how can you tell if an rs500 is genuine
#1
how can you tell if an rs500 is genuine
I am going to view a rs500 2mora can anybody tell me what to look for and how do you know if it is genuine. where does it tell you the build number of the car if it hasn't got the little plate by the electric windows?? please help anybody!!!
#2
Advanced PassionFord User
iTrader: (24)
Lots of bolt on things like T4 turbo and air box (if still there) the block will have smaller core plugs but you might need a mirror to see them under the turbo. 8 injector set up of course. Battery tray corner sawn off to accommodate it. Look underneath and see if the rear beam has the extended fittings for the trailing arms.
The build number plaque means nothing btw, they were added after a show in syon park about 10 years ago.
But why not check out this page too... save me typing
http://www.rs500cosworth.com/buyers_guide.html
Paul at N.Yorks spares is the reg. and is very helpful - they know most of the cars in the club so if you know the chassis number they can check it for you.
The build number plaque means nothing btw, they were added after a show in syon park about 10 years ago.
But why not check out this page too... save me typing
http://www.rs500cosworth.com/buyers_guide.html
Paul at N.Yorks spares is the reg. and is very helpful - they know most of the cars in the club so if you know the chassis number they can check it for you.
#3
Advanced PassionFord User
iTrader: (24)
... and most of the known ones for sale can be found here...
http://www.rs500cosworth.com/for_sale_page.html
..and you have a pm mate
http://www.rs500cosworth.com/for_sale_page.html
..and you have a pm mate
Last edited by AndyPen; 02-05-2008 at 10:17 PM.
#5
*** Sierra RS Custard ***
iTrader: (3)
My replica has the rear beam, lol
The ONLY way to identify a real one is that it has a real chassis number that you are confident hasnt been retrofitted to the shell,anything else is just an easy bolt on bit, cause there are NO differences of any consequence between a base model late 3door shell and a rs500 one.
The numbers are the ONLY thing that matter, seriously!
The ONLY way to identify a real one is that it has a real chassis number that you are confident hasnt been retrofitted to the shell,anything else is just an easy bolt on bit, cause there are NO differences of any consequence between a base model late 3door shell and a rs500 one.
The numbers are the ONLY thing that matter, seriously!
#6
Advanced PassionFord User
iTrader: (24)
Hi Chip - I agree mate - but yours was a 500 once wasn't it? I remember the article and the crash etc.
Dan - here's a pic of the small core plugs for you. This motor doesn't have the drop bracket for the altenator - it should have so that it all sits lower and away from the turbo.
wrong water pump too!!
Dan - here's a pic of the small core plugs for you. This motor doesn't have the drop bracket for the altenator - it should have so that it all sits lower and away from the turbo.
wrong water pump too!!
Last edited by AndyPen; 02-05-2008 at 10:32 PM. Reason: didn't mention pump
#7
*** Sierra RS Custard ***
iTrader: (3)
Yeah it was my 500 that we got the bits from, but the thing is, thats what thieving ringer scum do too.
So the only way you are going to know, is if the numbers are in the shell and you are confident they always have been, identifying the engine as correct is important to know that you have a 500 with the right bits on it, but it doesnt tell you if its a 500 or not.
If you got a 500 and swapped all the bits with a base model and ended up with a 1.6 pinto engine and no kit etc on the 500 shell, that would STILL be a 500, where as the other car (like mine) would never be one.
So the only way you are going to know, is if the numbers are in the shell and you are confident they always have been, identifying the engine as correct is important to know that you have a 500 with the right bits on it, but it doesnt tell you if its a 500 or not.
If you got a 500 and swapped all the bits with a base model and ended up with a 1.6 pinto engine and no kit etc on the 500 shell, that would STILL be a 500, where as the other car (like mine) would never be one.
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#8
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Contact paul from north yorks mate he was very helpful when i got mine as said the main thing is all the numbers match but remember the 500 has a diffrent engine no to the floor number and should be stamped on the block just above the water pump and same again on the head near the pulleys
#9
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The plastic chassis number plates you find on RS500's aren't factory mate; they we're an addition via a member of Club 500 in the mid nineties. An untampered 'GG' chassis number is the way forward mate.
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