ostpol76

Hello

my name is Stefan I'm from Switzeland and this is my first thread. This winter I would like to overhaul my engine. I would like to present my project here and I am thankfull for any advice.

I own a Caterham Super Seven with an CVH 1.6L RS Turbo Motor:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Yj...tskzs5kanjhJ7a
https://drive.google.com/open?id=16L...qOeaB2UcWmgftD
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nv...JJZGfPQL6RH31E
https://drive.google.com/open?id=13D...Cuzcl9VmSAezh8
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12C...bt3BGmGOJ8L-xu


Here some information. The engine is built 91 and has now 86000 km. I drive with the Caterham approx. 12000 km per year on public roads and partake in about 3 mountain races. Therefore what I do should be durable.
The boost pressure is 0.7 bar and the Caterham should have about 150hp. The Turbo is a Custom Garret turbocharger with an A/R of 0.48 and a max boost pressure of 1.2bar.

My wish (it will be Christmas soon) would be around 220 stable hp. Because of it is a very light car (550kg), an constant power delivery is important (as far as this is possible with a turbo). Rather more power in the lower rev range than much maximum power.

Now I just write how my procedure is, what I want to do and which components I want to use. But I'm sure you have better tips and suggestions.

1. Honing cylinders to oversize for forged piston.
(Which piston would you prefer? Mahle, Accralite, Wössner, Wiseco or something else)

2. Fine balance the crankshaft together with the flywheel. Possibly lighter flywheel.
(Is a weight loss on the crankshaft worth it or is it at the expense of longevity? Is the light flywheel form Burton Power recommendable?)

3. H-con rod from Farndon EN24V.
(These are very expensive. I think a little overdone for 220 hp. Are there good alternatives?)

4. Cylinder head Stage 3 from Burtonpower.

5. ARP stud bolt.

6. Head gasket for 8.0:1 compression (or am I wrong with the compression?)

7. adjustable camshaft sprocket

8. What kind of camshaft can you recommend which is good for everyday use? (https://www.burtonpower.com/kent-cam...-kccvh31k.html)

9. Roller Rocker Arms (Harland Sharp).

I hope I'm not completely wrong here. It is my first project at the engine and I am aware that I have to pay dearly


A colleague of mine develops and sells control units and is an expert in this field, I will "convert" it completely to electronic fuel injection and ignition.


I'm not sure what to do with the turbo yet. But here I have to change something, because the turbo lag bothers me the most. Under 3000 rpm nothing works at all. Cause there is very little space in this area (in the millimeter range) it is very difficult to find something off the rack that fits. That's probably why I have to continue using the "old" one. I have read that Turbo-Berlin, Turbos can revise. They use ball bearings and mill an aluminum compressor wheel to get it up to speed faster.
That'll be done later. First I want a solid "basis" engine.


I hope I didn't ask too many questions and best regards
Stefan

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

Looking good.
Are you on the road with the new flywheel?
For low down torque and response I think your CR being same as stock is good.
What exhaust do you have ?
The correct turbo choice and exhaust manifold combo is important , The stock T3 ex manifold is a very good one , Not sure about the cvh T2 later version or if they changed the exhaust manifold, Think they did which may suit low down platform. Best speak with tuners who know what results youll likel;y find.

Off boost mapping can help wonders and now with small very efficent turbochargers on the market you could work out to an extent the best route, Id love to see a small turbo from the likes of BW and Garrett with new range units on old cvh.

Talk with
Contact | Turbo Technics
Boosting Technologies - BorgWarner

XR2

Pics don't work (for me?)

1991? Is it a Escort RS Turbo (Bosch KE-Jetronic MFI) or a Fiesta RS Turbo (Ford EFI) unit?

All of those companies do have a good name. You might consider price and a product that fits your needs before you think about the name.

The crank drive weight is always a compromise between daily use, reliability and power. But as you mention you already struggle with power delivery, not lightening these parts might be a good decision considering driveability of the car.

Waste of money IMO. A firend of mine ran his 1,8 CVH with 300 hp or more with standard conrods.

It's not rocket science. Any decent company in Switzerland doing engines can do all these modifications. Plus you save a lot of money on shipping to the UK and on custom duty.

Won't hurt.

Standard c/r should be fine for what you want to have.

Always makes sense on the CVH, even on a standard engine because you'll always have tolerances as the pulleys have fixed positions on the camshaft and the crankshaft. Plus a lot of aftermarket camshafts need additional timing.

Not a KentCam one.

Because of its design, the CVH suffers from camshaft wear. Without the right material, processing and hardening the camshaft won't last long. I've read a lot of horror stories - also here - about CVHs with aftermarket camshafts, especially KentCam ones. Some say Newman sell the best quality and in the CVH they last quite well.

As we're not in the UK there are some other options as well. Schrick is said to be one of the best manufacturers of camshafts. Might need a special quote for a CVH camshaft on their classic range. Dbilas also had a good name in engine parts an camshafts for decades. Might be worth considering.

Waste of money.

That's a must. There aren't many companies left that are able to tune the RST engines (no matter if MFI or EFI) and (mostly?) all of them are in the UK.

That's just what you'd expect when having an old turbocharger. Even people with a MK1 Focus and the newer Garret GT charger often change for a modern unit. And it probably a custum made manifold makes much more sense than trying to learn a T3 some new tricks.