Bucdodge

Hey guys i need to expert advice on what best for my upcoming plan !

Quick overview; purchased another RS after the old one pretty much fell apart. This one has had thousands of pounds spent on it taking it back to a stripped rolling shell, fresh pans welded in, all rust removed, resprayed her and replaced all the parts back up. The engine had done 90k miles, and by word of the owner had also been undertaken in the restoration. Apparently having only done under 4k miles since completion.
Not sure how far they went with the engine though? But why spend that on the car then not the engine i guess?

The car has a scorpion exhaust, has been chipped, -31 actuator, cone air filter , uprated inter cooler - so all the necessaries for a stage 1.

For some reason a dyno test print out from 2008 shows the car running at 150bhp. Now since then a stage 2 hybrid turbo has been fitted to this car and has been set up to run the standard 7 psi (half bar) which im told is factory standard.

I can tell you the car doesn't feel like 150 bhp when i drive it. (do you think it wasnt re-set up after adding the s2 Hybrid ?)

So here is my plan:

With all the mods already attached, and the s2 hybrid bolted on, im heading towards a kent camshaft kit for the head, then getting her set up on the rolling road to output 14-16 psi boost. Now i know the hybrid will be able to handle this extra pressure,
But will the engine components?

Im hoping the output of this will bring me close to the 190bhp region as im running mfi at the moment

Any issue running 190bhp at 14-16psi with mainly standard engine components?

Anyway guys look forward to getting some advice on this , ill speak to you soon !!

mgtkr1

15-16psi is fine on astd engine. I run 16 psi on a stage3 turbo with std internals and decent powerwithout incident other than smashing gearboxes to pieces lol. a well set up rst on mfi can take a suprising amount of hammer if well looked after ie regular oil/filter changes and the correct fuel is used
a good set up iskey though

Bucdodge

So if i got her set up now id probably be running 180 ish brake as all the components for stage 1 are there, with the better turbo i can push more boost, and with her being set up after new camshaft kit and valves/followers etc have been placed in you reckon id easily (and safely) reach near the 190-200 mark without blowing my internals ...?

Any other suggestions on parts that may help me in goal ?

mgtkr1

. with some porting to improve the volumetric efficiency and the correct cam and enough boost I think you should see 190bhp. as a rule the std internals are good up to 240-250hp but then id be thinking of a forged setup. mfi is typically only good for 200-220hp depending on condition and who sets it up. theres not many who can set it up properly and get the best from it. what part of the country are you?

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

I wouldnt bother with a kent cam, too many people fitting them and lasting 5mins

it will do 190bhp on a standard cam with ease, if you do want one fit a newman with solid lifters and do it once

with cam, front mount and stage 2 hybrid it should be over 200bhp with the right set up

mgtkr1

mine is around 200hp, maybe a touch more with a std cam, fmic, stage 3 t3 and chipped ecu (this just removes the boost cut that usually occurs at 10psi) and setup to run 16 psi. as mark said thestd cam is good enough.

Bucdodge

240-250 bhp i guess thats both the head and the block internals?
Ive heard the camshaft kit usually provides an extra 20bhp, im hoping with that on top on my other mods will be a easy 190-200 bhp

I know the boundaries for MFI are very limited but i want to get the most out of the engine without having to rebuild the bottom end OR an EFI conversion. By the way i live in Wiltshire at the moment!

Bucdodge

Thats what im looking for really, the big 200! I have been searching on the internet for kits, when you purchase camshaft kits i know they come with followers, valve springs, stem seals and cam lube. Are the lifters separate or are they the followers....?
Whats the difference between solid and hydraulic lifters too....? Any reason for the Solid ones?

Cheers,


Luke

Emblem

See....

How many times did i tell you 16psi would be fine...

With the mods you have, and with correct amount of boost you will be well on the way to 200bhp..

The Soild Lifters are just like the ones in that head we got from Basingstoke few years back.
If you do go for a Cam kit, as i said to Steve (RSTSTEVE) you should really bang a pully on as well, so you can get the timing spot on..,

BTW... Sorry been so slack with the txts..

Bucdodge

Haha no problem. Yeah i know mate, just thought id ask for people input on here. Im plenty of them have been n my shoes, just wanna make sure i get the most power out of my engine whilst keeping it safe !!

Bucdodge

Emblem, by the way i have been advised to get a newman cam and solid lifters. Should i just buy these or do you reckon i should also by new valve springs and stem seals......?

Im gonna leave getting the head ported n polished, depending on how much it costs to what performance and advantages it provides.

Emblem

Yeah i know mate... best to get as much advice as possible aint it..


Well if you are going to take the head off and send it away, the best job is to get the whole thing refurbished is one go..

How would go about fitting the cam? Garage job?

Bucdodge

Yes mate, was gonna take it to an engine specialist and give them all the parts and ask to fit. But saying that, if i take it to a tuning garage that specializes in RST's they may fit it, time it and tune it for me!

RST-Steve

You should easily see 190 ish with the mods you have luke as already discussed above, especially with a little extra tweeking! I'd just get it set up first with the mods you have and take it from there, with the stage 2 turbo and intercooler etc you should see a good difference when the boost is increased. Mine feels like its holding back all the time at the mo and the nose dips rather than lifts when you put the foot down, yours feels soooooo much more responsive, that's more to have with your current set up imo

Interesting comment above about the Kent Cam tho, i never even thought about a different make and went for the complete kit with cam, lifters, springs, stem seals and lube etc. Being a complete kit, takes the hassle out of buying it all seperatly and not had any issues myself but everyone has different experiences, that's cool. That said, with the oil pressure issue, not exactly had its best yet!!

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

Having it set up by a professional will give you better value for money than any other part/mod

With mfi I would only trust the following company's from mine and friends experience
Oddkidd creations
Jamsport
Norris Motorsport. Nms
Motorsport developments. Msd

I wouldn't bother listening to half the stuff on here to be honest, every mfi car is different due to it being such a old system, some hit the limit way before 200bhp and I've had one running 231bhp at 23psi boost with

Turbo systems unlimited boost chip
Stage 3 hybrid/ Collins actuator
Piper 285t2 cam
Burton double valve springs
Bailey breather
Radtec front mount
Modded metering unit (nms are good for this)

Otherwise all standard with ap 4 paddle set up

If you want a cam just fit a decent cam and choose your own valve springs as the ones in the off the shelf kits are all crap

So if you want a cam I would fit
Newman phase 4 cam
Newman solid lifters
Newman double valve springs

And do it once, don't for get you will need the following, breather system upgrade, clutch upgrade, new ignition components and full service after running cam in

It's not just a matter of wacking a cam in and going for 200+bhp


I would save my money and just get it set upto it's best as at 180/190bhp you won't need a clutch or breather upgrade and won't need all the stuff to change cam

But saying that, a "genuine" 200bhp rs is great fun to drive

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

Holding back?

Either not set up right or your off the shelf Kent cam kit has the typical crap valve springs which have been discussed millions of times

Best with genuine ford springs or doubles from either burton or Newman

Oil pressure issue? What's the problem ? Light on when hot?
If so have you got a burton high pressure oil pump as these are worse than Kent cams and kill engines

RST-Steve

Yeah its not running great at the minute despite only having done 61,000 miles and just had a full service with everything replaced.

Basically, my series 2 is fine when driving and on idle when the fans not running, but when the fan kicks in and the revs drop slightly the oil light comes on. Blip the throttle or drive away and it goes off again!

I thought this might be the oil pick up pipe being blocked, a common issue, but even tho this has now been cleaned out, the issue is massively improved BUT it still happens. Standard oil pump, not a Burton one.

Have just bought engine flush, new oil and a new oil filter so will see if this makes a difference, also have a new oil pressure switch on the way too. My nice new blue coolant is also a shitty brown colour now too after a few miles, so hoping the flush cleans it out............ in the last 250 miles, I've just had a kent new cam, lifters, springs, tappets etc etc all fitted so hoping this isn't major!!!!! It's started tapping like before when I first got it too, stopped when all the above was fitted but now its back.

Didn't realise the springs in the kit were poor, this is my 5th RS Turbo but first cam kit I've bought, therefore not my specialist subject llol

Bucdodge

You know ive never thought about upgrading the clutch, would i be taking it upto a uprated sports or fast road clutch type? Also i know they do the mod where you have the mk5 quadrant and adjustable peddle too, would you do this as well?

When you say breather, do you mean for the oil? I currently have the baileys oil seperator tank which is not fitted, is this the item you would suggest i use to reduce oil temp and crankcase temp running bigger boost and bhp

http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-...bmost15-1.html

Ignition upgrades would be installing new iridium sparks and new Leads im guessing? Would you change anything bout the dizzy?

Full service, im guessing mainly the oil here :P can do that myself

Would (if set up to 200 ish bhp) this car be ok to drive without the clutch for the time being, seems as i dont drive like too much of a nutter, will the standard clutch take a beating before it goes? Also would the gears take that much pull on them , and the drive shafts for that matter, im guessing so as ive heard of people easily running 230-250

Looking forward to your hearing your replies !!

Bucdodge

150 views and no one has any other personal input they'd like to add
Come on guys ! Any little facts or lessons learned, any helpful tips when modding these beautiful cars, that would be

Spark plugs and ignition leads? Any preferences....?