James Brunt

Hi all,

I own a Ford Focus Ghia X TDCI 1.8 115 5-Speed Manual

My car has had a fault for the last few months where it cuts out under acceleration at random intervals. The Glow plug lights flash, the car goes into limp mode, then after about 20 seconds the car will cut out. A restart of the engine puts it in permanent Limp mode. A second restart put the car back into normal mode.

The issue started back in November. It was happening ever so often for a few weeks then stopped for a month. It started happening again for another few weeks ago and then I found a fuel leak on the diesel return to fuel filter line where it had been chaffing. I thought this was the end of it because the fault stopped for another month.

The last two days the fault has come back with vengeance. Today it has happened 9 times so far. It happens every three or so minutes. It usually happens in the 2000 - 3250RPM range with the pedal half to three quarters depressed. It does not seem to happen below 2000RPM. It happens at all temperature ranges. I usually get a shock when I first get in the car, put my foot down on initial acceleration and the car cuts out around 2500RPM.

I have changed the fuel filter on the car about two months ago to no avail. I have also run diagnostics on the car. I have the following fault codes at the moment:

P0251 Injectors Pump Fuel Metering Control Malfunction.

B1203 Passenger active head restraint (I don't think my car has this fitted).

B1319 Brake Shift Interlock (BSI) output circuit (My car is a manual. I don't know why I'm getting this code)

B1327 Right front turn lamp (Lamp is working fine)

B1335 Front triangulation load space antenna (Don't have a clue what this is)

B1571 Left rear door ajar circuit failure (Works fine, door was closed fully during tests)

B1611 Rear wiper mode select switch circuit failure (Wiper works fine)

B1875 Turn signal/hazard switch signal circuit failure (Again, works fine)

All the B codes reappear when erased. Could I have a faulty ECU?

I have also had the following fault codes which have appeared multiple times but are currently not showing:

P0110 IAT sensor circuit

P1211 Injector Control Pressure Higher Lower Than Desired engine running

P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Range Performance

P2288 ICP too high.

I am really stuck with this. The garage I take it to are unsure what the problem is. I cannot afford for them to replace a component on the whim for it not to work. I could end up spending a lot of money and then finding out it doesn't solve the problem.

I really need assistance. I believe that my car is now too unsafe to drive. I feel I would be a danger to other road users to drive it especially at night where two restarts and thus two moments where my lights turn off is required. Does anyone know what I should do next.

From memory, I have done the following.

Leak off test of the injectors. About 12ml per injector (Told this was ok)

Air intake sensor test with inferred heat sensor (Reading was correct)

Fuel filter change

Leaking fuel return line changed.

EGR cleaned (by spraying some cleaner in the inlet manifold while engine is running to break up the build up of carbon)

Plenty of injector cleaner in the fuel every few thousand miles.


Any help will be appreciated. I am effectively without a car at the moment as I do not want to endanger other road users by taking the car out. I cannot though, on the other hand, be without a car for very long...

Thanks for reading,

James.

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

There was a thing from ford about something like this mate, I have not had it on mine however my brother inlaw has on his mondeo Tdci as it the same issue on both cars and its the cam sensor at fault mate. Not saying its deffo the issue on yours mate but think there about £26 +vat from ford so might be worth trying mate.

The ford data system says;

If there is a black cam shaft sensor fitted, this must be replace with a grey one.

Which is the only one ford sell now mate and its the sensor that bolts straight into the top of your rocker cover and is held in by a 8mm bolt.

I was not having your issue, but I have changed mine for a grey one as it still had a black sensor fitted and it runs so much smooth mate.

just need to stop the ticking and hold back now as it the other post lol. There's always something

James Brunt

Just checked. The new grey one is fitted. Any other ideas?

car2tref

What happened, did this get sorted?

James Brunt

No I still haven't got it fixed. About a year and a half ago I removed the inlet metering valve and then installed it again and the car stopped cutting out but It's recently come back in the last month. I'm going to try and remove it again see if it fixes it. I'll also have a good look at the wiring. It seems to go into limp mode more often when the engine is cold and the car is labouring and I put my foot down.