going back into the header tank from the turbo.
From there I had the usual cossie woes and bits and bobs kept braking. just the standard oe stuff mind which had got knackered with old age and milage lol :blink:
I did my first show at silverstones ford fair in 2008. with the car getting a bit of attention, which I was happy with considering the amount of time I put in getting it ready for that weekend lol. Took me ages to get this photo lol.
With the devon rsoc stand
The owner before the last owner had put a false bulkhead in behind the back seats with a 10 inch hole so i made good use of it and fitted it with my old sub and carpeted it to neaten things up a little
I then bought a rs 4 spoke steering wheel for the old girl as i think they suite the saph so well
I then fitted this which is a sender for my water temp gauge which is with an oil temp and pressure gauge above my head unit. pics of them to follow
Next after a massive hunt in tinernet and finally finding one on ebay I got my hands on this a secs monitor. It goes inline (parrallel) with the ecu wiring and reads out engine temp,air flow temp, throttle position,battery voltage and boost, with alot of other functions to display each type of reading.
This is were it sits also a pic of were the gauges are.
Next I bought a boost gauge pillar pod which again was a pain the the RS to find. i also fitted a 8mm red led which i wired to the sec monitors little led (which is next to the monitor) so i can see if i have any thing running to high ie boost temps etc etc, with a 12v buzzer too
After reading a thread on passionford (cossiesonfire) myslef and a dozen people bought an extinguisher just incase lol
Here are some more of the interior that has been retrimed.
I have also done the Cornwall RSOC regional weekend with the tour day
and the show the day after
Then RS Combe regional day at Castle Combe
Wheres the fire extinguisher?
I have yet to fit my GAZ coil-overs
And the sandwich plate with the oil temp and pressure senders
And the oil cooler bits and bobs which goes with the other sandwich plate and the cooler itself which will sit behind the front bumper air duct.
I have fitted a racetech air fuel ratio meter to with 19 led display and a omp rear strut brace which has improved the handling like mad. will put a pic up of them sometime too.
Hope you've enjoyed reading this thread on my "money pit".
cheeRS
Last edited by kosienutter; 13-04-2015 at 04:48 PM.
#2
Racetech 19 led air fuel ratio guage.
Hello, was wondering if anyone can tell me how to fit one of these. Just the wiring really that is giving me problems, have the lambda sensor and gauge installed, just can't work out what wires i need to run (have lost the instructions!!)
#4
tabetha
#7
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Thread Starter
cheeRS rs kyle, well i can only make rs combe this year on 3rd july with work etc. bugger lol.
update time.
i have sold the coil overs and the oil cooler. as i have now fitted a rear strut brace and i am more than happy with the handling, and now that i have the oil pressure/temp gauges connected up the oil temp tops at 86 degrees so dont feel the need for the cooler.
plus after rs combe (a week after) the old girl is finally getting her rear arches cut out and replaced ha ha at last.
update time.
i have sold the coil overs and the oil cooler. as i have now fitted a rear strut brace and i am more than happy with the handling, and now that i have the oil pressure/temp gauges connected up the oil temp tops at 86 degrees so dont feel the need for the cooler.
plus after rs combe (a week after) the old girl is finally getting her rear arches cut out and replaced ha ha at last.
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#8
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Thread Starter
Well another update.
In one of my other threads I decided to make a turbo cooler fan kit. I wont go into it lol, but the pics speak for themselves.
I then Stupidly put some bonnet spacers on which went down very well with you guys so they were taken off straight away lol.
I finally got my rear arches re-done. . cost a bomb and I am happy with the finish i.e no rust but now I can see a few lines in the arhces which I will get rubbed down to a smoother level when I get some other things painted on the car and when the funds come through, at a now slower rate due to now being married lol.
here's the pics.
from this.
To this
Heres a few of my money pit at my wedding.
I have also now fitted these number plates.
Dont know whats next for the car at the moment. little things like getting the steering wheel re-trimmed and maybe strip the boot out and re-spray it myself as under the carpet is starting to look a bit tired...........................
In one of my other threads I decided to make a turbo cooler fan kit. I wont go into it lol, but the pics speak for themselves.
I then Stupidly put some bonnet spacers on which went down very well with you guys so they were taken off straight away lol.
I finally got my rear arches re-done. . cost a bomb and I am happy with the finish i.e no rust but now I can see a few lines in the arhces which I will get rubbed down to a smoother level when I get some other things painted on the car and when the funds come through, at a now slower rate due to now being married lol.
here's the pics.
from this.
To this
Heres a few of my money pit at my wedding.
I have also now fitted these number plates.
Dont know whats next for the car at the moment. little things like getting the steering wheel re-trimmed and maybe strip the boot out and re-spray it myself as under the carpet is starting to look a bit tired...........................
Last edited by kosienutter; 23-11-2011 at 11:23 PM.
#11
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Thread Starter
well today i tried sorting out my sunroof which was ok going up but not back.
so i took the black strips out above the metal runner's and greased them up and now it's all gone tit's up so for now, i have disconeccted the swith so i dont accidentally move it lol, till i have more time to sort it out.
anyone else had these sort of issues. might put this on the technicalq&a section too.
so i took the black strips out above the metal runner's and greased them up and now it's all gone tit's up so for now, i have disconeccted the swith so i dont accidentally move it lol, till i have more time to sort it out.
anyone else had these sort of issues. might put this on the technicalq&a section too.
#12
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well a bit of an update.
been busy with rewiring the wires to the battery and gaining less resistance. used a nice power distribution block and some big red amp wire for the new bits.
here one of the negative side.
And got some sharktooth alloys fitted to her which i prefer in stead of those jap looking OZ superlagerras.
Next on the list this week is well no-one knows.
I will be re-wiring the fuel pumpwith richie some point this week as i am bearly seeing 10volts at the pump, eeeeeek, sono boostie woostie for me for a while.
i will be getting 2 new tryes for the sharktooths soon and refurbed some point later this year. they look good if i keep on top of them cleaning them wise.
been busy with rewiring the wires to the battery and gaining less resistance. used a nice power distribution block and some big red amp wire for the new bits.
here one of the negative side.
And got some sharktooth alloys fitted to her which i prefer in stead of those jap looking OZ superlagerras.
Next on the list this week is well no-one knows.
I will be re-wiring the fuel pumpwith richie some point this week as i am bearly seeing 10volts at the pump, eeeeeek, sono boostie woostie for me for a while.
i will be getting 2 new tryes for the sharktooths soon and refurbed some point later this year. they look good if i keep on top of them cleaning them wise.
Last edited by kosienutter; 07-03-2011 at 07:44 PM.
#15
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Thread Starter
heres is the positive side of the battery done.
pleased with it. seeing 14.4 volts straight from the battery now.
with the power distribution block fitted behind the battery i have run the wire needed from the battery to the fuel pump ready for fitting with the right relay so i can run the correct voltage at the pump.
there is still some resistance in the wiring to the ecu and stereo wiring etc through the ignition activated circuits i have figured out, as i am still only seeing 13.7 volts max from the ecu's positive output to the secs moniotor, and going down when running other bits of electricals (lights, heater, heated windscreen etc etc). So the hunt is on for the resistance.
Sort of didnt really need to do the wiring to the battery now, but hell it looks a hell of a lot neater than the mess ford did at the factory lol.
pleased with it. seeing 14.4 volts straight from the battery now.
with the power distribution block fitted behind the battery i have run the wire needed from the battery to the fuel pump ready for fitting with the right relay so i can run the correct voltage at the pump.
there is still some resistance in the wiring to the ecu and stereo wiring etc through the ignition activated circuits i have figured out, as i am still only seeing 13.7 volts max from the ecu's positive output to the secs moniotor, and going down when running other bits of electricals (lights, heater, heated windscreen etc etc). So the hunt is on for the resistance.
Sort of didnt really need to do the wiring to the battery now, but hell it looks a hell of a lot neater than the mess ford did at the factory lol.
#21
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done that ages ago and that was when i was lucky to get 13.2 volts if i recall.
i bought this yesterday, so i can begin the resistance hunt.
also got a load of 17 amp wire and this relay
for wiring up the fuel pump with the help of richie later on today hopefully, then i can have full boost again with no worries about the pump dying.
i bought this yesterday, so i can begin the resistance hunt.
also got a load of 17 amp wire and this relay
for wiring up the fuel pump with the help of richie later on today hopefully, then i can have full boost again with no worries about the pump dying.
Last edited by kosienutter; 11-03-2011 at 09:00 AM.
#24
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no lol. 228.
its only stage 1. it used to be 330 bhp but the old owner de-tuned it and put the standard injectors and stage 1 chip back in. i think it is running about 270-280bhp at the mo.
it will be stage 3 again when i decide to rebuild the engine. its done over 130k with out a rebuild so i dont want to stress the engine out and blow it up as soon as its stage 3 lol.
its only stage 1. it used to be 330 bhp but the old owner de-tuned it and put the standard injectors and stage 1 chip back in. i think it is running about 270-280bhp at the mo.
it will be stage 3 again when i decide to rebuild the engine. its done over 130k with out a rebuild so i dont want to stress the engine out and blow it up as soon as its stage 3 lol.
#26
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Thread Starter
got the fuel pump re-wired yesterday with richie.
he did a fantastic job with the wiring, and very neat with the wire protection he used too.
we had to use a lighter (very crude lol) to heat shrink the shrink wrap on 1 occasion as the heat gun threw its toys out the pram breifly. we put a new fuse in it and it still didnt work until i spotted that it wasnt plugged in LMAO.
once the gun was working we got the wiring on all nice and neat to the relay
with the nice wiring covering. to the fuel pump.
through the ususal wire hole.
and to the relays location behind the n/s boot carpet bulkhead using it as the relay and pumps earth. we used the original relay switch wire, cut it, and put it to the new relay.
now we are seeing 13.5 volts at the pump now instead of bearly making 10 volts which is brilliant.
and i can see 14.3 volts sometimes at the secs monitor so there was Stacks of resistance in the old fuel pump wiring.
richie needed More tools from our favorite toy shop Halfords so he hooked up his Innovate afr gizmo and we went for a blast after the shopping at Halfords.
was bezzing around and enjoying being on boost again that much richie told me to stop lol. Probably due to the going home traffic too lol. the car is runnign ever so slightly rich but thats fine. its only a little he said.
thanks again richie.
next on the to do list as my missus keeps nagging me to do it, is to sort the horn out which works buts as soon as i touch the steering wheel or move (slightly lean on the top etc etc) it the horn goe's off.
i have taken the wheel off and as much wiring out as i can with out taking the whole column out. i have changed over the circuit disc's which are right behind the steering wheel boss to no avail.
any ideas anyone.
cheeRS
he did a fantastic job with the wiring, and very neat with the wire protection he used too.
we had to use a lighter (very crude lol) to heat shrink the shrink wrap on 1 occasion as the heat gun threw its toys out the pram breifly. we put a new fuse in it and it still didnt work until i spotted that it wasnt plugged in LMAO.
once the gun was working we got the wiring on all nice and neat to the relay
with the nice wiring covering. to the fuel pump.
through the ususal wire hole.
and to the relays location behind the n/s boot carpet bulkhead using it as the relay and pumps earth. we used the original relay switch wire, cut it, and put it to the new relay.
now we are seeing 13.5 volts at the pump now instead of bearly making 10 volts which is brilliant.
and i can see 14.3 volts sometimes at the secs monitor so there was Stacks of resistance in the old fuel pump wiring.
richie needed More tools from our favorite toy shop Halfords so he hooked up his Innovate afr gizmo and we went for a blast after the shopping at Halfords.
was bezzing around and enjoying being on boost again that much richie told me to stop lol. Probably due to the going home traffic too lol. the car is runnign ever so slightly rich but thats fine. its only a little he said.
thanks again richie.
next on the to do list as my missus keeps nagging me to do it, is to sort the horn out which works buts as soon as i touch the steering wheel or move (slightly lean on the top etc etc) it the horn goe's off.
i have taken the wheel off and as much wiring out as i can with out taking the whole column out. i have changed over the circuit disc's which are right behind the steering wheel boss to no avail.
any ideas anyone.
cheeRS
Last edited by kosienutter; 12-03-2011 at 07:02 AM.
#29
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iTrader: (1)
Looking good, I had exactly the same problem re the horn (2WD though), but mine was due to some numpty bodgeing the standard horn ring into the Momo wheel fitted when I brought it.
I noticed the wire for the horn isn't insulated for some reason, yet the switched side is, for this reason I taped over the connector as I thought it may touch the metal steering inside and activate the horn so check this first. Otherwise as said it's going to be the EARTH wire for the horn (Brown IIRC) it's switched on the negative side and so if this touches any metal it will activate the horn (This is akin to what the horn switch does when closed is complete the earth connection)
Also check the horn switch as where the two brown wires go in the switch if these move slightly it can touch on top of the metal round the steering.
Martin
I noticed the wire for the horn isn't insulated for some reason, yet the switched side is, for this reason I taped over the connector as I thought it may touch the metal steering inside and activate the horn so check this first. Otherwise as said it's going to be the EARTH wire for the horn (Brown IIRC) it's switched on the negative side and so if this touches any metal it will activate the horn (This is akin to what the horn switch does when closed is complete the earth connection)
Also check the horn switch as where the two brown wires go in the switch if these move slightly it can touch on top of the metal round the steering.
Martin
#32
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Thread Starter
Little update. Did a bit more Again on the battery wiring, so there was less wires having to go in the same hole.
I think it is there now.
Hopefully picking up my sharktooths tomorrow from refurb shop. Cant wait,got new centre caps for them to from Ford.
Been busy on the car today giving it a good clean for the first time since I have been back from sea. Thank god the weather held off today. Still need to do the engine bay.
Once I done that by 12 today I took the calipers apart and stripped them of the old crap layered paint that I had put on a few years ago. Will be re applying paint somepoint later this week better than before (taking my time this time) and once that is done I should be very happy with the effect behind the sharktooths. Looked good before but should look even better now .
I forgot to get the after pictures after the clean today so if the condensation holds off I might get some photos in tomorrow morning.
I have also changed the power supply the secs monitor direct from the battery via a relay. Now I am seeing the batterys true voltage instead of the power draining ecu's voltage. 14.5/6 volts on start up then once warmed up to normal temps etc etc, steadying around 14.3/4 for the remainder. Very happy with that. Thing is though now I have done that when I put the ignition key to position 1 the alarms go off on the monitor saying temps, pressures too high but when in position 2 its fine, so not fussed about it really but thought i'd mention it if anyone on here knew why it is doing it just out of curiosity. Maybe because the ecu's power is off but the power to the new relay is still on in key position 1. Hell I think I have just answered my own question lol. Twat.
I think it is there now.
Hopefully picking up my sharktooths tomorrow from refurb shop. Cant wait,got new centre caps for them to from Ford.
Been busy on the car today giving it a good clean for the first time since I have been back from sea. Thank god the weather held off today. Still need to do the engine bay.
Once I done that by 12 today I took the calipers apart and stripped them of the old crap layered paint that I had put on a few years ago. Will be re applying paint somepoint later this week better than before (taking my time this time) and once that is done I should be very happy with the effect behind the sharktooths. Looked good before but should look even better now .
I forgot to get the after pictures after the clean today so if the condensation holds off I might get some photos in tomorrow morning.
I have also changed the power supply the secs monitor direct from the battery via a relay. Now I am seeing the batterys true voltage instead of the power draining ecu's voltage. 14.5/6 volts on start up then once warmed up to normal temps etc etc, steadying around 14.3/4 for the remainder. Very happy with that. Thing is though now I have done that when I put the ignition key to position 1 the alarms go off on the monitor saying temps, pressures too high but when in position 2 its fine, so not fussed about it really but thought i'd mention it if anyone on here knew why it is doing it just out of curiosity. Maybe because the ecu's power is off but the power to the new relay is still on in key position 1. Hell I think I have just answered my own question lol. Twat.
Last edited by kosienutter; 13-06-2011 at 09:02 PM.
#34
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Thread Starter
Update ver 2.0
Cheers Paul.
Couldnt get the alloys today as they rang a bit too late for me to get there in time before they shut. Was busy though finding out why my speakers were not working. In the end I found I screwed through one of the speaker wires putting the interior side strips back on after doing other wiring, Dooh.
Sorry the photos are not too great but thats an iPhone for you as my proper camera got knicked whilst on honeymoon last year. Need to sort some laquer issues on the rear bumper and drivers door and the roof( thanks Bird Shit) next once I have saved enough lol.
And the voltage where it should be
Shall be painting my calipers on Thursday as the weather is not looking too good for tomorrow. Will have some before/during/after shots if I remember.
Cheers Paul.
Couldnt get the alloys today as they rang a bit too late for me to get there in time before they shut. Was busy though finding out why my speakers were not working. In the end I found I screwed through one of the speaker wires putting the interior side strips back on after doing other wiring, Dooh.
Sorry the photos are not too great but thats an iPhone for you as my proper camera got knicked whilst on honeymoon last year. Need to sort some laquer issues on the rear bumper and drivers door and the roof( thanks Bird Shit) next once I have saved enough lol.
And the voltage where it should be
Shall be painting my calipers on Thursday as the weather is not looking too good for tomorrow. Will have some before/during/after shots if I remember.
#35
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Thread Starter
Picked up my Sharktooths this afternoon. Very happy with the finish. A massive improvment on thir last motif lol. Thanks to 'The Polished Wheel Company' in Wadebridge, Cornwall.
BEFORE.
AFTER.
Just need to fit them now once the brakes are done
BEFORE.
AFTER.
Just need to fit them now once the brakes are done