How low should a low comp engine be?
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How low should a low comp engine be?
Did a compression test on my s2 and all four cylinders showed 90. A standard s2 should be all roughly 150 im told. Is this correct?
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Re: How low should a low comp engine be?
Originally Posted by BlackRs
Did a compression test on my s2 and all four cylinders showed 90. A standard s2 should be all roughly 150 im told. Is this correct?
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My engine was rebuilt not long ago. Boosts fine sounds sweet aswell. No rattles or anything tappety. But was thinking it was a little low.
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Originally Posted by BlackRs
My engine was rebuilt not long ago. Boosts fine sounds sweet aswell. No rattles or anything tappety. But was thinking it was a little low.
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Have you measured that correctly cos strictly speaking it shouldn't run. And do you have anything to compare it to cos off boost it must be bloody awful.
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well thats the problem. Replaced the thermostat, leads and did a complete engine coolant flush. Started the car up and it sat running for a good half an hour. Drove up the road and it just cut out. No spluttering, no bang just cut out. Since then the car hasnt started. Did a compression test and showed the above results. But what im stuck on is that the engine ran, drove & started spot on without any noise at all. Also if the engine was fcked wouldnt the compression be uneven??
Ive also tried a differant ecu,dizzy,rotary arm & plugs. Oh and its gone fuel. Aswell as spark and the pump is priming.
Ive also tried a differant ecu,dizzy,rotary arm & plugs. Oh and its gone fuel. Aswell as spark and the pump is priming.
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Originally Posted by BlackRs
well thats the problem. Replaced the thermostat, leads and did a complete engine coolant flush. Started the car up and it sat running for a good half an hour. Drove up the road and it just cut out. No spluttering, no bang just cut out. Since then the car hasnt started. Did a compression test and showed the above results. But what im stuck on is that the engine ran, drove & started spot on without any noise at all. Also if the engine was fcked wouldnt the compression be uneven??
Ive also tried a differant ecu,dizzy,rotary arm & plugs. Oh and its gone fuel. Aswell as spark and the pump is priming.
Ive also tried a differant ecu,dizzy,rotary arm & plugs. Oh and its gone fuel. Aswell as spark and the pump is priming.
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Originally Posted by Oranoco
I'm sure mine is 90 across all four and it still goes like buggery and doesn't use a drop of oil or smoke at all
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OK Kiddies, lets remember we're all playing silly buggers with cars and components that are the best part of 20 years old. When doing things like
flushing engines, corrosion is quite likely to to rear it's ugly head...
even if it has had had anti freeze at the correct levels for those 2 decades
it's not inconceivable that some of that alloy head has called it a day
and just let go. Not sure why one would decide to flush an engine but as me old Grandad used to say.......if ain't broke don't try to fix it.
flushing engines, corrosion is quite likely to to rear it's ugly head...
even if it has had had anti freeze at the correct levels for those 2 decades
it's not inconceivable that some of that alloy head has called it a day
and just let go. Not sure why one would decide to flush an engine but as me old Grandad used to say.......if ain't broke don't try to fix it.
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i once had an engine in my rs the bores went oval and that had very low comp on all cylinders and i was told that below 90psi the car would not start and it dident so i scraped the lump i hope thats not your case as u said it was rebuilt a while back
does anyone know what causes an engins bores to go oval?is it high milage or some thing along them lines?
does anyone know what causes an engins bores to go oval?is it high milage or some thing along them lines?
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