davie0146

now the cars playing up again,
a week afterit was running fine, am not getting any fuel to the injectors, getting fuel to the metering head and plenty to the cold start valve but none to the injectors

fookin car might change it to a deisel

Tombra

You're not alone mate
Having the same problem after a rebuild. However, check this out, might help!
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=119647
https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=118477
Also, there are two threads about this on www.escortrsturbo.co.uk, but it seems to be down at the moment

davie0146

cheers mate

am thinking its the metering head, will try another one

found this post thought it might help its for o porkerturbo but stil ke jetronic

THE PROBLEMS I HAD WITH MY K.E. JETRONIC FUEL INJECTION
The problem I had was as follows .... a bad misfire resulting in very poor running and bad starting, very much like a faulty spark plug or HT lead however after first changing the Distributor Cap, Rotor Arm, Plugs and HT Leads the problem was still there..... All the plugs were firing but after the engine was ran for a short time and the plugs inspected they were black in color and very wet indicating rich mixture or poor compression..... The compression was checked and found to be 140PSI which is fine for Turbo Charged engine (Lower compression)..... The fault was obviously in the fuel system and my first thoughts were the Thermo Time Switch was not opening after start up and causing the Cold Start Valve to stay open injecting extra fuel into the inlet manifold ........ However after testing the Thermo Time Switch with a meter it was found to be operating correctly as was also the Cold Start Valve........ Next step was to remove all the Fuel Injectors and test them by pushing down the Air Flow Sensor approx 1" then switching on the ignition with the Injectors in a clear vessel so you can see the fuel spray pattern..... All injectors sprayed quite well apart from No1 which no fuel came out at all....... I swapped No1 with No2 Injector and tried again...... The result was the same nothing from No1 so I removed the Injector pipe to Metering unit and checked it was clear, It was........ It was becoming more obvious that the Fuel Distributor was at fault so I began disconnecting the various parts ready for removal and inspection..... The last part to disconnect was the air inlet pipe to the Turbo Charger and this had to be done under the vehicle...... There was however a little surprise awaiting when I removed the air inlet pipe from the Fuel Distributor to Turbo....... Approx 1/2 litre of petrol poured out of the lower air chamber on the Fuel Distributor and Pipe...... This was the point where everything at once fell in to place......... The problem was indeed the Fuel Distributor but now I knew what was actually wrong with it.... Inside the Fuel Distributor are sealed chambers that hold pressurized fuel ready to send to the injectors. When air enters the engine, the airflow sensor plate lifts the control plunger and the fuel flows from the lower chambers into the upper chambers. The pressure in the two chambers equalize and the diaphragm deflects downward, opening the injector valve orifice and allowing fuel to flow to the injectors but No1 chamber had obviously broken down and was leaking fuel out to the air chamber and not feeding the injector causing the Misfire on No1 cylinder and also the over fueling of the remaining cylinders as they were not only getting fuel from their injectors but also from a fuel/air mixture from the turbo air inlet thus causing the plugs to foul up...... I sourced a second hand Fuel Distributor that had recently been removed from a crash damaged RS Turbo and fitted it to my covin.....The engine fired up instantly and ran at a smooth idle with good response to throttle ......
This task of trouble shooting took me many days to track down due to the complete LACK of information in the workshop manuals..... About the only thing mentioned is that you must number the Injector Lines when you remove them from the fuel distributor ????......Even this information is incorrect as it makes no difference what line goes to what Injector as they are all opened at the same time due to the fact KE Jetronic is still basically Mechanical fuel injection with ECU included for Ignition timing and fuel mixture.... So don't be afraid of what is actually a very simple type of fuel injection with a plentiful supply of second hand parts available, better fuel economy, cleaner emissions, smoother running and more reliable than Webber twin 40's........ KEEP YOUR FUEL INJECTION ON YOUR ENGINE....................If your not sure about something ask me darren@covin.co.uk I might even know the answer...ha..ha..

turbo.jon

had same prob with mine was down to an air lock got my post on here

jon

turbo.jon

have you sorted yours yet mate

mines still not sorted ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh its driving me mad

ive fitted a new metering head an still no fuel must be low pressure

jon

davie0146

not yet

still waiting for my metering head to arrive

will keep you updated

have you tried a new fuel pump?

turbo.jon

just got a diff pump to try will be trying it in a min fingers crossed it work

vroooom ptssssh

Good luck lads

turbo.jon

cheers i think i need more than luck just tried pump still no good


jon

turbo.jon

messed around with it this morning got it to run but only for 3 seconds well most its started since put it all back together its really pi$$ing me off now dont no what else to try ive tried every thing now

GrimmeRS2K

if u need any help jon, let me know and ill pop round, locke had a look yet?

turbo.jon

ive changed everything to do with fueling now so think its time to take it some where to get looked at locke done timing on mine an has give me some ideas i just want it to bloody work when it started earlier i thought YES at last but then it died

vroooom ptssssh

turbo.jon, shit luck mate, sounds like a dodgy something or other maybe check the wiring to the metering unit? or i think you said summit about an air lock

turbocabs

i got the same with mine had 3 metering units still no go have you loot changed the fuel ecu as thats next option

turbo.jon

done fuel ecu today to still no go its got to be an air lock or faulty wiring

akito-man

have you tried new injectors?
or does that sound gay?

turbo.jon

not yet as dont think its them as no fuel comes out the top of metering unit what injectors bolt to .....

turbocabs

i git brand new injectors in mine only want it going 4 a couple of weeks till cossie managment goes on

turbo.jon

just sorted mine thanks to STU gave me a few ideas ended up being the gay dump valve i blocked it off an it started

jon

akito-man

dump valves are gay anyway,they sound off like a fresh fooked butt breaking wind,ffrrrisshhh!

Tombra

What???
Did the dump valve couse the starting problems???

turbo.jon

yes i was told it was an air leak so the first thing i checked was dump valve and it sorted it was weird how made no fuel come out ????



jon

bbsheppo

Classic statement!!!

akito-man

suck the fuel through,but remember to spit,and dunny smoke!

DazC

iTrader: (1)

Still not got this sorted?

Crack all the banjo bolt fittings (12mm spanner) off on top of the metering unit for the injector pipes and press the air flap down fully and hold it there. You now have 2 options, crank the engine over to run the fuel pump or bridge out the fuel pump relay pins 30 and 87. 2 lengths of wire, 2 male spade terminals and a switch would be a good idea for bridging out the relay so you can operate the pump from the front of the car and watch the metering unit. If you are going to crank the engine over, allow the starter to cool on a regular basis as it takes a while to get rid of the air locks (unless the battery goes flat first).

When you are happy that there is very little air coming out of the metering unit, tighten the banjo bolts. The car may start at this point but you may have to crack off the 14mm fittings on top of the injectors and allow the pump to run again just to purge any air in the injector pipes.

My car had been off the road for 4 years and was an absolute cnut to get to run. Took a fair bit of fooking about to get rid of all the air.

akito-man

loosen the plugs,then it will crank easier

DazC

iTrader: (1)

Yes but you're still drawing anywhere between 50 and 200 amps from the battery. Better to bridge out the relay IMO but by removing the spark plugs it will lessen the load on the starter and reduce current draw.

akito-man

get a batt tender like me then, was i rite?