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This is my first time on the forum but not my last!
Ive recently brought an 1988 RS TURBO LHD for my place out in Spain. I'm going to fully restore the car over the next 6 months. I'm currently trying to get her running and the last owner said there was a problem with the fuel pump & relay etc. New pump fitted but no power to the pump. (Pump works off a direct battery)
So I found a couple of relays on the floor in the car one o think is the fuel pump relay.... There are no other relays plugged in, and I can see a Yellow plug which I presume a relay goes onto ? Can some one clarify this ?
Im going to get a new fuel pump relay as I'm not sure if this works.... although it does Click..
What I'm needing is a good wiring diagram for these fuses and photos if possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated as it's starting to drive me mad!!
The fuel pump relay and holder are pink/purple so this likely wont be the fuel pump relay that you're looking at.
You'd easily be able to see if someone has bodged/hacked a different holder in tho
Do you not have the pink/purple relay? it'll be mounted on a bracket with those other relays behind the dash.
You haven't posted any pictures up yet so no one can help if you don't know what you're looking for.
I know you mention you dont have them, But the location pictured above isn't where they are, have you looked up, or remoed the dash to find them. I find it hard that the wiring has all been ripped out.....
This is not an easy one to help with as it sounds like there could be a fair bit missing.
But saying that a common culprit for no spark is the green wire that runs from the coil to the ECU around the front of the engine bay, it often gets damaged/cut.
Ok thanks for your help so far. I've been away with work and I finally got back into the Garage this week.
Ok, so I've now got a spark! Turned out to be a duff dizzy. I got a new Genuine Ford Fuel relay (Purple one) and now the fuel pump runs as I turn the key on for a few seconds and while cranking.
So. Car fires and runs for no longer than 2-3 secounds before stopping, no matter what I do with the throttle it stops. Turn the key of & on again and it does the same, over & over again! I'm sure it's got something to do with the injection side of things and points me back at the missing relays... I ONLY have 3 (see pic) As stated before the car has been off the road for about 5 years. I found it with the fuel pump in the boot and the relays wired up & bodged about with.
This is is what I've got under the dash... The relay socket has been cut out so the relay (Purple) is wired as is. Green is ABS. WHAT IS THE MISTORY YELLOW ONE?? and what's missing ?
Left hand driver car, OK So the yellow plug is for the trip/fuel computer. No need to worry about that as you mustn't have one fitted.
Your next step is to go to the car and remove the lid from the fusebox, look for the picture on the lid with heated seats fuse. Is it blown or removed? This isn't a heated seat fuse.... The lid was from the parts bin. This fuse is for the electronic fuel injection on start up when the engine is cold.
Make sure you have no air leaks in the intake system, your fuel metering unit needs suction to pull the flap down and provide the needed fuel.
An easy test is to remove the air filter and hold the flap down a little whilst someone else cranks it over... if it runs you no you have an air leak (or poorly adjusted metering unit).
Thanks For everyone's help so far. I'll check the air leak tomorrow, and will do the test.
Ok, so today I spent a few hours on the car again, there wasn't a fuse in the "heated seat" space so I put this in (slightly different noise now when ignition is switched on). But still know change! The car starts fine, revs got up to around the 900/1000 mark for about 4-5 seconds and then stops. Same over & over again.
Ive attached further photos of the fuse box & engine maybe there's a relay or something from the fuse box..?
I might order a new fuel accumulator, thermo time switch (brown plug on the back of the inlet manifold) and cold start injector as I've been told maybe one of these may be the problem...
The cold start at the back of inlet can be removed and cleaned with petrol/carb cleaner. Try this before buying a new one.... You say it idles upto 900-1000 RPM, what are they when you start the engine up?
Idle set up is from 850RPM and can be set to idle from that to 1250RPM, Does your instrument cluster gauge still have the factory fit black gauge? If so you'll see 2 little white dots to set the idle between..
Have you cracked opened the banjo bolts on the metering unit to see if fuel is getting to the unit? see above post for info as these do need regular maintenance, It looks like the car hasnt been touched for ages.
It doesn't appear that you've fit a new dizzy cap/rotor arm, leads spark plugs. Look over all service items aswell(you'll be wanting it serviced before using it anyway).
Check all jubilee clips are tight for all boost hoses.
Finally you might be having problems as that throttle cable is routed completely wrong, and its been bodged up completely wrong at the throttle housing end. How much play do you have in the cable at the pedal?
a common culprit for no spark is the green wire that runs from the coil to the ECU around the front of the engine bay, it often gets damaged/cut.
Just looking at the pics again, I can see this wire that Karlos advised you about has been taped up at some point, It looks a mess near the strut top.
Can you remove that tape and check out that repair to the wire, Repair where needed and follow that wire back round the front, under the radiator and spotlight wiring.
While you're at it, check you have 3 wires to the coil, one of the plug should have 2 wires going into it.
What is is the correct route for the throttle cable ? It feels fine at the pedal.
Re the green cable from the coil to the ECU. It's an LHD car so the wire doesn't travel along/under the Rad as the fuse box & battery are on the other sides.
I dont know the correct routing, but that sure doesn't look right(for lhd). Also has the oil filler cap failed, its very old. If the seal or the cap doesn't hold tight on the rocker cover its creating an air leak.
Ok. So today I did all the above. I took the top of the injector pump off, cleaned & replaced the cooper washers & "O" ring, plenty of fuel. I cleaned the thermo time switch & the 5th injector in Carb cleaner.
So, What I think I've found is the following.
No power getting to the 5th injector. With the fuel pipe off there's a good jet of fuel. Once connected and plugged in nothing happens. I've put an multimeter to the blue socket and with the ignition on there's no reading. (Change multimeter prongs around a few times and still nothing)
I checked directly at the fuse box checking the injector fuse (heater seats!) and there's 12 volts, check the new fuse and it's good. So I think maybe there's a problem between the fuse and injector pump?
Side note: I clean & checked all the visable air hoses all seem good, the coil is wired up correctly with good wires (was just instalation tape) by pressing down the big flap once the air box is removed this makes know difference either. Throttle cable seems good, very little play, oil filler cap cleaned and I've packed out with electric tape and now fits tight.
Check fuse number 7 for fuel injection and relay number VI for ignition. Im suprised that the throttle cable is routed that way, leaning against the hall sensor etc.
Your fuse box has plenty of blank sections, that dont have any missing relays(can see where the relay pins sit into the fuse board)
Relay number I is missing but that relates to headlight washers(fitted to some EU models). Your fuses look old and some look lie cheap replacements, do you have plenty of decent quality fuses to replace them with(on my FRST my ignition fuses kept melting, I had bought a box of cheap ones like yours. Fit a decent one and ok) Also remove all relays spray WD40 into the fuseboard and sand down the relay pins.
What colour are your spark plugs, I can only assume you have checked them from the list I mentioned recently. If they're black or very dirty your engine won't run/fire up and die. Do you have a wire wheel that fits into a drill to clean the plugs up if you haven't got replacement plugs at hand.
To be completely honest the car looks like it hasn't been looked after for a very long time. I strongly suggest a good service, and looking into the ignition system.
Have you replaced the fuel pump yet? Replacing just the relay isn't going to cut it. The pump could well be seized. How long has it been left standing before you bought it/last driven?
Also did you check every fuel outlet at the metering unit to see if fuel is coming out from the unit?
Im going to do all of the above, fit new dizzy cap, plugs, leads etc. Might get a new recon dizzy also..
Will replace all relays & fuses and will clean up the terminals while I'm at it. Want to remove and clean the inlet manifold and replace all sensors & injectors for new. Hopefully it will jump into life again!
(New fuel pump fitted, this was one of my first jobs!)
Hi haz87,
I bought my S1 (LHD)...three years ago from an Ebay seller in HULL. It has been dry stored in my garage.
Yesterday I tried to start the car and found TWO EMPTY holder ( in BLUE and PINK/PURPLE).
Both RELAYS WERE MISSING.
I went to my local Ford garage to buy the relays. They did not have any information about these relays.
I was told to buy the S2 fuel pump relay (PURPLE). I just bought two of S2 fuel pump relay from Ebay (will be arrived tomoorw).
What is the RELAY (in BLUE COLOUR)?
Where can I buy the RELAY (in BLUE COLOUR)?
Many thanks for your helps in advance.
Best Regards
Tony
17-08-2017, 05:17 PM
Fuel pump relay
