focus tdci 1.8 56 plate SORTED!!
#1
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
focus tdci 1.8 56 plate SORTED!!
My ford focus 1.8 tdci 56 plate has just displayed this engine systems failure warning. The car is still driveable but it wont go above 3000 revs (limp mode),then goes back to driving normally after about a mile this is now happening everytime I get in it.ive plug my cheap fault code reader into it but its coming up with no codes
Any suggestions on the problem?
Thanks Andy
Any suggestions on the problem?
Thanks Andy
Last edited by geordiegooner; 07-12-2013 at 04:20 PM.
#2
My ford focus 1.8 tdci 56 plate has just displayed this engine systems failure warning. The car is still driveable but it wont go above 3000 revs (limp mode),then goes back to driving normally after about a mile this is now happening everytime I get in it.ive plug my cheap fault code reader into it but its coming up with no codes
Any suggestions on the problem?
Thanks Andy
Any suggestions on the problem?
Thanks Andy
Mine started off like that and got progressively worse. I now have to turn ignition off to reset it but by the time I hit 3rd gear it goes back to limp mode.
You need to get the fault codes read by specific software, I read mine with a Launch X431 Master and got P0238.
Hope this helps.
#3
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
The Aa were at my work the other day and put on his fault code reader but no codes showed up but he says 100% its the fuel filter clogged up from shut asda diesel so ill change filter and see
#4
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
I've been running mine on Asda derv for over four years without anything like that happening ? I'm always sceptical when people blame fuel for something, how long and how many miles is it since the last fuel filter change ?
#6
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
cars only done 5000 miles in the 18 months ive had it and on 69000 miles now and always been using asda derv.changed the fuel filter and air filter today and still no friggin change.
Last edited by geordiegooner; 20-04-2013 at 07:29 PM.
#7
Relevant codes were p0238, p0113, p0101 and p0406. I blocked off the EGR valve with a panel and it got me nowhere.
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#8
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
P0101 and P0113 point the airmass meter (which jas a built in air temp sensor).
Could be a loose connector or have you disconnected it to test?
Could be a loose connector or have you disconnected it to test?
#9
I've run the engine with the MAF sensor unplugged and it didn't make a difference unfortunately. This is definitely looking like a dead turbo, however there's no black smoke or anything.
Turbo also seems to kick in properly when revving in neutral, not sure if that's significant though.
Turbo also seems to kick in properly when revving in neutral, not sure if that's significant though.
#10
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
P0238 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor "A" Circuit High
I would not blame the turbo yet. Map (or Boost) sensor signal is too high.
Could be a defective sensor or a short circuit in the wiring.
P0406 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit High
Seems the position sensor on the EGR has a too high signal.
I would not blame the turbo yet. Map (or Boost) sensor signal is too high.
Could be a defective sensor or a short circuit in the wiring.
P0406 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit High
Seems the position sensor on the EGR has a too high signal.
#11
Thanks for checking out the codes!
I actually used a blanking plate and blocked off the EGR last night; but it fixed nothing. Not had it re-diagnosed since but I presume that means I can rule out the P0406 code.
Looks like it could be pipes/wiring to do with that sensor, need to try and get at it!
I actually used a blanking plate and blocked off the EGR last night; but it fixed nothing. Not had it re-diagnosed since but I presume that means I can rule out the P0406 code.
Looks like it could be pipes/wiring to do with that sensor, need to try and get at it!
#12
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
No, I would not rule-out the P0406 code just yet.
A signal that is too high is an electrical problem, not an EGR flow problem caused by blanking.
A signal that is too high is an electrical problem, not an EGR flow problem caused by blanking.
#13
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
haven't sorted anything on mine yet got a different code reader done and still no codes but flashing up egr valve borrowing a mates maf sensor tomorrow to rule that out first.
#14
Had same problem with my 2.0 TDCI 05 plate 100,000 miles. Took the EGR off , no blanking plate. Light will always be on the dash BUT it will pass MOT NO PROBLEM because they put there foot down to rev the car up. JUST had mine pass 2 weeks ago with the EGR OFF.
CAR would only go 50 max before. GOT THE INFO OFF HERE, a bloke who worked in a mot garage.
TAKE THE BLANK OFF.
CAR would only go 50 max before. GOT THE INFO OFF HERE, a bloke who worked in a mot garage.
TAKE THE BLANK OFF.
#15
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
1.8 tdci egr question
well just used the car as it is as I bought a audi a3 tdi bought a egr blanking plate from ebay does it at the exhaust manifold end?
Last edited by geordiegooner; 22-09-2013 at 08:12 AM.
#17
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
6 months down the line and its still the same strange as your the second person to say that I though the glow plugs are only in use to start the car and nothing else
#18
PassionFord Post Whore!!
If there's a fault in the glo-plug circuit on these it can cause limp mode.
Fault code with be a relay circuit code, but 90% of the time it's simply the glo-plugs aren't working. Check with ammeter in-line with glo-plug feed, usually 15-20 amps each glo-plug, so a good car with all 4 glo-plugs working will be 60-80 amps draw on the glo-plugs.
Check feed when relay cuts in for battery voltage.
Fault code with be a relay circuit code, but 90% of the time it's simply the glo-plugs aren't working. Check with ammeter in-line with glo-plug feed, usually 15-20 amps each glo-plug, so a good car with all 4 glo-plugs working will be 60-80 amps draw on the glo-plugs.
Check feed when relay cuts in for battery voltage.
#20
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
well 8 month down the line I bothered my arse to change the glow plugs and surprise surprise back upto full power and drives spot on very strange there only suppose to start the car.lets see how long it stay working.
#21
PassionFord Post Whore!!
They also stop excess fuel smoke on warm up, that's why they put in a fault/dash warnings and cause limp mode.
If car has a DPF, and glo-plugs aren't working it could have excess fuel going into DPF & blocking it.
As ever it's emission bollocks..
If car has a DPF, and glo-plugs aren't working it could have excess fuel going into DPF & blocking it.
As ever it's emission bollocks..
Last edited by GVK.; 07-12-2013 at 04:47 PM.
#22
Virgin
#23
Virgin
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I have a 2006 focus 1.8 tdci from cold its spluttering then if you sit in it when it's warm on idle it shakes/vibrates took it to have it diagnosed it came up egr open circuit high. So blanked it off still the same also changed glow plugs as they had had it any help please??
#24
Ford Focus 06 plate 1.8 tdci limp mode fixed
My ford focus 1.8 tdci 56 plate has just displayed this engine systems failure warning. The car is still driveable but it wont go above 3000 revs (limp mode),then goes back to driving normally after about a mile this is now happening everytime I get in it.ive plug my cheap fault code reader into it but its coming up with no codes
Any suggestions on the problem?
Thanks Andy
Any suggestions on the problem?
Thanks Andy
Martin
#25
We had the same problem on our 06 plate 1.8TDCI focus, right pain in the arse. Had a mind of it's own, engine system failiure light would come on at the start, then go off, then came back when it wanted too. I decided to try changing the glow plugs and the lead.
Couldn't beleive it, doing that resolved all the problems, no engine warning light and all seems to be running better than it has for a long time......
Then all of a sudden whilst driving down a dual carriage way at around 60 miles an hour, all power went from the engine, running very lumpy, managed to limp off the carraige way and park up. turned the engine off and waited a bit.
Fired it back up and everything back to normal, bit worried now as to when it's next going to mess about...... seriously thinking about flipping it for another car less technical.
Graham.
Couldn't beleive it, doing that resolved all the problems, no engine warning light and all seems to be running better than it has for a long time......
Then all of a sudden whilst driving down a dual carriage way at around 60 miles an hour, all power went from the engine, running very lumpy, managed to limp off the carraige way and park up. turned the engine off and waited a bit.
Fired it back up and everything back to normal, bit worried now as to when it's next going to mess about...... seriously thinking about flipping it for another car less technical.
Graham.
#26
On my 2007 Ford Focus 1.8tdci the car went in to limp mode...even stationary it would not rev above 4000rpm .When you first turn it over you could get a good few healthy high rev blips out of the throttle then after about 20 secs it would return back to no more than 4000revs ..So we ran the computer on it ..Came up as no faults..so here we go .. egr.. turbo....airmass metre any number of sensors ..all them things could be at fault ..So we thought no we'll just change the Glow Plugs after the advice found here , fully expecting it to not fix the problem ... WRONG .. it fixed the engine !!!! so even if no reports are coming up it's always worth changing the glow plugs ..The Focus is running perfect now !!! JOB DONE
#28
I've just posted about P0299 underboost code, just wonder if this might also be glow plugs.
My understanding is that the glowplugs stay on until 2500rpm.
How do they fail exactly? Can I just check them with a current meter or do they just bung up?
I'm trying all the easy options before the dreaded turbo replacement and engine de-gunk...
My understanding is that the glowplugs stay on until 2500rpm.
How do they fail exactly? Can I just check them with a current meter or do they just bung up?
I'm trying all the easy options before the dreaded turbo replacement and engine de-gunk...
#30
#31
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Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums... So I bought my mk2 1.8 focus TDCI about 8 months ago and have recently been having the same problem as most others on this thread. When the car starts it enters limp mode and won't go above 3000rpm, after about a mile it turns off and revs freely. Every now and then limp mode turns on when driving for a brief moment and then turns back off and revs freely again.
I've ordered a new set of glow plugs and fuel filter as these seems to be the things I've read on the thread that seem to be the cause. If these don't solve the issue any other ideas?
I've ordered a new set of glow plugs and fuel filter as these seems to be the things I've read on the thread that seem to be the cause. If these don't solve the issue any other ideas?
#34
well i have bought a 1.6 tdci and Im getting underboost in 4th same as everyone else. fine in every other lower gear. and around the doors. engine has new air filter on fuel filter solenoid boost but its still doing it its got my head busted! go from 3rd to 4th throws up eml and p0299 code
Last edited by Tommy Lawson; 25-06-2018 at 11:12 PM.
#35
well i have bought a 1.6 tdci and Im getting underboost in 4th same as everyone else. fine in every other lower gear. and around the doors. engine has new air filter on fuel filter solenoid boost but its still doing it its got my head busted! go from 3rd to 4th throws up eml and p0299 code
Solved this by checking and replacing intercooler hoses which were split. Both offside of engine.
#36
Hi all.
I'm new to PassionFord but had to post after reading and using these forums for years to fix stuff.
2008 1.6 TDCI Fiesta 155,000 miles and suddenly I get "Engine System Fault - Check Owners Manual". No codes being shown up through the OBDII reader at all. I took a punt at 4 new glow plugs (£65) and it cured it right up, but he's waht I found along the way.
All four of my glow plugs were shot, totally dead when you put multimeter across them. Should be getting 1 ohm resisance but mine were a complete open circut.
I worked out that the car only needs to have one working glow plug for the warning message to be removed and the car to drive normally. Some of my plugs could have been dead for years as my car has always ran little rough when started. 5 mins in it's sweet.
So for anyone stuggling to get all four changed then you can get back on the road if you manage to get one changed.
I got all four of mine changed but access is a problem for the two cylinders on the drivers side, if you have big hands
Hope this helps someone else out there.
I'm new to PassionFord but had to post after reading and using these forums for years to fix stuff.
2008 1.6 TDCI Fiesta 155,000 miles and suddenly I get "Engine System Fault - Check Owners Manual". No codes being shown up through the OBDII reader at all. I took a punt at 4 new glow plugs (£65) and it cured it right up, but he's waht I found along the way.
All four of my glow plugs were shot, totally dead when you put multimeter across them. Should be getting 1 ohm resisance but mine were a complete open circut.
I worked out that the car only needs to have one working glow plug for the warning message to be removed and the car to drive normally. Some of my plugs could have been dead for years as my car has always ran little rough when started. 5 mins in it's sweet.
So for anyone stuggling to get all four changed then you can get back on the road if you manage to get one changed.
I got all four of mine changed but access is a problem for the two cylinders on the drivers side, if you have big hands
Hope this helps someone else out there.
#38
Similar Problem
Focus MK2 (57 plate) 1.8TDCi 82Kmiles
Serviced (by myself) about 2 months ago – Oil + Oil filter + Air filter + pollen filter + air con gas etc
I have a very similar problem:
Car running fine – no problems - BUT
I filled up from the local Shell garage (std diesel)
After 3 miles up the road she ran odd – not limp mode but sort of like hitting a strong head on wind (power loss) and a few puffs of black smoke out of the zorst
After about 8 miles “System engine failure” and red light on dash
Stopped, switched off the engine and fired back up again
Still drove a bit rubbish and noticed a bit of black smoke out of the rear view
Drove it over the week sometimes ok and sometimes not good but started getting worse
No fault codes from ODB2 reader even after the 3rd time with engine still running (cleared on dash after restart)
Half tank used up so I topped up with Shell V power diesel
Instant cure – took a long 10 mile route home and no problem at all
Next day 50 mile round trip and back to bad again
Read this and have just ordered a new set of plugs
Will post up if it fixes the problem in a few days’ time (est del 2 – 3 days)
Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions
Fingers crossed
Neil
Serviced (by myself) about 2 months ago – Oil + Oil filter + Air filter + pollen filter + air con gas etc
I have a very similar problem:
Car running fine – no problems - BUT
I filled up from the local Shell garage (std diesel)
After 3 miles up the road she ran odd – not limp mode but sort of like hitting a strong head on wind (power loss) and a few puffs of black smoke out of the zorst
After about 8 miles “System engine failure” and red light on dash
Stopped, switched off the engine and fired back up again
Still drove a bit rubbish and noticed a bit of black smoke out of the rear view
Drove it over the week sometimes ok and sometimes not good but started getting worse
No fault codes from ODB2 reader even after the 3rd time with engine still running (cleared on dash after restart)
Half tank used up so I topped up with Shell V power diesel
Instant cure – took a long 10 mile route home and no problem at all
Next day 50 mile round trip and back to bad again
Read this and have just ordered a new set of plugs
Will post up if it fixes the problem in a few days’ time (est del 2 – 3 days)
Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions
Fingers crossed
Neil
#39
1.8/2.0 TDCi Engine Malfunction / ESP Malfunction
Hey, I'm a mechanic from Manchester, came across your dilemmas with the 1.8TDCi's - I've recently had a poorly maintained Transit Connect 1.8TDCi Duratorq with these issues you all describe, The engine management light + 'Engine Malfunction' message then after a few hundred yards 'ESP Malfunction' message + the car skidding dash light . The ESP would throw the whole running of the engine out of the limp balance it was already in. The ESP on at position 2 with an alarm sounding prevented a restart (fast crank similar to no fuel at the injectors) - This would go away on its own after the engine cooled and the car restarted with just the engine malfunction message with EML on.
The ESP warning lights notifies of wheel sensor issues but can also do the same when severe engine malfunctions are present, it appears that the module is pre-empting a situation caused by a malfunctioning engine that could cause an issue with stability of the vehicle. ie. engine goes into stall whilst driving, no power steering, assisted braking etc which in turn destabilises the vehicle.
The frequency appeared to be down to the advancing of an unaddressed issue, reset immediately KOKO, progressing to a total immobilisation until engine has cooled and an amount of time passes (Don't have the details of this as I'm basing some of this from owners statement)
The poor maintenance of this engine meant parameters had been stretched at all junctures of the electronic monitoring and in turn inaccurate data sent to the main ECU which then compensates one and the domino drop begins, this produced a plethora of red herrings on the diagnostic scan, finding fault notifications, checking the sensors and reasons for code to not be apparent at all, then on rescan finding X Y and Z problems would not be present and A B and C had appeared ..
There WAS two offending sensors (and the owner had been very lucky as) the crankshaft position sensor was inoperative (this will eventually lead to catastrophic engine failure) and the throttle position sensor was broken.
Solution:
The air intake system was cleaned thoroughly (inc EGR) the working sensors all cleaned and those measuring air flow decarbonised with sensor cleaner (Do not rub these with Q tips or rags, just allow to air dry) the two damaged/inoperative sensors replaced. All active fault codes erased then a PCM module reset and then the important requirement, a resetting of the ESP module to initial standard.
Serviced the vehicle ... including Diesel Fuel Filter ... Started immediately, no warning messages, sounds or lights, rescanned, zero faults, 20 miles test run, no issues, stop hot and restarted without issues, final scan check, zero faults and running data all within parameters.
I saw the owner a few months later and he stated the vehicle felt back to how it was when he bought it.
A technical read but I hope it helps anyone with this most frustrating of reoccurring problem.
Stay Safe ... Finn
The ESP warning lights notifies of wheel sensor issues but can also do the same when severe engine malfunctions are present, it appears that the module is pre-empting a situation caused by a malfunctioning engine that could cause an issue with stability of the vehicle. ie. engine goes into stall whilst driving, no power steering, assisted braking etc which in turn destabilises the vehicle.
The frequency appeared to be down to the advancing of an unaddressed issue, reset immediately KOKO, progressing to a total immobilisation until engine has cooled and an amount of time passes (Don't have the details of this as I'm basing some of this from owners statement)
The poor maintenance of this engine meant parameters had been stretched at all junctures of the electronic monitoring and in turn inaccurate data sent to the main ECU which then compensates one and the domino drop begins, this produced a plethora of red herrings on the diagnostic scan, finding fault notifications, checking the sensors and reasons for code to not be apparent at all, then on rescan finding X Y and Z problems would not be present and A B and C had appeared ..
There WAS two offending sensors (and the owner had been very lucky as) the crankshaft position sensor was inoperative (this will eventually lead to catastrophic engine failure) and the throttle position sensor was broken.
Solution:
The air intake system was cleaned thoroughly (inc EGR) the working sensors all cleaned and those measuring air flow decarbonised with sensor cleaner (Do not rub these with Q tips or rags, just allow to air dry) the two damaged/inoperative sensors replaced. All active fault codes erased then a PCM module reset and then the important requirement, a resetting of the ESP module to initial standard.
Serviced the vehicle ... including Diesel Fuel Filter ... Started immediately, no warning messages, sounds or lights, rescanned, zero faults, 20 miles test run, no issues, stop hot and restarted without issues, final scan check, zero faults and running data all within parameters.
I saw the owner a few months later and he stated the vehicle felt back to how it was when he bought it.
A technical read but I hope it helps anyone with this most frustrating of reoccurring problem.
Stay Safe ... Finn
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21-08-2015 09:28 PM